Patchwork Denim Jacket

I have boxes and boxes of scrap fabric, every once in a while my eyes fall on them and my first impulse is to throw it all out but then I can never bring myself to do it because well, I can make cool clothes with them that no one else has and it costs me very little.

So for this denim jacket, I chose mainly blue fabrics not only denim also thinner fabrics that I had to take double to give it an even stiff denim jacket feel. I lined the whole jacket to make the inside nice and smooth as well and yeah, it is a lot of work much more than just taking ready-cut fabric but so much more special, it is worth it, I think.

Supplies

• fabric scraps
• metal shaft buttons
• topstitching thread in a contrasting colour
• twin needles for topstitching
• denim jacket pattern, I used a pattern from this book Built by Wendy Coats and Jackets: The Sew U Guide to Making Outerwear Easy, but you could also take an old jeans jacket apart. If you don't have one nearly every charity shop has them or look for a pattern online.

Step 1: Choosing Fabric Scraps

While anything goes, I chose blue fabric scraps, denim, linen, patterned cotton to give it that denim jacket feel.

Step 2: Creating Fabric

The jacket pattern has a lot of smaller parts like yokes front and back, pockets and pocket flaps, each sleeve is made up of two pieces, the back has three panels (a middle and two sides). I chose one pattern piece at a time like the front yoke and sewed the scraps together and then went on to the next piece, I found this easier than creating one big fabric and then cutting the parts out.

There is a lot of ironing involved every seam you make has to be ironed to make the fabric look flat and nice.

Step 3: Sewing Pockets Onto Front Pieces

Sew the pockets onto the front pieces about 2" from the centre front edge, I used topstitching thread and twin needles. With right sides together, sew the pocket flap pieces together. Turn right side out and topstitch.

Step 4: Sewing the Pocket Flaps

Place the pocket flaps along the raw edge and sew the yoke onto the front piece, so the pocket flap is sandwiched between front piece and yoke.

Step 5: Sewing the Back Pieces

With right sides together sew side back to centre back. Press open and double topstitch the seam.

Step 6: Sewing the Back Yoke

With right sides together sew the back yoke to the back. Double topstitch the seams.

Step 7: Sewing the Waistbands

Sew the waistbands to the two front pieces right sides together. Then repeat for the back.

Step 8: Sewing the Sleeves

With right sides together, sew the side sleeve to the sleeve. You could leave 3" open at the bottom opening but this is optional. Double topstitch the seam to one side until you get to the opening, and then press open flat and topstitch on each side of the opening. Sew the

Step 9: Sewing Front and Back Together

With right sides together sew the front to the back at the shoulders.

Step 10: Sewing the Sleeves to the Body

With right sides together, sew the sleeves to the armhole.

Step 11: Sewing the Body Side Seams

With right sides together sew the front to the back at the side seams from the bottom opening to the sleeve opening.

Step 12: Sewing the Collar

With right sides together sew the collar pieces together around the outer edge. Turn them right side out, and topstitch around the outer edge.

Step 13: Sewing the Collar to the Body

With right sides together sew the collar to the neckline.

Step 14: Sewing the Button Holes

I stitched my buttonholes by hand but you can use a machine, of course. Handsewn buttonholes don't fray that's why I prefer them. The way it's done, you first cut the buttonhole slit making sure the button fits through and then sew a running stitch all around the slit.

Starting at the right top corner blanket stitch all around the buttonhole going over the running stitch you created before. I used 2 strands of yellow embroidery thread. There are quite a few buttonholes to stitch, I have 7 down the front, 2 on the pocket flaps plus 2 at the sleeve hems. Once finished with the holes sew on the buttons.

Step 15: Sewing the Lining

Sew the lining repeating the steps described before. Once you have the lining put together, with right sides together sew it around the neckline, sandwiching the collar. Then sew it to the front edge right sides together. Fit the sleeves into each other. Fold the waistband up and hand stitch to the facing all around the jacket.

Step 16: Sewing the Sleeve Cuffs

Sew the sleeve cuff to the sleeve opening. Then fold the cuff facing to the cuff around the outer edge and sides, turn right side out and topstitch around the entire cuff. Attach buttons to the cuffs.

Step 17: Pressing the Jacket

Once all the sewing is done, press the jacket once more using the steam setting on your iron.

And that's it, your funky new jacket is ready.