Introduction: WiFi / Bluetooth 5.0 Stereo Speaker Boombox

About: Nice to meet you! I'm Donny from Lithuania and I have a passion for designing aesthetic, yet durable and practical projects. Check my YouTube channel for more! ▶


Thank you for checking out one more project of mine. Hope you like this one! Full build plans, parts and tools lists are located in the next steps!

This time I decided to make a non-battery powered speaker that would mostly be used in my living room. I went for veneered sides and a faux leather wrapped front panel. To my eyes and ears the speaker turned out great. I really dig the wood-leather design that got me inspired when I saw the Focal Aria 906's.

Before we dive into the details of the build, make sure you check the video first. Thanks!

Step 1: Parts and Tools

This speaker is based on the Dayton Audio TCP115-4 4" woofer combined with the Dayton Audio TD20F-4 3/4" Soft Dome Neodymium Tweeter. The speakers are powered by the Bluetooth Amplifier Board with Wifi Up2stream Amp V4. This small amplifier board is cramped with features. It has many audio inputs, including Bluetooth, Aux, USB and optical. Music can also be streamed via internet from platforms like Spotify, Deezer and more. The amplifier can be controlled by an app and can provide 2x50W to 4 ohm speakers.

Arylic Amplifier Board with WiFi and Bluetooth 5.0 -

Dayton Audio TCP115-4 woofer - /

Dayton Audio TD20F-4 tweeter - /

🎁 $5 OFF your first App order on AliExpress -



Step 2: Let's Start the Build!

Make sure you check and download the attached plans for the speaker build.

The material used for the enclosure is 10mm (3/8 in) MDF board. You can use 12mm or thicker board but you will have to adjust the plans accordingly.

Also note that in the video I have cut rabbets into the top and bottom panels. This is not necessary for the enclosure but if you wish to do so, make sure to lengthen the side panels for the depth that your rabbet is cut.

Now that we have the plans printed out and ready, I cut the panels out using a table saw. The enclosure can be cut using a jigsaw as well but might need some sanding to get the edges straight.

Once all the panels were cut out, I carefully measured and marked the location of the amplifier. Those spots were drilled out. Make sure that the holes for the amplifier are only cut on a single side panel. Don't forget to drill a hole on the inner side panels for the crossover wires to pass through.

Step 3: Glue Up

Now that we have the panels cut out, we can glue the enclosure together. Having the rabbets cut in the top and bottom panels really helps here with the alignment of the pieces. I started by gluing in the side panels and the top and bottom panels together. I then glued the back panel in place.

Step 4: Cutting Out the Circles

I traced out the circles on the front panel for the woofers, tweeters and the ports. Then using my circle cutting jig, I routed the outer diameters of the circles around 4mm deep. This step is not necessary, only to have the speakers sit flush.

I then cut out the inner circles using a few hole saws and gave the front panel an edge trim for a nicer finish.

Step 5: Veneering the Enclosure

This was my first time veneering MDF using this method. It turned out great! I started by cutting 5 pieces of paper backed veneer to size (slightly over sized to trim later).

A layer of regular PVA wood glue is then applied on a panel and the veneer sheet. Then both the veneer and the side of the enclosure are left to fully dry for an hour or so. Once the glue on the surface is dry, a second thin coat of glue is applied and left for a few minutes until the glue becomes tacky. Then the two surfaces can be joined together.
Then applying moderate pressure and using an iron I heat the veneer locking the two surfaces together. I cut the leftover edge with a sharp knife and using a flat sanding block I smoothed the edge of the veneer.

Step 6: Routing the Back Panel

Once I had the veneer applied to all sides of the enclosure, I marked the location of the amplifier location and using a forstner bit, drilled out a hole in each side of the rectangle.

Then using a jig saw I cut the piece as close to the edges as I could so that the router bit has an easier job routing the edge smooth. I'm using a regular flush trim bit with a bearing at the end to trim around the edge, having the side and top / bottom panels as guides.

Step 7: Finishing the Enclosure

Probably the most satisfying part of any woodworking project is applying finish to your work. Before applying a coat of it, I quickly sanded it down using an orbital sander to have a nice finish.

I then applied a few coats of varnish on each veneered panel resulting in a nice and natural look.

Step 8: Wrapping the Front Panel

To wrap the front panel in faux leather, I coated both surfaces - the front panel and the faux leather in contact cement. Once the glue was tacky to the touch, I joined the two surfaces together and pressed the leather against every edge of the panel.

Once the leather was wrapped around the front panel (note that I cut a rabbet around the inner side of the front panel for the leather to wrap around) I cut the excess pieces and circles. A 8mm hole in the middle was also drilled out for the LED holder.

Step 9: Gluing the Front Panel

I applied a good amount of glue around the edges of the enclosure and pressed the front panel in place making sure the edges align perfectly.

Step 10: Installing the Electronics

Now we can install the crossovers inside each speaker chamber and route the input and tweeter cables through the hole of the side panels.

Now the crossovers can be glued in place and we can move on to the amplifier wiring. Before I mount the amplifier inside the enclosure, I remove the green speaker connector and the indicator LED from the amplifier. I do that by gently desoldering the connections until the components are free. I bend the connector legs 90 degrees so that when put back it stays upright. I also extend the LED with some 4 strand wire.
I then screw the crossover input wires to the amplifier terminal connector, attach the threaded standoffs and screw the amplifier assembly with 4 screws from the inside of the speaker chambers.

Step 11: Making the Amplifier Cover

To make the amplifier cover I used a piece of clear 2mm acrylic sheet that I scored and broke to size. I then printed out the template provided in the plans, glued it on top and drilled the holes according to the plans. The rest of the ports were routed out using a rotary tool. Once that was done, I rounded the edges of the acrylic with some sandpaper and drilled small holes for screws.

Step 12: Installing the Components

Now that I had the clear panel fabricated, I drilled out the screw holes, attached the two antennas of the amplifier and screwed the clear panel in place. I then followed by gluing in the amplifier's indicator LED.

I then mounted the drivers in place. I started by carefully locating, marking and drilling the screw holes for the drivers.
Before connecting the woofers to the crossover, I applied some silicone around the cables to seal the chambers against any air leaks.
I can now connect the woofers, lower them in place and use a few screws to hold them in place.
I then pressed in the ports.

Step 13: Last Touches!

To finish the speaker I glued 4 rubber feet on each corner of the speaker.

All set and ready to test!

Step 14: Final Thoughts

I gotta say that I really enjoy the look and sound that this speaker provides. The finish turned out to be looking the way I was hoping for. The stereo imaging of this speaker is definitely not phenomenal due to both tweeters being placed in the middle of the speaker but it works great as a center piece under a TV for example. The speaker produces decent bass and the sound quality of the amplifier is great.

Hope you give this build a try! Please consider subscribing to my YouTube channel for more videos like this! Feel free to leave a comment, will do my best to answer them.

Thanks! Hope you have a good one.

- Donny

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