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50Instructables621,632Views5,905CommentsAustraliaJoined June 11th, 2009
I like to improve myself and things I find :) Learning new things every day is next to impossible but I still try - only a working brain can work. I have no special sector to cover, electronics, electrical stuff, 3D printing, restoring old clocks and furniture. Whatever sounds interesting I try it. In my spare time I love to fly big kites, go fishing or simply go bush in 4WD to find a good fishing spot. Active spam fighter!

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  • Downunder35m commented on chenane's forum topic Bluetooth1 hour ago

    Same way as every file transfer or steaming over WiFi.without knowing any of your detailed intentions there is not much to go on.If you want to "spam" people passing by with ads or similar they id not agree too then check the local and council laws first - otherwise it can end up very costly....

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  • X96 (S905x) Android TV Box - Updating the Firmware and Costom Roms

    I am not forcing you to do anything...And no clue either what a premium account would have to do with a firmware update - sorry...

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  • Downunder35m commented on leaf26's forum topic Where to start on a custom LED stand?23 hours ago

    You can get ready to go stands as a mirror platform for crystals and figurines.Colors fade in and out while the platform rotates.Might be an alternative to check on Fleabuy for one and compare the price to what you have in mind.

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  • If it is a k type with 10kOhm then you should not have to adjust anything.The temp read should be within 2 or 3 degrees of reality.Without all the datasheet info that is needed to set a new table you won't be able to program it.And even then it will not be very accurate.Did you consider a different type of thermo coupler?And it might help to set all to default values before doing more adjustments.As said, with the correct thermo couple you won't need to adjust anything.

    It seems to be obvious that your thermo couple is not the type set as default in the settings.The old models came with a little booklet that stated the default setting - and to which type of thermocouple it was set.If the basic values are all over the place then adjusting them won't help as the base line is totally different.Check if find the type setting and select what else is available here.Do a temp check with ice cubes in water to confirm you are close to zero and boiling hot water to confirm close to 100°C.If not anywhere close try another type setting.The only other option, that might be locked on newer models, is to get the datasheet and program the values for thermocouple manually.

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  • Downunder35m commented on methaq_ali's forum topic ESP8266 MEMORY ADDRESS2 days ago

    Sorry, then my knowledge is a bit too limited to be of further help here :(

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  • Don't know the lamp, don't know the real problem, but I will try to solve it anyways ;)In most cases there is no Acrylic used as it can be very brittle.Polycarbonate is the way to go ;)No clue where to get it in strings, so using an extruder might be a good option.Pellets are heated, the extruder pushed the molten stuff through a tube.Let it run through a water bath to cool or just let it run free.To form them just throw the strings into boiling hot water until they go soft.Form as you like and let cool down.If even strings are required then cut the length right at the extruder.Did not check but with a bit of luck you can now get polycarbonate filament for 3D printers - if available clear or in the color you like then use it directly ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on Toga_Dan's forum topic What's this woodcarving tool?2 days ago

    If you mean the big, curved blade it is just that, a blade.In many cases they are purpose made by the master himself.Like the planer you use by hand to shave off some wood, this curved blade allows you to control the angle of both cut and surface.I was never good with these, so I prefe to use smaller tools.

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  • Downunder35m commented on methaq_ali's forum topic ESP8266 MEMORY ADDRESS3 days ago

    Are you sure it is not just a problem with your protocols?AFIAK the memory addressing is meant for the blocks you want to use for your purpose.Basically like writing the data into a buffer.Don't know about the 5 digits but assume your problem is within the data handling.Right now you have it going into the digital nirvana so to say.Did you try to let the incoming data run into a specified memeory area to be overwritten once read already?

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  • I think that is part of the problem here ;)You might be an expert in your field but not that much in the technical department - no offence!Just to get on the same page here:You have something on a plate or similar, maybe a bunch of items.You want to take pic of these items once they got pushed up into the air.Preferably of course with a lot of light and short exposure times.For that I amfar from being an expert as I simply don't use a camera often enough.But I have done quite a bit of time sensitive pneumatics and hydraulics over the years.As you seem to insist on going this route:Normal operating pressure for air cylinders is in the region of 4 -12 bar.The faster you want to move the piston, the more air air pressure you need.Depending on the cylinder size also a suitable pressure vess...

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    I think that is part of the problem here ;)You might be an expert in your field but not that much in the technical department - no offence!Just to get on the same page here:You have something on a plate or similar, maybe a bunch of items.You want to take pic of these items once they got pushed up into the air.Preferably of course with a lot of light and short exposure times.For that I amfar from being an expert as I simply don't use a camera often enough.But I have done quite a bit of time sensitive pneumatics and hydraulics over the years.As you seem to insist on going this route:Normal operating pressure for air cylinders is in the region of 4 -12 bar.The faster you want to move the piston, the more air air pressure you need.Depending on the cylinder size also a suitable pressure vessel to store enough air.A proper sized compressor will do here.Now for some fineprint...If you let a cylinder just slam into the other end enough times then your cylinder will fail really quickly.That means for such operations the exit valve on said cylinder is usually closed before the piston can reach the end - like an air cushion to stop the impact on the metal.Best control option here is to use reed contacts embedded into the cylinder or added on the outside.You big problem however is not really the firing and timing for this action.Your problem is to get enough acceleration in a set amount of time to make the things fly up - in a controlled way.For instant high pressure in the cylinder you need big valves that act quickly.Again no big deal.But the mechanical part of all will be.If I assume you need a minimum throw height of 10cm then of course you also need a cylinder with at least 10cm lift.Not to reach the disatance but to ensure you get enough acceleration during the movement time of the piston.Said speed must be higher than the lift off speed of your items.Lets say you matched all parts to do just this.You then would need precise high speed timers to set your camera.Even with those it can be tricky as the cylinder will not always move as expected!In time critical applications the air is kept really dry, the calinder well oiled and much more just to ensure the working conditions stay within tolerances for as long as possible.I think I can see what you are trying but did you consider to do it the other way around to have it much easier?Thinking of freefall here and just "dropping" the platform with the cylinder...Less time sensitive, less complex for the mechanics and timers...And in reality the same result in the pic apart from the fact that odd shaped items will stil fall straight instead of going a bit sideways or tumbling around.

    There is no real math required if you only need single shots anyway.You have a given volume of air for the cylinder.Same for the cylinder of the compressor - or the extra air tank if you use a tiny compressor instead.What you want to do is keep volume and distance of movement as limited as possible.A small and just finger thick cylinder will be able to push quite a lot of light parts.But it will struggle to produce the force required to do hard work with a heavy platfor or heavy parts on it.A short but thick cylinder might be best suited.Preferably one that has some build in protection so you won't have to bother about the impact when the piston hits the other end.Most industrial cylinders will do fine here.That then only leaves the air volume and required pressure.As said, around 8 bar...

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    There is no real math required if you only need single shots anyway.You have a given volume of air for the cylinder.Same for the cylinder of the compressor - or the extra air tank if you use a tiny compressor instead.What you want to do is keep volume and distance of movement as limited as possible.A small and just finger thick cylinder will be able to push quite a lot of light parts.But it will struggle to produce the force required to do hard work with a heavy platfor or heavy parts on it.A short but thick cylinder might be best suited.Preferably one that has some build in protection so you won't have to bother about the impact when the piston hits the other end.Most industrial cylinders will do fine here.That then only leaves the air volume and required pressure.As said, around 8 bar is standard anyway and tha is what every cheap compressor will offer you.If you ask in a supply store for a pneumatic cylinder that has your max travel distance, fast speed and the right volume for single use with a standard compressor they will be able to offer you a selection.From experience I tend to say that larger diameter hoses and the valve close to the cylinder in question works best.Having all on the compressor side with just a thin hose going to the cylinder can reduce the travel speed slightly.I don't know if can find any cheap ways of obtaining one but there are magnetic "actuators" out there.Often used for locking machanisms but if in doubt "ancient" industrial relays can be modifed for this purpose too.What happens is that with the inrush or current the magent will either push or pull on a core.Travel distance is usually just around 1-2cm unless you make your own piston and add some strong neodymium magnets to it.Would be the cheapest option if you can score a suitable electromagnetic actuator or old and big relay.

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  • Ok, took me only about 80 reloads and half an hour of swearing to be able to enter text in this box here, lets see if it makes it all the way...Forget about rotary encoders!Been there, done that, learnt my lesson the hard and costly way.Assuming it is not a diesel engine you can utilise the ignition impulses together with calculations for the gear used, wheel diameter and so on.Quite accurate but a pain to program.Gave up on that one too once I realised it takes me longer to calculate everything then building the electronics required for it.The light bulb moment came on a bike ride with my little niece.If it works so well on a push bike then why not use the same simple tricks on a real bike?Ok, I was lazy and just added a bicycle speedometer with trip counter and so on ;)But the same si...

