Introduction: Live Edge Epoxy Resin Custom Outdoor Bar Table

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About: I`m an accountant who has recently taken up woodworking as a hobby in my spare time.

This is my first “Instructables” post. I'm a professional accountant and recently took up, as a hobby, building functional live edge epoxy resin furniture for my house in my spare time. This is my 5th piece that I've built, and the most elaborate to date. I had 2 live edge boards that I had previously purchased, and thought that they would make an interesting bar table. I`ve tried to detail my bar table build as much as possible. It is a custom build and all measurements were based on accommodating the size of the bar top.

Supplies

Materials – Bar Table

Materials - Wine Glass Rack

  • Plain Wood Moulding 3” × 1/4 ” x 12 ½” – 4 pieces
  • 3/4" x 1 " x 12 ½” – 4 wood strips
  • 1 ½ " × 1 ½ " x 17” - 2 wood pieces
  • Brown Deck Screws - #8 x 1 ¼ "
  • Porter Cable 5/8” Galvanized Brad Nails

Materials - Resin Molds

  • Large sheets of particle board
  • 2”×4” boards cut to fit size of bar top and shelf
  • Tuck Tape
  • Clear Silicone Sealant
  • Brown Deck Screws - #8 x 3-in

Tools Used

  • Porter Cable Electric hand planer
  • Circular saw
  • DeWalt 12 IN. DOUBLE-BEVEL SLIDING COMPOUND MITER SAW
  • RIDGID 15 Amp 10 -inch Table Saw
  • DeWalt 3 amp 5-inch Corded Single Speed Random Orbital Sander
  • DeWalt DWP611PK compact router
  • DeWalt DW6913 Router Edge Guide
  • Router Bits: Roundover 1/8”, Mortising ½”, Double flute straight ¼ “
  • DeWalt 20V MAX cordless drill
  • Drill sanding wheel
  • 2 Bessey 50” clamps
  • 4 small clamps
  • Milescraft Drill Block
  • Hammer
  • Chisels
  • Brad Nail gun
  • Propane Torch

Step 1: Prepping the Bar Top and Shelf

• The slabs of Spalted Silver Maple I had chosen were rough cut, so I planed the slabs down using the electric hand planer until all the saw marks were gone
• This top slab contained a section where the trunk branched into two. I used a hammer and chisels to remove the bark as I wanted this thin section filled with epoxy resin
• Bark of the tree on the outer sections was removed with a chisel and then sanding using the cordless drill with the drill sanding wheel
• The bar top was cut to a length of 53 ¾ ” using the circular saw to fit in its’ intended space
• Both the bar top and shelf were then sanded with various grits of sandpaper : 60 grit, 100 grit, and finally 120 grit

Step 2: Building the Bar Top Resin Mold

• The bar top is irregular in shape 53 ¾ ” in length by 25 ¼ ” wide at its widest point and 22” at its narrowest point
• The mold was built to encompass 53 ¾ ” by 25 ¼ ” using particle board and 2”x 4” boards
• All pieces of the mold were covered with strips of Tuck Tape prior to assembly, as epoxy resin does not adhere to Tuck Tape
• The 2”x 4” boards were attached to the particle board sheet using Brown Deck Screws - #8 x 3-in
• All seams between the 2”x 4” boards and the particle board sheet were sealed with a thin layer of Silicone Sealant

Step 3: Bar Top Resin Pour

• As I wanted to keep the live edge of the slab for the front of the bar table I placed a generous bead of silicone along the bottom front edge and front height edge of the bar top to prevent any resin from the pour to seep to the front.
• I used Ecopoxy FlowCast® Casting Epoxy for the pour per the manufacturers directions. This epoxy is good for pours between 1/2” and 1 ½ “, and has an excellent release of bubbles. I mixed a small amount of EcoPoxy Pearl Metallic Color Pigment as the color for this project (1/2 teaspoon per resin pour – a little goes a long way)
• Here is a link to calculate the amount of Ecopoxy FlowCast® Casting Epoxy required for the pour: https://support.ecopoxy.com/en/how-to-measure-flowcast
• This bar top is 1 ¾ thick, slightly more than the recommended pour depth, so I did 2 pours for this bar top.
• A second pour should be made between 25 - 48 hours providing the previous pour is firm and still tacky. Once it is tack-free you must sand between layers to ensure proper adhesion
• Most bubbles will rise to the surface and pop themselves, however, to ensure a bubble free pour use a propane torch to get rid of bubbles in the resin. Hold the torch a few inches above your project, so that the flame lightly brushes the surface of the resin and keep the torch moving at all times in a back and forth motion.
• I waited at least 1 week before removing the bar top from the mold.
• I lightly sanded the top with 120 grit sandpaper, both the resin and wood sections and vacuumed the dust and went over the area with a tack cloth to ensure a dust free surface.
• Note that the resin area will appear hazy, but will regain its glossy shine when we apply the top clear coat of resin in a later step.

