Introduction: Stock Bed
This is a twin bed with medieval pillory stocks as the head board. I built this primarily as a screener for company. Anyone who would find it as cool as I do would be more inclined to understand my dark sense of humor and unapologetic love of all things unorthodox.
First, I used Google Sketchup to design the bed. This is a free and simple program that every DIYselfer should know and be familiar with.
The model is pictured, as well as the finished project.
First, I used Google Sketchup to design the bed. This is a free and simple program that every DIYselfer should know and be familiar with.
The model is pictured, as well as the finished project.
Step 1: Materials
Any bed is simply a frame for a mattress. Like most beds, this one consists of a detachable headboard, foot board, side runners, and support beams. The design is easily scalable for longer mattress types or wider (though wider might require and additional support beam running down the center.
Head board
Posts 4x4" by 4' long x 2
Crossbeam 4x4" by 37" long
Back board 1x6" by 3'1.5" x 3
Foot board
Posts 4x4 by 3' long x 2
Crossbeam 4x4" by 37" long
Runners
2x6" 77" long
2x2" 5'6" long
Cross Supports
1x6" 41" long x 6
Plywood (if you don't have a box spring) 41x76"
Hardware
"L" steel brackets x 4
Screw Bolts for steel brachets x 16
Steel support plate x 4
Wood screws for support plate
2.5" #14 wood screws x 12
Stylized support hardware for bottom 1x6 on headboard (your choice)
Stylized fastening hardware for adjustable headboard (stock portion)
Ring Rope fastener of choice (optional)
Copper post caps for 4x4 posts (optional)
Mattress
Mattress of your choice.
Mine was from an Ikea bed that I was replacing (rough play broke the support beams and finally the side rails). It measured 75" x 39"
Finish
Stain of choice
Polyurethane lacquer or other protective coating.
Paint thinner
Tools
(These are the ones I had at my disposal, but a rougher version can be made with simpler tools.
Table Saw
Router
Skill Saw
Compressor driven bolt driver
Drill with various bits
Belt Sander
Palm Sander
Appropriate sandpaper
Paint Brush
Rags
Head board
Posts 4x4" by 4' long x 2
Crossbeam 4x4" by 37" long
Back board 1x6" by 3'1.5" x 3
Foot board
Posts 4x4 by 3' long x 2
Crossbeam 4x4" by 37" long
Runners
2x6" 77" long
2x2" 5'6" long
Cross Supports
1x6" 41" long x 6
Plywood (if you don't have a box spring) 41x76"
Hardware
"L" steel brackets x 4
Screw Bolts for steel brachets x 16
Steel support plate x 4
Wood screws for support plate
2.5" #14 wood screws x 12
Stylized support hardware for bottom 1x6 on headboard (your choice)
Stylized fastening hardware for adjustable headboard (stock portion)
Ring Rope fastener of choice (optional)
Copper post caps for 4x4 posts (optional)
Mattress
Mattress of your choice.
Mine was from an Ikea bed that I was replacing (rough play broke the support beams and finally the side rails). It measured 75" x 39"
Finish
Stain of choice
Polyurethane lacquer or other protective coating.
Paint thinner
Tools
(These are the ones I had at my disposal, but a rougher version can be made with simpler tools.
Table Saw
Router
Skill Saw
Compressor driven bolt driver
Drill with various bits
Belt Sander
Palm Sander
Appropriate sandpaper
Paint Brush
Rags
Step 2: Cutting
Now we cut all the parts to size.
This might take some adjustment depending on the mattress you chose and the tools at hand.
I used a table saw to cut the pieces to length.
The most difficult part is cutting the grooves for the stock headboard. I used a table saw to create a 1 inch deep 1.5 inch wide groove. The headboard will still need to be sanded in order to get a 2x6 to fit. (A 2x6 is actually 1.5x5.5 as we've moved away from"true lumber").
I would have preferred 1.5" deep, but our table saw only had a blade for 1".
Now that everything is cut, we need to sand it to taste.
This might take some adjustment depending on the mattress you chose and the tools at hand.
I used a table saw to cut the pieces to length.
The most difficult part is cutting the grooves for the stock headboard. I used a table saw to create a 1 inch deep 1.5 inch wide groove. The headboard will still need to be sanded in order to get a 2x6 to fit. (A 2x6 is actually 1.5x5.5 as we've moved away from"true lumber").
I would have preferred 1.5" deep, but our table saw only had a blade for 1".
