Modern irons are complex devices packed with electronics. They feature electronic temperature regulators and even touchscreen controls. In the latest models, a video camera has even been added to track the working surface and fabric. As you know, the more complex the device, the more difficult it is to repair. When repairing, I follow the principle of parsimony, which states that other things being equal, the simplest possible explanation should be preferred.

Supplies

Tools:

Multimeter or indicator lamp
Clamp meter (optional)
Soldering station (optional)
Soldering iron & solder
Set of screwdrivers
Wire cutters
Pliers
Utility knife

Materials:

Relay 10A/240V AC
Thermal fuse
Heat shrink tubing or Kapton (optional)
Thermal paste
Descaling agent

⚠️ Safety First!

Unplug the iron from the power outlet before checking it for malfunctions. High-voltage AC is life-threatening!

Step 1: A Little History of Irons

The first semblance of iron appeared in Ancient Greece, where heated stones were used to pleat clothes.

The Chinese were some of the first to use heated metal tools for ironing.

Beginning in the Middle Ages, blacksmiths began creating cast iron irons with handles, making them more user-friendly. These “flat irons” remained the standard for centuries, requiring constant heating over a fire or coals.

Electric Revolution (1880s Onwards): The late 19th century saw the invention of the electric iron. Though bulky and lacking temperature control at first, electric irons eventually became lighter, more efficient, and featured thermostats for safer and more effective ironing.

The 20th century brought about a variety of improvements. Steam irons offer a more effective way to tackle wrinkles. Automatic shut-off features enhance safety. Today's irons boast features like digital controls, self-cleaning functions, and even vertical steaming for delicate garments.

And of course, we have all seen coal irons that are used as decorative elements, and some even manage to use them as anvils. I also have a small collection of antique electric and cast-iron irons. But for me, they represent decorative and historical value.

Step 2: Electrical Scheme

This is a schematic of an iron similar to mine. The respective diagrams are presented to understand the overall operation of devices of this type. Since modern devices are equipped with microcontrollers, in the event of their failure, it is better to change the board or the program of the respective device. Any other faulty electronics on the board can be replaced with a similar one.

Russell Hobbs steam glide iron (Model N:12236 iron, 2200W)

Technical specifications:

220V/2200W iron
Temperature control by a digital microprocessor maintains the selected temperature accurately
Selected temperatures can be visually recognised by LED indicator lights
2-way automatic shut-off (vertical position: 7 minutes)
horizontal position: 30 seconds
Heater heating up and cooling down LED indicator (red)
Shot of steam, 100 g/min
Self-clean system
Cool spray mist
Stainless steel sole plate
Soft grip handle (top) provides a slip-resistant grip
Large water tank capacity: 400 ml
Anti-calcium extends iron life by preventing lime scale build-up
Anti-drip
360 degree swivel cord (extra-long 8-foot)
Steam Output: 30g/min

Russell Hobbs steam glide iron.pdf
Download

Step 3: Inspecting the Iron

Before starting to repair the iron, it is necessary to inspect it externally for mechanical defects. Also, inspect the power cord and body for signs of burnout. Before plugging it into the socket, I recommend checking with a multimeter or indicator screwdriver for a short circuit to the body.

Before disassembling the iron body, make sure that there is no other reason for the device to malfunction. It often happens that, due to the chafing of the power cord, the contact of the wire going to the device is lost. Also, the problem may be in the iron's electrical plug itself. For this, it must also be checked with a multimeter.

⚠️ During work, pay special attention to safety. High-voltage AC is life-threatening!

Step 4: Disassembling the Iron

In newer models of irons, it is not so easy to disassemble the body. You will need a set of screwdrivers of different sizes and patience when disassembling the plastic body. Do not rush to separate and tear out the iron segments. Try to carefully disassemble the body without breaking the plastic latches, which may not be visible during external inspection.

I recommend preheating the plastic before disassembling it with a hairdryer or hot air heater.

The fasteners may be located under the indicator panel or the temperature control knob. They may also be hidden under a sticker on the back of the iron. To access the sole plate, it will be necessary to disassemble the iron almost completely.

Step 5: Troubleshooting

In my case, the Russell Hobbs steam glide 2200 iron emitted beeps, but at the same time, the sole plate did not heat up. After disassembling the back cover of the iron, it turned out that the possible defect lies in the executive board, namely in the device relay. The control board is located in the handle of the device, where the LEDs and control button are also located.

