Stock Bed




Introduction: Stock Bed

This is a twin bed with medieval pillory stocks as the head board. I built this primarily as a screener for company. Anyone who would find it as cool as I do would be more inclined to understand my dark sense of humor and unapologetic love of all things unorthodox.

First, I used Google Sketchup to design the bed. This is a free and simple program that every DIYselfer should know and be familiar with.

The model is pictured, as well as the finished project.

Step 1: Materials

Any bed is simply a frame for a mattress. Like most beds, this one consists of a detachable headboard, foot board, side runners, and support beams. The design is easily scalable for longer mattress types or wider (though wider might require and additional support beam running down the center.

Head board
Posts 4x4" by 4' long x 2
Crossbeam 4x4" by 37" long
Back board 1x6" by 3'1.5" x 3

Foot board
Posts 4x4 by 3' long x 2
Crossbeam 4x4" by 37" long

2x6" 77" long
2x2" 5'6" long

Cross Supports
1x6" 41" long x 6
Plywood (if you don't have a box spring) 41x76"

"L" steel brackets x 4
Screw Bolts for steel brachets x 16
Steel support plate x 4
Wood screws for support plate
2.5" #14 wood screws x 12
Stylized support hardware for bottom 1x6 on headboard (your choice)
Stylized fastening hardware for adjustable headboard (stock portion)
Ring Rope fastener of choice (optional)
Copper post caps for 4x4 posts (optional)

Mattress of your choice.
Mine was from an Ikea bed that I was replacing (rough play broke the support beams and finally the side rails). It measured 75" x 39"

Stain of choice
Polyurethane lacquer or other protective coating.
Paint thinner

(These are the ones I had at my disposal, but a rougher version can be made with simpler tools.
Table Saw
Skill Saw
Compressor driven bolt driver
Drill with various bits
Belt Sander
Palm Sander
Appropriate sandpaper
Paint Brush

Step 2: Cutting

Now we cut all the parts to size.
This might take some adjustment depending on the mattress you chose and the tools at hand.

I used a table saw to cut the pieces to length.

The most difficult part is cutting the grooves for the stock headboard. I used a table saw to create a 1 inch deep 1.5 inch wide groove. The headboard will still need to be sanded in order to get a 2x6 to fit. (A 2x6 is actually 1.5x5.5 as we've moved away from"true lumber").

I would have preferred 1.5" deep, but our table saw only had a blade for 1".

Now that everything is cut, we need to sand it to taste.

Step 3: Cutting 2

Now we cut the holes that give the headboard character.
I put two 2x6's together and used a compass to mark the holes.
The neck is 18" in circumference, allowing for the addition of padding and leather later.
The wrists are 4" diameter, also allowing for padding and leather later.

The neck and wrist holes need to be measured for accuracy. It's easy to accidentally cut at an angle when using free handed tools.

The stock boards must also be fitted to the grooves in length as well as width. We used a belt sander in order to get the 1.5" thick boards to fit comfortably into the 1.5" grooves. The bottom board is for support and so, can be a tighter fit. The two others must be able to move freely in order to accommodate various height-ed 'guests'.

Step 4: Drill Prep

In order to stop the boards from splitting, all the holes need to be pre-drilled.

The runners, 1x6's, (not shown) need to have the support piece (2x2's) attached. Center and pre-drill holes for the #14 screws every foot.

Line up the brackets and cross-beams and drill for the bolts.

Step 5: Stain and Lacquor

Now everything is mostly cut and fitted.
Using your stain of choice, stain all parts and let dry.
I used one coat, but use as many as necessary to obtain the desired darkness.

Once dry, lacquer everything in order to protect if for day to day use.
Use as many coats as necessary. (I used four).

Step 6: Final Assembly

This step is mostly just attaching hardware that was previously fitted.
I started with the L-brackets bolted into place.

Add the first headboard.

Measure from the top of one head-post to the bottom of the other.
Adjust so that the measurements are equal (the headboard is square).

Screw in the first headboard from behind using two 3" #14 woodscrews.
Make sure to pre-drill so that you don't split anything with the large gauge screws.

Attach the steel support plates to the back of the headboard.
This supports the crossbeam and makes sure everything stays flush.

