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Antzy Carmasaic

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I'm programmer and an electronics hobbyist. I try to find that point where software meets hardware meets art. "Necessity is the mother of all creation, but laziness is the father." "The best way to be close to The Creator is by creating"

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Photography Tips and Tricks Contest
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Rainbow Contest
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Unusual Uses Challenge
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Microcontroller Contest
Contest Winner Second Prize in the Microcontroller Contest
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  • FS-Touch Bed Levelling Tool

    I wasn't aware of Pico models having ADC pins. Then you can certainly use it. You'll just have to convert the code for the Pi.

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  • FS-Touch Bed Levelling Tool

    Those are "vias". They are used to connect the top and the bottom copper layer connections.Usually the boards from professional PCB shops are "through plated", which means all the holes are coated and connect top and bottom layers.But for home fabrication, it's not possible(or extremely difficult). So additional vias are added and then wire is passed through the vias and soldered on both sides to connect top and bottom layers.If you're ordering from a PCB maker, then you can ignore the vias. They won't affect the functioning of the circuit.

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  • FS-Touch Bed Levelling Tool

    Yes that is a simple and useful solution to the same problem. While the feeler gauge method gives digital output: either on or off, FS-Touch gives an analog output: whole range of values. So while FS-Touch gives more data, it is up to you to decide whether you need it or not. In the end, what matters is what solves our problems and meets our requirements.

    Raspberry Pi do not have ADC pins on them. So reading analog values from force sensor and converting them is not possible on a stock Raspberry Pi. An extra ADC board is required to use it. I chose the pro because it is small. You can use any available Arduino for cheap.

    Unfortunately, a pre-heated nozzle will melt the sensor. So we need to use a cold nozzle for this. This is an alternative to using a feeler gauge and provides more data instead of a yes/no for touching.

    Are you referring to the board design(black background)? If so, I think the dots you could be referring to might be vias(smaller green circles), which connect the top and bottom layers.

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  • Automated Chessboard

    Wow. This is an extremely detailed instructable and I leaned a lot from it. It seems you have solved the problem for all permutations and combinations, but there are a few edge cases I'm thinking how you handled:1. How do you handle a rogue human player? For example someone who does not follow the rules, either on purpose or mistakenly(elbow hit). Like moving two pieces at once or moving the opponent's piece?2. When taking a piece, the player picks up the opponent's piece and places his own on that square. What if the pieces are close enough at all times so the reed switch is not turned off to register it as a completed action?A small correction: TIP120 is not a MOSFET, it is a power transistor. But since you won't be powering the electromagnet continuously for long periods of time, it is…

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    Wow. This is an extremely detailed instructable and I leaned a lot from it. It seems you have solved the problem for all permutations and combinations, but there are a few edge cases I'm thinking how you handled:1. How do you handle a rogue human player? For example someone who does not follow the rules, either on purpose or mistakenly(elbow hit). Like moving two pieces at once or moving the opponent's piece?2. When taking a piece, the player picks up the opponent's piece and places his own on that square. What if the pieces are close enough at all times so the reed switch is not turned off to register it as a completed action?A small correction: TIP120 is not a MOSFET, it is a power transistor. But since you won't be powering the electromagnet continuously for long periods of time, it is good enough for your use case.

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  • Nova Spot Micro 3 - a Spot Mini Clone Quadruped Robot Dog

    That's really impressive. I was expecting a miniature version(can't judge the scale from the title image) and was pleasantly surprised to see a full sized one. And one that almost has the whole range of motions as the original. Would love to see polished walk and run animations, and some testing in the outside world.

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  • FS-Touch Bed Levelling Tool

    It will be a bit of work to redesign it all for LEDs. If you do not have a 7-segment display, you can simply arrange 7 LEDs in a circle and an 8th LED for the dot. You won't get the digits for countdown but rest all should be fine. As for the resistance, it was something above 1Mohm when nothing was exerting force on the sensor.

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  • Automated Overhead Camera Assistant for Instructional Videos

    Great project. I wanted to mount my camera on a robotic arm, but this kind of setup makes more sense and will be much cheaper. By speeding up the slow transitions, a lot of very interesting effects comes to my mind. Thanks for sharing this.

