Introduction: Shadow Phaser | Battle-ready Sci-Fi SMG | Knex | (Instructions)

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About: Coming up with a new pistol soon... Stay tuned.

Battle-ready. This was the one word I had in mind while designing this masterpiece. It was made for a battle me and my brother had organized. Performance was the main feature to be implemented on the Shadow Phaser, and it turned out very good. A sci-fi SMG, it has a hidden magazine just in front of the expanded trigger guard that fits the futuristic theme of the gun. It has a very comfortable grip and astounding firing pin performance, due to the built in firing pin guide. This provides unbeatable coherence and toughness, giving a splitting crack on the bullet. It has amazing accuracy and speed, considering it's looks and other people's guns. Most of all, it is tried and true; proven tough under challenging situations. Even having required constant whipping around, and quick 'scopes', it remained as it was, the Shadow Phaser.

This is the best project I have worked on, with multiple benefits I will soon list. It's makeup is very intricate, with many new features compared to other guns. Though it involves many broken pieces, it's totally worth it when looking at the end product. The Shadow Phaser enhances it's curves around the handle and stock area, creating an extremely aesthetic visual. It also has little 'clips', one way connectors placed on the upper blue rods at the top of the gun, which can be removed to place rubber bands. Alright here we go:


  • Firing pin is extremely stable and smooth to retract
  • Pin guide supports firing pin, and hides it very well
  • Hidden magazine directly in front of the trigger guard
  • Extreme performance
  • Aesthetic handle curves
  • Appropriate sights
  • A comfortable grip and foregrip
  • Expanded trigger guard to match the sci-fi style
  • Small and easy to maneuver
  • Can fit a good amount of THICK rubber bands (around 9-10)


That's only the main ones. I will leave you to find out the rest of the benefits by building this. I do need you to throw out some ideas about future gun concepts, both the model and the knex layout and cover design. Feel free to comment these things on this project.

Check ALL notes in the supplies section and all steps, since they are important for the building of this gun. (Notes will be in bold)


Note: The battle mentioned was conducted with the Shadow Phaser, only with upgrades such that degrades aesthetics, so not included in this instuctable. One of these was the thinning of the stock to core connective, allowing rubber bands to be placed on the firing pin at it's level. It also had the front roof internals completely removed, so enhancing the performance by removing all excessive friction and boundaries on the bullet.

Supplies

Alright, now we're onto the good stuff. All pieces have photos of themselves. The problem is it requires an excessive amount of broken pieces. You will need to modify connectors and rods with pliers, clipping the teeth off of connectors, and clipping the sides of the rods. All broken pieces are necessary for the performance and function of this gun. Once sorted, you might be looking through the remains of what little you have of KNEX, wondering what to do. I will now lead you to a great website which supplies bulk pieces, all individually available. K'NEX website here

By the way only 724 pieces. Nice and compact.


Total: 724


Connectors: (199)

  • 1-way: 30
  • 2-way (45°): 16
  • 2-way (180°): 14
  • 3-way: 18
  • 4-way: 21
  • 5-way: 78
  • 8-way: 22


Rods: (385)

  • 16mm: 285
  • 32mm: 62
  • 54mm: 25
  • 86mm: 7
  • 128mm: 5
  • 190mm (Reinforced): 1


Flexi Rods: (3)

  • 54mm: 2
  • 190mm: 1


Miscellaneous: (82)

  • Interlocking Clip: 8
  • Metallic Clip: 14
  • Y-Clip/Rod-End Clip: 29
  • Socket: 2
  • Rod Cap: 6
  • Blue Washer: 14
  • Gray Washer: 4
  • Hinge: 4
  • Clip 3D Angled End: 1


Modified: (41)

Connectors: (27)

  • 1-way: 2
  • 2-way (180°): 4
  • 3-way: 1
  • 3-way: 1
  • 4-way: 1
  • 4-way: 7
  • 4-way: 2
  • 5-way: 1
  • 5-way: 1
  • 5-way: 3
  • 8-way: 2
  • 8-way: 2


