Dremel 3000 Homogenizer for Ejuice.

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Introduction: Dremel 3000 Homogenizer for Ejuice.

About: general bloke type of tinkering

This is a remix of the GC homogenizer on the Vapingunderground forum which I thought could be simplified and improved.

The Dremel nose cone adapter is a remix from a Dremel nut on Thingiverse.

For a start I did away with the serrated coupler and instead made the end of a M3 threaded rod square to fit the flex shaft nut that is part of the Dremel 3000 kit(3000 + flex shaft).

Then I used flanged bearings and removed the shield of the bottom bearing so that it could be lubed with ejuice during use and lastly, instead of a shear head, I went with a tesla turbine style head.

I'd theorize that much of the shear action happens at the boundary layer in the discs.

Supplies

  • Dremel 3000 + flex shaft adapter nut.
  • Nose cone adapter for the dremel to take a 12mm SS tube. (printed part, file attached)
  • 2 x F623ZZ, flanged 10mm OD x 3mm ID.
  • M3 SS threaded rod.
  • SS 304 tube, 12mm OD x 10mm ID.
  • SS 304 tube, 25mm OD x 22.5mm ID.
  • Delrin rod for the lower adapter and Tesla turbine rotor head.

Step 1: Common Method of Mixing Ejuice

The common method of mixing ejuice is to use a teflon coated stir bar on a magnetic stir plate.

No amount of use of the stir plate will get water and olive oil to mix and this is sort of my litmus test for the homogenizer.

However, 2 min of use with the homogenizer produces a milky liquid that could possibly be used as a coolant on the drill press, lathe or mill.

While there is some visible layering, even the liquid at the bottom of the beaker had a slippery feel and smelt strongly of olive oil.

Step 2: Parts.

The flex nut ID is 2.9mm and the M3 rod is 2.85mm in dia.

To cut flats on the M3 rod, I first had to braze on 3 nuts at the end otherwise it would have turned freely in the flex shaft nut.

I first 3D printed the lower 22 to 12mm tube adapter, but my printers results always need some drilling to size and that's where the error occurs resulting in the rotor head binding against the tube wall.

The only way to get acceptable results is to use a lathe to get things concentric, possibly a drill press too, if the part is first drilled and then chucked in an arbor.

The top breather hole turned out to be unnecessary, it adds a lot of air to the mix and when blocked ejuice is sucked through the bottom bearing via the lower hole. The delrin rotor has a ring of 3.2mm inlet holes drilled right through so that in use it sucks juice both from the bottom and top.

The bearings were a loose fit so I used a brake pipe flaring kit to narrow the tubing where the bearings seated at each end.

I found it useful to first print the nose cone with the threaded part on the build plate, that way you can cancel the print after 7mm build height and check the threads for fit on the dremel and resize as necessary, saves waiting 40min and saves plastic.

I used 0.2mm layer height 60% infill, no supports necessary when printed with the threaded portion up.

Step 3: Some Action

I raised the unit to see how it operated, ejuice doesn't have as much spraying action due to increased viscosity.

P.S. Remember to clean out the bottom bearing with iso or spirits, vaping machine oil will leave an unpleasant after taste.

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    4 Comments

    0
    gkhnbzkr
    gkhnbzkr

    6 months ago on Step 2

    Awesome! Do you sell it also ? :)

    0
    petercd
    petercd

    Reply 5 months ago

    Nope.
    Im more about show and tell than Etsy.

    0
    bnetplayer69
    bnetplayer69

    Reply 5 months ago

    Is there info on the blending side of things somewhere? I checked out the threads i could find for the GC. What does the delrin part look like? Thanks!

    0
    petercd
    petercd

    Reply 5 months ago

    All the parts are in step2.
    Blending info? You just submerge the wand into the juice.