DIY Micro Rc Dlg Glider




Introduction: DIY Micro Rc Dlg Glider

Hi and welcome to my instructable on how to make one of these cool little micro RC dlg gliders. If your reading this and don't know what a dlg glider is its basically a glider that is launched like a discus (discus launch glider). To launch them you hold onto a peg located at the wingtip or just the wingtip, in this case, spin around and launch the glider like that. They are used for competitions etc.

One problem with dlg gliders though is they tend to have a big wingspan which can be a bit of a pain for storing and transporting and they are also very expensive due to being handmade out of materials like fibreglass and carbon fibre.

So in this instructable I'm going solve both of those issues by helping you make your own micro dlg glider so you can see if the hobby is for you without spending hundreds or thousands of dollars/pounds.

what you will need:

Balsa Wood - 1/32" thick 3 x 36" x 2, 3mm thick 3 x 36" x 1

Carbon Fibre Rod - 3mm hollow x1

Small Piece Of Heat Shrink - x1

Super Glue - x1

Craft/Modeling Foam - 100 x 60 x 60mm x1

Servos/Receiver AIO Board - x1 (I used a flysky one)

Small Metal Rods - 0.1-0.2mm x 1

Tissue - 1 sheet x 1

Toy Drone Propeller - x 1

Plastic From Packaging - 20 x 20mm x 1

1s 100ish Mah Lipo - x1

Tape - x 1


Needle Nose Pliers


Sand Paper

A Marker

Hot Glue Gun

Rasor Blade/Craft Knife



Tape Measurer

Hacksaw Blade

Philips Screw Driver

Step 1: Making the Wing Pieces

The first step is to make the 4 wing pieces. The reason there is 4 is because the wing is made with 2 layers and it is made in two halves that will be glued together later on.

You need to measure out 300mm for each half to make a total wingspan of 600mm and then draw the shape of your wing onto the 1/32 thick balsa wood to cutout. You can design/draw on a computer or just paper your wing shape but I decided to just wing it : ). Once you have made one wing shape use that wing to trace onto the balsa wood and make 4 in total.

once they are all cut out you need to use two pins to hold all 4 of them aligned together and then you need to sand them all to be the same shape.

Then you need to cut 2 strips (about 1cm) out of the 3mm thick balsa piece leaving enough balsa for the tailpieces of the glider. (I would make the tailpieces before cutting these two strips).

Then glue the two strips together as shown In the photos to make a wing spar. This spar will help make the aerofoil shape. Then you need to glue and cut the spar into the wing 2.5cm from the leading edge/front edge of the wing and 3.5cm from the right/left edge of the wing.

Then finally after you have done that you can sandwich all the layers together and join the two wing halves with a slight tilt to add some dihedral for better flight stability.

Step 2: Making the Pod/Fuselage

For the fuselage you are going to want to cut a piece of foam in the rough dimensions you want the fuselage to be and then you want to draw out the shape you want it to be. Then you should start cutting and sanding it into shape and along the way you should keep checking that all the electronics are going to fit. Eventually, you will have a finished fuselage shape and you should then hollow it out for the electronics and battery and make a hole in it to glue the carbon fibre rod into with hot glue.

Step 3: Making the Tail Pieces

The tailpieces (elevator and rudder) should be made out of the 3mm balsa piece and they should be about 10-14cm and similarly to the wing they are drawn, cut and sanded into shape. But with these, you need to sand an aerofoil shape by sanding the edges at a slight angle.

Step 4: Reinforcements and Attaching Wings + Tails

A quick note for this step: I for some reason when making this glider decided to attach the tail pieces before cutting the flaps and adding the hinges to them so make sure yo do this before atteching/assembling them. (This is done in the next step).

For this step, you will need to use the left over bits from the wing spar to make mounts for the wing and elevator. In the photos, you can see how i have cut small pieces of the spar and then cut like a triangular shape out of them so it can be glued onto the carbon fibre rod more easily. But if they where just attached like this they would easily break off so you have to use some tissue paper to reinforce them by soaking the tissue in super glue and moulding it around the mounts to give them extra strength.

For the ruder tailpiece a cut needs to be made for the carbon rod to go into and then it is glued and reinforced with tissue paper and super glue as described above.

Step 5: Adding the Control Flaps

To be able to control the plane it needs to have flaps fitted to the tail pieces. They are then moved in flight via rods and servo horns/control joints to controll the plane.