It turned out that due to the frequent switching of the relay, its contacts burn out. Considering that the power of the iron is 2200 watts, and the parameters of the relay are 10 Amps at 220 Volts. This means that sooner or later the relay, subjected to such loads, will fail. If you use the iron often, I would recommend replacing the standard relay of the device with a solid-state relay. A solid-state relay is electronic and works on the basis of a simistor. The number of on-off cycles in this case is practically unlimited. There are many circuits of such devices, assembling one of them is not difficult, the main thing is to have the details.

Step 6: Relay Replacement

In my case, it was easier to replace the relay with a new one. What I found was suitable. Considering that this device is rarely used, replacing the relay with a solid-state one was not advisable.

Due to the fact that the board was covered with varnish, I had to use a soldering station—a heat gun—in order to solder off all the relay legs at the same time. This can also be done with a soldering iron, gradually soldering the relay leads.

Step 7: How the Heater Protection Works

In the event of an iron malfunction, the fuse protects the thermoelectric heater from failure. That is, even if there is constant heating of the sole plate of the iron, it will not burn out thanks to the thermal fuse.

There is also an electronic temperature sensor that goes to the control board. And also a round bimetallic plate, which is also an additional protection against burnout of the tubular electric heater. In other irons, I have met reusable bimetal-based thermal fuses in a rectangular ceramic body.

Step 8: Thermal Fuse

After replacing the relay, it turned out that the malfunction was not only in it, but also in the thermal fuse. Therefore, I had to disassemble almost the entire body of the device in order to have access to the sole plate where the device's thermal protection is located.

This device used a disposable thermal fuse designed to operate at a nominal temperature of 240 degrees Celsius. To replace it, I had to unscrew the cambric fastening with a screwdriver and thus get to it.

Using a multimeter or a battery-powered lamp, we check the thermal fuse and make sure it is faulty. After replacing it, we reassemble everything in reverse order. If necessary, add heat-resistant insulation. Fibreglass tubing, or Kapton, is suitable as an insulator.

Step 9: Restoration Vs. Replacement (Use With Caution!)

⚠️ Warning: Bypassing a thermal fuse is a dangerous solution and should only be attempted in a pinch.

If you do not have a thermal fuse designed for a specific ironing temperature at hand, you can temporarily restore the old, burnt-out part using pliers. To do this, you need to clamp the tubular body and the wire that is inside it, thereby achieving contact between them.

This is a risky solution, but it is suitable as a temporary measure. In the event of continuous heating of the iron, the heater may burn out, which will be much more expensive. A piece of nichrome wire or another fuse rated for 10 Amperes of current can also serve as a temporary measure. Some irons have double overheating protection.

Step 10: Reassembling the Device

Before reassembling the iron, it is necessary to clean up all the dirt and scale that have formed there. For this, any chemical reagents, for example, citric acid, are suitable. You can also limit yourself to only mechanical cleaning of the inner part of the sole plate of the iron if it is not heavily soiled.

Also, before assembling the body, check the operation of the device's circuits using a multimeter or a light bulb. Then, connect to the network and check the operation of the relay for turning on the heating of the sole plate of the iron. If the relay operates normal, and the heater turns on and off on time, the body of the device can be completely assembled.

In addition to such malfunctions, there may be others hidden. In this case, you need to make sure several times that the iron holds the temperature well and turns off in time. In this situation, you need to look for a defect in the electronic control board or in the temperature sensor of the board, and also check the heater for malfunctions.

Step 11: Cleaning the Iron

As part of the maintenance process, you can also clean the iron from scale. If the iron has a steam generator, then it can be cleaned using ready-made purchased chemical agents or using citric acid or vinegar. After descaling, the iron will not leave stains when ironing fabrics. There are also means for cleaning the sole plate, for example, a special cleaning pencil. And for filling the steamer, it is better to use distilled water. Thus, the iron will last a long time without scale formation.

In this repair, the most difficult thing, in addition to finding the breakdown, was disassembling the plastic parts of the iron. It requires accuracy and patience.

Step 12: Test & Conclusion

In this repair, the most difficult thing, in addition to finding the breakdown, was disassembling the plastic parts of the iron. It requires accuracy and patience.

My opinion is that the simpler the device, the longer it works. But progress does not stand still, so over time, new materials and technologies appear that change not only the final devices but also the approach to their repair. Not to mention the fact that marketing when creating such devices is aimed at disposability, not repairability.

Global climate change and other events in our world will lead to the fact that we will have to, and already have to, make devices more repairable and take care of our resources.

I hope that my little experience in repairing an iron will be useful to someone or will push them to independently repair everyday things.

Thanks for your time and attention to this topic! 🌼