Introduction: How to Build a Printrbot Simple !

Excited to get your Printrbot Simple assembled and printing?
Let us take you through the steps!

Firstly these are the tools you will need for the build:

Screw driver
2.5mm hex wrench
1.5mm hex wrench
Electric screw driver
Rubber mallet
Super glue
Threadlock blue glue
Permanent marker pen
Sand paper

Here is our video tutorial version. It includes images and some video parts for the more important and tricky steps of assembly!
(Steps 6, 13, 19, 41 and 42 can be followed by video example)

Step 1:

- Lay all parts on a table and hardware on a plate so as to not lose parts
- Check off on the bill of materials

Step 2:

8 – zip ties
4 – LM8UU bearings
Laser cut part 7

- Zip tie bearings on to base plate as demonstrated
- Make sure to put the nub of the zip ties as shown
- Place smooth rods through the bearings to ensure alignment as zip ties are tightened
- Use pliers to tighten zip-ties as much as possible but be aware of the fragility of the wood (if you pull too hard it WILL snap)

Step 3:

2 – M2 10mm screws
1 – end stop (LONG WIRING)

- Screw long wiring end stop onto base plate and pull wiring through rectangular hole
- Make sure the open part of the end stop faces towards the longer side of the base

Step 4:

2 – M2 10mm screws
1 – end stop (SHORT WIRING)
Laser cut parts 18 and 20

- Thread end stop wiring end through laser cut piece 20
- Make sure open part of the end stop faces towards the longer limb of the piece
- Bring wooden piece 18 though the bottom of piece 20 (in some cases might need a good press to snap into place)
- Screw M2 10mm screws into end stop through to piece 18

Step 5:

2 – M3 10mm screws
2 – M3 16mm screws
1 – Small Kysan motor
Laser cut part 8

- Bring kysan motor shaft through bottom of circular hole of piece 8
- Use M3 10mm screws to secure the two ends closest to the rectangular hole (motor wiring should be facing and come up through small rectangular hole)
- Screw end stop and piece 20 to base using the M3 16mm screws (open end of the end stop should be facing the small circular hole on the base)
- Use tape to label the wiring of the motor “Z” as shown in image

Step 6:

2 – black rubber tubing
2 – sandpaper pulley rolls
2 – kysan motors
Super glue

- Widen the hole of the sandpaper pulley using small pliers or scissors and test to see if it can easily slip on to the rubber tube
- Dab some glue on to half of each rubber tube and push sandpaper pulley until flush
- Once they are both dry push each on to small kysan motor, on one: push until flush with the tip of the motor shaft; on the other: leave rubber tubing 3mm off the motor shaft
- Tightly zip-tie the bottom of each rubber tubing so as to secure it to motor shafts and prevent slippage
- With a marker label flush rubber tubing motor “X” and the other motor “Y”

Step 7:

4 – M3 10mm screws
2 – M3 16mm screws
2 – M3 hex nuts
Laser cut parts 8 and 9
Small kysan motor “X”

- Using the 4 M3 10mm screws, screw the X-axis motor onto wooden part 9 (the motor wiring must be facing sideways: either side is fine)
- Screw parts 8 and 9 together using the M3 16mm screws and hex nuts
- Pull X-axis motor wiring through small rectangular hole in piece 8 and using tape label wiring “x”

Step 8:

4 – M3 16mm screws
4 – M3 hex nuts
X-axis motor assembly
Z-axis motor assembly

- Mount X and Z axis motor assemblies together using M3 16mm and M3 hex nuts
- Mount assembly to base part 7 assembled in step 2
- Pull end-stop wiring out through the bottom into the rectangular hole between the two motors, and out the end next to Z-axis motor as depicted

Step 9:

1 – zip tie
Power adapter
Laser cut part 5

- Unscrew nut on the power adapter a bit to leave space for zip-tie
- Attach power adapter onto plate 5 with zip tie between nut and adapter
- Make sure zip-tie goes down (on right side of power adapter)

Step 10:

5 – M3 16mm screws
5 – M3 hex nuts
Laser cut part 5

- Attach piece 5 onto the left side of assembled parts using M3 screws and nuts
- Make sure power adapter wiring comes up through small slot in piece 8
- If the wooden nobs don’t align at first, it helps to untighten the other screws and use a screwdriver to push them this way or that to make pieces fit together

Step 11:

5 – M3x16mm screws
5 – M3 hex nuts
Laser cut part 6

- Attach the right side piece to assembled parts using M3 screws and nuts
- If the wooden nobs don’t align perfectly loosen screws on the other parts to make fit and then retighten everything once assembled

Step 12:

4 – zip ties
Electronics board

- Attach the electronics board to wooden piece 5 using the zip ties
- Connect the power adapter to “PWR” slot as shown in image
- Connect X and Z end-stops to corresponding “X STOP” and “Z STOP” slots

Step 13:

2 – 25.5cm smooth rods
2 – M3 10mm screws

- Install the 25cm smooth rods into the slots of wooden part 8
- Use (preferably) a rubber mallet or a hammer to get them through both wooden plates until flush with the bottom plate
- Be sure to provide support underneath so as to not blow out lower wooden plate
- Screw in the M3 10mm screws to secure rods into place

Step 14:

4 – M3 hex nuts
1 – M3 10mm screw
Laser cut part 2
Super glue

- Press the 4 hex nuts into the hexagonal slots in wooden part 2
- Use a bit of super glue to secure them into their holes
- Screw the M3 10mm screw into the wooden part, make sure to leave some length and not screw in all the way

Step 15:

4 – Zip ties
2 – 16.5cm smooth rods

- Insert smooth rods into LM8UU bearings
- Attach part 2 to rest of assembly by zip-tying it onto smooth rods
- Make sure the nubs of the zip-ties are on the outer side of the print platform
- Make sure the M3 10mm screw is on the left side of the print platform

Step 16:

1 – M3 10mm screw
1 – M3 hex nut
Fishing line

- Create a loop at the end of the fishing line and twist the line around itself twice. Then bring the line back in through the loop.
- Tie the line to the M3 10mm screw by putting it through the loop and pulling either end of the line - if you feel your knot is not completely solid, apply some glue to the knot to ensure it doesn’t untie.
- Screw the M3 10mm in to the right side of wooden part 2, from the bottom up

Step 17:

1 – M3 16mm screw
1 – M3 hex nut
Laser cut parts 21 and 22

- Press the M3 hex nut into the hexagonal slot in wooden part 22 using pliers
- Screw in M3 16mm bolt until flush with hex nut
- Slide wooden part 21 onto larger wooden part 22
- This is the X-axis fishing line tensioning assembly

Step 18:

1 – Ruler
Marker pen

- Measure 23cm / 9in. from where the fishing line is tied onto the print platform and mark the point on the string with a marker pen
- Tie string to the X-axis fishing line tensioning assembly at this marked point

Step 19:

1 – Zip-tie
Super glue

- Once one side has been tied to the print platform and the other to the tensioning assembly: tightly wrap the fishing line two full wraps around the sandpaper pulley (IMPORTANT: the line should not cross/overlap itself)
- Make sure to start wrapping from the right side (where string is attached to platform), then under the sandpaper pulley
- If you have measured the 23cm / 9in. correctly you should have to pull tight on the fishing line to slot the tensioning assembly to the other side of the platform
- Zip-tie tensioning assembly to platform using the slots in the side of wooden part 2

Step 20:

- Screw in the M3 16mm bolt through tensioning assembly to tighten the line (should be very tight, and no slack in the line)
- Glue knots on either side of line to secure them

Step 21:

4 – M3 20mm screws
4 – smaller bed springs
Laser cut part 1

- Place the 4 bed springs onto the 4 holes on each corner of the wooden part 2
- Align wooden part 1 on top of the bed springs and screw the M3 20mm screws through until flush with the bottom of the hex nuts underneath

Step 22:

8 – LM8UU bearings
16 – Zip-ties
Laser cut part 11

- Zip-tie the bearings onto wooden part 11 as depicted
- Place smooth rods though bearings while zip-tying to ensure they are straight and parallel
- Tighten zip-ties using pliers

Step 23:

4 – M3 10mm screws
1 – Small kysan motor “Y”

- Screw Y-axis motor onto wooden part 11
- Make sure the motor wiring faces opposite side of the single square hole (with motor label on the side of the single square hole)

Step 24:

1 – Acme Delrin nut (plastic white nut)
2 – M3 10mm bolts
1 – M3 16mm bolt
1 – M3 hex nut
Laser cut wood parts 12 and 13

- Screw Acme nut into part 12 using two M3 10mm screws
- Attach part 13 to part 12 using M3 16mm

Step 25:

1 – 7.5cm long screw
1 – Nylock hex nut
Laser cut parts 17 and 19

- Insert the two smaller wooden pieces through the slots of part 19
- It doesn’t matter which way they are going as long as they both go in the same way
- Enter the long screw through the thicker portion (part 19 is not symmetrical) if you can use an electrical screw driver as manually will take a while
- Lock the hex nut onto the bottom of the screw

Step 26:

2 – M3 16mm screws

- Secure previous wooden assembly (with large screw) onto part 13 of step 23 using M3 16mm bolts

Step 27:

2 – M3 10mm screws
1 – Longer wiring end-stop
Y-motor assembly

- Screw end stop to small holes on top left corner of wooden platform with the open part facing up (away from the platform)
- Make sure the end stop wiring goes down between the motor and the bearings

Step 28:

3 – M3 16mm screws

- Attach Acme nut assembly to Y-axis motor assembly

Step 29:

1 – 17cm Acme rod
1 – Translucent vinyl tubing
1 – Zip tie

- Thread/twist rod into vinyl tubing until it is about 1cm in and secure with zip-tie around tubing
- Thread Acme rod through Acme Delrin nut
- Mount the assembly of part 11 on to the smooth rods and connect rubber tubing to shaft of “Z” motor and secure where the tubing surrounds motor shaft with two more zip-ties (tightened as much as possible)

Step 30:

4 – M3 16mm bolts
4 – M3 hex nuts
Laser cut wooden parts 14, 15 and E6

- First attach parts 15 and E6
- Then fit the two onto part 14

Step 31:

4 – M3 16mm screws
4 – M3 hex nuts
Laser cut wooden parts 3 and 10

- Attach previous assembly to the end of part 3
- Then add part 10 to the other end as depicted

Step 32:

4 – M3 16mm bolts
4 – M3 hex nuts
Laser cut wooden part 4

- Attach part 4 to the previously assembled parts

Step 33:

2 – 16.5cm smooth rods
4 – Zip-ties

- Insert smooth rods into Y-axis bearings
- Secure the previously assembled wood piece to smooth rods with a zip-tie on each end
- Make sure the zip-tie nobs are on the outer side of the assembly (otherwise they will obstruct y-axis movement)

Step 34:

1 – M3 10mm bolt
1 – M3 10 hex nut
Super glue
Fishing line (left-over of what was cut off from x-axis assembly)

- Tie two knots around bolt (make sure it won’t come off!)
- Screw bolt through hole and secure with hex nut (screw head on inner side, and hex nut on outside of assembly)
- Apply some glue onto knot to secure it

Step 35:

4 – M3 16mm bolts
1 – M3 10mm bolt
1 – M3 Hex nut
Laser cut wooden parts 23, 24 and 25

- Attach parts 25 to part 23 using the 4 M3 16mm bolts and screw this assembly to the right side of y-axis assembly
- Screw 10mm bolt through part 24 and thread hex nut to secure it (don’t tighten it completely) The side from which the bolt is screwed doesn’t matter, either is fine – This is the y-axis fishing line new tensioning point

Step 36:


- Measure 21.2cm and mark spot with marker pen
- Tie a double knot around head of m3 10 bolt attached to part 24 at marked point

