The Best RAIN BARREL for Less Than $15, and Where to Find a Barrel

898,526

407

34

I have researched many rain barrel plans out there and I believe that mine is one of the most adaptable, effective, simple to make, and cheapest out there. After you have found a barrel, the rest of the parts and tools can be found at most hardware stores. Let me know if you have any ideas for improvement. 

I made this barrel for about $15, but using bulk discounts I was making them on average for about $12-$13. 

I can make one in about 10 minutes if I have all my parts and tools lined up, but it will most likely take about an hour if you are not familiar with the process

Caveat:
For two years I made these rain barrels and sold them at a local farmers market for $50. I got a little tired of them, as anyone would after making hundreds of anything. Eventually I realized that I would probably be more interested in designing larger rain water containers, and that these barrels are kind of a puny attempt at rain water collection. The best way to collect rain water is with a cistern that can hold thousands of gallons of water, rather than a mere 55 gallons. I recognize that not many people would like to spend their time and money on a large plastic container in their yard, which is why I am posting this "how to" as a compromise. I also think that having a rain barrel forces you to reconsider your daily water use, which is a positive outcome of a large or small rain water collecter.

Step 1: Rationale

The compression fitting I have designed is superior to many other rain barrels. Other rain barrels use glue to hold the hose bib (spigot) in place, or they only tap the threads of the hose bib into the plastic wall of the barrel, which will certainly wear out and leak. I am using a pre-existing hole in the barrel to access the rear of the hose bib to tighten it on securely. My system does not have leaks, and if they ever develop, you could always tighten the connections or replace them. With this design I have never had a customer come back to me saying that their barrel started to leak. 

Another advantage to my design is that it is easily repairable if a part ever wears out or leaks. Many other rain barrels also drill holes in the barrel plugs themselves to attach a hose bib, which will come out of the bottom of the barrel. This is not a great plan either as the plug cannot be retightened and the joint is susceptible to breaking if the barrel is accidentally dropped on the hose bib. 

Many rain barrels are made by cutting large holes in the top so that someone can access the back of the hose bib to put on a nut. The holes are commonly covered with screening material which filter's debris. In concept, this idea works, but in reality the screens clog, or rip, or they let in mosquitos, or they let in sunlight which encourages algae growth and bad smells. My barrels do not let in sun or mosquitos because it is a closed system. Debris may settle in the bottom of the barrel over time, but this will happen with any barrel. The barrel can be easily cleaned by tipping it over and spraying it out with a hose.

Follow my instructions and I think you will be happy with the product. 

Step 2: Where to Find a Barrel?

For this Instructable, I will be using one blue HDPE 55 gallon barrel that has two screw plugs in the end/top. This is the most common type of barrel that I have seen and usually the cheapest to buy. Finding a barrel can be the hardest part of making a rain barrel, so I will list a few ideas, and successes that I have had:

1. Craigslist: This is often the easiest way to find a barrel. Where I live, people commonly sell them for $10. I would not pay more than $15. If you just search for "barrel" you should find something. Check what was stored in them before you buy them. I have found some with liquid smoke in them that have been a real pain to deal with and they never really stop smelling. They should also not have had any toxic chemicals stored in them that could harm your plants. I would encourage you to ask if the seller is willing to trade anything for an empty barrel. Many people on Craigslist are purveyors of multiple goods or are familiar with trading for goods. It can be worth the effort to ask. You may get a free barrel or two for trading some junk that you don't need. 

2. Local Food Distributors/Bottlers: This could be your best bet and was my method of choice. You will have to do some research and call around your city to find out if any food distributors use 55 gallon drums and if they would be able to give them to you for free or sell them at a low cost. Common uses for the drums include soda syrups, juice, soy sauce (my most common variety), grain alcohol, hops for beer, marinades, liquid smoke, etc. I googled bottling companies in my area and made many phone calls. If you are polite and present clear questions to the people who answer the phone, you may get exactly what you need. I was able to arrange to pick them up locally for free if I did not disturb the area around the facility. This arrangement worked great for me for a long time, but each scenario is different. I have head that some Pepsi/Coke bottling plants give them away, while others do not. If you are looking to make multiple rain barrels, this could be your regular supplier. Don't give up after one or two calls, I think I made about one hundred calls before setting up my particular arrangement. Seek and ye shall find.

