Portable Multimedia Bluetooth Speaker With 7" Screen

Hi! Thanks for stopping by and checking this project of mine.

This time I decided to build a wireless portable Bluetooth speaker that also has a multimedia screen built into it.

Not only does this speaker looks cool with the 7 inch screen integrated, it also serves a lot of features that a regular phone or tablet would have, including WiFi connectivity, video streaming, phone mirroring and many others.

I have designed this speaker using the Dayton Audio TCP115-4 4" woofer paired with the Dayton Audio TD20F-4 3/4" tweeter. The sound quality and rich bass it produces is quite amazing for such a budget woofer and tweeter combination. In the next step I have also included links to similar woofer and tweeter combo if you are unable to get the Dayton Audio ones.

I am also amazed by the amplifier that is integrated in the Android multimedia - it can output quite enough power to drive the speakers with little to no audible distortion at high volume.

As always I did my best to include the full parts and tools list, wiring diagram and plans for the enclosure. All can be found for download below this step. Make sure you watch the video first!

Step 1: Parts and Tools

🎁 $5 OFF your first App order on AliExpress - https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPN8FLo

✅ 7" Android Multimedia - https://bit.ly/3Co7bLn / https://geni.us/B8cPU

Dayton Audio TCP115-4 woofer - https://parts-express.sjv.io/Zdk2zQ / https://bit.ly/3VOpwrU

Dayton Audio TD20F-4 tweeter - https://parts-express.sjv.io/n1Oavo / https://bit.ly/3jOWwDc

26mm ID (7/8") ports (2X) - https://bit.ly/3ueEhHV / https://geni.us/hZtA

Crossovers - https://bit.ly/3x5PRXg / https://geni.us/vw2q

18650 batteries (6X) - https://bit.ly/3J3KCNl

Battery holder (2X 3 slot) - https://bit.ly/3svVtqB / https://geni.us/lliff

FM radio antenna (optional) - https://bit.ly/3bJwMQR / https://geni.us/g6VlWqa

DC Input Jack - https://bit.ly/35s1rxq / https://geni.us/Hbs3uD

Rubber feet - https://bit.ly/3IjqU2z / https://geni.us/E2PU4

Heat shrink tubing - https://bit.ly/3YRsVsV / https://geni.us/WZeB

MDF sealer - https://geni.us/9YyKv

3S 10A BMS board - https://bit.ly/3Q85BmI / https://geni.us/E30JaSC

12.6V 1A Charger - https://bit.ly/3X0263S / https://geni.us/Si0zNc

3S Battery level indicator - https://bit.ly/3X7TZCv / https://geni.us/JCbJ

Momentary push button - https://bit.ly/3CmokFk / https://geni.us/In06A7J

Carbon fiber vinyl - https://bit.ly/3X5GCCM / https://geni.us/l1oqW

M4X12mm Screws - https://bit.ly/3v6OKER

Tools:

TS101 soldering iron - https://bit.ly/3hQm4PP / https://geni.us/owyDm5G

Wire stripper - https://bit.ly/34kBgLn / https://geni.us/6epIs

Cordless drill - https://bit.ly/2UiMSbL / https://geni.us/A5AZi

Drill bit set - https://bit.ly/3S3i6zC / https://geni.us/ktAK1M

Jig saw - https://bit.ly/3GpY8w6 / https://geni.us/D8GC

Orbital sander - https://bit.ly/3I4yBcP / https://geni.us/gHqu0W

Wood router - https://bit.ly/3I7Aplm / https://geni.us/6okRl

Router circle jig - https://bit.ly/3G0kcfl / https://geni.us/JvCvO

Flush trim bit - https://bit.ly/3VzlIL0 / https://geni.us/bZRVci5

Step drill bits - https://bit.ly/3eM5GtB / https://geni.us/xYRx7J

Forstner bits - https://bit.ly/35snpjW / https://geni.us/F6it

Hole saw set - https://bit.ly/3YZU8tg / https://geni.us/hONP

Center punch - https://bit.ly/3xslc8u / https://geni.us/o5WBEwB

Helping hand - https://bit.ly/3B9mIgt / https://geni.us/Yyqyte

Step 2: Let's Start the Build!

Now that you have the build plans in front of your eyes, we can start the build. We will deal with the wiring of electronics later.