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    Ok, took me only about 80 reloads and half an hour of swearing to be able to enter text in this box here, lets see if it makes it all the way...Forget about rotary encoders!Been there, done that, learnt my lesson the hard and costly way.Assuming it is not a diesel engine you can utilise the ignition impulses together with calculations for the gear used, wheel diameter and so on.Quite accurate but a pain to program.Gave up on that one too once I realised it takes me longer to calculate everything then building the electronics required for it.The light bulb moment came on a bike ride with my little niece.If it works so well on a push bike then why not use the same simple tricks on a real bike?Ok, I was lazy and just added a bicycle speedometer with trip counter and so on ;)But the same simple reed contact from such a cheap "toy" can be used as the input for small Arduino or Pie.One imulse per revolution of the wheel.All that is left is to calculate the circumfence of the wheel to make it highly accurate.Some hints:Programming something to display your speed and trip data is not really hard.Getting the data can be depending on the bike.Mine was a Maico dirt bike with 500ccm in one cylinder...That meant huge forks, ots of empty space.To make the reed contact work with a magnet I used two small neodymium magnets glued (with quality epoxy) to little screw on studs - you know similar to those holding reflectors on the bike spokes.Two because it prevents any imbalance on the wheel ;)Easiest placement was on the rear wheel as the chain guards lower part was quite close to the inner spokes already.In some cases it is possible to use a proximity sensor directly on the axle of shaft for the front sprocket of the chain.If it has one or more groves for alignment then the sensor can pick on them.That is if you have enough room to securely mount it in the right place.Last and high tech option for the pro:Sensors or cams that check the road surface - like a laser computer mouse.But then again using a simple GPS module would give the same results for the screen on the dash ;)

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  • I have no clue why this simple task is not working but am sure the developery will know all about it:It is often impossible to reply to a topic, especially if it contains images.No text input possible, no cursor, no nothing.How is one supposed to post if it is not possible to enter text?Tried reloading the page endless times, used Chrome instead of Firefox and even tried on the tablet - no chance.Might explain why so many topics remain unansered - the people just gave up trying ROFL

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  • Downunder35m commented on chenane's forum topic Bluetooth3 days ago

    BT is not really optimised or suited for video.As just data streams it is possible though, even together with audio but the available speed might be an issue.You can compensate by osing it "offline", meaning the data is sent and once complete the receiving device just updates what is shown.Far easier would be to use WiFi instead.

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  • Makes it a bit harder though.Start by disconnecting the thick flat cables on the terminals so you can measure the single rods.I assume they will all be connected in the same way somewhere at the bottom but that should not matter too much.If you can follow the power supply cable you should be able to figure out how and where the power runs.Please mark everything you take off or take pics so you get it back together the same way.Now assuming the rods are all connected in parallel:If you measure the top of tow rods you should get a resistance value - this by half is for a singlerod and the all should be roughly the same.Keep in mind the resistance will be quite low, so a dirt cheap tester from the local discounter might not be accurate enough.In case all are equal and even they should be s...

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    Makes it a bit harder though.Start by disconnecting the thick flat cables on the terminals so you can measure the single rods.I assume they will all be connected in the same way somewhere at the bottom but that should not matter too much.If you can follow the power supply cable you should be able to figure out how and where the power runs.Please mark everything you take off or take pics so you get it back together the same way.Now assuming the rods are all connected in parallel:If you measure the top of tow rods you should get a resistance value - this by half is for a singlerod and the all should be roughly the same.Keep in mind the resistance will be quite low, so a dirt cheap tester from the local discounter might not be accurate enough.In case all are equal and even they should be still fine and in working order.Problem is the unknown supply voltage and without that it is next to impossible to figure out what current you will need.The rods are quite thick, so lets assume measured from the top you get 5 Ohm for two.That means only 2.5 Ohm for a single rod.I guess you are US, so 120V mains devided by 2.5 Ohm gives us 48 Amps per rod!For 10 rods you then need close to 500A :(Per rod close to 6kW...In this case it would almost impossible to use this without a transformer that has an output of around 48V or less.How much a rod can take in terms of watt is limited by the max temp it can tolerate.I suggest this:Try to figure out how the bottom ends of the rods are connected.Make a simple drawing where you replace the rods with resistors.So all parallel rods as resistors in parallel and all rods in series as resistors in series.Do this from the live part of the power cable to the neutral cable.With that sorted you can start to measure the rods, works best if you mark them and the resistors in the drawing with numbers ;)Add the measured values to the dawing.From there it should be able to figure out a way how you can power this beast up without ending in a dark and powerless neighbourhood ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on hobbit590's forum topic In over my head - pH automation4 days ago

    The real problem of maintaining good PH levels in a tank is not how to modify them.It is creating a habitat that does not need adjusting and regulating.Been there done that....A lot of modern tanks are only for the looks and sadly not for function in terms of a working eco system.Having said that:There are quite a few PH control solutions out there.The often insane prices are partially justified because only people desperate enough to fix their tank have a real need to them.Thing is PH does not change quickly if standard things are used.So overdosing either direction from perfect is quite easy.A high PH is quite easy to fix by adding diluted hydrochloric acid, vinegar (the clean stuff only) or othe food suited acids.Hydrochloric acid is my favourite as the possible by-products are far l...

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    The real problem of maintaining good PH levels in a tank is not how to modify them.It is creating a habitat that does not need adjusting and regulating.Been there done that....A lot of modern tanks are only for the looks and sadly not for function in terms of a working eco system.Having said that:There are quite a few PH control solutions out there.The often insane prices are partially justified because only people desperate enough to fix their tank have a real need to them.Thing is PH does not change quickly if standard things are used.So overdosing either direction from perfect is quite easy.A high PH is quite easy to fix by adding diluted hydrochloric acid, vinegar (the clean stuff only) or othe food suited acids.Hydrochloric acid is my favourite as the possible by-products are far less toxic as for example those from vinegar.Getting a too low PH up though can be very tricky thing.I contemplated with the idea of an automatic system a few times as my sister only has tiny tanks and with them a lot of problems due to our hot weather.So maybe some of these ideas help to get you going:A PH control system does not need to work in real time, a sample every few minutes is enough.Same for the dosage system, no matter what agent you use.The water needs a certain amount of time to be really fully circulated by the filter system.A drop of UV dye can highlight this very nicely as it takes quite long until the water has a uniform glow to it.Some time is for once on your side.Take a set number of sample, store them in some register or variable.Calculate the average PH and by how much the level went up or down during the measuring cycle.If not steady run another round of samples until only steady values are collected.Add you agent in a small amount and preferably in the outlet stream of the pump.Start over collecting samples......Once the desired level gets close, increase the number of sample and reduce the dosage amount - by at least half......Once the increased sample numbers steady close enough to the target reduce to hourly samples and keep comparing an calculating the differences.All this is well and fine but in the end it might turn out to be cheaper and easier to just get the tank up to specs instead of trying to control it from the outside.

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  • 30 million users five years ago.Since then less than 500 hits for this topic.So....An average of 100 hits per year, or just slightly over one hit per day....I guess the correct statement was: We had a lot of people looking at our website after a Google search but we lost them all now ;)

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  • It is a standard electric heater with heating coils.Just that yours are not only massive but also most likely too much for your wall plug.There should be a label somewhere with vital details....Otherwise you will need a good multimeter to check the resistance of the rods and do some calculations.Could well be designed for the use with a transformer that provides a low valtage with a few hundred amps.

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  • Two 1N4007 or similar in series will drop the voltage by about 1.4V.Since you don't need the data lines there should be no problems.

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  • Why not just use some rubber band and a lever?Not that easy to get an instant push from air cylinders but quite easy if you let a lever bang under the platform.Especially if said platform would be a stretched rubber surfce...Like a drum....

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  • Don't know if you noticed but those pumps usually run in one direction only.Some might have an outlet to suck air as well but you can not switch from pumping to sucking with a standard pump.Just use a weight and motor to lift it ;)

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  • You did not specify for what type of plastics....I actually prefer to use my filament leftovers (ABS) and Acetone or MEK to make my own ABS glue.Works really well as a brush on as well to get a nice and smooth finnish.And surprisingly it works fine for PLA as well, just nothing really for Nylo as this stuff does not like to stick to anything properly.

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  • Just go and quickly find the last reply from today here:https://www.instructables.com/topics/Motorcycle-re...Says it all...LOL

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  • If goog temp control and a good extruder is use very clos if not identical to filament bought in a shop.The only real problems I had were all related to the process itself, like making sure the diameter stays constan and the filament cools enough before winding it.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Jeepguy001's forum topic Help wth a 12v DC circuit6 days ago

    You will notice the fan still runs on 7.4V or below.With the step up converter you can literally adjust the fan speed but don't go above 15V.No need to do anything with the current as the motor(s) will only draw what they need.