3. Pickles/Olives: I have met multiple rain barrel makers who get their barrels exclusively from olive or pickle distributors. . Go to your local grocery store and see if any of the pickles or olives are distributed locally and make a few phone calls to see if they have barrels. The barrels that contain olives and pickles are commonly larger and have a large screw lid, but they can be easily used to make the same type of rain barrels that I have designed. 

4. Car wash: Many local car wash places get their soaps in 55 gallon barrels and they will sometimes give them away. I have found this approach to be more work than its worth because you will have to rinse the barrels many times to get the soap out, which can defeat the purpose of rain water harvesting. In reality, you will most likely have to rinse any barrel you find, so I guess my point is moot. This is often a viable option. I would also steer clear of the white or clear barrels common at car washes because they let sunlight in and can encourage algae growth.

5. Vineyard: For a fancier rain barrel, you can also try calling local vineyards to find out of they have any used oak barrels for sale. With a little more effort and more upfront cost, you can have a great looking rain barrel at a fraction of the cost of a store bought oak barrel. I bought mine for $80 each, which I found to be a common price. With a little shellac the barrels can last forever. 

Step 3: Tools and Materials

Tools that you need include:

Silicone Caulk
Large Adjustable Wrench
1" Forstner Bit
4" Hole Saw
Long Screw Driver
Barrel Plug Wrench (Costs about $50, can use a screw driver and hammer instead)
Drill


Step 4: Materials

Materials for the barrel include:

2" x 3" Flexible Downspout Adapter
(or if you have a 4" round downspout, you can divert it directly into the barrel. Or you could cut an outline of your own downspout in the top of the barrel and use your existing material. This is more work and less clean than my setup, but cheaper I guess)
1" Washer
3/4" Brass Hose Bib
3/4"MHT x 3/4"MIP x 1/2"MP Brass Adapter
3/4" Black Iron 90 Degree Elbow

All of the materials can be found at a local hardware store, but if you are going to make a lot of them I would check at a large pluming store for discounts on bulk orders. I was able to get my costs way down this way.  

Step 5: Drill 3 Holes: First Hole

The way that this should work out after you drill these holes is that there will be a spout in the barrel at the base which will face outwards, an overflow which will shoot out to the side from the top of the barrel wall, and a downspout adapter at the back of the top of the barrel which will back up to the wall of your house.

Use the 1" Forstner bit to drill a hole about 4 inches from the bottom of the barrel on the side wall so that it will line up with one of the barrel plugs. It is critical that it lines up with the barrel plug. This hole will be for the spout.


Step 6: 2nd Hole

Turn the barrel 1/4 turn and drill a hole about 4 inches from the top of the barrel on the side wall. This hole will be for the overflow adapter.


Step 7:

Switch out the drill bit for the 4" hole saw and drill a hole in the top of the barrel, toward the backside of it. The location of the hole should NOT be like the one in the picture. Mine was drilled in the center because a client wanted it that way. Ideally, the hole at the base should be at the front side of the barrel and the 4" hole in the top should be at the back of the top, as it will back up to your house. You should drill your hole toward the back side of the top so that when you place the barrel beside your house, the downspout will feed directly into it.

Step 8: Screw in the Overflow Adapter

Manually insert the brass adapter piece into the 1" hole drilled near the top of the barrel, being careful to thread the pipe thread end (not the garden hose end) as close to horizontal as possible. Use an adjustable wrench to fully tighten the adapter all the way into the barrel. 

Step 9: Caulk

Spread silicone caulk on the washer and place it on the hose bib, with the caulk facing the barrel. 


Step 10: Inside the Barrel

Turn the barrel upside down and using the barrel wrench remove the screw plug which is nearest to the 1" spout hole in the barrel. Place the 90 degree black iron fitting on your left index finger and insert it into the plug hole so that the threads are visible from the outside, and lined up with the spout hole.


Step 11: Screw in the Hose Bib

This is the most important part of the Instructable to do correctly, but it should not be too difficult if you are patient and follow the instructions

Using your right hand to hold the hose bib and your left to hold the 90 degree fitting, carefully twist the hose bib into place making sure to align the threads straight. Once the threads have caught, hand tighten the hose bib.


Step 12: Tighten the Fittings

Insert the screw driver into the exposed end of the 90 degree fitting, inside of the barrel, and use the large adjustable wrench to tighten the hose bib until it is positioned correctly. I usually only have to make 3 or 4 turns with the wrench until the washer has bent in slightly. Do not over tighten or the threads of the hose bib can shear right off.

