Introduction: How to Make a PEKKA for Under 7 Elixir

In this prop design challenge, our team was tasked to design a prop from a known movie, video game or TV series that could be used in a play. We chose to construct a miniature P.E.K.K.A from the popular mobile game called Clash Royale. The P.E.K.K.A replica lights up and can also move its arm up and down through the use of a motor in order to initiate an attack. The P.E.K.K.A can be used in any real life recreation of clash royale games and is perfect for anyone who is a die hard fan of the great video game!!

Step 1: Materials

-Cardboard(alot of it)

-Xacto Knife

-Self healing mat

-Hot Glue Gun


-2 Red LED Lightbulbs




-Soldering equipment

Step 2: Cut Out the Pieces for the Basic Skeleton

Begin by determining how tall you want your PEKKA statue to be. The statue in the images is around a foot tall. Based on your size and proportions, cut out the necessary lengths for the torso of the PEKKA. Make a 3D sculpture of the trapezoid shown in the images. Next make a 3-D V shape for the legs of the PEKKA. This will also serve as your base/support so make it strong and sturdy.

Step 3: Arms

The arms for the PEKKA are a combination of three sections of folded up cardboard. The first section is a sloped curved. Follow the shape of the piece in the top right and make sure the bottom is the edge of a piece of cardboard for the straightness. Make three folding lines perpendicular to the straight edge and fold it up for a box like shape. Make a box to resmble the fist of the PEKKA. Then take two pieces of cardboard and connect the upper arm and the fist together. Use a hot glue gun for best results. Repeat the same process for the other side.

Step 4: Armor

The armor for the PEKKA consists of two chest plates and plate to cover the core and upper thigh. Cut out two pieces in the shape of a square with a slope curve connecting two sides. Do the same but opposite sides for the other side of the chest.

Step 5: Head

Constuct a simple cardboard box that will fit the proportions of the PEKKA's shoulder area. Cut out two cardboard triangles that are the same as the side of the bix you just made. This will provide the slant of the PEKKA's head. Next, cut out a rectangle that is a little bit ligger that the lenght of the box. This will host the wires for the PEKKA's eyes and serve as the PEKKA's scalp. Do not hot glue any of the pieces yet because we still need to put in the wires.

Step 6: Paint & Design

The PEKKA's natural color scheme is a main black color with purple gradients as its horns. Feel free to choose whatever color you want to design your PEKKA with.

Step 7: Electronics

For this part of the project we used a relatively simple electronic setup. For one, our challenge included connecting a mtor as well as 2 LED's. We connected two batteries in series, the motor in parallel, and the two LED's in series. In retrospect it might have been better to connect the LED's in parallel. We also included a switch in or circuit.

We encountered a few problems with our circutry. For example, we quickly found that the original motor we used was not nearly strong enough to move the arm. We switched to a slightly more powrful motor which although did not completely solved the problem, worked signifigantly better than the original.

Step 8: Electronics Continued

After completing the circuit, soder all the connections together. This will ensure that the all the connections are secured. Insert the circuit into the chest of the PEKKA. Tape the two eye LEDs to the roof of the scalp piece that we previously cut out. Cut a hole in the PEKKA's back to fit a switch and carefully insert the switch. Make sure the user is able to acess the switch with relative ease.

Step 9: Putting It All Together

Once the electronic circuit and all the major parts of the PEKKA are completed, the next step is to put it all together to create the final project. Glue the legs and the right arm to the torso. At this point a hole should be made in the center of the torso's left side for the motor. A similar hole should be made on the side of the left arm, and a cog shoulf be attached infront of it. This will allow the motor to be attched to the arm and though the use of the cog, the arm will be stabalized with the motor. The top of the torso should also be left open so that the led's from the circuit can be attached to the top of the head and function as light up eyes.

Step 10: Reflection

1. We take special pride in the paint design of the PEKKA's armor. It was custom designed by one of our team members to fully embrace the PEKKA's warlike nature.

2. We would change our circuit to add some more lights and maybe 3-D print the head.

3. We would 3-D print the head and the horns out of translucent plastic to add some more details.