I needed a simple dowel jig for a project I was about to begin, so like most of us, I headed to Amazon. There were plenty to choose from and the prices varied. I looked at a simple self-centering jig that cost around $20. Looking at it further I decided I could make this. I have a laser cutter and plenty of stock, so this is what I came up with.

Supplies

Tools I used:

Computer with Lightburn software
Laser cutter/engraver (I have the X-Tool D1 Pro 20 watt)
Laser safety glasses
clamps

Materials:

7" x 7" piece of 1/4" Birch plywood
1/4" ID x 1" steel spacer (x2)
3/8" ID x 1" steel spacer
2-part epoxy

The only thing I needed to purchase for this project were the three spacers and they were less than $5 for all three. I picked them at Lowes in the hardware section.

Those of you that would like to make one of these, I've attached the Lightburn file.

dowel jig.lbrn2
Download

Step 1: Design

Time to design. I wanted my Jig to be 5" long and 1.5" wide. Here's how I designed it.

I first placed a hexagon.
Then I used the round over tool to put a .35" radius on the corners.
I then resized it to 1.5" x 5"
In order for the spacer to fit snugly, I had to compensate for the kerf of the laser. So I made some test cuts until I found the right size to fit the outer diameter (OD) of the spacer. For example, the OD of the 3/8" spacer is .5". If I were to cut a .5" inch hole the spacer would fit loose. By adjusting for the kerf, I cut a .494" hole. This had the spacer fitting snugly which would give me a more accurate placement for the dowel hole. The hole for the 1/4" spacers which has an OD of .375" or 3/8" was cut at .367".
I then added the hole to the parts to be cut. I cut four layers altogether.

dowel jig.lbrn2
Download

Step 2: Cutting It Out

I then connected the computer to the laser and ran the file to cut out the parts.

Step 3: Assembly

While the parts were getting cut I took that time to use some 150 grit sandpaper to scuff the finish on the spacers. Doing this will ensure a better mechanical bond with the epoxy. I then used denatured alcohol to clean them. After the parts were cut it was time for glue up.

I mixed some two-part epoxy and inserted the middle spacer into the top layer (single hole). Spread some epoxy and added the other single hole layer. Spread some more epoxy and added the third layer (three holes) and inserted the 1/4" spacer in the outer holes. Spread some epoxy and added the final layer and then clamped it up to dry.

After the glue dried, I removed the clamps and did some sanding to clean up the edges.

Step 4: Testing

Let's give this thing a try. I had a scrap piece of 3/4" cherry laying by my workbench so it became my guinea pig.

The jig works simply by placing it on the edge of your work-piece and turning it so the outside pins come in contact with the wood. This automatically centers your drill guide. Drill your hole to your desired depth using the guide. I used a piece of painter's tape on my bit to mark my depth. Remove the jig, clear any chips in the hole and insert your dowel.

The dowel was centered nicely and was vertical. I'd call that success. This little jig is going to simplify my next project greatly.

This was a fun little afternoon project, I hope you like it.