Introduction: Hufflepuff Collage Patch

About: Compassion, Connection, Community. Compassion creates Connections and helps us to form Communities. The 3 basic C's of life all interwoven with Communication to make things work. Happy in Recovery :)

This post briefly explains how I made a Hufflepuff Collage Patch

This is only my second post so it is very rough. I do DIY and it's very makeshift and correct as you go along rather then solid steps with accurate directions, so please just use it as a rough idea for how to go about making it. (Also, I have no writing skills whatsoever, so please ask if something doesn't make sense.)

I love HP and Hufflepuff is my house so I figured why not!

This is my first patch ever so please be patient with me and if you have ideas to make it better please don't hesitate to let me know!

:)

Supplies

Materials

Black and white printout of picture to collage-Used a Hufflepuff image I found online

Permanent Marker/Pens- To shade the Black and White image giving it distinct hues/gradients

Scrap fabric in the colours you would like to match to the coloured image- I chose a variety of blacks/Whites/Yellows

Elmers glue Chalk/Pencil to line outline the collage pieces cut out from the Printout on the fabric

Scissors

Sewing Machine

*Added after the fact and learning from others

Interfacing

Fabric glue/Super glue

*Bonus Craft!

Two long sleeve shirts- 1 yellow 1 black (These were added after I remembered I don't know how to edit myself when it comes to crafting and I always go beyond what is needed.)

Step 1: Beginning

1. Look over your black and white image.

Here is where you will scan across your image to find all the gradient changes you can. These are spaces where the shading changes, going from black to white with grey ranges in between.

What I do here normally is mark them on a scale of 1-10 or more, depending how many gradients you have in your image. I use 1 as the lightest 5 as the darkest for this project.

I number them with pen marking all the matching areas with the same number. Almost like a reverse paint by number. Only paint by shade.

I use a permanent marker for the darkest pigment and a pen to outline the other areas into sections.

You can see the original image and the numbered image above to compare.

You can also see the background was labeled with Y for Yellow, DY for Dark Yellow, G for gold and W for white for the background behind the badger.

You can see in the first picture I have a close up of all the fabrics I used. As you look left to right you can see which fabrics match to which number. Darkest to lightest. This way when I cut out the section I am working on I can cut it out of the fabric to match.

*Afterthought

I realized after having cut out all the pieces that some of the fabric was difficult to use. Here is where you would sew your fabric scrap to interfacing to make it more stable and easier to cut.

2. First cut!

I used the entire silhouette to create the full patch size. This will be the background piece to which all smaller pieces will be laid on top of and sewn to. This piece was done in gold

As I move from here I begin to cut the image into smaller sections as I move from bigger section to smaller section, and as I do that I cut out a new piece of fabric to match the gradient.

THINGS TO KEEP IN MIND

1. Work slowly and stick to an order as you cut out each piece. Things get lost easily the smaller your collage pieces get.

2. Flip the image upside down when tracing onto your fabric, while making sure the fabric is wrong side up. This way when you cut them out and flip them back they are right side up and match the image. Unless you want a reflection, leave the fabric right side up.

3. When tracing on black or dark fabrics use chalk.

When I had a NO.5 I used my black fabrics and they got lighter each gradient I went down.

I used different prints that went from:

Solid black->Black with galaxy swirls->Black with white plaid->White with black flowers>-White with white flowers

For the Yellow I used a variety of yellow and light beige to represent the leaves on the inner shield as well as the gold on the outer lining of the shield.

This step shows you the first cut. I cut out the shield, placed it face down on the wrong side of the fabric and traced it. To this piece only I added an extra 1/4inch to make it more stable. Later realized I didn't need to do it because I ended up cutting an extra piece of solid black to the back as a backing. This helped to stabilize the gold shield. (Of course by this point I had already spent a lot of time cutting tiny triangles to make the 1/4 in. fold inwards neatly, then iron it around the round edges, and then glued them flat which made things a sticky mess...)

Life my friend! Full of learning moments!

Step 2: Progression!

As you piece it together you can check each layer and trim it to fit how you'd like it to. Once completed take it apart and reassemble only this time add an outline of elmers glue to each layer. Just a long bead going all along the outline of it.

You can also use a fabric glue to secure it or a super glue to secure it if you don't feel like stitching it. But note you can't leave a patch unstitched if you use elmers glue. It will dry and fall apart or wash away.

Once you've secured it, let it dry, then feel free to run run stitches around the entire perimeter of each visible outline. This will secure all edges.

*NOTE

When you sew it, it will leave pin sized holes you can kind of see through. So if that's not something you want then I wouldn't recommend it. I left mine just glued together, which I have to re-glue with sturdier glue.

* DOUBLE NOTE

I found after working with flimsy fabric, which made for hard cutting and sloppy edges, ironing the fabric to interfacing helps to stabilize the fabric making it easier to cut and giving it a sturdier shape.

Another learning moment!

Step 3: Endless Possibilities!

Here is the finished patch up close! You can see the leaves in the background as well as the highlights on the shield!

Here you can use your patch however you'd like!