Step 37:

1 – 1/4” 20 bolt

- Wrap the fishing line tightly two times around y-axis sandpaper pulley and pull tight on the tensioning end so as for it to fit in the slot between part 23 and the wood base (IMPORTANT: the line should not cross/overlap itself)
- While pulling tightly on tensioning piece, thread bolt through other end of the slot using screw driver so as for the two be threaded next to each other in the hole
- Continue to screw bolt to tighten fishing line

Step 38:

- Plug Y-axis motor into “Y MOT”
- Plug Y-axis end stop into “Y-STOP”

Step 39:

4 – M3 16mm bolts
Laser cut wooden part 16

- Tighten fan onto wooden part as depicted (notice fan wiring direction)

Step 40:

- Run fan wiring and large kysan (extruder) motor wiring from top through to bottom of small rectangular hole f part 15

Step 41:

Threadlocker blue glue
Toothed drive gear
Little square wooden piece that came in hardware bag

- Unthread small lock in drive gear a little bit, and drip a small amount of threadlocker glue into space
- Use small wooden spacer to measure a few mm off extruder motor shaft and tighten drive gear on to motor shaft
- Mount extruder motor onto bed with motor shaft coming through circular hole

Step 42:

3 – M3 30mm bolts
Laser cut wooden parts E1, E2, E3, E4 and E5

- Stack parts onto long 30mm bolts in numbered order and as depicted
- Make sure the nylon spacer is flush with the bottom of the wood

Step 43:

Secure previous assembly onto extruder motor by screwing them into the small holes in each corner of motor

Step 44:

Super glue
Laser cut parts E9 and E10

- Fit these three pieces together as shown (do NOT use glue here they need to be free to rotate)
- Glue this small assembly onto fan assembly

Step 45:

1 – M5 16mm bolt
1 – 625ZZ bearing
1 – 18mm white nylon tube
1 – M3 30mm bolt
Laser cut parts E7A, E7B and E11

- Place 625ZZ bearing in between the two parts and screw M5 bolt entering through “A” (IMPORTANT: bearing must be able to freely rotate between parts A and B – so don’t tighten bolt too much!)
- Fit part E11 onto parts A and B
- Place the nylon tube through the larger holes of the A and B parts and screw small assembly onto extruder assembly using the 30mm bolt

Step 46:

1 – 6cm screw
1 – Extruder spring
1 – Nylock hex nut

- Slide screw through the spring
- Slide the rest of the screw through small wooden part E11 on extruder assembly and then through the small hole in the fan assembly
- Push down on head of screw and lock into place using the Nylock hex nut

Step 47:

1 – Hot end
2 – M3 20mm screws

- Place hot end into slot underneath extruder assembly
- Make sure it is in as far as depicted (if it does not fit in properly; loosen the 2 screws just above it on the extruder mount and push in firmly)
- Secure it in with the two M3 20mm bolts (an electric screwdriver would speed this up immensely)

Step 48:

- Plug extruder motor wiring into “E-MOT” slot on electrical board
- Make sure it is plugged the OPPOSITE way around as the other three motors as depicted

Step 49:

- Plug thermistor lead from hot end (translucent insulation) into thermistor extension (black and white wire insulation)
- Plug extension into “T-EXT” on board

Step 50:

- Plug hot end power lead (black insulation) into hot end power extension
- Plug extension into “EXTRUDER” slot on bottom of board
- Plug fan extension into fan wiring (match red with red, and black with black)
- Plug extension into “FAN” slot on the upper side of board

Step 51:

- Organize cabling with cable wrap (start from the extruder and work your way towards electrical board)
- Roll up left-over extruder motor wiring and tidily zip up with zip-tie

Step 52: Congratulations!

You have successfully assembled a Printrbot!!

Make sure to line your print bed with tape while printing, and also, zip-tie your left over wiring to the top corner of your motherboard for neater looking cabling.

Happy printing !

Step 53: Credits

By Robosavvy :)

For more info on purchasing a Printrbot: