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  • FlorinJ commented on seamster's instructable How to Make Easy Custom Imprints in Wood23 days ago
    How to Make Easy Custom Imprints in Wood

    I'd place a piece of thicker sheet metal on top of the shapes before pounding, to make sure the shapes don't move away from where I place them, when pounded. But I like the idea - possibly will use it too.The wire sold where I live as rebar tie wire is IMO too thin for this. Luckily I have bought a coil of 12 gauge/2 mm wire in the past, for other uses, and still have plenty. That thickness is IMO more appropriate for shapes to be imprint in wood.Just in case you have tried it: how well does this work with hardwood?

    You'll never get a similarly even shape, with burning by hand after a printed contour.

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  • FlorinJ commented on kenny kaf's instructable Table Saw Sled / Cross Cut Sled4 weeks ago
    Table Saw Sled / Cross Cut Sled

    Base plate is a bit thick for my taste - takes a sizable portion of the cut depth away. Some thinner birch plywood would allow for pretty much the same rigidity for less thickness. 5/16" (~ 8mm) should be enough, I believe. The sled with the thinnest base plate I've built uses 1/4" (6 mm) birch plywood. Works like a charm.What I've found is that when you attach the front fence it's useful to first glue it in place, with great care to get a perfectly right angle to the blade, then, after the glue has dried, drill and screw. Makes it easier to get the right angle perfectly right.Another thing about the front fence: taper off the bottom edge that faces the blade before attaching it to the base plate. Sawdust will get stuck there, regardless of whether you taper it off or not. But...

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    Base plate is a bit thick for my taste - takes a sizable portion of the cut depth away. Some thinner birch plywood would allow for pretty much the same rigidity for less thickness. 5/16" (~ 8mm) should be enough, I believe. The sled with the thinnest base plate I've built uses 1/4" (6 mm) birch plywood. Works like a charm.What I've found is that when you attach the front fence it's useful to first glue it in place, with great care to get a perfectly right angle to the blade, then, after the glue has dried, drill and screw. Makes it easier to get the right angle perfectly right.Another thing about the front fence: taper off the bottom edge that faces the blade before attaching it to the base plate. Sawdust will get stuck there, regardless of whether you taper it off or not. But if it's tapered, the sawdust will not cause the piece you're sawing to misalign with the front fence at the bottom, yielding a sloped bottom of the cut. (I hope this is understandable - don't know how to attach pictures here.)

    The sled has two fences, one behind the blade and one in front of the blade. Fence in front of the blade, bottom edge closest to the blade.I suppose you could add one after the fence is attached - scraping it into the wood, using a marking knife or something similar. Or a wood chisel with a slanted edge.

    I've found that a sled combined with extension tables sideways plus a larger outfeed table will let you cut larger pieces on a very small saw. Plus, on small, DIY/hobby saws, there's almost always something wrong with the miter gauge - it wiggles. Fences are also less than accurate on such saws. A sled greatly improves the precision of what you can do with small, hobby/DIY saws, IME.The one thing I don't like, on the saw used in this project, is the blade. You can put any sled you want, on that saw, I don't see how you can get a really clean, tearless, smooth cut.

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  • FlorinJ commented on dankly1's instructable Cheap DIY Front Panels4 weeks ago
    Cheap DIY Front Panels

    You can also print the panel on paper, laminate the paper on one side (just put two sheets into the laminating foil, and cut the edges off afterwards - each sheet will be paper on one side and plastic on the other, after that), then glue it to perspex, cardboard, plywood or aluminum, and then cut out the holes. You can do the drawing in anything that lets you print with sub-mm precision - like inkscape, for example, which is also free software. Dia also has a lot of predefined shapes/stencils which you might find useful, and from which you can export svg, then import it in inkscape and do the precise sizing there.Less risk of damaging the printer. Also no concerns about the ethical use of proprietary software.

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  • FlorinJ commented on seamster's instructable Height-Adjustable Portable Vise Stand5 weeks ago
    Height-Adjustable Portable Vise Stand

    By them, clean them up, make them shine, sell them on ebay and make a buck. There are plenty of places around the world where better quality DIY-grade tools are not at all easy to come by.

    I think even a scissor jack would work, if it had arms long enough. A tripod car jack ... Idunno. Could be a tiny bit shaky. I wouldn't like that in a vise stand.

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  • FlorinJ commented on darkin100's instructable How to Build a GFRC Concrete Sink6 weeks ago
    How to Build a GFRC Concrete Sink

    Don't use oil of any kind for making the mold easier to extract. Oil (or any other fat) reacts with the bases in the concrete and turns to soap, but in the process those bases no longer contribute to the reactions which make the concrete strong. What you'll get is crumbly concrete on the surfaces. Instead you could try some synthetic wax - animal waxes, such as beeswax or vegetable waxes, are not that inert.In order to be able to remove the mold easier you can also shape it from multiple pieces - one wedge-like/trapezoidal section in the middle of each surface, for example. True, that would most likely leave marks on each surface, after demolding, and that would need sanding, but on one hand with anything concrete if you want it polished you need to sand, on the other hand the seam trac...

