Whimsical Rainbow Fashion Playsuit

Hi everybody! and welcome to yet another of my Instructables post, this time we are stepping out of our kitchen and into our craft room to make this incredible whimisical rainbow fashion playsuit. If you have been fashion focused, you do know how fun and fashionable playsuits these days for women. From cute and dollish, that are so great for beach and casual wear, to the haute ones that are perfect for a date night out with your partner or a girl's night out. For this design, I am combining my love for bright pastel rainbow color schemes and a few extra bedazzlements to bring out the glam!

And Fyi, I am not a seamstress but that won't stop me or any beginner to take our sewing machines out and once in a while create our own diy apparel. Who knows your body more than you do? So let's have fun and take some shortcuts to create this cute little piece!

Step 1: Rainbow Inspiration

For this rainbow project, I was inspired by a real rainbow, yes the kind that you will spot during or after some late afternoon showers. Even though we all know that there are seven colors of the rainbow, most of the time when we do spot one, it's usually a bright iridescent shade of pinkish red, pastel yellow and the blues has mixed with the greens to create this pastel teal layer. For some reason my eyes have a hard time spotting the indigo and violet layer.

So when I found this pastel rainbow fabric in Joann's, I knew it was the one! This polyester nylon blend fabric has a pastel pink, teal and yellow stripes. But what is interesting about it is that is has this little bits of shiny specks on it. I don't know what it is, it looks like glitter but it doesn't flake. It feels exactly like snake skin. It has that smooth texture and an incredible sheen. The camera do not do any justice but when you move the fabric around against a light, it reflect different shades of iridescent blue, green and bits of purple. Just beautiful!

Also, I added another layer to bring out the whimsical part of this playsuit. I got some tulle that has gold glitter specks and pearls sewn unto it. It reminds me of how light bounces of the clouds and how happy and ethereal rainbows are! Nothing says whimsy and softness like tulle!

Step 2: Inspo

For this playsuit, I definitely wanted one that is a little sexy, one that bears a little more skin. Drooping sleeves, a cropped bustier and shorts that end right by the butt cheeks.

Take note, this design is meant for my body shape. You can adjust it according to your own specifications. But for ease and referencing, these are my specifications:

Height: 5'1 inches (157cm tall)

Weight: 120lbs (54kg)

Dress size: Size 6

Top size: Size S/M (depending on the cut)

Bottom size: US size M

Body type: Average, Rectangular, Athletic torso yet rounded bottom (thanks motherhood!)

Bust size: AA Cup (that's smaller than an A cup, but for ease I just use A cup measurements and stuffed a push up padding insert)

My measurements:

Waist circumference: 36 inches (18 inch radius)

Buttock circumference: 38 inches

Hip circumference: 38 inches

Side torso to waist: 6 inches

Waist to crotch: 10 inches

Back to waist: 4.5 inches (for back panel)

Length/Radius per bust: 8 inches

Height of bust: 5.5 inches

Thigh circumference: 24 inches (12 inch radius)

Hip to buttock length: 12.5 inches

Step 3: Create You Shorts Pattern

You will need:

One pair of High-waisted short, shorts

Tracing paper (I used $1 brown paper because it's cheaper)

Pencil

Measuring Tape

Directions:

Lay out a sheet of brown paper. Fold your shorts by following the seams sewn on the hip and crotch sides. Depending on the fabric of your shorts you are tracing from, you might need to give it a little 'give' by to two inches. This ensures a proper fit and not accidentally making your shorts too tight.

Trace the seams and outline of your shorts to the brown paper. Keep you lines clean and straight as possible.

Step 4:

Then connect the dots and draw an outline until you have a defined shape.

Next, draw another outline 1/4 of an inch from the main outline. This is your seam allowance. Draw your seam allowance all around the pattern.

Then using a scissor, cut along the seam allowance.

REPEAT by tracing the back part of your shorts unto the brown paper.

You will notice that the buttock panel is slightly larger and the crotch area longer than the front panel. This is because you have to make room for your butt and the area under your butt cheeks to connect to the crotch area. This will ensure your shorts don't ride up all crazy when you sit down.

I also decide to add another 2 inches to the front because I prefer my playsuit's shorts to have a little give rather than it being super clingy.

Trace, outline and cut.

Step 5: Making the 1st Torso Centre Panel

1) I started out by measuring 7 inches down from the middle of my breast bone. This leads directly to the center of my waist line.

