Modern Coat Rack

30,065

556

30

About: Husband, Father, Woodworker based in Wilmington, NC

This tutorial will show you how to build a modern coat rack. This modern coat rack design made from Black Walnut wood is both stylish and functional. Whether you’re looking for a coat rack in your foyer or mudroom and whether your interior design style is modern farmhouse or craftsman, this coat rack is sure to fit in just fine. When I was looking for different coat rack designs I ran across a few similar to this that I adapted into my own space and figured out how to build.

If you don't feel like building one I'm now accepting custom orders for these racks HERE


Check out the “How to Build a Modern Coat Rack” video here and don’t forget to Subscribe!

Step 1: Select Your Materials

I decided on some air-dried walnut that I had been holding onto for a long time. However, you could choose pretty much any wood for this project. Even plywood would probably make a great modern coat rack design.

Step 2: Cut and Dimension Lumber

If using rough lumber, cut it to the length you want your coat rack and proceed to joint and plane the wood. If you purchased pre-surfaced lumber than go ahead and cut to length and width. I made my coat racks 30″ long to fit in the space I had, but you could make them any length.

Step 3: Cut Boards Into Sections

I cut 2″ strips for the stationary pieces and 1″ strips for the moveable pieces that will be used for hanging. Again you could use a variety of different measurements for this, so don’t be hung up on the 1″ and 2″ strips. You can experiment here to see what works and looks best for your own modern coat rack.

Step 4: Cut Angles on the Moveable Pieces

Here is where you cut the angles on the pieces that will fold out to be the hangers in your modern coat rack. You don’t technically need the angle on the top but I think it helps and looks better. I cut 45 degree angles on both ends but ended up having to go back and trim a little more off the bottom so it could swing all the way down without rubbing the wall. Check out the video to see what I’m talking about.

Step 5: Drill Each Piece for the Dowel Rod

I used a 3/8″ Oak dowel rod to connect my modern coat racks. Again, this is up to you on what size and material you want to use for your dowel rod. You could match the material so it blends in or go with a contrasting color wood like I chose. I set-up stop blocks on my drill press to make the repeatable holes go a little quicker. To know where to drill I lined up the moveable piece against the side of one of the stationary pieces and traced where they met when the moveable piece was folded down. I then found the center of these marks that would serve as the axis for the dowel rod. Once you have this mark, just set-up stop blocks on a drill press or use a hand drill to drill all of your holes.

Step 6: Sand and Finish All of the Pieces

Next you want to sand each individual piece and finish them before assembling. I just put my random orbital sander in my bench vise and sanded each piece, you could do this by hand if needed. After sanding up to 220 grit, it was time to apply finish. I chose Minwax Wipe-on Poly, but would probably try simple Boiled Linseed Oil next time to avoid the film finish that I’m sure will show wear on these over time.

Step 7: Assemble the Coat Rack

After the finish dries you are ready to add all of the pieces for your modern wood coat rack to the dowel rod. This proved a little difficult for me until I used a little paste wax on the dowel to lube things up. After assemble it is a good ides to use a long clamp to apply some pressure to make sure all of the pieces are seated well. Next I removed the two end pieces, added some wood glue, and reinstalled them. That’s it, the other stationary pieces did not need glue because of the tight fit and the way they mount to the wall not allowing for any movement. Once the glue is dry, flush cut the dowel ends off. Then I figured out where I wanted my mounting locations and routed key hole slots into the backs of the coat racks. Be sure only to route these into the stationary pieces!

Step 8: Install and Enjoy the Coat Rack

I used a screw on each end and one in the middle to mount these with the key hole slots. These coat racks have proved to be even more functional and good looking than I originally pictured! I hope this helps you build a modern coat rack of your own!

If you enjoyed this tutorial, please share on Pinterest and other social media sites as well as subscribe to my YouTube Channel. You may also enjoy some of my other project tutorials and the list of Tools from my Shop.

Thank you!

Matt

BorkWood Blog

Share

    Recommendations

    • Colors of the Rainbow Contest

      Colors of the Rainbow Contest
    • Pets Challenge

      Pets Challenge
    • Sensors Contest

      Sensors Contest

    30 Discussions

    0
    None
    instructible01

    11 months ago

    Nice job! One other thought. If we were to replace the wooden dowel with a common unthreaded rod without adhesive we could then rotate each hook in or out of parallel to the wall as needed.

    1 reply
    0
    None
    BarrySumpterinstructible01

    Reply 2 months ago

    Rebar would work. Aluminum bar would work but less strength. I would suggest securing the middle piece for more strength. hth

    0
    None
    LaurieL52

    Question 4 months ago

    How should I hang this on the wall? I don't want to rely on screws through the front of the rack, since it may not match up with the studs.

    1 answer
    0
    None
    BarrySumpterLaurieL52

    Answer 2 months ago

    Absolutely use at lease 1 stud. 2 is preferable. I tried using Wall Mates. One worked. The other tore out because the insert screw didn't engage the butterfly mechanism. grrrr You might have a better designed butterfly mechanism. Even then you might forget and place a heavy backpack on the rack and get tear out.