First, cut the flaps out of the tail pieces and then add a control joint made out of a micro drone propellor but I have made them in the past out of small bits of wood etc. Then to reconnect the flaps to the tail pieces i used some thin plastic that you can get from things like the plastic containers that fruit and veg come in or even some thin water bottles. This creates a strong hinge and they are slotted and glued in to keep them together in flight.

Step 6: Final Assembly

Finally, all that's left is to fit the control rods and electrics. All that you have to do is cut and bend the ends of the rods into like a z shape with the needle-nose pliers as shown in the photos and slide them into the control and servo horns. Then to permanently fit the electrics you just need to put 2 blobs of hot glue, one on either side of the control board to hold it in place and run the battery lead down through the fuselage to connect the battery up to. The control rods are also run through some heat shrink tubing that thas been cut into small pieces and glued to the carbon fibre rod and this is t stop any flex in the rods on laucnch.

Now all you have to do is set the centre of gravity which should be about 1/3 of the way back from the front of the wing and go for a flight in some hot weather.

Thank you for reading and if you have nay questions just post a comment and I will reply ASAP.

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    2 years ago

    Do you have a link where we can find the

    Servos/Receiver AIO Board - x1 (I used a flysky one)



    Reply 2 years ago

    If you have Spektrum equipment or any other dxsm / dxm2 the 6410L clone boards from China will work with this design. With a little adaptation, possibly motorized with some attention to CG, weight and such, but DLG would be the way to go. Nice design, simple and inexpensive and a good entry point into mini gliders.


    Reply 2 years ago

    yeah i might make another one soon. i have a 3d printer and would love to make a custom printed pod for one but i need to get better at the 3d designing first. might make one with a folding prop at the front if i can figure out a way to make one of them or find one:).


    Reply 2 years ago

    Thanks for the reply. On the topic of designing a pod for 3D printing;
    I recently went back to using "tinker cad" after struggling with Fusion 360. Fusion 360 is difficult for me. (At age 78). works with a pallet of shape generators ( blocks, cylinders squares and such). I didn't realize that the designs could be more complex than those basic shapes. Tinker cad has some quirks but you can design 3D designs that actually print well. A "pod" could be a simple oval with a access hatch. You could do a solid egg shape for instance, copy it and reduce it down a few thousandths so it is slightly smaller than the original and Change it to a "hole" , set the "hole shape " inside the first shape and Group the two shapes together. The smaller shape will make a hollow egg once grouped.
    The " Grouping and alignment " tools really offer some help with getting your wall thicknesses lined up correctly.

    The concept of making a solid shape and copying it and reducing it's size and making it a hole can allow for making hollow forms or irregular shapes by carving away an area with another shape that is a hole. I can visualize making your pod and cutting away for a hatch using these methods. You could make a hollow tube inside the shape to mount your CF boom to the tail. A lot could be done easily. There are a lot of tutorials on the subject of tinker cad that would help get the concepts down. I just designed some servo "sleeves" that I use with 9gram metal gear servos that are "glue in" for foam planes. The servo slips into the "sleeve" and screws hold it to the sleeve. No more "glued in servos". They are easily removable and add very little weight. The "sleeve". Is like a bezel that fits into a cutout in a fuselage or wing.

    Forgive me, if you are already beyond these simple concepts. I like your design for your glider. Just out of curiosity, have you experimented with any polyhedral wing experiments? I have been a UMX Radial glider fan for several years, the wing design on that little glider is really refined. My thoughts have been to design a pod glider similar to yours, using a UMX card from my radian to control it . I could use it as a DLG or install the Radian brushed motor on the front for those days hunting thermals. The Radian prop setup (folding) is very efficient and the gum stick one cell battery setup is really light.

    Thanks for sharing your concepts, from simple ideas, great designs can be born! Keep it up.

    I have some flying buddies that are into flying "whippets" so one of these simple balsa gliders will be a thrill out on the hill with the high tech DLGs.

    my printer is a Creality CR-10, I have modified it to a direct drive extruder using the stock extruder and repositioning it for direct drive (no more pesky Bowden tube), a micro Swiss hot end and a modified "fang" cooling duct. I have been printing single wall gliders for a while using files from It took a lot of fiddling around using Cura as a slicer but the results were well worth it.
    thanks again, John bobeda


    Reply 2 years ago

    Sorry about that it’s actually a wltoys board. If you search on banggood wltoys f949 it should come up it’s about the 6th one down.


    2 years ago

    Very nicely done! : )


    Reply 2 years ago

    Thank you :).