2) Once I found the center of my waistline, I measured 3 inches to the left AND the right. So the total length of this bottom part is 6 inches. You should have an inverted T by now.

3) Next is the underbust. To find it, I measured 2.7 inches from the top (of the inverted T). Draw a faint line horizontally across. This will indicate your underbust line.

4)To find the angle that leads the end of bottom torso panel to the center of the cup, measure from the center of your breastbone all the way to your nipple. Mine happens to be 4 inches across per side.

5) Make a mark on your underbust line on the 4 inch mark. Then connect the end of your bottom panel to the 4 inch mark. It should be about a 100' degree angle upwards. Do the same of the other side.

6) Using a bra insert as a guide, roughly gauge where your breast and cup is suppose to be. Because my bosoms and inserts are really small, they are placed further away, so when worn, it could push and create a cleavage (if there's any lol)

7) Trace the underside of the insert to create your scoop.

8) Repeat on the other under side of the breast.

9) Remember to give your pattern a 1/4 inch allowance before cutting.

Step 6: Complete the Backing of Your Bustier

1) Once you've completed the sides of your bustier, measure 8.25 inches from the side panel.

2) The height of your back panel should be the same height as the end of your side panel.

3) Then draw a line gradually sloping down diagonally to create a slope.

4) The end wear the zipper will be 4.5 inches in height. Draw a 1/4 seam allowance around your design and cut accordingly.

5) Repeat for the other side of the panel, remember it the pattern has to be inverted.

Step 7: Your Patterns

You should have your front short panel, back short panel, front bustier panel, side bustier panel and back panel.

Step 8: Things You'll Need & Tracing

Things you'll need:

1 yard of satin polyester lining (i used a muted pastel pink color)

1 yard of metallic fashion polyester fabric in Rainbow stripes

2 yards of fashion pearl & glitter tulle

1 roll of metallic off-white cotton thread

Sewing chalk pencil

Directions:

1) Begin tracing your patterns unto the muted underside of your lining fabric.

2) Trace all your panels for your bustier. Remember to flip your panel if you are doing the other side of the bodice.

Step 9:

Once you completed tracing all of your patterns, cut them out using a sharp sewing and craft scissor.

After cutting, lay out all your cut fabric so you will be able to visualize your patterns better.

Repeat tracing and cutting for the shorts and lay them down so you can visualize the front and back panel.

Step 10: Repeat for the Stripe Fabric

Similar to the lining, we are also going to trace and cut the fabric similar to the earlier steps.

Be mindful that for the rainbow stripes fabric, we are going to make sure that all panels have a vertical stripes. So unlike the lining fabric, we aren't able to squeeze the patterns and save space.

Also, to make the bodice seem like one consistent fabric, we have to make sure that the color coordinate with the next color. So it goes pink, blue then yellow, so the next panel would start with pink again.

Step 11:

Repeat the same steps for your shorts. Remember to color coordinate and ensure the stripes are going vertically, not horizontal or diagonally.

Step 12: For the Bra Cups

Things you'll need:

Demi cup bra insert, push up if necessary*

Directions:

To lined the bra cups, I simply cut a large piece of lining fabric in an Eye shape, tall and wide enough so that when I decide to fold it to mold nicely, it has ample amount of fabric left to cover the sides of the cup.

Repeat the same step for the rainbow fabric.

Then gently fold a little hidden triangle underneath to mold the fabric nicely.

Step 13: Repeat Tracing on Tulle Fabric

Repeat the same tracing and cutting with the tulle fabric.

If you come across a pearl that is directly in your way, you can gently cut around it or snip the pearl off.

Step 14: Lay Your Fabric Accordingly

Lay your pieces of cut patterns accordingly and match them with their same counterparts. Lining goes on the bottom (inside), the the rainbow fabric (in between) and lastly your tulle at the top (outermost layer).

To keep things neat, I like to group them together in between a soft sheet of paper or wax paper so as to not get confused later on.

Step 15: Pinning & Sewing

I shall begin by doing the shorts first.

(My apologies if some of this pictures are upside down, currently the website is being buggy)

1) Lay your patterns accordingly, left side and the right side. With the lining facing you, pin 1/4 of the seam.

2) Using a pinhead, pin the end seams down so they remain flat and unmoving.

3) Thread your machine according to the manufacturer's instructions. Remember to check and wind your bobbin too.

4) Begin sewing the top of pinned seams using the back-stitch mode. Sew all the way to the end.

Step 16: Secure Ends, Trim and Sew Side Seams.

1) Ensure that you secure all ends of your thread before proceeding to the next step.

2) Trim any rough edges or flyaway threads. Be careful not to accidentally cut into your stitches.

3) Repeat sewing the bottom seams on the front/back of the pants.

4) Once you sewed all the bottom ends on the front and back side, sew the side seams (where the hips are).

Step 17: Sew the Crotch Area.

1) Once you have sewn both your side seams on your left and ride sides of your shorts, it's time to sew the crotch area.

2) Flip your shorts so that the crotch are facing each other. Pin one side of the crotch and pin them together.

3) Sew using a criss-cross stitch and back stitch.

4) Repeat on the other side as well.

Step 18: Sew the Front and Crotch Together.

With the ugly side facing outwards, begin sewing the open front seam all the way down the crotch and about 2 itches from the back.

Leave a gap at the back, so the future sipper can be sewn later on.

Step 19:

Here is a little peek of your somewhat-done shorts. I think it already looks great on it's own and be really cute if paired with a pretty summer top ;)

But let's continue..

Step 20: Sewing Your Bustier

1) To start off, I like to pin down the cushion so the slippery fabric doesn't slide away easily.

2) Then arrange your panels accordingly and sew along the seams.

3)For the bustier, I like to sew the stitches twice, 1/4 inch apart form each other, it give's a finished look.

4) Sew and connect all the side seams together until your bustier is connected from one end to another. DO NOT sew the the bottom and top seams just yet.

Step 21: Sewing Your Bustier's Cup

1) Begin molding your cut fabric unto your demi cup inserts.

2) To start, pin the top curve first, this way you are able to stretch your fabric a little.

3) Go around pinning and once you reach the bottom cup, fold an inward triangle so that it can be curved and rounded off.

4) Pin the little dart when it's folded so it doesn't move around. And continue pinning the sides.

5) Sew the fabric unto the edges of your bra insert.

6) Repeat steps with your tulle fabric on top.

7) Repeat the whole process on the next bra insert for the other side.

Step 22: Connect Your Inserts to Your Bustier

1) Begin pinning your bustier over your bra insert. If there's any excess fabric, trim it off little by little. Ensure the curve match nicely with your bra cup.

2) Sew two back stitches, 1/4 inch away from each other, to connect both bra cup and bustier together.

3) Secure and trim excess thread.

Step 23:

4) Repeat the same step for the other side.

Step 24: Fit & Adjust. Connect Bustier to Shorts.

After trying this on, I realized that my bustier is loose and had too much air pockets. So I decided to trim of about 2 inches form each back panel, so that it fits my torso nicely.

1)With the wrong side facing out, we are going to start pinning and connecting the shorts and bustier.

2)Start at the very end and pin around the waist area until you reached the other end.

Step 25:

Once you've pinned and sewn all around the waist area, pin the edges of your shorts. We are going to secure the edges before placing the invisible zipper.

Step 26:

Things you'll need:

12 inch Invisible zipper in off white (or color of your choice)

Directions:

1) Open you zipper up and connect one side of the zipper on the underside of the suit. Because this is an invisible zipper, ensure you get right to the edges of the zipper.

2) Sew your zipper all the way down to the end.

3) Repeat on the other side of the zipper.

4) Once done, zip them up!

Step 27: Sweet, Simple Sleeves.

Things you'll need:

A roll of 1/4 inch stretch bands.

Directions:

1) Begin cutting a 19inch square on a single layer of Tulle.

2) Sew the top and bottom edges of you tulle with a simple back stitch.

3) Cut 7 inch of your thin stretch bands.

4) Sew your stretch band over the edge of your sewn tulle. After one inch of sewing, stretch your band so that it sews while it's stretching. Sew until you reach the end of your tulle.

5) Secure thread and repeat the same for the wrist.

6) Repeat steps for the other side of your sleeve.

Step 28: Your Sleeves Are Done!

Above are some ways I can wear my sleeves, all the way down my wrist or tuck them around my elbows. Either way works!

And the reason why I don't connect my sleeves to my top (like most off shoulder tops do), is because if you have worn those off shoulder tops/dresses, you KNOW how impossible it is to move your arms! Even doing you hair up becomes impossible. At least, this way my arms are still able to move around freely.

So that is it everyone! Hope you enjoy my quick tutorial of how I made this happy rainbow playsuit ;)