Foam Battle Axe Prop

Introduction: Foam Battle Axe Prop

About: Prop maker from the PNW.

SAFTEY GEAR: this should go without saying but wear protective eyewear, a respirator and hearing protection. Your future self will thank you.

TOOLS:

hobby knife

snap knife

sharpie

pen

ruler

chop stick/tongue depressor

rotary tool

foam brush

heat gun

chip brush

MATERIALS:

2ft of 3/4" CPVC pipe (sold by the foot at most hardware stores)

X2 3/4" CPVC caps (sold at most hardware stores.

anti-fatigue mat (at least 12" x 24" piece)

hot glue

hot glue gun

contact cement

black spray paint

silver spray paint

mod podge

80 grit sanding sponge or sand paper

acrylic brown paint

Step 1: Getting Started

Print and cut out provided template. Trace on to floor mat foam twice remembering to flip to create two opposite halves. Using snap knife, cut out the two halves. Next, use the template to mark glue guides on inside of foam (textured side). Apply contact cement to foam and allow to dry for around ten minutes, will look glossy to start then duller. Carefully attach both halves starting from the back. Once together, place a flat and heavy object on top of foam while it dries for about 20 more minutes.

Step 2: Axehead and Paint Prep

Once the contact cement is dry, seal the foam using a heat gun (extreme heat will shrink the foam pores making it easier to paint). Next test fit your CPVC pipe in the gap left in the foam.

*The glue didn't hold for mine so I used scrap foam to help secure/plug the hole for a snug fit. Cut small strips of foam to fill the gap then tack in place using a hot glue gun. The back of the axe head may have bulged a bit which can be corrected cutting it flat once again using the snap knife. These steps may not be necessary.

With the snap knife, trim both sides of the axe blade edge to a 45 degree point. Use your rotary tool to smooth out any rough spots on the axe head.

Brush a generous layer of Mod Podge on both sides one at a time using a foam brush. While this dries, use your sanding sponge to know down the raised letters on the CPVC caps as well as rough up the surface of the CPVC pipe segment along the vertical axis to mimic wood grain.

Step 3: Painting & Assembly

Spray paint all of the pieces black, I used a stain but a flat a gloss would also work depending on what kind of look you're going for I.e. new or rustic.

Spray paints vary for application temperature but I would recommend at least 65-70 degrees Fahrenheit or higher. Dry heat is great but humidity can trap moisture in the paint causing it to take longer to dry and have an undesirable finish.

Follow up the black paint with chrome or what metallic silver suits your needs but only on the axe head and CPVC caps. While those dry, use your chip brush to apply the brown acrylic brown paint to the CPVC pipe. Paint along the same vertical direction to achieve a wood like texture.

Once all the paint is dry, place the CPVC pipe through the axe head, keep the end from protruding from the top of the axe head while you apply a bit of hot glue on the pipe just below the axe head and quick pull it down to secure into place. Finally, place CPVC caps on the top and bottom of the pipe, friction should be enough to keep these in place. You are now finished!

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