Step 4: Bar Top Wood Finish

• I decided on using a Wood Oil as it brings out the natural tone and patina of the wood, it enhances the grain and it will appear darker and have what is called the “wet look”.
• I used Osmo Polyx Matte 3031 Hard Wax Oil on the wood section
• The problem with using a wood oil is that epoxy will not adhere to a wood oil
• To get around this I let the wood oil fully cure for 7 days, and then applied a coat of Zinsser Bulls Eye Sealcoat Shellac Base Universal Sanding Sealer on the wood section
• The Zinsser Sealcoat Shellac Sealer will adhere to the wood oil, and acts as an adhesive coat for the epoxy resin.

Step 5: Building the Bar Table Base

• As this is a custom build, I designed the base to fit the bar top
• Using the compound miter saw Cut 4 table legs at 33” each from the 4”X4” x 8 ft. cedar posts
• Cut 2 mid cross braces out of the remaining 4”X4” posts at 10 5/16”; these will be used to join the front and back legs
• Using the cedar 2” x 4”s cut 4 cross braces at 42 ¼ “ (2 top cross braces and 2 shelf cross braces)
• Using the cedar 2” x 4”s cut another 4 side cross braces at 12 ¾ “ (2 top side braces and 2 shelf side braces) and another 4 pieces at 10 5/16 “ (these will be used to reinforce the top side braces)
• Glue and clamp together 2 front legs (4”X4”x33") and 2 front cross braces (2” x 4” x 42 ¼ “) (one for the top and one for the shelf). The top cross brace will be flush with the top of the legs and the bottom cross brace will be 3” from the bottom of the leg
• Attach each the cross braces to the front legs with 2 6-in Structural Wood Screws (total of 8 structural wood screws)
• Repeat the above steps for the rear legs and rear cross braces using another 8 structural wood screws
• Glue and brace with clamps one of the mid cross braces (4”X4”x 10 5/16”) to the front and back legs; the top of the mid cross brace will rest 12” from the top of each leg
• Attach the mid cross braces with 2 Structural Wood Screws; one on both the front and back leg
• Repeat the above steps to attach the other mid cross brace (4”X4”x 10 5/16”) to the front and back leg on the other side
• Glue 2 of the 2” x 4” x 10 5/16 “ pieces together, and then drill holes and attach with 2 Brown Deck Screws ( #8 x 3-in) at 1 ¾ “ from the end of each board
• Glue these attached boards 10 5/16 “ onto one of 2” x 4” x 12 ¾ top side braces centering from each end and attach with 2 Brown Deck Screws ( #8 x 3-in) at 3“ from the end of each 12 ¾ board; this will reinforce the top side brace
• Repeat for the remaining 2 of the 2” x 4” x 10 5/16 “ pieces and the remaining 2” x 4” x 12 ¾ top side brace board
• Attach each of the 3 piece 2” x 4” boards you just constructed with glue and 2 Brown Deck Screws ( #8 x 3-in) at 1/2“ from the end of each 12 ¾ board to the top inside of each of thee 4”X4”x33" legs
• Flip the base over to attach the levelling feet. I used Swivel & Adjustable Leg Leveler Feet as the outside area where I planned to put the bar table had slightly uneven patio stones. These were a bit pricy, however, they are rated at 1000 lbs. load for each leveler. They are well constructed and match all of the other black hardware used in the build.
• You can do the installation in three easy steps: 1. Drill a 2" deep hole using 7/16" drill bit; 2. Tap in T-nut with hammer; 3. Screw in leveler to desired height.
• A Milescraft Drill Block was used to ensure the holes were drilled at a perfect 90 degree angle.
• Coat the base with Osmo UV-Protection-Oil 410 Clear to protect from the elements as this project will be situated outdoors.

Step 6: Building the Wine Glass Holder

• Note that this wine glass holder was built to accommodate larger wine glasses (17 oz. or 500 ml glasses; smaller wine glasses will not fit)
• Glue the 4 pieces of 3/4" x 1 " x 12 ½” wood strips to wood Moulding strips 3” × 1/4 ” x 12 ½” and secure with 5 evenly placed 5/8” Galvanized Brad Nails using the Brad Nail gun.
• Secure these 4 pieces to the 4 pieces of 1 ½ " × 1 ½ " x 17” wood using a Brown Deck Screws (#8 x 1 ¼ ")
• I placed the Brown Deck Screws 4 ¾ “ apart.
• I also used an additional 4 Stanley 1” Corner Braces to secure these pieces to prevent movement
• As with the base, Coat the Wine Glass Holder with Osmo UV-Protection-Oil 410 Clear to protect from the elements
• I the secured the Wine Glass Holder to the inside of top cross braces with an additional 4 Stanley 1” Corner Braces ensuring the 1 ½ " × 1 ½ " x 17” wood pieces were flush with the bottom of the top cross braces.