This part is really what I am most proud of about my rain barrels. Many people have asked me how I connect the hose bib and what keeps it on so tight. The secret is in this image. 

Step 13: Clean Up

Wipe up any excess silicone that has squirted out of the sides of the washer, and then replace and tighten the screw plug using the barrel wrench. 


Step 14: Finish

Pop in the flexible down spout adapter into the top of the barrel and you are done!


Step 15: Installation and Rationale

To install the rain barrel, you just have to place it on two cinder blocks (bare minimum, can stack many more), measure the height of your downspout adapter to the downspouts on your house, trim your house's downspouts to meet the barrel adapter, then slide the adapter over your downspout. Hook up garden hoses to the spout and overflow adapter and the barrel is ready to go. 

Using the downspout adapter, multiple barrels can be linked together. Some people design their rain barrels with the downspout adapters at the bottom. The downspout adapter is placed at the top of the barrel in order to allow one barrel to completely fill up before filling the next one. This creates the water pressure that will push water through your hose. 

I do not use a screen in my barrels because I designed a closed system rain barrel that will prohibit mosquitos from entering the barrel once everything is hooked up properly. You can clean the barrel by turning it over and spraying it with a hose. If you need a screen, you can cut out a piece of window screen and sandwich it between your barrel and your downspout. 


2 People Made This Project!

Recommendations

  • Classroom Science Contest

    Classroom Science Contest
  • Sensors Contest

    Sensors Contest
  • Fandom Contest

    Fandom Contest

34 Discussions

0
None
roger48103

Tip 2 months ago on Step 15

You can get a 32 gallon trash can from Menards for $10.. A Female hose to 1/2 male pipe adapter is $4.00. Add rubber washer for about $0.50. Use a plastic nut that is used to fasten faucets to a kitchen counter to attach the adapter on the inside of the barrel.. . I like to add a short piece of clear vinyl hose to the bottom and put the shutoff about four feet up. That way if you leave the hose vertical you can see the level of the water in the barrel.
You do not need the gutter adapter -- i just drill a 2" hole in the lid and cover the hole with a scrap of window screen. Put the trash can lid on upside down to catch the rain.
Another female hose to 1/2" pipe adapter near the top of the barrel for attaching a overflow hose is optional.. You can put more barrels in parallel using y adapters.

0
None
Stavros!

5 years ago on Introduction

Not bad, but I think this is better, as you only have to put one hole in the barrel. Watch this video:
You tube video
5 Dollar RAIN BARRELS 55 gallons to 1000 gallons
Connecting multiple barrels with part numbers for the pvc parts

And for the bottom, avoid silicone as it leaches chemicals into water with
prolonged contact:

For installing a faucet on the barrel without silicone (and they have a video
on how to install the fitting and there are other companies that sell it,
don't buy it at Home Depot though, their plastic fitting contains lead):

http://www.bayteccontainers.com/bulfit34.html

(I used a hole saw instead of a spade bit, because I already had a hole saw. )

2 replies
0
None
ArtM41Stavros!

Reply 6 months ago

something to mention here:
make sure you measure the thickness if the wall of your barrel before buying bulkhead fittings (you'll need to drill hole probably). not all barrel wall thicknesses are alike. mine were too thick for the fittings I had and I couldn't get the inside nut on.

0
None
Stavros!ArtM41

Reply 6 months ago

The bulk head fittings I've seen have 3/4" to an inch of threads on them. Where would you get a barrel that was thicker than that?

0
None
ArtM41

6 months ago on Step 15

Great instructable, especially the very detailed tips on sourcing the barrels. However, once you got started on the build itself, there are a couple things you might want to change as the instructions as written are crazy confusing in some areas.

First, and most important, you might want to start at the very beginning by saying "turn your barrel upside down" and "for the rest of the instructable, 'top' is the previous bottom, and vice versa". maybe show your pic of the finished item at the beginning too for a reference and stick with 'top' and 'bottom'. you switched labels adding in "base" midway and it was very hard to know which way you were referencing. And maybe say "near the edge" for the downspout location instead of the "back of the top". There is not front or back of a barrel really. Your front will be different from mine I guess. It's just syntax really, but might help.

Also, you mention it's "critical" to line up the faucet with the barrel plug but never explained why. It becomes obvious obviously but confusing still.

Overall it's a brilliant design. I've got about 10 barrels under various rain spouts feeding into each using cutouts on the top rims with small ramps to the top of the next barrel, but I def like the "fully enclosed concept".