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  • If you ask me then it all depends on (really) well you can print, what filament you used and what your expectations are for the recycled product.Going with fresh pellets is certainly an option that would be prefered.Next thing is the consistency.I played around with the recycling idea during my heavy duty printing times but gave up on it.PLA is not worth the efford as every tiny bit of overheating or debris in the scrap will cause problems with the recycled products.Nylon is just a total pain in the behind.ABS is the only type I considered to recycle.If you check the costs for new filament, especially in bulk quantities then you get an idea on how much money you need to save along the way.No one really buys from an unknown source unless the price is much better than the rest out there.A...

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    If you ask me then it all depends on (really) well you can print, what filament you used and what your expectations are for the recycled product.Going with fresh pellets is certainly an option that would be prefered.Next thing is the consistency.I played around with the recycling idea during my heavy duty printing times but gave up on it.PLA is not worth the efford as every tiny bit of overheating or debris in the scrap will cause problems with the recycled products.Nylon is just a total pain in the behind.ABS is the only type I considered to recycle.If you check the costs for new filament, especially in bulk quantities then you get an idea on how much money you need to save along the way.No one really buys from an unknown source unless the price is much better than the rest out there.And if then the quality does not hold up the bisiness idea can quickly backfire.When I did the math about 3 years ago it came down to buying pellets in 50kg bags to make it worth the time and money for the equippment, plus energy costs.Just one bag provides a lot of standard spools of filament that then need to be sold...

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  • Downunder35m commented on BrendanWarlow's forum topic Is this ambergris16 days ago

    It most likely is and very very expensive if you sell it in the right places.List it on Ebay available to international bidders with lots of pics and a pic with it on a scale.You might be surprised with the outcome in a very positive way ;)

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  • You should not solder on lithium batteries.And unless you add some vital electronics you will only drain the battery for no good reason.Any half decent BT device has indicator lights and those are controlled by the electronics - behind the battery protection circuits.Even if you would have skills and requirement eqippment to solder on 0201or smaller SMD parts it would not help to just add more LED's to the one already in there.Ever considered to just use a simple switch between battery and electronics?You risk loosing pairing information on some cheap devices but if the battery is wired than a micro switch with multiple terminals will do what you want although on a slightly different level.

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  • Downunder35m commented on elami123's forum topic Make a CNC with Camera16 days ago

    In theory it is "simple"...I see two possible options.a) The camera "traces" the image and estabilishes a tool path through post processing.Basically like vectorising the entire image in reference to the zero coordinates of the router.b) Real time tracking.Here the camera reads ahead and modifies the toolpath on the go.From the video is not clear with approach was used, so it might as well be a totally independent software doing the scaning and post processing.After that the required code is sent to the actual router part.But due to the camera location it is clear that it can't be real time tracking.If you want to try it on a budget scale then keep both tasks seperated.Take single pics or a scanning video with the camera and a suitable algorithm or software to vector...

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    In theory it is "simple"...I see two possible options.a) The camera "traces" the image and estabilishes a tool path through post processing.Basically like vectorising the entire image in reference to the zero coordinates of the router.b) Real time tracking.Here the camera reads ahead and modifies the toolpath on the go.From the video is not clear with approach was used, so it might as well be a totally independent software doing the scaning and post processing.After that the required code is sent to the actual router part.But due to the camera location it is clear that it can't be real time tracking.If you want to try it on a budget scale then keep both tasks seperated.Take single pics or a scanning video with the camera and a suitable algorithm or software to vectorise the results while keeping the dimensions true.This means the resuting vector file is used to generate the code for the machine while adjusting for dimensions as a vector file has no real size to speak of.You can already use a standard vector file for cutting with the right software, so it only comes down to generating your source vector file with a mounted cam instead of traditional ways.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's forum topic All going downhill here again?16 days ago

    Couldn't find any of the related topics anmore in the chaos here but seems obvious that no one from support bothers anymore :(

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  • Downunder35m commented on randofo's forum topic Welcome to Instructables20 days ago

    Since it is a topic created by someone above user level I hope someone up there will read here....https://www.instructables.com/topics/Will-the-supp...Up there I tried to sum only the most vital things requested and ignored for years.If you guys don't want to close this section due to no one actually helping people anymore it is time to act on old promises.

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  • That is correct, back in the days the quality of capacitors was not perfect.But seeing how long yours survived compared to some in modern TV's.... LOL

    That is the difference between modern and old technology.Today we design to throw away because a repair is not financially viable.Or when was the last time you saw a TV repair shop ? ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on AlanW131's forum topic Motorcycle regulator wire burning 23 days ago

    Nice pic!Would love to see other including them with their problems - a pic says more than thausand words...Your problem is quite simple: corrosion ;)The contacts on both ends corroded and when they needed to provide lots of juice the resistance caused the overheating.There is a good chance the wires on the connector you hold are affected too.Here is what I did to my old XR500 back when I was still young:Use a cut to size popstickle stick or similar to glue some sandpaper on it.Prepare a good handful with grits of 400 or slightly below and some with really fine grit in the 600 to 1000 region.Make sure the cut sticks fit to reach the terminals on your regulator.Once the glue is dried clean the contacts from all signs of corrosion.Use compressed air to clean the dust out.If you don't have...

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    Nice pic!Would love to see other including them with their problems - a pic says more than thausand words...Your problem is quite simple: corrosion ;)The contacts on both ends corroded and when they needed to provide lots of juice the resistance caused the overheating.There is a good chance the wires on the connector you hold are affected too.Here is what I did to my old XR500 back when I was still young:Use a cut to size popstickle stick or similar to glue some sandpaper on it.Prepare a good handful with grits of 400 or slightly below and some with really fine grit in the 600 to 1000 region.Make sure the cut sticks fit to reach the terminals on your regulator.Once the glue is dried clean the contacts from all signs of corrosion.Use compressed air to clean the dust out.If you don't have air: Use a straw ;)The connector is best to be replaced.You can use spade connectors directly on the wires, preferably the insulated types but a replacement is far better.If the actual wires appear black or have greenish residue on them it means the copper is oxidised.This will prevent proper contacts on the new connector and result in overheating at the wires.If you have then solder with an acid core will be able to make them shiny again - do not try standard rosing core solder on oxidised copper wires!Another trick that works fine is to use "Shining powder" from your Indian grocery store.It removes the oxidation quickly and after a cleanup with alcohol sodering is easy with standard rosin core.Those liquid cleaners for brass and silver can work too but stink like hell and really require you to clean all residue off - not easy if it goes under the insulation.Soldering the wires will prevent further oxidation and allows for a better crimping of the connectors.If your connector is as badly placed as mine was then it is prone to keep water inside.Once your repairs are done to your satisfaction use acrylis sealant - not silicone based sealant!Cover the entire connection are up to the wires to create a watertight seal.If you ever need to get there again acrylic sealant can just be peeled off and wont't affect the surfaces in the negative way silicone does - it would make soldering next to impossible.Good luck and let us know how the fix worked out!

    If size is no problem then look at the connectors used for caravans, not sure how they are called in the US, we call then Anderson plugs.The bigger ones are rated for 60A I think.Never had any problem with them, although I keep them clean and every now and then give them a spray of corrosion protection.But then again I gues you are not going through mud holes and river crossings like I do LOLIf you require even higher standards then look at industrial 2 or 3 phase power connectors.The big brothers and sisters of our wall plugs and outlets.No real limit in current but even the small ones are quite big due to lockable features and cable clamps.

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  • Hmm, the homework question seems a bit odd during this time of year.But as a question it does not make real sense.What is a "wearable battery"?What has it to do with my pocket and information?Do you ask about batteries, power management or how electronics are designed to use less power than several year ago?

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  • LOL - You could have mentioned that a few years ago!I wasted an entire weekend to restore my foot pedal after it literally started a fire on my foot.Winding the new resistor, making a new slider, replacing the cap, cleaning....$15??? Seriously? I feel a bit $%&/§* now ROFL

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  • It was a non polar capacitor, the original values are still in your picture.0.05µF and 250V.If it is anyway near what my ld machine had then it should be connected parallel to the wires going to the motor,Purpose is to supress electrical interference.In old radios you would otherwise get the sound of the running motor.The modern counterparts are usually small and square block with two wires.The actual capacitance or value is not too critial either, except of course for the voltage.