Step 7: Building the Epoxy Resin Wood Shelf

• The live edge wood piece was cut to 42 3/16 “, 1/16” shorter than the shelf cross braces which were 42 ¼” to allow for fitting.
• The width of the piece was between 11” and 11 ½ “ at its widest point.
• As with the bar top, the shelf was coated with Osmo Polyx Matte 3031 Hard Wax Oil to bring out the natural tone and patina of the wood.
• The wood oil fully cured for 7 days, and then I applied a coat of Zinsser Bulls Eye Sealcoat Shellac Base Universal Sanding Sealer.
• The Zinsser Sealcoat Shellac Sealer will adhere to the wood oil, and acts as an adhesive coat for the epoxy resin.
• The mold was built to encompass 42 3/16” ” by 17 ¼ ” (which will brings the shelf even to the outer edge of each leg and slightly overlap the shelf cross braces in the front and back and rests even with the shelf cross braces on the sides)
• Again I used particle board and 2”x 4” boards with all pieces were covered with strips of Tuck Tape prior to assembly, as epoxy resin does not adhere to Tuck Tape
• The effect I was looking for was a shelf looking like the wood was in water. I used Ecopoxy FlowCast® Casting Epoxy mixed with EcoPoxy Pearl Metallic Color Pigment for the first 7/8” of the pour; and then clear EcoPoxy FlowCast® Casting Epoxy without any pigment for the second pour of an additional 1”. As above a propane torch was used to remove any bubbles.
• I waited 1 week before removing the bar shelf from the mold. With the deep pour, there was a slight lip on the outer upper edge of the resin.
• I removed the edge using the DeWalt DWP611PK compact router with a Roundover 1/8” router bit and the DeWalt DW6913 Router Edge Guide

• The shelf epoxy was sanded with Orbital Sander and 120 grit sandpaper and all dust removed

• The shelf was then coated with EcoPoxy UVPoxy Clear Coating Epoxy. I used this particular epoxy for the top coat as it provides UV protection as this bar table will be situated outside.

Step 8: Installing the LED Lights

• I wanted the effect of the resin on the bar top glowing at night
• I routed a channel 7/8 “ wide and 51 ¼ “ long and 1/16 “ deep along the back of the resin of the bar top using the DeWalt DWP611PK compact router, a Mortising ½” router bit and the DeWalt DW6913 Router Edge Guide. It took 2 passes to achieve the desired width of the channel.
• I cut the Aluminum Flat Strip 1/16”×3/4”×6ft down to 51 3/16 “ to fit in the routed channel allowing for a bit of give in the event I have to remove the Aluminum Flat Strip in order to replace the LED lights (I actually replaced a cheap LED strip that I first installed with the better model listed above in the materials list which includes an app to control the LED lights from my phone in addition the supplied remote)
• I routed a second channel within the first using the Double flute straight ¼ “ router bit at a depth of ¼ “ to accommodate the LED light strip
• The LED light strip was attached to the Aluminum Flat strip; it comes with an adhesive tape
• The LED Light Strip controller was attached to the back of the rear table leg using adhesive tape
• A second LED Light Strip was attached to the inner side of the shelf cross braces
• The lights strips were plugged into to controller to ensure they worked.
• The Aluminum Flat Strip with the first light strip was then attached to the bar top using beads of clear silicone sealant; use painters tape to secure the Aluminum Flat Strip in place while the silicone dries.

Step 9: Bar Top Epoxy Resin Clear Coat

• As with the bar shelf, the bar top was coated with EcoPoxy UVPoxy Clear Coating Epoxy. Note that I had previously applied a coat of Zinsser Bulls Eye Sealcoat Shellac Base Universal Sanding Sealer which acts as an adhesive coat for the epoxy resin.
• I used this particular epoxy for the top coat as it provides UV protection as this bar table will be situated outside. This bar table will be situated under a covered waterproof upper deck with minimal exposure to sunlight.
• If there was more sunlight exposure or exposure to the elements it is recommended to lightly sand the epoxy top coat and apply 2 coats of Epifanes Clear Gloss Varnish (this should be reapplied every few years).

Step 10: Attaching the Accessories

• 2 Ikea BÄNGBULA Black Hooks were attached on outside of each of the upper cross braces
• 10" Center to Center Flat Black Modern Cabinet Pull was attached on the right side of the upper front cross brace to hang a Bar Towel. A Milescraft Drill Block was used to ensure the holes were drilled at a perfect 90 degree angle
• A Black Wall Mounted Bottle Opener was attached to the top of the left front leg
• An Umbra Cappa Wall Mount Paper Towel Holder was attached to the top inside of the right rear leg; attach to the rear leg to allow for easy replacement of paper towel rolls.

Step 11: Attaching the Bar Top and Shelf

• First, the Shelf was attached to shelf side cross braces with 4 of the ¾” PN Corner Braces (2 on each end)
• Then, the Bar Top was attached to the Frame with 8 - ¾” PN Corner Braces. These have a slotted mounting hole in one side which allows for wood movement.
• I had to remove the 1st and 4th rung of the Wine Glass Holder (2 deck screws on each) to gain access to attach the ¾” PN Corner Braces.
• Placement of the corner braces was 2 on each side attached to the top side cross braces; 1 on each of the front corners attached to the front cross brace; and 2 in the middle of the front cross brace.
• Note that there were no PN Corner Braces attached to the resin sections as I did not want the shadows of these to show when the table top LED lights were turned on
• The 2 rungs of the Wine Glass Holder were then reattached with the deck screws.

Step 12: Enjoy Your Bar Table

Sit back, have a few drinks and enjoy your outdoor bar table!

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