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  • Generative Art Bike Paint Job

    Looks great! I've spray painted and vinyl wrapped by bikes and made designs over it using lining tape, but it comes off after a while. Will try masking and spray painting my next bike. And this pattern looks pretty rad as well

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    • Alexa Controlled Bookshelf Lighting
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  • Alexa Controlled Bookshelf Lighting

    My house has brick walls so no fussing around with studs. If you have to, then you could start by covering all sides of the cavity in wall with sheets of support material(plywood or aluminium sheets) which are attached to studs and then screw L-angles anywhere on those sheets.

    Thank you Penolopy! The grooves in shelves had a bit variance(1-2mm) so had to do quite a bit of sanding and custom 3D printed light-bar sizing to make them fit well enough.

    That would be nice. I think home automation really helps the elderly, especially those living alone.

    Wow, that looks great. Since I was building everything from ground up, it was much easier for me to hide up the wiring than to hide in pre-existing shelves. You should totally make an instructable for your project. All the best for it.

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  • Mesmerizing Ferrofluid-Display: Silently Controlled by Electromagnets

    Amazing project! I saw it on hackaday some time back and was blown away by the concept.In the video, you requested a few game ideas which might work out with your display and here are some of mine:1. Snake - Pretty obvious. Increases in length as it eats blobs, and dies if it bites its own body(disable all magnets and let it all fall)2. World Of Goo - This is a game where you make trusses to connect point A to point B. The magnets could be kept at lower intensity so if you add too much ferrofluid to the structure(i.e. make it too heavy), gravity will overcome and it will collapse.3. Agar.io - 2 players controls blob that eat other blobs to become larger. Of course in your case, the blobs cannot be too big and would have to be represented by a criss-cross of multiple connected dots to indi…

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    Amazing project! I saw it on hackaday some time back and was blown away by the concept.In the video, you requested a few game ideas which might work out with your display and here are some of mine:1. Snake - Pretty obvious. Increases in length as it eats blobs, and dies if it bites its own body(disable all magnets and let it all fall)2. World Of Goo - This is a game where you make trusses to connect point A to point B. The magnets could be kept at lower intensity so if you add too much ferrofluid to the structure(i.e. make it too heavy), gravity will overcome and it will collapse.3. Agar.io - 2 players controls blob that eat other blobs to become larger. Of course in your case, the blobs cannot be too big and would have to be represented by a criss-cross of multiple connected dots to indicate size. Whoever is the largest at the end wins.

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  • Alexa Controlled Bookshelf Lighting

    This is a RAR file and will not open in WinZip. You will have to use WinRar to open this. I tried uploading a zip but not allowed on instructables.

    That's a neat project idea. Voice controlled devices are a perfect match for elderly or disabled as repetitive tasks which are a major annoyance for them can be voice controlled or fully automated or a bit of both(as you mentioned). And the lockdown is a nice time to devote to all those pending ideas. Best of luck for your project.

    Thanks Your comment reminds me of the quote: give a man a hammer and everything looks like a nail. XD

    In Step-11(Making PCB), I have very simplified diagrams of the circuit on a perfboard showing which component connect to which. That is the simplest way to represent electronic circuit in my opinion.There are a few solutions out there for LED strips that can be controlled with Alexa or Google Home. A bit costly as compared to making it yourself, but if you are unsure with electronics, that is a straightforward route.

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  • Alexa Controlled Bookshelf Lighting

    You can follow this instructable to make your own:https://www.instructables.com/Joker-Mosaic/Justice is served 😁

    As mentioned in Step-14, I used fauxmoESP for connecting ESP32 to Alexa. You can also use something like IFTTT for home automation.

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  • FS-Touch Bed Levelling Tool

    I used the 5V version. But you could use the 3.3V version as well without any problem. The 7-segment display will will be a bit dim so you can replace the 2K2 resistors with something like 1K.I'm not currently selling these, though I do have plans of releasing an upgraded version in the future, maybe even a small batch for sale. You can order the PCB from chinese PCB manufacturers for very cheap.

