Introduction: DIY Portable Bluetooth Dayton Audio BoomBox 150W-120W (ND105, ND65, TPA3116D2, CSR8630)

About: I mainly take on projects I have seen here and put my own twist on them. I also like to take garbage or thrown out electronics and make something nice from them. I have no certain area of Expertise, I am new a…

Being a Child from the '80s and an Adult of the 2000s, I have always wanted my own loud portable BoomBox. Then recently I started building a lot of the smaller Bluetooth Speakers and rebuild of older iPod Docking systems. Liking the sound of the ND65-04, I decided to create one with a little larger ND105-8. Adding in all the features of the smaller BT Speakers with the sound of a much larger system in a BoomBox Format. This build is actually a pretty simple build as all the smaller components are already encased in the TPA3116D2 with CSR8630 and Bluetooth 4.0. All I really had to do is add some crossover for the Mids and tweeter, build a box and add a strong battery. But First before giving you guys the main components, This build wouldn't have been possible without the partnership of JLCPCB. One of the cheapest Largest Manufacturers in China! Get your 2$ PCB at JLCPCB here-

Sound Check Video at the end of this Instructable. Unfortunately, I do not have the equipment yet to test and post, I had to use my wife's android. The system sounds great and has a bass that hits you solidly in the chest. Music By Fred & Sound- With permission from Fred & Sound, music is copyright Protected. "Bass Protector". Check out the links in the video description and his channel. Contact him if you would like to use his music.


Dayton Audio ND105-8 4" Aluminum Cone Midbass Neo Driver 8 Ohm-

Dayton Audio ND105-PR 4" Aluminum Cone Passive Radiator-

Dayton Audio ND65-4 2-1/2" Aluminum Cone Full-Range Neo Driver 4 Ohm-

HIFI 2.1 digital amplifier Bluetooth 4.0 2X50 W + 100 W TPA3116 bass adjusted CSR8630 without power supply silver (Exact one I use)-

TW030WA05 30mm Textile Dome Tweeter with Rear Chamber 4 Ohm-

Parts Express SPST Automotive Round Rocker Switch with Blue LED 12V-

Parts Express Speaker Gasketing Tape 1/8" x 1/2" x 50 ft. Roll-

21V 2A Smart Charger for 5S Lithium/Li-ion 18650 Battery-

ISDT BattGo BG-8S-

I also used the passive speakers from 2 x HardonKarmon Onyx 3, even though each came with 2, I wanted to use the black passives for this build on the bottom

All other parts and pieces are just items I carry in my little stock section. Please drop me a line if you have trouble finding

Step 1: Stage All Your Parts and Pieces, Even If You Don't End Up Using

I like to stage all parts and pieces I am going to use, just so I get a rough idea of the build. This lets me know who I might throw it together. main components are listed above, please contact me if you have an issue finding anything else. Most of these items were purchased a couple of years ago, so the links I would have used. Speakers I got from Parts Express. Also with the TPA3116D2 like the one I purchased. I have noticed a lot of fakes being sold online. The seller that sold me the one I had, he had actually had to send me 3 before getting the one I paid for. Make sure to open up the case to make sure its the one you paid for. I tried finding a link with the exact model I got, see link above.

Step 2: Use the Grills I Plan on Adding Later, I Was Able to Get My Overall Width and Cut Wood Accordingly

Going to my Local Hardware Store I found Hobbywood, That measured around 7 1/4 inches for the face and back panel and I used 5 1/2 for the sides, top, bottom, and dividers. I knew with the pressure needed for the subs, I would need a separate area for the mids and highs and a separate area for the subs. Finding an online tool, I figured out the size needed for the subs to get my overall area for the passives and sub-mix. Once I got all that info I used the grills to figure out the placement of the sides, and dividers. Luckily for me, it all worked perfectly. The overall width ended up being 24" and because I used 1/2 thick wood for the top, bottom and dividers, the dividers and sides came out to 6 1/4. All Pretty easy math. So using my chop saw, I cut all the parts needed for the build.

