Laundry Hooks

My wife wanted laundry hooks added to the wall to hang clothing that was stain treated.

She wasn't sure how long she wanted it, but wanted to make sure it was in studs.

I went for 24" long, and 5 1/2" tall (partly cause I had a 6" wide board of pine laying around)

Supplies:

Parts:

  • 6"x2' pine board
  • (11) Hooks
  • (22) #6, 1 3/4" flat head wood screws
  • (2) #10, 3" screws (I used Sprax screws)
  • Stain and polyurethane clear coat (or paint)

Tools:

  • Table saw / Radial arm saw / hand saw
  • Router / Router table (optional) - for decorative edging
  • Drill
  • Screw driver
  • Counter sink bit
  • 3/32" drill bit
  • Level
  • Stud finder or magnets

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Step 1: Cutting

Cut the pine board down to 24" long. Table saw (I really need to get around to building a cross cut sled), radial arm saw (if the wood width is too wide, don't forget you can flip it back over), hand saw, whatever. I picked 24" to ensure it would span across two studs in the wall (typically 16"), as my intention is to screw the board directly into the studs (no mollies or other drywall anchors).

Step 2: Decorative Edge (optional)

I routed a more decorative edge into the four sides of the board, using a router, router table, and a chamfer bit.

Note: The router table isn't really necessary due to the design of the bit... and one of these times I'm going to remember that.

Step 3: Predrill Some Holes

I marked mounting holes 4" from each long edge, and 2.75" from the top. These are for mounting into the stud. I used a drill block to help keep the bit at 90 degrees, and drilled 1/8" pilot holes straight thru. I then used a #10 counter sink bit, so the screws would sit flush.

After I determine how I wanted the hooks laid out (two rows of scattered hooks), I measured how far down each hole would need to be, and marked some guidelines to make sure they would all be installed straight. For the top row I made two lines. One line 1 1/4" down from the top, and the other line 1 1/8" down from the top. For the bottom row, one line 1 5/8" up from the bottom edge, and the other line 1 3/4" up from the bottom. I than drew perpendicular lines thru the top row, 2" from the edges, and every 4" apart. On the bottom row, I drew perpendicular lines 4" from the edges, and every 4" apart. The result is staggered every two inches. I than drilled 3/32" pilot holes at each intersecting point. You do not want to drill all the way through (but it's not a problem if you do). A drill stop, or piece of tape on the bit would be helpful to limit the depth.

Step 4: Cleaning / Sanding

With the holes predrilled, the pencil lines are no longer needed. I used an eraser to remove most of them. I then sanded all the surfaces and edges for a nice smooth finish (and to remove any pencil marks I missed).

Step 5: Staining or Painting

I wanted to paint the board. But, my wife wanted the board stained. So...

Apply the stain, wait three minutes, remove the stain. Wait six hours. Lightly sand, repeat. (I did not repeat).

"What are these lines? Will another coat cover that up?". That's not how stain works, which is why I suggested painting the pine ;)

I also applied two coats of polyurethane clear coat, light sanding in between.

Wait 24 hours…

Step 6: Assemble

The screws that came with the hooks were far too long. I swapped them out for #6 3/4" length flat head wood screws.

Install the 11 hooks, with the 22 wood screws, using the pilot holes you made earlier. I found a low powered electric screw driver quite helpful here.

Step 7: Install

Try to line up where the studs are, using a stud finder or other method. I like running a magnet along the wall to find the nail heads in the stud. I used adhesive flags to mark the location of the studs.

Center the pine board over the studs, and use the level to ensure it is… level. Push a paperclip or drill bit thru the mounting holes (made earlier in the board) to mark the wall. Remove the board. Pre-drill small pilot holes where you marked the wall. Stick a paper clip or something else into the wall, and make sure the stud is where you though it was.

Assuming everything looks okay, put the board back into position and screw the 3" screws through the board, through the drywall, and into the stud.

Now hang any stained treated items, as you see fit.

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