Here I placed it on the back of a jacket, I placed it on top a swatch of yellow or gold alternating on a yellow or black shirt!

The choice is yours!

Step 4: BONUS CRAFT! Chalk and Sew Don't Ya Know!

This part was a fun bonus craft I have been wanting to do for a while! I LOVE LOVE LOVE Raglan tees. They are my favourite shirt but the always seem to be on the spendy side. Here I took two long sleeve shirts, 1 yellow, 1 black, and combined them to make for one Raglan Black bodied, Yellow sleeved shirt.

What better item to place that patch on?

*APOLOGIES

This wasn't originally in my plan so the remainder of this instructables gets kind of muddled with pictures missing because it wasn't very well thought through. So apologies!

Lay your shirt flat backside facing up.

Back of shirt:

Start from where the Shoulder Seam meets the Collar seam and from that point, measure 2 inches along collar seam and mark with chalk.

Collar: Mark 1/4 in down from collar seam and Mark with chalk all the way around the collar

Front side: Start from where the Shoulder Seam meets the Collar seam and from that point, measure 2 inches along collar seam and mark with chalk.

Armpit: Find where sleeve seam and seam along side of shirt running to the waist meet up. Measure 1 inch down from there.

Take chalk and run a line from the 2 inch marking on the collar, down the to 1 inch mark under the armpit.

Do this on both sides of the front and both sides of the back.

On each side of the line I added a second line 1/4 inch away from the original line towards the middle of the shirt. This is where you will make the cut. The original chalk line will be where you sew.

Cut along your chalked areas.

Repeat this process with your second shirt.

Step 5: Line Your New Shirt Pieces Up!

At this point you can have two Raglan tees just by alternating the colours and resewing them.

Now we piece them together. Turn each piece inside out and pin them where the edges line up. I had no pins so I just used elmers glue to hold it together. (It really does work! And it washes out too!)

Run a 1/4 in stitch along each of the edges (4 total) and feel free to add the collar back here. Here you can keep the shirt flipped right side out and just flip your collar piece inside out, line it up around the raw edge collar and run a 1/4 stitch along side the edge.

Shall we add another bonus?....

Step 6: BONUS! LET'S ADD a HOOD!!!

I regret doing this part...

It was more work then I thought and also I have no idea how to really explain it.

Here I used the hood of another shirt for a basic hood pattern. I placed it on top of the remaining body of the yellow shirt I had. I lined the front of the hood up with the bottom hemmed edge of the Yellow shirt so as to give the new hood a nice hem without having to create it.

To get the base measurement of the shirt I measured around the collar length of the new shirt. It was roughly 11-12 inches.

I didn't really like the way hood looked so I just ad libbed and made a free flowing pattern to add a little more area to the hood.

After wards, I cut the hood out, placed the pieces together with the wrong side out and stitched a 1/4 seam along the raw edges.

*NOTE

Flip the hood pattern when you cut it out, so the top of the hood runs along the edge seam of the shirt. This way you don't have to cut the bottom only to resew the top.

Life strikes!

This is where life gets confusing and very lost. So...Good luck

Here I take the hood, find the middle of the collar line (Usually the back middle) and line it up with the collar line of the shirt, in the back in the middle.

From there I sewed a 1/4 in stitch going towards to left end. Then went back to the middle where I started and stitched it out to the right.

Life strikes again!

As you can see the hood didn't reach all the way around the collar and left a huge gap.I was very tired at this point so I just did a makeshift collar. I used part of the old yellow collar and stitched it across the front to close the gap and fill it in. I think it came out pretty ok...

You would think after things got difficult, while being incredibly tired I would call it a night. NOPE!

Bonus decoration!

Step 7: BONUS! STRIPES BECAUSE I CAN'T STOP!

Stripes!

These directions and pictures seem to follow my mood as the night wore on...my apologies...

Here I folded my shirt in half. Found where I wanted my stripes to start and just marked it with pen. I measured 2 inches from there, then 1.5 inches, followed by another 2 inch mark.

I cut them at the first mark nearest the body.

Grabbed the black sleeves and laid them underneath the newly cut yellow sleeves and cut the black sleeves.

I then cut all the yellow stripes while making sure the cut the black ones at the same time. I then alternated the stripes.

Black 2 inch strip-Yellow 1.5 inch strip-2 inch black strip.

I sewed each of these by simply flipping the new addition inside out and lining up the sleeve pieces together. And I apologize. This was all a last minute addition and I didn't get all the pictures up.

This is where I remind people just to have fun and create as you go along, it makes it more fun and unique!

Step 8: WE HAVE FINALLY WON THE HOUSE CUP!

Here it is! I just tacked on my patch and I am all set for next years Harry Potter and the Half Blood Prince at the MN Orchestra!

A makeshift, HufflePuff Collage Patch on an Upcycled Raglan Hooded Tee with Striped Sleeves.

I apologize for the bad directions and the lack of good photos. This is my 2nd time making an instructable and am hoping to get better with each one but I am hoping if anything you can at least use the idea for inspiration for a future item.

I hope you enjoy!

Also my pictures came out upside down. Haha. Oh life! A lesson for tomorrow after much needed sleep!

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