Line up and attach the bed rail hangers.
For this, I actually placed the runner flush with the post and marked out where the hardware should be set. (This part is crucial, you won't be able to re-drill if you're off slightly.)

Here, I cut and added 2x4's 40.5" long as support. This also helps make the bed square, but measure to make sure.

Add plywood sheet on top of the 2x4's (not pictured) to support the mattress.
Add mattress.

Step 7: Upgrade

I added hitch rings to the foot posts.

In the future, I plan to pad and upholster the headboard holes with soft leather.

Step 8: Underbed Storage

I didn't chronicle this part, as I forgot to take pictures. Basically, they are three rolling boxes with faceplates and drawer-pulls.

They still need to be stained, but that's a low priority at this point.

Be the First to Share


    • For the Home Contest

      For the Home Contest
    • Make It Bridge

      Make It Bridge
    • Game Design: Student Design Challenge

      Game Design: Student Design Challenge



    7 years ago

    Sense of humor my foot, I know a kindred spirit when I see one; I found this by searching for bed pillory stocks plans myself. Any chance I can please get the sketchup file from you? I want to do this as a king with the stocks as the footboard.

    Any time you are trying to be "Guy Incognito" just place the top board on the bottom (half holes down), then put the spacer board above it and on top the bottom board (half holes up) and it will look like modest shaping of the boards for a unique look instead of plain straight boards....

    I love the storage setup, and was actually thinking about doing something similar, now that I have seen yours I will definitely place my bed up high and have roll out "drawers." I prefer that idea to drawers built into the frame because the frame between the drawers will have to be built up and that will add weight and any bed I build will probably be hauled to Alaska this summer so lighter and easier to disassemble is better....

    Good build, thanks.


    9 years ago on Step 8

    May I ask where you got your wheels/rollers, I am making a similar project and wanted to go with a drawer system like yours


    Reply 9 years ago on Step 8

    Because the drawers were three feet long and used to store heavy... stuff, I opted for building what are essentially boxes on wheels. Each was guided by wood dividers, but were generally free rolling on casters from home depot.

    If I were to do it again, I might pursue heavy duty drawer tracks.

    ~ j


    9 years ago on Introduction

    I like the deep drawers. Generally, they are only half the depth. No wasted space here. Are your drawers on casters?

    If you have guests, a possible way to make the headboard "discrete" is to create a leather cover that slips over it and it gives the look of a padded headboard. Plus it will do double duty: if you just want to read a book and sit up against the headboard.


    I like this but I think it would be even better to build a removable pillory into the foot of the bed and pop it in as needed. Also makes for more discretion, no company or kids have to ever see it. And then you can also have the head of the bed up against a wall as well where most beds are oriented. Also, if built into the foot of the bed the object of your desire can either kneel on the mattress while being in the pillory or stand on the outside of the bed while in it if you allow for the height that would be needed.


    Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

    I really like this idea. Maybe on the next build, which I imagine will include the appropriate amount of welding.


    14 years ago on Introduction

    I like the look of it but some people might think this is kinda kinky to have in your bedroom...


    Reply 12 years ago on Introduction

    If you're going to have kinky stuff around, the dungeon and the bedroom are generally the best place for them. ;)

    Of course; there's kinky stuff in every room of our house.


    Reply 13 years ago on Introduction

    sticks and stones might break my bones but whips and chains excite me


    10 years ago on Introduction

    Wow! I want this! However, I agree - it would be convenient if it were removable or concealable in some fashion and reversed to the foot. All four posters could have hooks as well in them at various levels. If I didn't have children at home, I couldn't care less what it looked like - but...


    13 years ago on Introduction

    Very nice and the wife thinks so as well ;)  As I have an abundance of 2x4 and 2x6, do you think the gluing to make the 4x4 would still give the strength necessary for this design?


    Reply 13 years ago on Introduction

    I think that would work if you threw in some long screws. I'd be concerned about squeaking. Mine is generally pretty quiet but can wake the dead when it's *ahem* in full use.

    If you're thinking about building such a headboard, my friend build some free standing pillory stocks using a unique sliding system for the locking board. I'll see if I can grab some pics of his model - it uses a metal bracket fitted into a groove in the bedpost rather than trying to route a groove for the entire 3/4 in board.

    You mentioned adding leather and padding. Please post pics once you get it upholstered!