One question though: why an elbow to screw the bib into? Wouldn't something straight work just as well? Is it a reach thing?

0
None
multilis

5 years ago on Introduction

If you want more capacity, normally easier to get a 200+ gallon square plastic tank with metal cage (I picked up a number for free). They tend to have 6 inch opening at top, 2 inch on bottom with a 2 inch facet already attached. You just have to rig up an overflow system.

The simplest "rain barrel" is to stick it on its side (make a quick stand) and use existing holes on barrel. Game of 90 degree elbows, size adapters, etc to get water in and overflow out on top, and on bottom you just thread in a facet or size reducer and facet. Easy as well to do more complicated chaining of multiple barrels.

2 replies
0
None
jasonhamultilis

Reply 2 years ago

Where would you suggest looking for one of these 200 gal cage tanks? I've searched craigslist and haven't found any. Any suggestions for what tyles of businesses would have them?

0
None
dorkjacksonjasonha

Reply 2 years ago

Try searching IBC or tote. They're commonly in 275 or 330 gallons.

0
None
JohnnyBgood95

2 years ago

So, although you say it is sealed, do the mosquitoes not fly down the downspout into the water, or is that too far for their dumb little brains to comprehend? Also, do they not go in through the overflow hole? Thanks for the great design! I have several that I plan to make and link all together.

2 replies
0
None
stylnpzzalvrJohnnyBgood95

Reply 2 years ago

Good question, I think it depends on your specific setup. At one point, I started using a small piece of window screen between the downspout and the barrel to prevent debris and bugs. You may just have to test it out and adjust as needed. Good luck

0
None
betricestylnpzzalvr

Reply 2 years ago

They can and do but the thing is that the adults die because they can't find their way out after having deposited their eggs. So what you are dealing with here is larvae. The solution is to add 3 T of olive oil to the barrel. It gives the water in the barrel a thin coat. The larvae cannot hatch because they need oxygen and the oil prevents them from surfacing to reach the air. It does not harm the barrel or any vegetables/plants that you might be using the water on.

This is a really interesting design! Thank you for including all the information about where to get barrels... that's an enormous help!

1 reply
0
None
t2thedoc

2 years ago

Can you tell me why/if an old water heater isnt a good idea for a rain barrel or even several water heaters just lined up for the overflow? Old water heaters are an easy free find so that's what id LIKE to use, plus for me at least it seems obvious to use it.However, there doesn't seem to be much info or pix from folks who converted one into a rain barrel. Tons of water heaters repurposed into stoves and grills, ect- but not for containing water. Which means either its SUCH a simple idea that no one sees the point in showing it off OR that i must not be thinking of something that makes it a terrible idea. I have 7- SEVEN!- water heaters lined up for either scrap/disposal, (which goes against my rule of teusung EVERYTHING at least once before getting rid of it) or i have a potential rain collecting system on hand. I already have a cool grill and firepit made from upcycled materials so im really hoping i can use these for watering my flowers for my backyard nursery. (And possibly for an outdoor shower- nothing fancy, just to cool off when it gets to hot and to let water rinse off the dirt before i go inside).
Any advice or words of wisdom?

1 reply
0
None
panks

3 years ago

Terrific!

0
None
cleflaive

3 years ago on Introduction

Using uniseal joints makes things much easier to install a faucet

0
None
tonyarn

4 years ago on Introduction

We bought a 114 year old house last year and it has an old cistern in the driveway. I wonder what it would take to get it up and going again.

0
None
Stavros!

5 years ago on Introduction

Oh, and skip the garden faucet, get a 1/4 turn 3/4" ball valve.

Compare water flow with regular garden faucet and 1/4 turn ball valve
(both screw into same size hole and fit a garden hose):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEpybHgKqQk

0
None
Aquabarrel

5 years ago on Introduction

Highly suggest you match in the incoming water volume with the overflow in areas where heavy rains occur http://www.aquabarrel.com/product_overflow_port.php

If you keep this barrel in the upright position then you are less likely to have a leak out the bottom bung plug - even if it is sealed with silicone it might leak.

For those folks in places that get below freezing you might want to take the rain barrel off-line for the winter with a diverter http://www.aquabarrel.com/product_downspout_diverter_rectangular_aluminum.php

or just spend a few more dollars and get a diy kit designed the right way:-) http://www.aquabarrel.com/product_rain_barrel_parts_kit_earthminded.php