    The key hole mount is easiest but you run the risk of lifting the rack off the screw head and all come tumbling down. Some sort of stop on top of the rack would prevent this.

    hth

    0
    None
    BarrySumpter

    2 months ago

    You don't need a seperate spacer block.
    Plus if you forget to use the spacer block you've just messed up the sequence.

    Here is an easy to follow step by step procedure I've been using for 2" and 1" work pieces.
    Once you worked thru the sequence its much easier than it reads.

    1. Set your stop 3".
    2. Measure, mark and cut your first work length at 2"

    3. Slide the 2" workpiece you just cut over to the stop block. This is your ( 2" ) spacer.
    4. Slide your work length over to the spacer.

    The difference between your stop( of 3" ) and the your first cut ( of 2" ) is 1". So your next cut will be already measures and set at 1".

    5. Make your second cut (already measured at 1").
    6. Remove the 2" spacer. And place it on a flat surface along side the previous 1" cut workpieces if already done.

    7. Slide the second cut ( of 1" ) over to the stop block. This is your next ( 1" ) spacer.
    8. Slide your work length over to the 1" spacer

    9. Make your third cut ( now already measured and set at 2")
    10. Remove the 1" spacer. And place it on the flat surface next to the 2" cut your removed previously.

    Repeat again starting at step 3 until you reach your required Coat Rack width.

    Hope this helps

    0
    None
    Rituguptascs

    6 months ago on Introduction

    So simple and yet so aesthetic! I'm definitely going to try doing this so I have a nice place to hang up all my stuff when I come back home. I'm probably one of the last few people who end up chucking everything on the nearest arm chair or counter top because there's just no nice place to hang all my caps and coats!

    1
    None
    Maker Gray

    7 months ago

    Beautiful rack!

    0
    None
    PaulChau

    11 months ago on Introduction

    Coat storage at my home has always been the boring metal hanger type that is still in a good condition even after so many years. For me, durability and practicality are what truly matter at the end of the day. However, it does no harm trying out new and creative ideas from time to time.

    0
    None
    rof

    1 year ago

    Two concerns - many of my coats do not have hanging loops big enough for 'pegs' like these. And then in my book, the 'pegs' should have well rounded edges to protect the loops.

    2 replies
    1
    None
    instructible01rof

    Reply 11 months ago

    This design is more for hanging the coat on by the neck/collar rather than a loop.

    0
    None
    BorkWoodrof

    Reply 1 year ago

    While the edges still look sharp, they were knocked down with some sandpaper so I don't see them cutting any loops. For my purpose these will mostly be used for backpacks, kids jackets with hoods, and hats, so the size of the hooks were not a concern.

    0
    None
    makendo

    1 year ago

    beautiful! But isn't this the weakest way to orient the grain? maybe walnut is way tougher than the wood I usually use, but I'd worry about one of the hooks splitting. It is the best way to show off the grain though, so I guess it's a tricky one...

    5 replies
    0
    None
    torlopmakendo

    Reply 1 year ago

    I totally agree. It was the first thing I noticed.

    However, you could strengthen it with a spline on the back side. Which wouldn't be seen unless you were above the rack.

    1
    None
    instructible01torlop

    Reply 11 months ago

    I agree with other comments that a 7/8" walnut should be strong enough but if you think you will need the additional strength (and a cool factor) you could drill out the center of each piece and glue in a a metal rod with epoxy (contemporary) or you could glue in a wooden dowel (traditional).

    1
    None
    BorkWoodtorlop

    Reply 1 year ago

    We'll see, but 7/8" thick Walnut should be plenty strong for this purpose regardless of grain orientation.

    0
    None
    torlopBorkWood

    Reply 1 year ago

    You might be right.

    However, my bet is that if it was going to break it will happen where the dowel is. Seeing that it is not 7/8" thick anymore because of the dowel.

    Granted if people only use it for hats and caps that's fine.

    This is a fine project and all credit to you.

    0
    None
    BorkWoodmakendo

    Reply 1 year ago

    It is, but with the thickness of these pieces and the low weight of things being hung from it I do not see it becoming an issue. I guess another way would have been to glue up a panel with all of the grain oriented vertically and go from there. But that look of a continuous piece of wood was too much to resist, haha!

    1
    None
    ksd050

    Question 1 year ago

    Am I right that the only thing stopping the 'hooks' from rotating further down is the wall?

    If so this is a worry.. especially with something as soft as plasterboard. With heavy winter coats and bags and the massive mechanical advantage the leaver action gives, I have no doubt this would damage and potentially pierce the wall given enough use.

    2 answers
    1
    None
    instructible01ksd050

    Answer 11 months ago

    I was thinking the same thing. My thought on addressing this is to either add a piece of 1/8 hardboard to the back or you can add something that is thicker as desired.

    1
    None
    Vitalij Xksd050

    Answer 1 year ago

    I think a strip of some metal at hook contact will help to save the wall and to hang some really heavy things on it. And at the same time it would be hidden.