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  • Alexa Controlled Bookshelf Lighting

    Thanks Jessy. That space was just screaming for a bookshelf. Maybe that was the intended purpose but the last owners never put any shelves in.

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  • FS-Touch Bed Levelling Tool

    Thanks for making the project. Would love it if you would post it in the 'I Made It' section.That's a very weird problem you mention, if it was working earlier and now manifests in 2 FS-Touch simultaneously.The only reason it should be stuck at 5 is if the button is shorted or continuously pressed. The only other reason is if the timers on Arduino stop working.Maybe also check whether the FSR sensors are damaged or disconnected? Are you swapping out a single sensor between the two devices?

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      • Samytronix Pi: DIY Raspberry Pi Desktop Computer (with Accessible GPIO)
      • Circuit Learn NANO: One PCB. Easy to Learn. Infinite Posibilities.
      • REAL 3D Wireframe Acrylic Table Lamp
  • FS-Touch Bed Levelling Tool

    An auto-levelling bed sounds like a great idea. I think a few 3D printers, especially SLA ones, have implemented that. But would love a DIY version.

    Tindie is just what I've been looking for. I've been considering selling a few projects as kits but putting so much money and effort (mostly shipping, customs, website, etc.) has been a deterrent, when the projects are too small for something like Kickstarter. I'll give it a go for sure soon.I have no problem sharing the milling files but since they are created for my particular end-mills, I'm not sure if everyone wants that. It would be akin to sharing gcode instead of STL for 3D printing. Still, will put them up and share with you.I imported the Gerber files into FlatCAM for creating the NC files. There are a lot of tutorials out there how to do this. Then I prefer Candle(https://github.com/Denvi/Candle) for running the NC files on CNC. I like candle because it is open source, simple an…

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    Tindie is just what I've been looking for. I've been considering selling a few projects as kits but putting so much money and effort (mostly shipping, customs, website, etc.) has been a deterrent, when the projects are too small for something like Kickstarter. I'll give it a go for sure soon.I have no problem sharing the milling files but since they are created for my particular end-mills, I'm not sure if everyone wants that. It would be akin to sharing gcode instead of STL for 3D printing. Still, will put them up and share with you.I imported the Gerber files into FlatCAM for creating the NC files. There are a lot of tutorials out there how to do this. Then I prefer Candle(https://github.com/Denvi/Candle) for running the NC files on CNC. I like candle because it is open source, simple and allows mesh bed mapping(which is very important for PCB manufacturing)Thanks for typing out such a detailed comment and pointing me to Tindie and the commercial opportunities for the project. I'm glad the project inspired you to get back into tinkering and making.

    It's not connected to PC, just a power bank for supplying power. You can make it battery powered as well but I wanted it to have a small form factor and keep it simple so didn't include it.

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  • Arduino Line Follower Wallrides Classroom Whiteboard

    Yes it is much easier. It is probably just the apprehension of jumping into something new and once you've tried it, it will seem trivial.Steps to program:1. Download and Install Arduino software (called Arduino IDE).2. Download the code(called a sketch).3. Connect Arduino to PC using USB cable.4. Select the model of your Arduino and its port. Usually just one option for port will come if a single device is connected.5. Click on upload, wait for it to finish, and you are done.There are plenty of tutorials online which you can follow for more help. If you try it out, you can message me for help.

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  • Antzy Carmasaic commented on runciblefish's instructable Firenado Lamp
    Firenado Lamp

    Does it need to be windy for it to work? Or do you need to get the aur flow ghont by blowing in the spaces between the glass? Or does the continuous airflow happen by itself due to rising hot air?

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  • Gingerbread 3D Printer

    Just replace 'house' with '3D printer' (Comic by Cyanide and Happiness)

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  • The Unpluginator - Self-Unplugging Useless Box

    I can relate: "Don't wake me up, let me sleep"

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  • FS-Touch Bed Levelling Tool

    Changed the schematic and board diagrams as well as files with the correction.

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  • FS-Touch Bed Levelling Tool

    Oh wow. That is a textbook rookie mistake right there. Yes it should have been connected to pin 22. Surprisingly, it worked because the reset pin on the pro micro is active low, and so, is most probably pulled up by connecting it to VCC across a resistor. Thankfully, I'm only pulling 2.2mA at an average and 11mA max.Thanks for the eye opener. Will fix and put up the corrected schematics as soon as I get a bit of time.

