We all know how awesome Llve Edge Furniture looks. Sadly, everything comes at a cost, and since I make a lot of stuff, I need to watch my budget. Though this may not be a true live edge, with a little creativity you can create an awesome faux live edge piece. Even if you don’t need a mirror this, the faux live edge concept can be applied to almost any project you would like to make. If you follow me you know I have a thing for LEDs, so if it’s not your thing you can look past that.

I used pine lumber, and shaped it to have a natural look. Then, I added an inexpensive mirror and added LEDs to give a nice glow. This could be floor standing or wall mounted mirror. Lastly, I used a plug in smart outlet that can be controlled via WIFI.

(1) 8’ 1×12 White Wood Common Board
(1) 4’ 1×16 Laminated Spruce Panel Board
(1) 6’ 1×2 Select Pine
(1) 4’x1’ Door Mirror
(8) Pocket Hole Screws
Mastic

To build this exact mirror, get the free plans here: gumroad.com/diycreators

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Step 1: Get a Mirror

I was able to repurpose a mirror from a prior project. You can use this process for practically any mirror. I am using an inexpensive mirror that you can pick up at a local store for just around $5.

To begin, I removed the frame from around the mirror. For the live edge frame, all you need is one 8 x 12 feet lumber piece. This can be cut in half and used for both the front and back.

Step 2: Create the Live Edge Profile

The design was freehanded onto a piece of cardboard first. After sketching up the desired design, I transferred it the lumber and cut it out with a jigsaw. If you’d like, you can do some research to find a reference for your live edge template. Just keep in mind that this is yours and you can personalize it as much as you’d like.

Step 3: Routing for the Mirror

Now it was time to decide how much of the mirror we wanted to expose. We spaced the outer edge of the frame 16 inches apart; this distance was close enough for the mirror to touch both frame pieces. Next, place the mirror down onto the two pieces of lumber, double check the distance again, then trace a reference line. As I mentioned in the video, you can use a piece of wood the same thickness as the mirror, instead of routing into the frame pieces. Keep in mind that this will add thickness to the frame but will eliminate the need for routing.

Routing

Route out the section for the mirror. The best fit is if the mirror is flush with the surface of the lumber.

Step 4: Sand and Apply Finish

Shaping the Edge

When looking at the frame up against the mirror it appeared to be too thick for my liking. To make this area thinner, we used a chamfer bit on the router to taper the edge. That looked pretty good, but still not quite where I wanted it. We went back over the live edge with the sander and gave it a slight round over.

This is a good time to sand down the remaining parts.

The finish I used may not work for everyone, so explore and make sample pieces with different finishes. We applied wood conditioner prior to adding a dark Danish oil finish.

Step 5: Attaching the Mirror

Adhere the mirror to the faux edge using mastic or Liquid Nails. Be sure to keep some distance from the faux edge to prevent the mastic from squeezing through. Place weight on the mirror and frame (be careful not to crack or damage the mirror) and allow time for the adhesive to dry.

Step 6: Adding the Spacer

You can attach the spacers to the back of the mirror using wood glue, a nail gun or screws. Make sure the nails or screws clear the mirror, for obvious reasons. After attaching the spacers, secure the support pieces using pocket hole screws.

Since the LEDs were going to be placed on the sides, I drilled a hole near the bottom of each spacer piece. The LED strips need to pass through these so keep that in mind.

Step 7: Adding the LED Track

Since the LEDs are on both sides, I drilled a hole near the bottom of each spacer. The LED strips need to be able to pass through the hole, so keep that in mind. You can attach the LED track to the spacers using double sided tape or by screwing it into place.

Step 8: Adding the LED

I pulled out enough of the LED strip for the length of the mirror and a little extra to make a small loop, pass through the hole and into the opening in the middle. I peeled off the backing of the LED strip and adhered it to in the LED channel. Then, I installed the cover.

How to splice the LEDs:

Cut the DC power cable and expose the conductors (wires)
Strip off the jacket from each conductor(You should have two strips of LEDs one with the power jack and one with the cut end. These LEDs come with an extra end connector that you can snap right onto the strip which makes contact with the exposed copper).
Slip some shrinking tube over the conductor
Twist all of the red wires together and all the black wires together
Solder the exposed wires togetherSlide shrinking tube over soldered wires and use heat to shrink them into place
Secure the DC jack in order to prevent strain on the cord
Test the lights, if they work it’s time to attach the back panels

Step 9: Attaching the Back Panels

I used wood glue a nail gun to attach the back panels, making sure that they were even with the panels in the front.

Step 10: Covering the End Grain

The exposed end grain was not pleasing to look at, so I decided to cut a piece of iron-on veneer to cover the multiple layers. In most cases, this is not needed if you are mounting it on the wall. It’s more practical if you were to use this as a floor mirror.

Add a small piece of wood to close off the ends before applying the veneer. Iron the veneer into place. To blend the veneer to the live edge, sand the edges of the veneer and add a slight round over. Then apply stain to match the wood.

Securing the wire harness

Next, I installed a tie base to hold onto the wire harness to avoid strain on the LEDs.

Layer of protection

Finally, I applied two coats of satin wipe on poly.

Step 11: Finishing Touches

This mirror can be used as a floor mirror or wall mounted. You will need heavy duty hangers in order to mount the mirror to a wall. It’s best if you put this in studs, but you can also use heavy duty anchors to support it.

I drilled a hole in the wall behind the mirror and next to the power outlet, then fished the power cord up the wall.

Smart Control:

I used a smart outlet to control the mirror. This is pretty cool because you can control the outlet over wifi. There is a button on the outlet but the smart device is more convenient.