Cekpi7

Same size as old one, you can just measure it.If you somehow don't have old fuse, check manual or labels on multimeter. I usually came across 5x20mm and 10x38mm fuses in multimeters, F10A (for 10A range).

Soft bristle brush would be ideal. You could also use compressed air or soft towel/cloth. It's used to clean out dust so it doesn't really matter which one you choose.

It would be possible, you just need a decent 5V regulator, some batteries, solar panel and charge controller.Easiest way would be to install a solar panel with 12V batteries and then use step down converter to get 5V out of it.

There are two options:a) Use inverter that can supply at least 1250VA and hook it up as you would normally inside of a houseb) Get car amplifier and hook it up to that.Either way, you are gonna need to get power from your battery in the front to the boot and RCAs from your headunit.There is a third option but i wouldn't really recommend it, if you have rear speaker outputs in your trunk you could hook them up to that, but don't expect more than 15-20W because most headunits won't do more than that.

Things have changed so much in last 3 years,Alpine AM4 passive wasn't even on market back then :). I'm using R5 2600 undervolted and it cool it with 120mm fan at 150rpm which is inaudible. It's possible to turn it off during idle, but that wouldn't make sense for something like this build.SSD is no brainer these days, prices went down a lot and i don't even consider HDD unless you need ton of space.Is this still running or did you upgrade it?

Try to get power wires as far away as possible from signal wires.

If I'm not mistaken, that amplifier has 40A fuse so you should get something that can supply more than that. I think that 500W+ ATX psu should be fine. In case of Xbox one you should turn down gain since you were probably clipping the signal which probably made amplifier draw a lot more current than psu can supply and it resulted in psu protection circuit tripping.

BMS is not for charging but it would help, i actually added it about year later.I still have this flashlight, i usually charge it to 12.3V with power supply (since charging my upgraded pack with 1A would be too slow) and cells are pretty balanced (there is 4pin connector for balancing if there will be need for it). I replaced original battery pack since batteries are much better than they were 5 years ago, it now has 3S6P pack with capacity of 15Ah which is plenty of power for me. Same goes with chargers, 5pcs of TP4056 were only like 2$ while proper charger was 20-30$, these days you can get Imax B6 for 10$ and charge it properly.

I can't find anything online, i think it uses 0603, you can open watch and measure dimensions of LED, compare it to other sizes and verify. It should work if it fits.

Carbon tubes are almost impossible to crush or bend so it would mostly apply to aluminum tubes. It's easier to repaint damaged seat post than frame or just replace it, i guess you could just rotate vice for 90 degrees.Things happen, better be safe than sorry.

You need RMS power, i can find 2 amplifiers (4ch and monoblock), if it's 4ch then you could get much less since it uses 3x35A fuses (it shouldn't draw much higher than 100A). You could get something like SPS100.4 from DD audio and link two of them for 200A, or RSP3000-12V. Most solutions you find will probably cost more than proper house amplifier so keep that in mind.

Since it's rated at 2x85W (at 2 ohms) you would need at least 20-25A PSU. Transformers aren't really good since they would require some sort of voltage stabilization (since unloaded rectified voltage can jump over 16V which is max for most amps). You could get PC ATX (lower power model could work but make sure that it's rated at more than 25A on 12V rail). Other option would be 12V SMPS but those are a bit more expensive than standard ATX power supply.

Are you sure it's square wave? It sounds like it could be ground loop issue. I tried many things to do but with some amps it's just really hard to get rid of it. One thing that helped me the most was isolating ground (earth) connection on psu. You could try different psu (or battery in this case) to see if that removes the hum, but make sure that your battery can output enough current. It could be your PSU that is causing interference and this you will know with this test. Can you hear hum without anything connected to the audio inputs? Does your receiver output clean audio signal?

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Where did you look at prices? Deep cycle batteries are really cheap, smaller ones are usually same price as starter batteries.This one is 24$ for 9Ah battery.Building your own using lithium cells might even be better if you can find good deal, i made 3S3P pack with 9Ah capacity for about 10$. I wrote this comment since he said that his battery gives him 96Wh of usable capacity, that is nowhere close to what you would usually get out of one without damaging it, also lead acid batteries discharge itself quite a lot so if you have bike that is sitting in a garage for some time or battery sitting on a shelf, it might be dead by the time you have to use it.