    Thanks for pointing that out. Usually put it up the image export for the schematic along with the PCB board design but missed it out this time. Have uploaded the schematic diagram on step-3. Here is the direct link to the image:https://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FTB/MFXP/K0MP4RLY/FTBMFXPK0MP4RLY.LARGE.jpg

    I think that is a but too small for this project. Go for one that can atleast take 1kg. I don't have the part number for the one I used but it seems to be 100g-10kg one.

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  • FS-Touch Bed Levelling Tool

    The board is available on sparkfun:https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12640I got it from Amazon and it is quite widely available.

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    • FS-Touch Bed Levelling Tool
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  • FS-Touch Bed Levelling Tool

    That's true and I have already mentioned that in the last step. So the solution I propose is that the initial calibration with paper should be done on a heated bed. Then the bed is allowed to cool down and value is stored in FS-Touch as reference. When the bed heats up, it should go back to the proper calibrated distance. So this saved reference value can be used again in future to re-calibrate the bed.

    Thank you. I posted this project on FB and received several request for buying it as a kit. I'm frankly surprised by this much interest for something that is just a prototype/proof of concept. I'm considering making an improved version and running a tiny batch for sale. Still divided on it though.

    I tackled this problem in the last step. twhite101 had also put up a similar query and I have answered it in extra details in his comment. Please check that.

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  • Raspberry Pi Zero Guitar Pedal

    Thank you for your reply. If they have Plated Through Holes, then it isn't possible to home-fabricate it easily. Since there are no gerbers, I think the only way forward is to recreate the PCB from the copper transfers you have shared. That way I can add vias instead of PTH holes and export as gerber too to make it on my CNC. I'll probably make it on Eagle, so if you are interested, I could send it to you so it could be shared with a larger audience(not everyone uses KiCad :)

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  • FS-Touch Bed Levelling Tool

    Wow. What kind of a printer has 50 levelling points?Yes, as you mention, all the levelling points will be at the same level but it can be too low or too high. But most printers with stock firmware do not allow changing Z-offset, and even if they do, it isn't saved in non-volatile memory. That's why I was mentioning adjustment using Z-offset. But have added a line at the last step for people who do have that option.

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  • Raspberry Pi Zero Guitar Pedal

    Great project! It's amazing what all you have managed to do on Arduino and now on a rpi. I looked through all of your pedals and found that Pedal-Pi is the best option(Due is more complex and less powerful?). Have ordered the parts from Aliexpress(hope they all fit) and looking forward to making the PCB. I do have a few queries which I hope you can answer:1. Do these have PTH? I do see that you have posted front and back image exports for home-fabrication.2. Do you have gerbers available? I would like to make them on my CNC mill and can't do that with image files.3. The board holes for stomp switch are pretty small for the pins for that part. Shouldn't they be elongated slots? It looks like the board in the Blitz City DIY video have correct holes.

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      • Arduino MEGA Guitar Pedal
      • Raspberry Pi Zero Guitar Pedal
      • Arduino UNO Guitar Pedal - Open Hardware.
  • FS-Touch Bed Levelling Tool

    I agree. Battery would be neat but then it would become too thick and I would need to remove the arduino and implement it in the PCB. That was a lot of work so I simple use a power bank to power it.

    Thank you! That was the idea of trying to show the force value in an analog way(through rotation). Showing rapidly changing numbers on a screen is not easy to track, since the values jump around a lot.

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  • Thermochromic Temperature & Humidity Display

    Loved the concept. Refresh rate is a bit low but works for the use case ;P

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  • How to Make a Softstarter

    Nice project and explanation. I was thinking that you could reverse the RC-Mosfet circuit to make it switch on the relay when power is switched on, and cut off the power when the capacitor charges after 1 second. Then connect the power resistor to NO instead of NC of relay. This way the relay is only energized in the starting 1 second and you save the 0.5W power which is being wasted.

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  • I used to love reading these interviews with different makers. Happy to see it back and great first choice.