Now that everything is cut, we need to sand it to taste.
Step 3: Cutting 2
Now we cut the holes that give the headboard character.
I put two 2x6's together and used a compass to mark the holes.
The neck is 18" in circumference, allowing for the addition of padding and leather later.
The wrists are 4" diameter, also allowing for padding and leather later.
The neck and wrist holes need to be measured for accuracy. It's easy to accidentally cut at an angle when using free handed tools.
The stock boards must also be fitted to the grooves in length as well as width. We used a belt sander in order to get the 1.5" thick boards to fit comfortably into the 1.5" grooves. The bottom board is for support and so, can be a tighter fit. The two others must be able to move freely in order to accommodate various height-ed 'guests'.
I put two 2x6's together and used a compass to mark the holes.
The neck is 18" in circumference, allowing for the addition of padding and leather later.
The wrists are 4" diameter, also allowing for padding and leather later.
The neck and wrist holes need to be measured for accuracy. It's easy to accidentally cut at an angle when using free handed tools.
The stock boards must also be fitted to the grooves in length as well as width. We used a belt sander in order to get the 1.5" thick boards to fit comfortably into the 1.5" grooves. The bottom board is for support and so, can be a tighter fit. The two others must be able to move freely in order to accommodate various height-ed 'guests'.
Step 4: Drill Prep
In order to stop the boards from splitting, all the holes need to be pre-drilled.
The runners, 1x6's, (not shown) need to have the support piece (2x2's) attached. Center and pre-drill holes for the #14 screws every foot.
Line up the brackets and cross-beams and drill for the bolts.
The runners, 1x6's, (not shown) need to have the support piece (2x2's) attached. Center and pre-drill holes for the #14 screws every foot.
Line up the brackets and cross-beams and drill for the bolts.
Step 5: Stain and Lacquor
Now everything is mostly cut and fitted.
Using your stain of choice, stain all parts and let dry.
I used one coat, but use as many as necessary to obtain the desired darkness.
Once dry, lacquer everything in order to protect if for day to day use.
Use as many coats as necessary. (I used four).
Using your stain of choice, stain all parts and let dry.
I used one coat, but use as many as necessary to obtain the desired darkness.
Once dry, lacquer everything in order to protect if for day to day use.
Use as many coats as necessary. (I used four).
Step 6: Final Assembly
This step is mostly just attaching hardware that was previously fitted.
I started with the L-brackets bolted into place.
Add the first headboard.
Measure from the top of one head-post to the bottom of the other.
Adjust so that the measurements are equal (the headboard is square).
Screw in the first headboard from behind using two 3" #14 woodscrews.
Make sure to pre-drill so that you don't split anything with the large gauge screws.
Attach the steel support plates to the back of the headboard.
This supports the crossbeam and makes sure everything stays flush.
Line up and attach the bed rail hangers.
For this, I actually placed the runner flush with the post and marked out where the hardware should be set. (This part is crucial, you won't be able to re-drill if you're off slightly.)
Here, I cut and added 2x4's 40.5" long as support. This also helps make the bed square, but measure to make sure.
Add plywood sheet on top of the 2x4's (not pictured) to support the mattress.
Add mattress.
I started with the L-brackets bolted into place.
Add the first headboard.
Measure from the top of one head-post to the bottom of the other.
Adjust so that the measurements are equal (the headboard is square).
Screw in the first headboard from behind using two 3" #14 woodscrews.
Make sure to pre-drill so that you don't split anything with the large gauge screws.
Attach the steel support plates to the back of the headboard.
This supports the crossbeam and makes sure everything stays flush.
Line up and attach the bed rail hangers.
For this, I actually placed the runner flush with the post and marked out where the hardware should be set. (This part is crucial, you won't be able to re-drill if you're off slightly.)
Here, I cut and added 2x4's 40.5" long as support. This also helps make the bed square, but measure to make sure.
Add plywood sheet on top of the 2x4's (not pictured) to support the mattress.
Add mattress.
Step 7: Upgrade
I added hitch rings to the foot posts.
In the future, I plan to pad and upholster the headboard holes with soft leather.
In the future, I plan to pad and upholster the headboard holes with soft leather.
Step 8: Underbed Storage
I didn't chronicle this part, as I forgot to take pictures. Basically, they are three rolling boxes with faceplates and drawer-pulls.
They still need to be stained, but that's a low priority at this point.
They still need to be stained, but that's a low priority at this point.