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  • Downunder35m commented on JohnSmith-Workshop's forum topic 3.7v LED driver4 weeks ago

    Don't see why I wouldn't but you could also use a cheap power bank to eliminate The problem of control and charging ;)I give you one more free hint: Superbright LED's :)A standard LED requires a lot of current to get a really decent brightness and the lifespan is reduced.But a high brightness LED of 10.000 or more mcd can be used quite well below its max ratings and still produce far more light than a standard LED.So while you really push hard with 30mA and risk a quick death these superbright LED's are happy to give you more light at 25mA or even below ;)Red ones need around 1.8 to 2.2V (check the datasheet) so you should be able to use 3 in series on 5V.And 3 of these strings to make 9 already is quite intense in brightness...If you need some bright light for the front check flashligh...

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    Don't see why I wouldn't but you could also use a cheap power bank to eliminate The problem of control and charging ;)I give you one more free hint: Superbright LED's :)A standard LED requires a lot of current to get a really decent brightness and the lifespan is reduced.But a high brightness LED of 10.000 or more mcd can be used quite well below its max ratings and still produce far more light than a standard LED.So while you really push hard with 30mA and risk a quick death these superbright LED's are happy to give you more light at 25mA or even below ;)Red ones need around 1.8 to 2.2V (check the datasheet) so you should be able to use 3 in series on 5V.And 3 of these strings to make 9 already is quite intense in brightness...If you need some bright light for the front check flashlights that run on 3 1.5V batteries.they should contain all you need and can be wired directly to 5V, especially if the battery is located somewhere under the seat ;)

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  • I think your main problem will be safety.Massive bus bars for the power are one thing, same as individual charge and protection cicuits for the batteries.But keeping track of cells that are slightly out of specs from the rest will be hard.Simial story for adding a generator.In the ideal case it would only "boost" power when required - but how to control this amount of current and the required voltages?Here it comes down to the same problem everyone face when trying to charge batteries while they are in use.The input must match and somehow be diverted between batteries and motor controllers.You can't just try to add the generator to boost the voltage as without current there will be no gain at all.And with enough current from the generator you are again faced with the problem o...

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    I think your main problem will be safety.Massive bus bars for the power are one thing, same as individual charge and protection cicuits for the batteries.But keeping track of cells that are slightly out of specs from the rest will be hard.Simial story for adding a generator.In the ideal case it would only "boost" power when required - but how to control this amount of current and the required voltages?Here it comes down to the same problem everyone face when trying to charge batteries while they are in use.The input must match and somehow be diverted between batteries and motor controllers.You can't just try to add the generator to boost the voltage as without current there will be no gain at all.And with enough current from the generator you are again faced with the problem of handling and diverting it.Normal battery eliminators are only good for about 120A, beyond that region normal relays won't do it and expensive electronics are required.You calculations are also slightly flawed I am afraid.If you want to reduce weight and demands then you need a quite high bus voltage.So a lot of 3.7V cells need to be in series for this.To reach the currents you require a lot of these series strings need to be in parallel.And how many you need to make it around the track long enough is determined by the drain rate and what power you will use during a race.Take a simple example:Replace a 12V starter battery with 1.2V AA cells.We need strings of 10 to reach 12V.To get to at least 100 ampere from AA's with a reasonable drain rate we need about 120 of these strings.Makes 1200 batteries :(Add the losses from the bus system and you might even need 130.Replacing the AA's with d-cells and you might only need 40 strings but a much sturdier bus system between the cells.In your case you might not want to go for 400V but instead for 1000V and use a buck converter or inverter to get the 400.Gives stable supply voltage and again reduce the demand on the batteries.Apart from the bad examples charging will be a nightmare too.Replacing a petrol engine with an electric motor is not hard.Replacing the fuel tank with batteries is ;)But I wish you all the luck and genius ideas you need to make your dream a reality soon!

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  • Downunder35m commented on JohnSmith-Workshop's forum topic 3.7v LED driver4 weeks ago

    Just use a 5V step up converter and then just the right resistor for your LED's in series to get them the right current and voltage ;)

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  • I try to explain the battery quality from the little experience I have.All started when I got a pack of 50 "high quality OEM" AA batteries some years ago.If you ever bought standard alkaline batteries in buk then you might have noticed that there is a big difference between brands.And I don't mean the price.Really good alkaline batteries are heavy!Compare a cheap one from the discounter with a brand name one and you know what I mean.Similar story for NiCd rechargeable batteries.But where the alkaline often lack a thick Zink mantle the NiCd ones often come relatively dry.Not enough electrolyte makes them much cheaper and longer lasting but also reduces their output and charging capabilities.If a battery feels light then I just won't buy it ;)As for actual power output:You have ...

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    I try to explain the battery quality from the little experience I have.All started when I got a pack of 50 "high quality OEM" AA batteries some years ago.If you ever bought standard alkaline batteries in buk then you might have noticed that there is a big difference between brands.And I don't mean the price.Really good alkaline batteries are heavy!Compare a cheap one from the discounter with a brand name one and you know what I mean.Similar story for NiCd rechargeable batteries.But where the alkaline often lack a thick Zink mantle the NiCd ones often come relatively dry.Not enough electrolyte makes them much cheaper and longer lasting but also reduces their output and charging capabilities.If a battery feels light then I just won't buy it ;)As for actual power output:You have the outer can, forming the negative of the battery and the inner graphite rod making the connection.Some NiCd batteries just use metel though.Either way, the longer and thicker a battery is the more power it can deliver.See it like a bucket with water - the bigger it is the more can go in and come out when you need it.Replacing the batteries of an old NiCd drill is not really worth it anymore if you ask me.These batteries need to be constantly used to be of any use.Storing them for weeks on end until you need the drill again means they destroy themself by doing nothing.I would consider to invest in a Lithium Ion drill if you really need battery power.Otherwise just use a beefy 12V power supply ;)

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  • Already done in several US harbours and jetties for enviromental reasons.Basically just a big bucket with pump.Water and debris flows in over the rim, the pump gets rid of the water, rubbish is left behind.

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  • A LED headlight goes for 5 bucks over the counter, somehow I bother people will modify their drills...I have one with a LED light but so far had no job in the dark requiring the lights LOL

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  • In case you can't figure it out, the password for the RAR is: Downunder35m

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  • To be honest: I first hated the idea of steel steps.It simply does not mix with cold winters.But when I noticed how great these grated things are in other places I could not resist to try it myself.Does not rot, does not get moss and despite being covered with ice they don't get slippery.As for the snow catchers:If you want a slightly better look after the winter consider using simple hinges and hook.Fold them up and use the hook before winter and once all is over fold them flat on the roof ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on DIYEnPointe's forum topic Embedding YouTube Video Bug6 weeks ago

    This very old HTML trick should still work as expected, please replace the code for the video only!Leave the youtube.be and all!P2eTb9egUl8 is the only thing you want to replace with the code from your youtube link.Works in Instructables as well as here in the community section.Have similar codes for pictures too so I can have them where I need them inside my text and not out of context.Please click on the pic to see all as it is still impossible to post code on this website in any usable form....

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  • I am now more or less in desert country but grew up with tons of snow every winter, so maybe some of this might help:1. Install snow catchers on your roof if it is sturdy enough to support the weight of the snow.Just two rows with 20 and 60 cm distance from the gutters should keep the snow up there.2. For the winter install a sloping board over the entrance so water runs off to one side.Better still: Add a proper sized gutter over the entrance area.3. Using PVC is better than steel gutters and downpipes!Unlike metal in PVC nothing sticks enough when frozen, you can push most of the snow or ice out or flush it down.The biggest problem is alwys those times when the weather has no clue wich direction to go.Snow comes off the roof, ice build up in the evening and night and if really bad you...

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    I am now more or less in desert country but grew up with tons of snow every winter, so maybe some of this might help:1. Install snow catchers on your roof if it is sturdy enough to support the weight of the snow.Just two rows with 20 and 60 cm distance from the gutters should keep the snow up there.2. For the winter install a sloping board over the entrance so water runs off to one side.Better still: Add a proper sized gutter over the entrance area.3. Using PVC is better than steel gutters and downpipes!Unlike metal in PVC nothing sticks enough when frozen, you can push most of the snow or ice out or flush it down.The biggest problem is alwys those times when the weather has no clue wich direction to go.Snow comes off the roof, ice build up in the evening and night and if really bad you end up with a few hundred kg of frozen snow on your roof waiting to hit you when you close the door on your way out.As for your steps: Wood is almost deadly in the winter conditions as ice builds up quickly and in some case stays loose on the wood.Either way, stepping on it can mean a sudden test of gravity followed by the painful confirmation that no fall lasts forever.IMHO the best options is to use galvanised steel for the steps.You know, these grated panels often used in the industry where little "spikes" or triangles poke out the top slightly.Ice on these breaks once you step on it and you will get a firm grip if wearing proper footwear.For the summer just cover them with wooden boards cut to lenght that have a few screws or similar poking through the metal grates to keep it all in place.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's forum topic VR gaming parties anyone?7 weeks ago

    I feel you Rick, I really do...Was fortunate enough to test some VR systems on a show early this year.My first decision was not to buy a PC based one.Just no chance with my tiny rooms here and I hate running around with cables all the time.My PC is still good enough for a lot of havy duty work but I also fail to see the requirement for a new graphics card.As you said it is still al pixelated and to me it makes no sense to use a high end gaming PC just so I get tiny block in front of my eyes.Sadly during these tests it was confirmed that my motion sickness is as bad as on a tiny boat.As I was never really a fan of first person shooters and similar games I opted for the portable way of VR.This way I can watch a nice 3D movie in bed or enjoy playing some games just sitting on my sofa.So fi...

