Felted Wool Slippers (crochet or Knit, Then Sew)




Introduction: Felted Wool Slippers (crochet or Knit, Then Sew)

About: I'm "retired", and now have time for all the creative things I've done since I was a child. I especially like anything with texture.....fabric, wood, glass, stones....even rusty objects. I have a LARGE fabr...

I saw these on line on as a DIY project at www.Mommyknows.com These are the crochet version of slippers that were in a craft magazine http://blog.craftzine.com/craftprojects/easy_house_slippers/. There is also a you tube video that really demonstrates how to "assemble" the slippers. It can be tricky the first time. I hate to try to re-invent the wheel so I urge you to watch the video.

These only took me 2 days from start to finish. The next 3 pairs will be FASTER now that I know what I'm doing!

Step 1: Step 1 Supplies

There are very little needed in way of supplies. You first need to decide how many skeins of yarn you will need. Since these will be felted, they will look HUGE when first assembled, but will shrink down to size when washed, and dried.

I wear a Woman's US size 8.5, so I decided to go with the suggested size block for a size 9, which was 20 single crochet stitches across, and 20 rows for each block. I probably could have made it a little smaller, and it still would have been OK.

NOTE: I had VERY little left over from each shein of yarn (the supply picture shows how much was left), and in fact, had I done this in the pattern shown on the video, I would not have had enough of one color. IF you wear a larger shoe than this you WILL need more than 2 skeins

2 skeins of 100% wool yarn  (I used Patons Classic Wool 100g/3.5 oz)
Crochet Hook (I used a G) US
Yarn Needle


Sewing Machine

Step 2: Step 2 Getting Started

First you need to decide what color pattern you want to use, and what size you're making.

Like I said before I made US size 9 so crocheted each block to have 20 single crochet stitches in each row, and 20 rows. It looks like you would add (or subtract) 1 stitch, and 1 row, for each size you go up (or down).  The stitches/rows are the same for the knitting instructions I believe.

Remember these will be HUGE, and odd looking prior to felting!

You will basically make a giant 'L' shape with 3 blocks for the short side and 5 blocks for the long side. 
The original pattern used 3 colors, the video used 2, and since I only had 2 colors I decided I would do that BUT I changed the color placement to use the same amount of your for each color (other wise I would have run out of 1 color)

Original colors: 1- 3 -1 for the short side, and 1- 2 -1 - 3  - 2  for the long side

Colors used in the video 1- 2- 1   and 1 - 2 - 1 - 2 - 1  (you'll have two # 1 right in a row)

I did mine this way 1 - 2 - 1  and 2 - 1 - 2 - 1 - 2

I'm not sure how much difference the colors REALLY make, so use your imagination....I'd LOVE to see what you come up with as well.

OK to crochet (I'm making a US size 9)
 Chain 21
Starting on the second chain single crochet across (you should have 20 SC stitches)
Chain 1 and turn
Continue until you have 20 rows

Step 3: Step 3 Changing Colors WITHOUT Knots

OK, so now you have your 20 rows, of 20 stitches (IF you are making US size 9) So you need to change to your next color. This is very easy to do without knots to make hard lumps in your felted project.

At the end of your 20th row do NOT fully complete your last stitch.
Pull up the two loops onto your hook and instead of catching, or picking up yarn of the same color, you will pick up the next color, and pull it through the two loops (dropping the first color)

Chain 1 with the new color.
At this point pull SLIGHTLY on the FIRST color of yarn, just to tighten up the stitch .
CUT the first color of yarn leaving a piece/"tail" ABOUT the same length as the "tail" on the new color of yarn. (no more than 2 inches)
Holding the "tails of BOTH colors of yarn lay them on top of previous stitches, and continue SC across. (Once you have the first SC done the two "tails" will stay up on top of the stitches without holding. You will SC 20 stitches across.
Chain 1 and turn
Repeat for 20 rows

Attach the next color in the same way

Step 4: Step 4 Sewing (don't Stress)

Once you have the 3 (three) blocks for the short side, and the 5 (five) blocks for the long side you will need to attach them to make a large piece that looks like a letter 'L'

I hand sewed my pieces together, but you COULD sew them by machine using a LONG, WIDE zig zag stitch, butting the two pieces together using matching thread.

I used yarn threaded onto my large eyed (tapestry) needle, and did a simple overcast stitch, putting the stitches fairly close together. Really you don't have to stress about your stitches because once these are felted the stitches will NEVER show.

Your first block of the long piece will be sewn to the BOTTOM of the last block of the short piece......Look at the picture.


Step 5: Step 5 ASSEMBLY: FOLD

Count up 4 (four) blocks from the last block on the longer piece.

Fold it DIAGONALLY towards the middle. See Pictures. You now have a bit of a letter 'U'

Fold the whole short side in to the middle to match up with the piece you just foled. 

