The target was to construct a halloween costume inspired by Lucius Malfoy from the Harry Potter books, dressed up as a Death Eater (follower of bad guy Voldermort). Here's an action shot of me in the full costume,

Step 1: Making a Mould

Alginate - I used dental alginate
Plaster bandages
Plaster of Paris
2 plastic container
water
dummy head or take life cast- would do one research on this

Start with a dummy head

Mix up the Alginate

Stir alginate with water in a 1-to-1 ratio,

Make sure you use cold water as this dries insanely quick when you use warm/hot water.

Place on dummy head remember to do this really quickly as it sets really quickly

Layer several layers of plaster bandages over it before removing to provide support as the alginate is pretty delicate.

Should remove fairly easily with use of any Vaseline

Mix plaster of Paris according to package directions, and pour into mold to fill. Let set for several hours to dry

Remove from mould

We Used sandpaper and Dremel to clean mould up

Step 2: Clay Sculpting

Modeling Clay we used Laguna Clay
Plastic Wrap
Sculpting Tools
Clay Cutter

First, for easy release of the clay from your plaster cast, lay some plastic wrap over the mold.

Take your clay and cut out some large pieces

Build up a layer 1/2 inch of clay all around the head first

Add the clay to your plaster cast to accentuate all the prominent features of the masks from the movies the internet is your friend here

Once completed leave to dry for a little bit until the surface looks leathery you can use hair dryer to speed this up

Step 3: Make Thermoplastic Mask

Worbla Thermoplastic
Heat gun
sandpaper / dremel

Worbla is a non-toxic thermoplastic sheet material made partially from wood pulp. Worbla softens at 194 degrees fahrenheit (90 degrees celsius) which means you can mold it with your bare hands but I would recommend wearing heat resistant gloves

Create your base layer of Worbla by heating the plastic and adding it to the clay if using several pieces make sure that you overlap them slightly, and press them down as you go.

Take care to push the Worbla down into all the curves and crevices that might be on your mask especially around the eyes

Do this until you have a few layers’ of pieces on your mold.

Don’t worry if your Worbla go over the edge of the clay mask these can be trimmed later

Make sure you are covering the entire mask, and use at least 2 or 3 layers

If using the overlapping method you will need to smooth out any seams you might have by y apply heat directly to the mask.

Avoid touching the Worbla with your bare hands as it can and will burn you as it gets that hot, instead use your clay tools to help you get the Worbla to conform to the mask properly. The Worbla will need to be very hot and you will need to add quite a bit of pressure to get rid of the seams completely, we decided to use sandpaper and Dremel to clean everything up be prepared that the sanding process can take some time as you want it really smooth before painting

Cut out eyes, and breathing holes

Re sand these for comfort

Step 4: Painting the Mask

Primer i used rustoleum grey
Spray paint i used rustoleum black
Arcylic paint - we used liquitex
Paint brushes - various sizes
Clear varnish i used rustoleum

The last step is to prime and paint your mask.

Spray primer layer to see how it take the paint

You may need to go back and re sand if bumps are still visible

apply primer until happy with results

spray mask with a foundation colour add several layers but remember to add a little at a time to avoid pooling and dripping

Once dry use acrylic paints to paint details as required

Once you feel the mask is finished let dry and then apply a clear varnish to make mask shiny

Step 5: Adjusting Your Mask

elastic / or bra strap to hold mask on
Old felt or foam for comfort
Hot glue gun

Add elastic / bra strap to to mask, using a bra strap will allow for the position to be adjusted easier on the fly, position it around eye level for the best support

Once you wear the mask you will probably want to make it more comfortable by adding foam or felt to the inside

Once this is down your all done, enjoy

Step 6: Make the Vest / Leather Jerkin

sewing machine
vinyl 1.5 meters
lining about the same
leather
rivets
butterick pattern

We modded the vest from BUTTERICK PATTERNS B3072 Historical Costume as the base for the vest but we decided to changed the cut of the vest so that it didn't have the v at the bottom and removed the pockets.

I selected a vinyl material that would give the appearance of a leather Jerkin and used a fleece material as the lining for warmth

for the fasterners i decided not to add buttons but to do real leather straps this required a trip to tandy leather who were great and talked me through how to do it. I came back armed with all the necessary supplies

I came up with a design on fusion 360 and used these as a template for cutting out the leather, next came the hole punching add riveting.

Once i had 4 completed the next step is deciding where to position them, i divided the vest front up into 4 section and position the buckle strap on one side and the belt strap on the other.

Step 7: The Cloak

sewing machine
Pattern from Fleece Fun
Printer
Tape 3.75 yards of Fleece, or Jersey knit for exterior
0.5 yards of fleece or jersey knit for hood lining

We used a Long Hooded Cloak Sewing Pattern from Fleece Fun’s www.fleecefun.com visit the site and follow Angels’ instructions It easy to sew and her instructions are clean and concise www.fleecefun.com We decided to use buttons and a thin strip of leather as a fastener rather then cording Sew buttons to cloak at equal distances on either side Cut strip of leather to extend about 1 cm at each end Cut into the leather using a craft knife, make length of cuts approximately the length of the buttons Reinforce cuts by sewing around them with a sewing machine Fasten cloak