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    I feel you Rick, I really do...Was fortunate enough to test some VR systems on a show early this year.My first decision was not to buy a PC based one.Just no chance with my tiny rooms here and I hate running around with cables all the time.My PC is still good enough for a lot of havy duty work but I also fail to see the requirement for a new graphics card.As you said it is still al pixelated and to me it makes no sense to use a high end gaming PC just so I get tiny block in front of my eyes.Sadly during these tests it was confirmed that my motion sickness is as bad as on a tiny boat.As I was never really a fan of first person shooters and similar games I opted for the portable way of VR.This way I can watch a nice 3D movie in bed or enjoy playing some games just sitting on my sofa.So finding the right place is far easier for me here ;)My main problem is the lack of root access to make things easier.Although I don't have much need yet I found a way to stream PC based games to my headset.Not just steam, basically any DirectX game with moderate hardware requirements compared to the Rift or similar systems - and still without any wires ;)But if you are like me then you are never happy with what you got.There is always something that needs change, an adjustment or in this case rights and access.So lets see if I manage to be the first to root a VR system ROFLA really big concern however is privacy, or better the violation of it.Just so people know what they are for when signing up for a good VR system:Over the past 10 or so years we have been coached to think that we need to share our lifes with basically everyone capable of getting our data.Be it be legal, grey or just illegal means.Smart assistants in our home help us to save time, social media is checked more often than the pantry during a mice infestation.With all consumer VR systems controlled by the big data players it is no surprise that they try their best on us again.Google is well know to provide what you need based on suggestion they make.And what can be tracked and referenced will be.FB goes a step further thanks to their huge social media presence.You want to tell your friends and so on? Just add them to your list.Link your payment options while at it because not much good is available for free anyway.And before you can even begin you need another mobile device to set it all up.I had to go through some trickery to at least try to fool the think into thinking I am not actually placed where I am :(FB gets not just your bank details but also your real address with phone and all.Unless of course you don't want any warranty for your costly toy and get it from unsupported sources and never register it or buy apps.I am starting to hate the US way of thinking we need someone to control what we do and tell us what we need while totally restricting basic privacy rights :(

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  • Goodbye Moshi or How to Run Your Laser Printer on Arduino

    I found this in my comments but think it was deleted already:no misconception, moshidraw doesn't even work with lihuiyu board. i'm not knocking your work, this is a great article. just pointing out that people are seeing this and then coming over to some of the many support groups i help and telling us they have a moshi board when they dont. i can read between the lines and i get the article title. its just confusing to some when moshi is mentioned when the pictured board has absolutely nothing in the world to do with moshi boards or moshidraw. again this is a nice writeup and you do great work. for me, though, the devil is in the details. anyway have a great day :)Just to clearify:After two years you come to complain about my Instructable.Fair enough...But I also sold about 40 Arduino ...

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    I found this in my comments but think it was deleted already:no misconception, moshidraw doesn't even work with lihuiyu board. i'm not knocking your work, this is a great article. just pointing out that people are seeing this and then coming over to some of the many support groups i help and telling us they have a moshi board when they dont. i can read between the lines and i get the article title. its just confusing to some when moshi is mentioned when the pictured board has absolutely nothing in the world to do with moshi boards or moshidraw. again this is a nice writeup and you do great work. for me, though, the devil is in the details. anyway have a great day :)Just to clearify:After two years you come to complain about my Instructable.Fair enough...But I also sold about 40 Arduino controllers with my mod to people running a K40 with Moshi soft.Instead of blamin me for your problems understanding time it would make sense to complain to the Chinese.I still have the original board, software and dongle that came with my cutter, so if I write an Instructable about the controller, software and so on than why do you think I would need to make things up?Already back then the supplied Moshi software was outdated by over a year and no newer would work with the dongle.So unless your work is based on these old models then please consider that even the Chinese scammers move on to never stuff every now and then.Or why do you think so many people followed my instructions here and sent me endless messages to get their cutter work properly? ;)If newer K40 use different boards, dongles or software then it can't be my fault as this Instructable is now quite old...

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  • Things are indeed funny in this ection but we can still hope it will be fixed before we reach retirement age ;)For the search I found two options:1. Let the big spy collect more data about your habbits and use the search engine we all know.2. Use the provided Instructables search functions properly!!For those not so familiar how the Instructables search actually works:Keep in mind that the little robot does it all for us...First you need to feed the little nipple through the lash,then, using the little hand crank you need to turn it all the way up,then it will show a little arrow, press it and the results of your search should appear in the box below.If I now only could find out in which slot the card with the search terms has to go.....

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  • Downunder35m commented on randofo's forum topic Old How-To Books7 weeks ago

    I had a collection of about 300 magazines.All about electronic circuits and what to do with them.You know, instead of explaining how a LED works they would give you the info in the October release.Just so you can make some scry halloween props.One I really liked was the Kojack siren "kit".Took my (as a little boy) a whole day to solder it together but then another week to make the megaphone like enclosure from cardboard.Times were different back then.If there was a way to make it yourself then you just did it.And those old books are some sort of history lesson too.Skills and knowledge is already lost, so keep those books in a safe place :)Mine old books and magazines somehow managed to escape my shipping container between customs inspection and me being able to get the contain...

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    I had a collection of about 300 magazines.All about electronic circuits and what to do with them.You know, instead of explaining how a LED works they would give you the info in the October release.Just so you can make some scry halloween props.One I really liked was the Kojack siren "kit".Took my (as a little boy) a whole day to solder it together but then another week to make the megaphone like enclosure from cardboard.Times were different back then.If there was a way to make it yourself then you just did it.And those old books are some sort of history lesson too.Skills and knowledge is already lost, so keep those books in a safe place :)Mine old books and magazines somehow managed to escape my shipping container between customs inspection and me being able to get the container.I estimated that 20% of the contents were lost but I never got any back :(Would be nice if people with these old books and magizines would still have time to scan them for the big digital archive...

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  • Goodbye Moshi or How to Run Your Laser Printer on Arduino

    Well, if you would have checked then you might have noticed your misconception ;)The K40 and other dirt cheap Chinese cutters come with this board.The software is called Moshi, same for the required dongle.Wouldn't have made any sense to put the name of the controller board into the title if no one knows what they are used for.Keep in mind that a few years passed now, but it still won't mean these controller boards are any good.

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  • If you struggle to find proper wire then just try to get a suitable spring for the upper end.For the rest use a thin strip of metal.Brass from some "thickness gauge" sheet works fine here and the stuff is dirt cheap.Form a cylinder for the bottom end, add a strip and the spring...

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  • Back in the day the sharing of a draft by URL worked fine.Then only the author could use the link unless he also shared the cookies.And I stopped checking when I noticed nothing works anymore.What Wurx suggested might work but not 1ßß% about the cookie problem as a draft is by default in Edit mode.

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  • Have a lot of people call him...."Hello James! I just wanted to let you know we might be a little late due to traffic." Hang up.."Hi James, we are almost there, should we bring anything from the shops or so?" Hang up before he can fully answer..."Hey James, I am about to load the tables and the bbq, sure you don't need the chairs too?"...Continue with calls for John in regards to a big party or similar for a day or two if you dare.Once you notice your friend is getting a bit, well lets say angry, you have some nice, old lady call him:"OH, hello, this is Johns gandma, how are you? I was just wondering if anyone left some messages for John?I have now all the people here and nothing is prepared because you never called us...."

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  • Downunder35m commented on ashakif's forum topic 5v to 12v convert8 weeks ago

    From what I see you can't.There is a rectifier, transformer and even some capacitors but I have no clue for what voltages they are.

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  • Ok, I had no clue they made it that simple LOLIf I follow you correctly then the positive of the battery just touches one connection and the spring give the other.Your best option would be spring wire or dental wire as it gives enough tension to form a spring.Assuming you have neither:Take some old battery and try to find a long spring made of thin wire that provides a snug fit.A bit too big is bad, a big too small in diameter can be made to work.If you have some cheap flashlight or similar you might even find a suitable replacement.In case you need to make it all from scratch:Take a wire that offers some tension, so not just normal copper wire.Anything nice and stiff like tyre wire will do.Form a few tight loops around something slightly thinner than your batter - the wire will "p...