Step 3: With Pin Nail, and Wood Glue, I Built the Inside Frame

Using Pin nails I would remove later(Don't nail in completely), I built the inside Frame. I made sure to space everything accordingly. I also with a pencil marked on the inside of the face and back where the spaces were for later measuring of components. Because My normal workbench is made for smaller projects, a lot of the stuff shown here and on the video is after I had completed the step. As you can see in this step, as long as you cut everything correctly, you should start to see a boombox forming.

Step 4: Measure Out With Calipers and Square Where to Place and Then Cut Out With a Hole Saw Bit

Making sure to place each component evenly in each spacing. I took a square and measured all spots I would add a driver. Then with the Calipers, I measured each driver for the hole size. When you don't have a drill press to cut out the holes, I have found it easier to predrill all holes before using a hole saw bit. I start with a smaller bit and then work my way up to the same size hole used with the hole saw bit. This helps keep everything in place when using bigger hole saws for bigger drivers. Once I was done with the predrill, I drilled each spot based on the measurement I placed on markings for the drivers, using a hole saw bit.

Step 5: Using My DIY Router Table, I Rounded Over All Cutouts and Edges

Like in my Past Build I like to use a 1/8 round-over bit to clean up the edges and give a nice profile. The drivers will cover this up later on, but it was just something I felt I needed to do. DIY Dremel router table I made (Video and Instructable coming soon). I cleaned up all edges with a 120 grit drum sander(Dremel). Then I put a 1/8 round-over bit in the router table's Dremel and put a small profile on all edges and holes.

Step 6: Double Check the Grill Placement and Make Sure Drivers Fit

This is still only of my dilemmas, should I add grills or not. Please leave a comment in the description of you think I should? Also, I like to check periodically if everything fits.

Step 7: Using My DIY Lunch Box Battery Tab Welder I Built a 5S4P 7900mah Battery

Here is put together a battery that should give me at max 20 plus amps and 7900mah of Capacity. I used my DIY LunchBox welder(video here)-

The build for that simple welder using 2 x UPS Batteries here-

Should work perfectly at 21V on the TPA3116D2

Step 8: I Placed All Components for the Amp Inside to See Where They Fit and Marked the Cutouts & Predrilled Driver Placement

Making sure everything is going to fit, I placed the battery, LED voltmeter, power switch and amp to make sure I knew where it was going to be placed. Then marked the cutouts and Holes needed for predrilling and cutout. I also made it a point to predrill the speakers. All needed before final sanding and staining.

Step 9: Create a Pictorial/Schematic to Follow When Putting the Electronic Inside the Box

This is a pretty simple schematic to follow the only part i decided against was the boost converter.

Step 10: Build a DIY Handle From 2 Sizes of Copper Tubing

Using 7/8 and 3/8 copper tubbing, I made a DIY handle for the BoomBox. All I did was cut them to size. Then used a round over half-moon file to create the profile where the handle sits. For the sides, I had some extra piece of plexiglass I had cut out with a hole saw bit, that fit perfectly in the sides. I used 1/4" nuts and bolts cut to fit to keep it together. Using Superglue to hold the plexiglass sides in and lock washers on the nuts. To make it look shiny, I sanded with 600 grit sandpaper.

Step 11: Add Wood Putty and Wet Paper Towels for Final Sanding

After I glued the face on and it dried and Before doing any staining or finish work on the wood Box, I added wood putty where needed and on any dents or dings, I add a small went piece of paper towel. Once the heat hits the towel, the wood will swell and sometimes the dig will pop out and any scratch can be sanded out. Wood filler just helps with any of the cracks or splintered out wood. I also decided at this time to use silicone on the inside of the box to keep everything sealed. It's really important with passive speakers to get a good seal. It's also important to make sure the middle chambers are sealed from each other.

Step 12: Stain With a Minwax Ipswich Pine 221

After final sanding with 220-400 Grit paper, and I clean off any dust. I removed the handle. I added a coat of Stain. I waited 24 hours and added another coat. After all, had dried, I use a clear coat. I waited for each coat to dry and added another coat. I put around 4 coats. I also added the Handle back before clear. The clear coat protects the copper handle from the air. I also added 4 strong legs I pulled from an Old computer speaker(woofer box). Another look with the Grills!!! What do you guys think????