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      • 3D Printed Vacuum Cleaner for a CNC Machine
      • DIY 3D Printed Dremel CNC
      • 3D Printed Snowmobile
  • Amazing project and a very detailed and well written instructable.

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      • Opensource Ornithopter Prototype. Arduino Powered and Remote Controlled.
      • Christmas Tree Light Controlled by a Toy.
      • Arduino Energy Cost Electrical Meter Device
  • Loved it. As you said, everyone is asking for something more permanent, but using paints will spoil the pavement/road and will be counted as graffiti. So why not use environment friendly graffiti: the moss grafitti.https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Make-Moss-Graffiti-1/There is a significant challenge in squirting liquid with small particles in it. But could end up looking pretty cool.

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  • The way light leaks into nearby unilluminated balls creating a gradient looks very pleasing to the eye while the numbers are also clearly visible.

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  • Loved the video. Your son kept saying 'It's not funny' while unable to stop himself from laughing. Your pure laugh of glee from embarassing your teenage son was too contagious.

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      • Designing a Simple 3D Printed Rubber Band Car Using Autodesk Fusion 360
      • Windup Bunny 2 With a PLA Spring Motor and Floating Pinion Drive
      • Floating Pinion Demonstrator 2
  • Very interesting project with extremely simplified controls which is perfect for kids.A feature that can be added is using another button for last-frame-overlay, where the previous frame is shown on top of the video feed with 30-50% transparency. This helps in aligning the characters very precisely in reference to the previous frame and makes the animation much smoother and easier.

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  • Liked it. This makes your foot your third hand. I used the same mechanism for my Speed Controller Drill Press instructable.

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  • I have been planning since forever to make something like this. Maybe now I will...

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  • That mechanism is so well made. Nothing is visible even though it's all wire mesh design. The final effect looks pretty cool.

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  • Lovely toy to make for kids on the weekend. Thanks for sharing.

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      • PCB Business Card With NFC
      • $1 PCB Christmas Tree
      • OscilloPhone: Use Your Smartphone As an Oscilloscope / Signal Generator
  • Best card ever. I've seen electronics embedded cards but the biggest drawback is they require a battery. You design used NFC to get rid of the battery and transmit information creatively. That's killing 2 birds with one stone.

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  • Antzy Carmasaic commented on ThomasVDD's instructable Upgrade Your CNC

    1. How do you define stock origin in the gcode and where do you place the stock once it is homed?3. Can you provide any reference feed rates you are able to achieve? I'm curious how much I can push the machine.7. That's a nice instructable. I was following a similar method for making PCBs. I really liked the PTH and silkscreen method. Though my solder mask will come off if I sanded it I believe.

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  • Antzy Carmasaic commented on ThomasVDD's instructable Upgrade Your CNC

    Awesome instructable! I have the same 3018 and had planned a lot of these upgrades. Thanks for figuring them out and helping show the way. I'm quite excited working with CNC and have a lot of queries and suggestions:1. I wanted to put limit switches to keep it from crashing but don't get the benefit of enabling homing. In Fusion360, I keep the origin on top surface with respect to stock. So I'm not sure of the benefit of setting you cnc origin with respect to machine instead of stock?2. What is the use of lasers you placed next to the spindle? They look too weak for engraving.3. What cutting feed rate were you able to achieve before and after replacing the spindle? While cutting plywood at 1mm depth pass, I can only go till 50-60 mm per min feed rate or the machine starts making a lot of …