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    Ok, I had no clue they made it that simple LOLIf I follow you correctly then the positive of the battery just touches one connection and the spring give the other.Your best option would be spring wire or dental wire as it gives enough tension to form a spring.Assuming you have neither:Take some old battery and try to find a long spring made of thin wire that provides a snug fit.A bit too big is bad, a big too small in diameter can be made to work.If you have some cheap flashlight or similar you might even find a suitable replacement.In case you need to make it all from scratch:Take a wire that offers some tension, so not just normal copper wire.Anything nice and stiff like tyre wire will do.Form a few tight loops around something slightly thinner than your batter - the wire will "push back" and increase the diameter a bit when done.Make 3 or 4 turns with a good spacing and then 2 or 3 more that are really tight - these thight one go to the bottom part and form your connection.Check the lenght of the remaining wire and bend it to match the corred one in length.Take a battery spring from some old toy and solder it onto the wire to form the top terminal.If your wire is stiff enough you can try to form a simple coil with it too.

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  • You would have to place a sensor insde the material to get a reading.A small NTC or temp sensor does not require more than 2mm hole and said hole can be filled with some clear resin once the sensor is placed.

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  • $2 Sun Tracker Circuit - Healthy Discussion!

    I quite like the idea of "just use some solar panel to position another" :)And since I like to tinker myself I guess it means I have to come with a working solution one day.Or hope someone is nice enough to post one...I have a 6V panel used for a shed light.Only problem is that I got it for free with a fully smashed housing but fully working.After seeing this Ible I started to sqeeze and twist my neurons a bit.One word of warning: This is only a weird idea and I did not do any tests, so just enjoy!In my case I would charge a battery pack, so a constant power supply would be available for starters.The main panel does the charging of course.Now the idea of small solar panels driving a motor....Solar garden lights come to mind...If switched off they just work as a charger....But ...

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    I quite like the idea of "just use some solar panel to position another" :)And since I like to tinker myself I guess it means I have to come with a working solution one day.Or hope someone is nice enough to post one...I have a 6V panel used for a shed light.Only problem is that I got it for free with a fully smashed housing but fully working.After seeing this Ible I started to sqeeze and twist my neurons a bit.One word of warning: This is only a weird idea and I did not do any tests, so just enjoy!In my case I would charge a battery pack, so a constant power supply would be available for starters.The main panel does the charging of course.Now the idea of small solar panels driving a motor....Solar garden lights come to mind...If switched off they just work as a charger....But they still provide a source for a voltage check...Using a green LED for the actual tracking info might work easier though.Here we could use a Xor chip to get usable values for 4 LED's.Two either side at increasing angles.Sadly this would only give instant tracking, which is quite a drain.With some more transistors, a timer and so on it is possible to established a delayed tracking.Here the system waits until a critical value or timelimit is reached until the motor is activated.Going full scale some UNO and a buck coverter could fully automate this task.Either way, once the motor needs to move the energy comes from the small batteries of the garden lights....

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  • I am not 100% about the insides of these pens but you certainly need the positive and negative connections for the batteries.Be aware that the stuff corroded and that this corrosion can also affect the circuit board!Before proceeding use an old toothbrush or similar to remove all debris.You can use methylated spirit for additional cleaning and rinsing action.Only if the actual things looks still intact it is worth thinking about fixing the wire.Once cleaned up you will need something to solder anyway, so lets start with a basic test:Locate the positive and negative connection on the circuit board - with a bit of luck it should be obvious.Solder thin and insulated wires onto the corresponding pads.Connect the correct one to positive on one battery, the other to negative on another batter...

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    I am not 100% about the insides of these pens but you certainly need the positive and negative connections for the batteries.Be aware that the stuff corroded and that this corrosion can also affect the circuit board!Before proceeding use an old toothbrush or similar to remove all debris.You can use methylated spirit for additional cleaning and rinsing action.Only if the actual things looks still intact it is worth thinking about fixing the wire.Once cleaned up you will need something to solder anyway, so lets start with a basic test:Locate the positive and negative connection on the circuit board - with a bit of luck it should be obvious.Solder thin and insulated wires onto the corresponding pads.Connect the correct one to positive on one battery, the other to negative on another battery.Once you bring the batteries together you should have power.Check if all works, if not just bin it ;)In case it does work we can work something out for the springs....

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  • IMHO there is not enough space to actually fit what you need.At least not without a massive workload on modifications.A hub motor might fit but then again you have nothing to attach it to.A normal motor on the rea might work too but no room inside anwhere.Only way out I see is to create at least a new frame....

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  • Ok, after about one hour of trying to post a reply, text is finally appearing in the window :)Waste is relative, as relative as your specs on the power supply or current draw.One thing is certain though: If the relay is constantly on then you have a significant drop.A transistor, like a cheap mosfet from the scrap box, a small SSR being creative could help.For the creative part:I assume your light is not really using much juice, maby even just a small LED.You could check on the relay, datasheet or measure the current the relay needs to stay energised.Wouldn't be surprised if your light needs about the same....So with a suitable resistor to get to the voltage the relay you could just replace it with your light.If it needs much more you might need to replace the transistor powering the re...

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    Ok, after about one hour of trying to post a reply, text is finally appearing in the window :)Waste is relative, as relative as your specs on the power supply or current draw.One thing is certain though: If the relay is constantly on then you have a significant drop.A transistor, like a cheap mosfet from the scrap box, a small SSR being creative could help.For the creative part:I assume your light is not really using much juice, maby even just a small LED.You could check on the relay, datasheet or measure the current the relay needs to stay energised.Wouldn't be surprised if your light needs about the same....So with a suitable resistor to get to the voltage the relay you could just replace it with your light.If it needs much more you might need to replace the transistor powering the relay with something bigger.

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  • Oh: In case you wonder what mostly sellers struggle with then check the Ebay section on Reddit.If you though we buyers feel bad then might be surprised by what some seller have to deal with, especially when it comes to dodgy buyers and changes Ebay makes....

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  • As said some normal battery eliminators can be used.They don't care about the output voltage and just cut all off once the set low limit is reached.But they are quite bulky in comparison.That is why I mentioned to use a SSR with the little one - they have no issues operating at 5V or lower.Comes down to what you need just requires an additional part and some additional wiring.

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  • Again: Please check the BT specifications, especially in regards to what your dongle is capable of.If there would be at least anyuse to it then someone in China would have put one on ebay already ;)

    You can't do all this at once over BT.And adding a reader won't work anyways due to the missing hardware support.Apart from that I doubt your retor system support saving over BT.

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  • How about somethinglike this:https://www.pololu.com/product/2868Would give you a regulated output voltage with low voltage protection.Depending on the model even adjustable.The "load" on this could be a relay or better SSR switching the actual load off.But if size is no problem just check for adjustable battery eliminator.Most are fixed for 12V car systems but you can get adjustable ones too.Back in the day there were even electronics kits available for DIY to do just this.But can't find a suitable circuit for high amps right now.

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  • Well, then once again I will see it as a hopeful start and wait what happens.Hopefully we are getting to something that both sides can work with ;)

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  • I love to tinker with thinks that should not be tinkered with, and I had a very similar problem.For me it was living in a flat that had one half under ground, so limited ventilation of dry air possible.And the weather was too bad for drying all my work clothes most of the time.I found a clothes dryer with condenser.Unlike the cheap standard ones that just blow out all humid and hot air these use two fans.One blows the room air into the heated rum, the other blows fresh over one side of the evaporator plates.The hot and humid air will then condense on the other side of the plate and can be drained off.But you want to go at least one step further than just building something similar to add to your dryer I guess...If you suffer from both long term wet weather and the need to dry a lot of c...