Rods: (9)

  • 3-space: 8
  • 5-space: 1


Miscellaneous: (5)

  • Y-Clip/Rod-End Clip: 2
  • Rod-End: 3


Extras: (14)


Rubber Band (Small): 13

Rubber Band (Big): 1 (This wind around the firing pin tightly)

Tape: Once around firing pin, around 6 inches, and then another around trigger, around 5 inches


Note: Don't overlook taping things like I used to, since this is snatching away the essence of the Shadow Phaser, performance. You will need to tape the firing pin, around 6 inches for 8-10 rubber bands, or longer for more rubber bands. The trigger will also need attention, because the more rubber bands you put on the firing pin, the more tape you will need on the trigger. When taping anything, do it as TIGHT as possible. This will help the tape to work better, if you like.

Step 1: Core

Ahh, now we start building. Well in this step we will construct the 'base' and the inner plates known as the 'core'. The internals refers to the pieces on the middle of the gun, and those relating to the second and fourth layers. We'll make the trigger and internals as well.

Internals, by the way, comprises of the barrel of the gun, where the firing pin lies. All mechanisms are included as well, most importantly of which is the trigger. In the Shadow Phaser, it is necessary to have a block trigger like this one, because of the power possessed by the firing pin.

I recommend never using any other trigger when performance is the priority, since they will be much more liable to break or just harder to pull. I also recommend never using fragile internals unless you have had considerable experience in the art.

Just to clarify, a block trigger is one with a simple blocker facing vertical, and when the trigger is pulled, the blocker comes down as well. Anything fancy usually won't work.



Note: Taping the trigger is vital for stability of the firing pin. If too many rubber bands are used without any tape, all you can expect is to have a broken piece shooting mess. Don't do a slack job, or else it just won't fit inside the gun!

Step 2: Stock

Here is where the pin guide lies, the plumbline of peak performance and elegance. The stock also comprises of a few nice curves made out of neon-style flexi rods to give it some a dash of the future. Quite a small step really.



Note: If you have not paid attention to the pin guide pieces that are in the core of the gun, don't even bother to continue. Unless you are willing to part with the two pieces, this gun will not work. Do not replace these (the modified 4-way and 8-way) with a 2-way and 5-way facing downwards. Although it looks easier, the firing pin, once retracted, will be pulled down with the trigger blocker, since there is a 'bottomless space' under it. The reason for broken pieces is to provide the stability needed to just use the gun.

Step 3: Covers

Now all you have to do here is just to build a duplicate of the base and core we talked about in Step 1. Now it is usable and almost ready to go. We just have to polish it up a bit, because you can see all the nasty broken internals...

Step 4: Extras

Time to spruce it up! We'll give it some characteristic with a bunch of shells, covers and stuff.

The ram will also have to be built. I recommend using the weird broken 5-way connector as the head of the ram, since this fits quite well in the magazine. It is also flat, so bullets will be shot out horizontally, and the internals will not get clogged. By the way you can use 32mm rods, but I recommend using 1-way connectors as ammunition, with nothing attached to it.

We also make the emblem of prestige, the firing pin! Pay attention to the pictures carefully, you need to get it right the first time. Get a big rubber band, and wrap it around the firing pin after taping the 5-way to the rod. Don't forget to include the 2 blue washers on it! These help to 'absorb' the shock so that it does not impact the rubber band wound around the firing pin.



Note: A reinforced rod (190mm) will be needed as the firing pin, to give extra stability. When making powerful guns, never use a standard rod. This can result in the firing pin bending when too many rubber bands are present or them being misplaced.

Step 5: FINISHED

There it is! The Shadow Phaser! Probably the best gun I have ever designed, especially when taking the performance factor into consideration!

Go ahead and favorite this, share it with friends, and comment down below! I need some suggestions of what guns to build next, for example AK-47 or another concept gun designed by me. Maybe a sniper or a bullpup... I'm looking forward to your suggestions! I always check instructables, so don't just leave it!

Cheers