Step 13: Pick My Crossovers

I had all kinds of cross overs I had saved for the past few years and I wasn't certain what I was going to use. I ended up going with the pair I had special made just for this with a cross over point around 35,000hertz. The friend that made these for me, made them to go with the Mids and highs. I personally have no experience with crossovers and I just contact him when I need them made. He made sure to use Dayton Audio caps, resistors and other components to make. I didn't need a cross over from the subs, only because it is built into the amp. I noticed on a few professional builds made by Dayton Audio they didn't use them when using the same type of amp.

Step 14: Add Components to the Back Panel and Shelf to Hold Amp in Place

I added the LED, Power switch and DC jack to the back panel. Then I glued a shelf to the back that will hold the TDA3116D2 in place. I also took the time to add the HarmonKardon Passive speaker to the bottom. I added silicon and use some old MOT to hold in place till they dried.

Step 15: Add Drivers(speakers) and Cross Overs

Because of the way the tweeters sat in the hole I originally drilled. I decided to set them back by adding a small piece of wood to place over the original hole. I also drill holes between the sections to make sure all wiring ended up where the amp would be(first section). I made sure to use thick graded speaker wire. After adding all the drivers and running the speaker wire, I used silicon around the speakers and added silicon to each hole I drilled with the speaker wire. I also drilled and bolted each cross over down, so it wouldn't shake loose later adding silicon also. I had to make sure one of the chambers is clear to hold the battery.

Step 16: Soldering the Power Connector for the Amp and Battery

Making sure I used 12 gauge. I soldered an XT60 female connector on one side and a DC jack with a car fuse on the other. The amp shouldn't need more than 10 amps, so I decided to use a 10 amp fuse. Then again I drilled a hole through each section to run it to the other end, using silicone after. This should allow me to open up the back at any time, only needing to disconnect the xt60 and speaker connection on the amp.

Step 17: Finish Up the Wiring and Adding the Amp and Battery, Screwing on the Back Panel

Unfortunately, I had some corrupt footage, so I'll have to explain a little more. On the battery side, I connect the power switch, DC jack, and Voltmeter, where I could connect one side to the battery and the other side to the female XT60 running to the amp. Then like my past builds that use series batteries. I added a Ballance jack that I can connect to the battery to keep it balanced if needed. Then I added a piece of wood to hold the battery in an upright position. I then added the amp with silicone and hot glue. I had to make sure all components had silicon to keep them air tight. Using Speaker Gasketing Tape 1/8" x 1/2" I added it all around the backside on each divider and around the back before screwing everything in place. I also connected all parts and the speaker to the back of the amp. Ran a few tests and only had one small air leak on the passive speaker left side. I added a little silicone and the air leak stopped. The battery I held in using hot glue and zip ties.

Step 18: Top Up the Battery and Make Sure Everything Is Working Correctly Before the Test

After I finished up the build. I topped up the battery with a charger purchased from eBay. That charge is made for 5S batteries and charges at 21Volts 2.5amps. I also used a cell meter 7 to make sure it was balanced and later swapped it for a ISDT BatteryGO BG-8S . Next is the Test!!

Step 19: Turn the Power on and Test!! Enjoy!!!

This was actually pretty easy to build circuit wise. The hardest part was figuring out the box size and making sure all calculation was correct. I get tons of playtime on one charge and this thing sounds amazing. So far I haven't even turned it past half on the volume and 1/2 on the bass. Very Loud and very bassy!!! I can feel the bass deep in my chest and the stereo quality is crazy awesome. Dayton Audio surely knows how to make them. This is the end of my Instructable, please feel free to ask me anything about the build. Here is the test video I did. Unfortatntly I don't own the proper recording equipment, I had to use my wives android. The video does not do the speaker justice. And thanks again JLCPCB for making this video and Instructable possible-$2 For 5 PCBs & Cheap SMT(2 Coupons):

Don't forget to let me know what you think about the grills....So far all that's commented has said it definitely will be safer with the grills. Please enjoy and Look for my next Bluetooth speaker or DIY Project on my channel. And if you visit my channel, please like subscribe and share!! Thanks for reading my Instructable!!!