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    I love to tinker with thinks that should not be tinkered with, and I had a very similar problem.For me it was living in a flat that had one half under ground, so limited ventilation of dry air possible.And the weather was too bad for drying all my work clothes most of the time.I found a clothes dryer with condenser.Unlike the cheap standard ones that just blow out all humid and hot air these use two fans.One blows the room air into the heated rum, the other blows fresh over one side of the evaporator plates.The hot and humid air will then condense on the other side of the plate and can be drained off.But you want to go at least one step further than just building something similar to add to your dryer I guess...If you suffer from both long term wet weather and the need to dry a lot of clothes then using a portable split aircon system might be the way out.Just to be clear: there are two types!I don't mean those single tower ones with the axhaust pipe going out the window.I do mean a real split system with seperate "indoor" and "outdoor" unit.Here is how I currently use it: To cool my bedroom...Here is how I use it the cold winter times:The indoor part is in my laundry and the outdoor unit sits in the hallway with the door closed as much as possible.All clothes are on a rack right in the outgoing airstream of the indoor unit.I use the dehumidifying setting on the aircon...Within about an hour my clothes are dry, although on a very cold day I have to assist with a little heater to speed things up.And the produce heat from the unit is not wasted as it warms my house while drying my clothes.Being a quite small device my aircon does not use more than 1000W under full load.Best of all is that the humidity in the house is kept low to prevent mould building up in cold spots.Keep in mind though that you would need to elevate the oudoor unit so you can use a bucket or so to catch the water.No point drying your laundry if you soak your carpet as a result ;)

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  • No offence but soldering is the most rugged way to attach a resistor.I am assuming soldering is not really your best skill and you need a way out?Giving us much more details would certainly help here.Pull resistors usually go between ground/positive and an input on a microcontroller.The only other reason to use them is in arrays.And if you have the problem that you need to connect a sensor to a controller AND have pull resistor inuse then again soldering is the best option.You can get scre terminals for this task too that you just push on the pins and then screw the resistor toit without soldering - but it gets big, does not always fit (size for a case, shields and so on) and also can casue additional problems with bad connections.

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  • Now I am slowly starting to see the Instrubles logic behind it.Back in my big forum days we had a similar fight, just "in reverse" so to speak.Old topics suddenly appeared again because someone found it through a search in relation to his problem.What you guys see as a positive was a big struggle for us as most of these old topics would never see anything from a related person.We solved this by adding an archive section.All topics older than xxx months would go in there automatically.People could still read them but if they wanted to reply a new topic was created with a link to the archive for reference.This way a user knew right away it is an old topic.In most cases the person then decided it really is better to check for something newer or to indeed create a maningful new re...

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    Now I am slowly starting to see the Instrubles logic behind it.Back in my big forum days we had a similar fight, just "in reverse" so to speak.Old topics suddenly appeared again because someone found it through a search in relation to his problem.What you guys see as a positive was a big struggle for us as most of these old topics would never see anything from a related person.We solved this by adding an archive section.All topics older than xxx months would go in there automatically.People could still read them but if they wanted to reply a new topic was created with a link to the archive for reference.This way a user knew right away it is an old topic.In most cases the person then decided it really is better to check for something newer or to indeed create a maningful new request.When it comes to engaging people, trust me, nothing beast active people.It does not really matter if you have 5 or 50 new questions a day if no one finds them or can be bothered to give a useful reply.I mean check "Most polular...?"7 yers old!!! and if you would dare to find the last reply you would waste a lot of time and most likely find a new reply that is of no interest to anyone anymore.When things were still normal here in the community section we had days were the "team" here answered questions within a few minutes at the best of times but usually never later than a few hours.Someone would always spot a new topic or question.And as you noticed, right now basically no one can be bothered anymore....There are not too many users active every day, keeping those here to act should be the main goal.What is the use of collecting 20 or more questions and topics a day if no one answers them ?Sure it looks good on paper but not so good for the userexperience as at least I would expect to see a reply if I check my question the next day or so.Linking questions from or about Instructables here in their own section might be a good idea but it is also confusing.Same for questions and tips.From what I see they are more or less Instructables with some real stuff mixed between them.If I have a question then I post one but not a picture story with Instructions on to build something - that would be an Instructable.Same for an endless collection of tips with no sorting at all.Google helps to find stuff if you know how to use it, the internal search here is still miles away from getting even close.Let me try to explain it with a back to the future trip:When I started to post here years ago the section was a mess.But more in terms of being user friendly for options how to edit and create posts.There was no lack in new questions or topics at all.In fact we guys here were quite busy and at times even enjoyed making jokes about all the scam postings.Then the support decided on some unannounced changes.We creid, we complained, we got promised a fix.A bit was turned back, other things slightly adjusted but never to the extend a lot of people hoped for.Things slowed down.If you need to provide code but get it into your reply in any usable form then it sucks.If you need to embed a picture in a specific spot to explain it with corresponding text but can't then it sucks again.And this list went on for miles at the time.All while we still had tons of new postings coming.Then came the big breakthrough of a totally revamped community section.Instructables was so proud of it that for weeks any complaints were just played down or totally ignored with the ongoing statement that all is better now.To top it off the oftenused funtion to highlight a topic as a bug report or feature request was just removed.So our complaints were either lost or just not seen/acknowledged.NOW Instructables noticed that the activity is far below anything acceptable but still fails to see how it started and "WHAT CAUSED IT" .A community section like this survives on the users posting there.A new user posting and unable to even find his newly created topic will just move on.Face it: As always a lot just register to post their sooo important question but some never come back to check. Now even less come back as they think they being ignored.Stats, counters and all that are not important as in a good section you really only need those for stats as the activity speaks for itself.I could give you a long list of support forums that all are bad for the same reasons.And funny enough the reasons are the same as for this one.1. No user friendly search and sorting options.This includes topics as well as the replies within - no point knowing there is a new reply if I can't find it...2. Lack of actual support.If someone asks a question and the first 5 replies are all meaningless then the system failed.Same for not getting a response in an acceptable timeframe.Trust me users these days often think they have to see an answer within a few hours but not days.3. Advanced options!!!Once a user has enough reputation, postings, postive feedback, he must be given proper posting and editing options.Again take a look at Vbulletin for the many options that make posting not only more fun but also much more competent.Embedding code, hiding long texts, properly embedding images and if required attachments are just plain basics.Same for using highlighting text to make a selective quote with reference to the user.4. Sections, sections, sections....No matter what you do any forum will sooner or later reach its limit in terms of how cludded it looks.So being able to provide sections makes it easier.This does not have to affect the sorting either if there is an option to show all new topics and replies from all sections in one go ;)In terms of new topics a user should be required to specify where he thinks it should land.For example question on how power a stepper motor could be in the electronics section.While some question like "How to remove a coffe stain from my wooden table?" could be in woodworking, cleaning or such.Even with just icons as markers like right now "topic" and different colors a basic section order would be easy.Again, you can leave the current all in one list system, just double the view ;)Add the sections like for questions and tipss or in a more modern and graphical selection form for all those who just love to browse through interesting things.5. Rating, feedback, bugs.Whether you like to admit it or not, these three things are most vital.A user should be able to rate all replies to his question or at least select the best one as we had a long time ago.If I see that just "somone" gave me an answer I might be happy, but if I see that someone with a really high reputation answered instead of a newbie I could be tempted to think I get real help really fast.Feedback is vital for ever developer, without all his work is just guesswork.So far the feedback record for this site is not really that good.Problems that are ignored forever or played down with explanations that just make no sense for a forum are one example.Often going totally against what the most active people here suggest or ask for is just bad.So removing a feedback and bug reporting option by just a poseted topic about changes can't be enough.You guys want the number to go up, we guys want to be able to help the user in the possible and quickest way.So why constantly work against each other if both sides in essence want the same thing??? ;)Let us users deal with the newbies and normal users.Give us the tools we need for it.Listen and maybe sometimes fix things a bit differently.Can't make any promises but I am almost certain that all YOUR problems and concerns will disappear around the same OUR problems disappear.Changes will cause chaos again but if these changes are made bit by bit the transistion will be easier, the rate of errors made along the way will be minimised and maybe no one will even notice any downtime in the section.Check the topics and questions from the time before the revamp and you will see how fast active averything was.

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  • I can only back Rick up here!For years we struggled to get a properly working sorting here.Then comes the update and even the support seems to have silent since then.I posted several times in regards to this issue but it seems the topics went into the digital nirvana.The same nirvana we have right now when trying to get through anything in the community section.It is really not that hard to provide MULTIPLE sorting options, every good forum can show you how it should look.Even in the most basic form you can sort by latest topic and latest reply to a topic.As no active user here seems to understand the logic behind the current system I simply state it is too far from being user friendly.And talking about it for another 6 or more months won't fix it.

    Back in the day I could at least add some search functions to the HTTP string, like sort=recent.This "feature" was removed with the update.I left here and totally ignored even looking at Email notifications.Coming back after such a long time and seeing nothing at all has improved makes me wonder...

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's instructable The Repulsine Project2 months ago
    The Repulsine Project

    Finally someone who seems to think in similar directions :)Sadly from I could gather from videos and pic it looks like basically all copper and brass parts are connected one way or the other.Soldering, brazing, rivets, screw...But, and for me it is a big but:The described funtions of the repulsine (from old documents, articles, interviews) all come down to one thing alone.The medium, in our case air, is propelled internally so fast and through so many changing directions and pressures that it is hard to understand.At least from normal persons standpoint all these years ago.Combining your thoughts and me thoughts I could be tempted to say something like this:The air in the first two stages is accellerated and put into a very fast spinning motion, like on a Dyson vacuum cleaner you end up...