Please don't use starter batteries for this kinds of loads, you can safely discharge 30-50% of it's capacity, everything more that that will eat up electrodes and you will damage the battery. Instead, get deep cycle lead acid or lithium batteries. Other than that, great project, maybe it would be useful to also add 12V socket so you can hook up other things like 12V LED bulbs.

Only thing i can think of is isolation, these are not isolated at all and i wouldn't put these nowhere anything that's over 50V. Not to mention they can easily short other terminal, for example if one of these was on positive terminal and casing (or car chassis) was ground, one wrong move and this will be glowing red.They can be useful in some cases though.

Older cars don't have OBD but they have signal wire, this should work on pretty much any car.

For testing 12V battery and 5A psu should be more than enough (which is what i use), for listening however you would need way more than 100W panel, class AB amps can draw 20-30W just by sitting idle, my 2kW ground zero amplifier draws 20W at idle and it's class D. If you have 2 amps (one for sub, one for mids-higs) that would draw as much as panel would put out during cloudy day.100Ah battery would help with high current draw but SMPS PSU is best option, or high current 12V charger like CTEK makes but those are really expensive.

This doesn't make sense to me but i'm gonna try it, i have grounding bracelet and i'm gonna bridge that 1M resistor in it. Can't really get good sleep recently so i got nothing to lose :).

Yeah, i was thinking about yellow but wrote orange for some reason.My idea was like GoryashchiyeKlyuchi's design but with plastic instead of epoxy.I don't like look of naked led display.

Yeah, i was thinking about yellow but wrote orange for some reason.My idea was like GoryashchiyeKlyuchi's design but with plastic instead of epoxy.For some reason i don't like look of naked led display.

You can connect it to digital pin and turn it on for a 1-2ms which is enough for arduino to read moisture, this way there was lot less corrosion.

Would be cool if you could get orange leds or put some sort of filter in front of red ones and fake glass so it would look like nixie tubes.

50-60A psu should work fine with 300W class D amp. As a good rule of thumb you should get psu that can produce same or higher current than fuses can take (usually 30-40A on 300W amp). Car batteries are usually made just to start car and not really for discharging them completely so if you would go that route you should use deep cycle battery. Constant trickle charge is not good, with open batteries it will produce a lot of hydrogen and that won't be good if you use it indoors, SLA on the other hand might lose some of acid (due to evaporation) and since they are closed you can't add it (you can but it's a bit more complicated).

Depending on power of amplifier and power supplies. You can always turn down gain on amplifier.

You are partly right, this isn't ideal setup.Since TP4056 can only supply 1A to 18650 that means that you simply can't get more than 3-4W of constant power but you can get a bit higher peak (5-6W). There is also a problem with charging and powering router at the same time since when there is power loss and your power turns back on you are gonna have to recharge battery and power your router for that period so you might get only 2-3W of usable output. Some routers can work with really low power (12V 100mA = 1.2W) but for some of them this might be problem.

You should use diode like shown on schematics and explained in step 4 since you can burn some PSUs by feeding 12V to their output. There is a chance of overcharging your batteries if you have PSU that can deliver more than 14V so it's good idea to use switch to turn off psu, in case you are listening at higher levels you are gonna ask for a lot of current from battery so there is very small chance of actually overcharging battery. Alternative is to set PSU to 13-13.5V since this is safe voltage to let your battery sit at or even get charge controller.

Yes, it can be charged on any usb port (5V, at least 500mA)

Where did you buy enclosure? I really like how you made things, however you should put heatsink on chip, even small one. You have a lot of room in your enclosure so it shouldn't be the problem.

Thanks for information, sadly i don't think removing picture will do anything since you can clearly see that ring back on every picture in next step. Most of the times that paper ring is not holding on cell with glue so it will fall off, this is just precaution to not throw it away or forget about it. I am however gonna bold those important thing and add warning.

Thanks for information, sadly i don't think removing picture will do anything since you can clearly see that ring back on every picture in next step. Most of the times that paper ring is not holding on cell with glue so it will fall off, this is just precaution to not throw it away or forget about it. I am however gonna bold those important things and add warning.

These are all basic things, not really worth mentioning.Congrats on your first instructable though.

Agree, but when you have a lot of power and much bigger system than stock then you want something like DSP to take care of it all. You don't really want to blow your 1000$ tweeters because you ran them too low.