The main building material I am using is 10mm (3/8 in) MDF board. You can use plywood as well. You can use different thickness (8 or 12mm) if you want to, but will have to adjust the drawings by adding or subtracting the difference in thickness, length or width. I find MDF to be much more friendly when cutting or rounding corners. The dust produced is nasty stuff but with a good breathing mask it is OK to work with.

To get nice clean cuts definitely use a table saw if you have access to one (at your own risk). A jigsaw will also work but will most likely need some extra care to get smooth edges. As you can see I have cut grooves into the panels for easier and stronger assembly. It is easy to do with a table saw but if you don't have access to one, just keep the panels without the grooves cut.

Once we have the panels cut to the right dimensions, I trace the speaker and screen area on the front panel.

Before gluing the enclosure together I trace and drill the mounting holes for the battery holders as well. Also don't forget to drill a hole in each side panel where you will pass the amplifier wires through once the enclosure is assembled.

With some regular wood glue we can glue the enclosure together.

Then using a circle cutting jig and a router, I cut a 4mm deep groove to flush mount the speakers. This step is definitely not necessary. You can simply drill out the smaller inner circles using a hole saw to be able to mount the speakers on the front panel.

After I cut the grooves for flush mounting the speakers I clamped a piece of plywood and routed out the cutout for the multimedia screen to sit in. It is important to have a precise cut here so that the screen can be mounted against the inner edge.

Now that the enclosure has fully dried, I use a roundover bit to smooth the 4 edges of the speaker where the top/bottom panels meet with the sides. I also glued a few pieces of MDF on the backside of the front panel so that I can screw in the mounts for holding the multimedia screen. Now using a few drops of glue around the edge of the enclosure, I temporarily glue the front and back panels in place. Note that I cut the front and back panels a bit oversize so that I could trim them to the exact size once they are tacked in place.

Using a flush trim router bit I cut around the edge of the enclosure, leaving the front and back panels perfectly sized. I also round over the edges as well. A few small dots of glue is all it takes to keep the panels temporarily in place.

Once the panels are cut and shaped, I separate the panels from the enclosure using a few light taps from the inside. We can now drill out the inner holes for the speakers, including the smaller ones for the ports on the back panel. I then cut out a piece out of the back panel for accessing the electronics inside. The front and back panels are now ready for some MDF sealer. It is important to seal the MDF pores for a smooth paint finish. You can find the link for the sealer included in the parts list. Once the sealer dries up, I scuff the surface with 800 grit sandpaper, remove the oils and any residue with some spirits and finally wipe the panels with a tack cloth to ensure no dust stays on the surface. After a few light coats of primer, I sand the panels again with 800 grit and spray the color coat on top.

Since I decided to wrap my enclosure in faux leather, I begin by coating the enclosure and the leather with a layer of contact cement. Once they are non tacky to the touch, I carefully place them together to form a strong bond. Using some pressure I go around every square centimetre. Once wrapped and stretched around the corners, I cut off the excess.

I then cut and drill out the holes on the control panel for the switches, charging and USB port and the voltmeter using a sharp hobby knife. Take your time and cut slow - no one wants to lose a finger here. Once the holes are cut out, I wrap the panel in some carbon fiber vinyl for a nice finish.

I then mount the "gadgets" in place and apply some epoxy around the edges to hold them in place.

We can now glue the front and back panels to the enclosure. Before that I mounted the multimedia in place just because I glued the inner sides too close together so I was unable to put the multimedia once the front panel would be glued to the enclosure. I adjusted for that in the plans posted above.

Now onto the wiring!

Step 3: Wiring the Electronics

All that is left is wiring the electronics. With the provided wiring diagram it should be pretty easy to do. Don't repeat my mistake which you may have spotted in the video - I bridged the Front and Rear speaker wires. I quickly found out that stereo players don't work that way. So simply connect the FL- and FL+ wires to the left speaker and the FR+ and FR- to the right speaker. Once the wiring has been completed we can connect and insert the speakers.

Screwing the speakers down finishes the front of the speaker.

Step 4: Last Touches!

All that is left to do is install the ports, screw in the rubber feet and charge up the speaker. I did my best to sneak up on the fit of the ports so that I can avoid any glue. It turned out pretty good and I think I got the depth right to flush mount the ports.

All that is left is to test out the finished speaker!

Step 5: Final Thoughts

Actually I did not expect that this speaker will turn out to be so nice looking and playing. Of course a few mistakes were made while building it but overall it turned out great. I will repeat myself that unfortunately I am unable to convey how this speaker truly sounds but here are a few pictures to visualize the bass at least!