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    Awesome instructable! I have the same 3018 and had planned a lot of these upgrades. Thanks for figuring them out and helping show the way. I'm quite excited working with CNC and have a lot of queries and suggestions:1. I wanted to put limit switches to keep it from crashing but don't get the benefit of enabling homing. In Fusion360, I keep the origin on top surface with respect to stock. So I'm not sure of the benefit of setting you cnc origin with respect to machine instead of stock?2. What is the use of lasers you placed next to the spindle? They look too weak for engraving.3. What cutting feed rate were you able to achieve before and after replacing the spindle? While cutting plywood at 1mm depth pass, I can only go till 50-60 mm per min feed rate or the machine starts making a lot of unpleasant noise.4. I loved your enclosure. I had something similar in mind to keep noise, shavings and dust enclosed and keep the 5.5W laser inside an opaque box. But I also plan on installing a dust collector shoe. MDF dust gets everywhere including the linear bearings and may decrease their life. Also less cleanup later on.5. Another mod I wanted to implement is a jog controller. The newer 3018 on AliExpress have boards with external jog controller and SD card support for running it without a PC.6. I liked your Bluetooth control mod. To free up my PC, I have connected a Raspberry Pi with bCNC to the machine. That way, I can wirelessly upload gcode files and even control it from my mobile.7. I have also glued a MDF spoilboard to the base and cut grooves into it for clamps. That has been very beneficial. I like the PCB holder base you used. Do you have files for it as well?

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  • Antzy Carmasaic commented on ThomasVDD's instructable Upgrade Your CNC

    Go for it. Choose a model on AliExpress which has a lot of orders and reviews. That way you will have very less chances of getting something bad. I got the same and it has been a great experience for learning CNC.

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  • That's a great project. I'm happy to see you included all the safety measures in it.I had the same problem of less working time out of my old laptop battery. So I got a new battery and now if the battery dies, I can hibernate the laptop(it auto hibernate when battery level drops), switch out the battery and continue working. Much simpler method but yours is much cooler :)

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  • Great idea! I do it with shift registers and transistor array ICs but this is much more modular. Also the brightness control is a plus and I like how the digits fade into reach other. It is a shame that one pin gets wasted. I could help you out with wiring the library if you are still looking for help.

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  • When in dome, do as the domans do.I make interactive installations as my full time job and I found this very informative. We had to do an interactive dome projection mapping and had a tough time figuring out an algo that included crowd interactions. Thanks for sharing and the effect looks pretty sweet.

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  • Your project is pretty cool but the way you made your battery pack by connecting 3 LiPo batteries in parallel is not the best way. It is always better to buy a higher capacity battery instead of parallel connecting 3.Since a lot of people are replicating your instructable, it would be good if you could direct them to buying a bigger capacity battery instead. You might use the parallel battery pack without any problem (except reduced battery life in the long run) or might have catastrophic failure. It all depends from person to person.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/what-do-i-need-to-know-about-paralleling-li-ion-li-poly-batteries/There is also a recent instructable on charging 18650 Li-Ion cells in parallel in a proper load balanced manner. https://www.instructables.com/DIY-18650-L…

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    Your project is pretty cool but the way you made your battery pack by connecting 3 LiPo batteries in parallel is not the best way. It is always better to buy a higher capacity battery instead of parallel connecting 3.Since a lot of people are replicating your instructable, it would be good if you could direct them to buying a bigger capacity battery instead. You might use the parallel battery pack without any problem (except reduced battery life in the long run) or might have catastrophic failure. It all depends from person to person.https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/what-do-i-need-to-know-about-paralleling-li-ion-li-poly-batteries/There is also a recent instructable on charging 18650 Li-Ion cells in parallel in a proper load balanced manner. https://www.instructables.com/DIY-18650-Lithium-Ion-Cells-Charging-Grid/Don't mean to put down your project. I think it is pretty cool. But sharing this info with the people following your design could save a few of them a lot of headache.

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  • Beautiful project. An easy upgrade but very useful upgrade I could immediately think of is controlling the depth the pen goes down. That will change the size of the dot. I can see that has happened already in parts of some prints (by mistake?). Then you can make even more beautiful images by using a technique called 'halftone' which will allow you to have gradients.

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  • Alternate title: How to get the most out of your woodworking workshop.I like the level of dedication to penny pinching University attitude but still coming out with something that looks as good as store bought.

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  • Googling a video of Springrazor along with your images put me off of trying this(I didn't need those springs all that bad much anyways). I'd much rather salvage them from dismantled devices. You have shared a valuable lesson in safety while following this instructable. Good to see you got it working in the end.

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  • Wow. A very detailed costume. I really dig the alien head beneath the armoured mask.

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  • Stop screwing around with alien tech no one understands. Who knows what might happen?Cool project though :)

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