Introduction: How to Convert Your DS-1 to Keeley All Seeing Eye and Ultra Mods

Convert your DS-1 to Keeley All seeing eye and ultra mods. I own and operate the site and wanted to give this information to a wider audience hence making instructables!

Step 1: What You Will Need & Removing Components

For these mods you will need:

  • 0.1uF Capacitor x 5
  • 1uF Capacitor x 4 (or two 0.47uF caps in parallel, it should give the same results)
  • 0.047uF Capacitor x 1
  • 3mm LED x 1 (I bought two so I didn't have to use the one that you take out of the DS-1)
  • on/on SPDT switch
  • 2.4k Resistor x 1
  • 20k Resistor x 1
  • 1.5k Resistor x 1
  • 220pf Cap x 1
  • 47pf Cap x 1

Removing Components
1. Use a flat head screwdriver to lever off the knobs on the DS-1 then use some pliers to unscrew the nuts on the pots.
2. Unscrew the black screws on either side to provide access to the on/off switch
3. Unscrew the nuts on the input jacks
4. Undo all four screws on the base plate
(not shown)
5. Remove base plate, plastic to get to the circuit board.
6. Remove the screw on the LED to the top of the pedal
7. Turn the pedal on its front so you can see where the battery goes. On my pedal, I simply had to push two sides of the clips together and lift out the switch. The wires were soldered through the pedal so I unsoldered the purple and black wires and set the switch aside.

You should now be able to completely remove the circuit from the housing.

Step 2: Removing Components

Remove C1, C3, C5, C12, C13 - these are silver in colour and look like they are covered in plastic (see below diagram)

Remove C2, C8, C9, C14 - Rather than being silver, these look like small black batteries (see below diagram)

Remove C11, R13, R14, R39, C7, D5 - This is a more mixed bunch, there's some silver caps, resistors and a ceramic cap. (see below diagram)

Step 3: Putting in the New Components

  • Place a 2.4k resistor in R13
  • Place a 20k resistor in R39
  • Place a 1.5k resistor in R14
  • C1, C3, C5, C12, C13 all need to be installed with 0.1Uf Caps
  • C2, C8, C9, C14 need to have 1uF caps installed (on the referance diagram I used two 0.47uF caps soldered together)
  • C11 needs to have a 0.047uF cap
  • C7 needs to be changed to a 220pf cap

See below diagram for how they sould look in place

  • Solder a 47pf cap across clipping diodes, you will need to look at the below image to see where to solder it.

Step 4: Switching Between the All-seeing Eye and Ultra Mods

Just a little warning - this is the hardest part of the mod.

First of all, its worth noting that it is a lot easier to not use a switch and just leave the pedal in either ASE or Ultra modes. If you just want the All seeing eye mod, you will need to remove D5 and replece it with an LED. If you want the Ultra mod, you will need to put a LED in series with D4 as well as changing D5. Difficult to get your head arround, check the diagram if you want it fixed in one mode.

Adding a switch is a little more complex, take these steps and you should be fine:

1. Undsolder D4 on the right hand side (this is the side with the black stripe on the diode)
and send that wire to the middle lug of the switch.
2. You then wire the + side of the LED to one of the two remaining lugs, it dosn't really matter which one.
The longer leg should be positive (
3. Send a piece of wire from the last remaining lug and the negative side of the LED to the space in D4.

(See 2nd referance diagram)

If you are installing a new check LED, note which side of the LED was + and - and put the new LED in accordingly - if you forget or don't know don't worry it wont damage the LED if you try it both ways. Usually, most 3mm LEDs will work with the current resistor in, but if you are using a 5mm LED change R35 to a 2k4 resistor.

Step 5: Re-Assembly

If you have used a switch this is important, you have to decide where to put it! The most room is on the sides just below the jacks, this however does look kinda clumsy and is kinda difficult to reach. The alternative is on the face of the pedal where all the knobs are. This is a bit more difficult, but looks a lot better. My pedal has the Keeley switch on the front and two more switches on the side (one for circuit bending and the other for switching between two capacitors).

If you want it on the front, be careful when drilling and make sure that you don't damage the components! (I took mine out for this bit) Remember to use a punch so the drill dosn't move (if you don't have a propper one, use a screw).

The easiest way to assemble is probably like this:

  • Bolt the switch to the front of the pedal
  • Attach the ASE LED to the front of the pedal
  • Screw the 'Check' LED to the pedal from the inside
  • Attach the jacks
  • Push the pots through the holes and screw them in
  • Make sure the 9V adapter is in its hole and push the back of the circuit down so the back will screw on
  • If you did any circuit bends and put the switches on the sides, wire them up now and attatch the switches to the side
  • Put the plastic behind the circuit and screw the pedal together!

Step 6: Sound Clips