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    Finally someone who seems to think in similar directions :)Sadly from I could gather from videos and pic it looks like basically all copper and brass parts are connected one way or the other.Soldering, brazing, rivets, screw...But, and for me it is a big but:The described funtions of the repulsine (from old documents, articles, interviews) all come down to one thing alone.The medium, in our case air, is propelled internally so fast and through so many changing directions and pressures that it is hard to understand.At least from normal persons standpoint all these years ago.Combining your thoughts and me thoughts I could be tempted to say something like this:The air in the first two stages is accellerated and put into a very fast spinning motion, like on a Dyson vacuum cleaner you end up with whirpools within whirlpools.Only the slow moving particles actually make it into the third stage by themself.The venturi nossles, especially those in the last two stages, will cause a low pressure zone within the bottom part of the repulsine.The low pressure zone "sucks" in the fast moving particles from the first two stages.The overall design is so that the spinning motion continues but only for the entire incoming stream.This stream "runs" along the outer surface, keeping the low pressure zone in the center active.Only looking at the overall streams that made it into the inner low pressure zone:The air passed through different nozzels at very high speed.As a result the air is cooled down and if I trust reports enough to be able to cool a factory sized room by almost 10° within less than 2 hours.Going on:This freezing cold air requires far less volume than hot air.On top of it, it is under a really low pressure.This air is now the main stream used to actually enter the copper wave disc part!Once it enters through the nozzles with the normal incoming air I think two things happen:a ) The sudden mix of warmer air causes expansion of the overall volume.b ) Condensation is eliminated as the super cold part of the stream will always be colder than the surrounding metal.Once in the copper wave disk the air gets even more spin added, the the same direction.Only this time the spin produces centrifugal forces as well.So you have a stream, spinning around itself, that enters a rotating disk - like a Tesla turbine in a flat design.the further the stream goes in the more it looses the self-spin.First the fast moving bits are ripped off, then the slow moving ones until it is one homogenous stream pressed out like dough.Problem is the stream goes through a lot of pressure changes along the way out to the nozzles.A drawing would be good but I miss the print button on my head :(I can visualise it really nice but getting this nice view onto paper ruins it.If required I will try anyway :)Now, as I found out really late in my research: the wave disks are not really parallel to each other!If you see it as a cut out then a single intersecting area looks almost like a weird whistle.On the upper part of the discs the air just utilises the surface effect to follow on at a much higher speed.Behind the edge of the lower disc however a small vortex area forms as the result of the slow down of airflow.I can not even guesstimate the insane rotation speed in these vortices, nor the resulting pressure drop in this area.As we both seem to know: the actual rotation is started externally first to get the thing going.At a certain speed it not only becomes self sustaining but only accelerates - this moment indicates the motor shut down.The rotation of the repulsine's outside in a fully working model is zero!Only the simple prototypes were the spinning horrors that needed to be bolted down in exteral frames.The nozzles have two main functions:a ) Modify the air flow and regulate the low pressure zones.b ) Counteract the mechanical spin of the inner system by the outgoing airflow - like a helicopter with a tail turbine.A thing often overlooked is the fact that there are multiple in and outlets on the outer hull.Same for the modern comparison of the wave disk system: A mulecular vacuum pump.In some pictures of the wave discs I think have seem holes in the waves.Only located at the first few rings after the intake rings.It is next to impossible to judge the thickness of the material and I can only guess the the look of the area underneath these slot holes.But they do appear like a whistle style nozzle.They are definately right in the spot where the surface flow happens, so the airstream should pass over this hole without being affected.That is until you consider the pressure differences between the outer sides of both discs.I assume these slots are the regulating factor to control the max rotational speed.Without them the whole inner mechanism would simple keep accelerating until the repulsine rips apart from centrifugal forces.A thing that happened several times with the early prototypes.Adding your thoughts to the mix it would be nice to figure out how and where the different electrical potentials form as these would also affect the airflow and properties.The report glow on working prototypes at full capacity indicates a clear and massive charge.But if you examine the construction of the replusine with a focus on the ouside then one thing is obvious:The inner stream is partially diverted to go over the outer surface.Again just with a focus of charges:What would happen to the charge of a fast spinning stream passing over metal surfaces?It gives off some of this charge, pretty obvious but I had to point it out.The stream however won't be able to loose all the electrical charge as at the point of eqaul operation activities it will stay charged.Like a flowing river so to say - it never stops, so the charge never reall goes down to zero.And if siad stream now passes through very narrow areas then both the stream and the charge of it will be compressed.As a result a plasma forms in this area.And air as an energetic plasma requires far much volume!Suddenly the whole implosion theory makes much more sense as the reported pulsing is not a result of changing air pressures but the same effect we have on a dead simple scream jet engine.Also explains why the pulsing stopped when the visible outer glow started - the plasme was no longer forming in interrupts but from then on is ongoing.The whole repulsine literally went silent apart from the noise of the bearings and airflow.What does that now mean for the "free energy" fans and claims that the repulsine never actually worked?This might shock you to hear but we are still missing some of the laws of physics.Namely those based on resonance and harmonics.I really don't want to prove that I am officially a nut case but did you ever check the so called "bearing motor" ?Just bearings, a metal axle and lots pow amps - and it spins like mad!Nothing efficient, unless you have massive amounts of energy to waste!The official claims from so called experts:The laws of physics tell us that it is impossible to create energy.It is also impossible to transmit or transform energy without losses.Therfor the repulsine can not sustain its rotation from the airflow.My claim is, since the abundance of energy is evident by the glow:The nozzle design supports the best possible way to utilise the energy from the airflow.If it has to come out anyway then in a manner that helps to keep the spin up.And with the outer hull on one charge and the inner on the opposite charge: what is between the two?Right, a set of bearings forming a bearing motor....But since we still neither fully understand plasmas, nor how to really use them as a source to create electrical power: what the heck do I know....

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  • So you registered just to post a reply on a 2 year old topic?Not only did things change a bit since then but:If you find a typo in my text then you can use it freely and to your liking.But if you use my typos o make money I would like to see a small percentage from the earnings ;)

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  • Tried to mention this several times, most got ignored.The one that got a reply from support states all if fine....Seems you are imagining things here Rick ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on wdemarche's forum topic DIY Scuba Tank (breath underwater)2 months ago

    There is a reason for all these laws and regulation in regards to breathable air tank supplies and the related equippment.They all were made after too many people tried what you want to try.It all sounds fun and easy but if things can go wrong then they do, sooner rather then later.In theory I would have no problems at all making my own low tech scuba gear.Quite easy actually as I have all required parts at hand.Still I would not even try it.....

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  • Downunder35m commented on Worby10's forum topic Circuit design2 months ago

    A counter IC, two flip-flops, a few resitors, or go overboard and use a microcontroller.You can even go old school with relaysOne timer relay set to one or two seconds and self locking so the timer keeps running.One contact is in series with the second relay and the switch.So only while the timer relay is on a flick of the switch will power the second relay.If in doubt add one more relay so you can turn the lights off too.

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  • Bench grinder wheels are no big deal and usually not of the same quality as a trua sharpening stone.Trust me, nothing beats square when it comes to manual sharpening.Too hard to get a decent run when you start on a round piece.But from a certain diameter onwards those wheels come in handy.At slow speeds and with water they produce a really nice hollow edge, like on a straight razor blade.And I agree on the cheap diamond plates.Cheaply produced by putting grid on a plate and then electroplating nickel on it.In the finer grits this often causes the grid to be used off with the nickel holding it.You are left then with a rough and pitted surface.Quality ones do last though.I have a block with 4 different grits and after over 2 years of good use it still performs like on the first day.An alt...

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    Bench grinder wheels are no big deal and usually not of the same quality as a trua sharpening stone.Trust me, nothing beats square when it comes to manual sharpening.Too hard to get a decent run when you start on a round piece.But from a certain diameter onwards those wheels come in handy.At slow speeds and with water they produce a really nice hollow edge, like on a straight razor blade.And I agree on the cheap diamond plates.Cheaply produced by putting grid on a plate and then electroplating nickel on it.In the finer grits this often causes the grid to be used off with the nickel holding it.You are left then with a rough and pitted surface.Quality ones do last though.I have a block with 4 different grits and after over 2 years of good use it still performs like on the first day.An alternative for the toolbox is a piece of ceramic tile.Sometimes you are lucky and find an outdoor or wetroom tile with a flat surface and just the right roughness.And in about 50% of cases the material is hard enough to be misused.Not so good for the course grits but certainly a throw away alternative to very expensive honing stones.Really good for the maintenance on a wood chisel.Just run it over the tile a few times when done using it and it stays nice and sharp.

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