Step 6: Step 6 Sew

Thread your Tapestry needle with yarn

HINT: Holding the needle in your dominate hand, and with the other hand loop the yarn over the needle TIGHTLY. Slide the needle out while still holding the yarn tightly, (pinching the yarn to make it thinner) push that pinched loop of yarn through the eye of the tapestry needle enough that you can grab it and pull the yarn through. 

Line up the blocks and sew them with the same overcast stitch. Weaving the "tail" into the stitches. Remember NO knots!

Stitch across the top block as well. See Pictures

Step 7: Step 7 Continue Folding and Sewing

Now FLIP the whole piece over.

With the finished point on your left, Fold the NEXT block in half diagonally matching and SEW the unfinished edge of the first block only to the edge of the diagonal block. See Pictures.

You will see what will be the toe, and the flap.

IF I have confused you watch the video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKMFEkSKGHg&feature=player_embedded#!

Step 8: Step 8 Complete the Folding and Sewing

You should have an odd piece hanging off of the back (your right side). We need to use that piece, now.

Open up the "slipper" (I'm using that term loosely at this point) and bring the edge of the last piece all the way to the front (toe).

Match up the edges of the second to the last piece, with the spice under it, and sew.

The edge of that last block will be folded in half diagonally leaving the "top" corner open as a "flap"  (that you will leave unattached) and you will sew the other edge to the open edge of the "toe" piece.

You will see an odd looking slipper with a point in the front for the toe, and a matching point in the back for the heel (don't worry this will go away with washing and wearing......trust me)

Step 9: Step 9 Felt

NOW is the really fun part!

Put your slippers in your washer with something heavier like a couple old towels, and a pair or two of Jeans. I have an old (never to be worn again) pair of heavy tennis shoes I toss in as well. You want the slippers to really be agitated.

Add only a tiny bit of laundry soap, just for the slippery (surfactant) affect.

Set your machine on the hottest water, and the longest cycle.  WAIT

When the cycle is completed look at your slippers. Mine were still too large (actually too wide), so I stretched them out a little in length and repeated the washing step.

Once the second cycle was completed, I dried the slippers (along with everything else that was in the washer).....I LOVE them. The pointy heel is gone, and they have actually continued to conform to my foot as I wear them. They are thick, and soft and WARM

Sew Warm Challenge

Participated in the
Sew Warm Challenge

Be the First to Share


    • Pocket-Sized Speed Challenge

      Pocket-Sized Speed Challenge
    • Super-Size Speed Challenge

      Super-Size Speed Challenge
    • Colors of the Rainbow Contest

      Colors of the Rainbow Contest

    10 Discussions


    Question 1 year ago on Step 1

    I am very excited to try these! My husband asked for slippers this Christmas. I'm having trouble finding a size chart for men and children.


    4 years ago

    These are lovely, I can't wait to try this pattern - I've seen it in a few places now called a Norwegian slipper. Great what you can do with simple squares. I'll probably add my Joe's Toes soles to make them last a bit longer.


    5 years ago on Introduction

    Slippers look wonderful and I know they will feel the same when I am done making and wearing them. Thanks for sharing.!


    6 years ago on Step 6

    These slippers look great! Here's a hint that I use to thread my tapestry and darning needles: thread them with a loop of dental floss first, since it's almost unbreakable, then thread your yarn through the floss loop. Pull the floss back through the eye and the yarn will be threaded, too.


    7 years ago on Step 9

    Hi very nice job, compliments.
    I would like to put your art on my website.
    I am Italian and live in Denver, Colorado
    Would you contact me at lori.venturi@gmail.com


    8 years ago on Step 9

    YES, that would be the problem. They need to be 100% wool (or other animal hair) to work with the number of stitcher per row, and the number of rows I gave in the directions. Also you would want to use a 100% wool that has NOT been treated to NOT shrink.....those would say "superwash, or wool-eze" or something like that on the label.

    A yarn that is up to 50-60% wool, and then some other fibers, SHOULD work, but you may need to wash it more times and for much longer each time.....like resetting the machine instead of letting it finish the cycle.

    Did they shrink at all? I had to wash mine 3 times total, since they don't get as much aggitation with a front load washing machine, like mine. Did you put something heavy in the wash with them, and wash them on really hot water? Did you dry them in the dryer on HOT?

    When they are properly "felted" or shrunk, they have a much different texture than pre wash. You really can't even make out the seperate stitches, since the fibers all kind of meld together.

    I'm so sorry you're having this problem....it sure takes the fun out of it doesn't it? Write back and let me know. Other wise I'd say try to unravel your stitches and use the yarn for something else :-(


    8 years ago on Step 9

    So I have a problem, I completed the knitting and sew ing parts but when I put it in the washer, it did not shrink. Perhaps I made them too big or maybe I used the wrong yarn. I am not sure it was 100% wool. Would that make a difference?


    8 years ago on Introduction

    Thanks These were REALLY easy to make...............I haven't crocheted ANYTHING for many years. I love using wool, and "felting" it...it changes the look and feel totally