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    Don't use oil of any kind for making the mold easier to extract. Oil (or any other fat) reacts with the bases in the concrete and turns to soap, but in the process those bases no longer contribute to the reactions which make the concrete strong. What you'll get is crumbly concrete on the surfaces. Instead you could try some synthetic wax - animal waxes, such as beeswax or vegetable waxes, are not that inert.In order to be able to remove the mold easier you can also shape it from multiple pieces - one wedge-like/trapezoidal section in the middle of each surface, for example. True, that would most likely leave marks on each surface, after demolding, and that would need sanding, but on one hand with anything concrete if you want it polished you need to sand, on the other hand the seam traces left in the middle of each surface should be easy to sand mechanically, nothing like a scratch.

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  • FlorinJ commented on a mateen's instructable Razor Saw7 weeks ago
    Razor Saw

    Not really. What this saw comes closest, in shape, is a Japanese dozuki, which always has a back spine, since it's one of the thinner Japanese saws, intended for very precise cuts. At just slightly over 0.3 mm thickness, the blade also isn't that far away from that of a Japanese dozuki, so the back spine is absolutely necessary. The kataba, which is the japanese saw of sometimes comparable shape that has no back spine, is about twice as thick.Japanese saws don't _always_ work better than Western type saws. In particular, they don't work that well on tough hardwoods like oak or hornbeam or even birch - those woods need harder and heavier tools and more force applied when cutting than pine or paulownia or other softer woods - unlike Europeans, Japanese carpenters use mostly softwoods, tra...

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    Not really. What this saw comes closest, in shape, is a Japanese dozuki, which always has a back spine, since it's one of the thinner Japanese saws, intended for very precise cuts. At just slightly over 0.3 mm thickness, the blade also isn't that far away from that of a Japanese dozuki, so the back spine is absolutely necessary. The kataba, which is the japanese saw of sometimes comparable shape that has no back spine, is about twice as thick.Japanese saws don't _always_ work better than Western type saws. In particular, they don't work that well on tough hardwoods like oak or hornbeam or even birch - those woods need harder and heavier tools and more force applied when cutting than pine or paulownia or other softer woods - unlike Europeans, Japanese carpenters use mostly softwoods, traditionally, and the human body cannot apply as much force on the pull as it can on the push. You need maybe four times longer to cut through a piece of hardwood with a ryoba compared to a typical European style foxtail crosscut saw. In hardwoods, even if the kerf is wider, properly sharpened European style saws leave a cut as clean and as smooth as any Japanese saw leaves in softwood.

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  • Parametric Media Console - Using Locally Sourced Timber

    Book matching, in my understanding, is slicing a piece of timber of rectangular section into boards, then arranging the resulting boards by sliding one down without any flipping, then flipping the next one around an axis along the length of the board, then sliding one down again without flipping it, and so on. Every second board will have its growth rings curvature in opposite directions, due to being flipped. If the boards cup, alternating boards will cup in opposite directions.Slip and turn - flipping every second board around an axis along the board's width - does achieve the same alternating orientation of the curvature of the growth rings, but it looses the alignment of the grain. At least for very long panels, I'm pretty sure the different radius of curvature of the growth rings a...

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    Book matching, in my understanding, is slicing a piece of timber of rectangular section into boards, then arranging the resulting boards by sliding one down without any flipping, then flipping the next one around an axis along the length of the board, then sliding one down again without flipping it, and so on. Every second board will have its growth rings curvature in opposite directions, due to being flipped. If the boards cup, alternating boards will cup in opposite directions.Slip and turn - flipping every second board around an axis along the board's width - does achieve the same alternating orientation of the curvature of the growth rings, but it looses the alignment of the grain. At least for very long panels, I'm pretty sure the different radius of curvature of the growth rings at different positions along the stem will have a detrimental effect on the panel's stability.The matching pattern that does bring adjacent boards' curvature of the growth rings in the same direction is book and turn matching - the same way as book matching, but then, after having arranged the boards, you flip every second board around its width, same as for slip and turn. I have no idea why someone would choose that one, except for some specific visual effect.

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  • Parametric Media Console - Using Locally Sourced Timber

    "book matching (...) serves no real structural benefit" - that's not right. It _does_ serve a benefit when you do panels.Usually, for panels, you don't slice boards, you slice a thicker, rectangular piece of wood, and assemble the boards so that edges there were adjacent before cutting are also adjacent after gluing. This avoids strong visual breaks in color and texture, and makes it less apparent that the panel was made from multiple pieces of wood, but also has an important structural benefit: panels glued this way are less likely to cup, twist or bend.The reason for lower appetite to deformation is the resulting layout of the fiber. Boards adjacent to each other before cutting have a tendency to deform in the same direction. By placing them alternatively face up then face d...

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    "book matching (...) serves no real structural benefit" - that's not right. It _does_ serve a benefit when you do panels.Usually, for panels, you don't slice boards, you slice a thicker, rectangular piece of wood, and assemble the boards so that edges there were adjacent before cutting are also adjacent after gluing. This avoids strong visual breaks in color and texture, and makes it less apparent that the panel was made from multiple pieces of wood, but also has an important structural benefit: panels glued this way are less likely to cup, twist or bend.The reason for lower appetite to deformation is the resulting layout of the fiber. Boards adjacent to each other before cutting have a tendency to deform in the same direction. By placing them alternatively face up then face down, as they are sliced away from the thicker log, strains and stresses from one board will mostly cancel out strains and stresses from the adjacent boards, making for a more stable panel than if boards were combined randomly.

    Initially, I thought that might be, since I'm not a native English speaker and not all that familiar with carpentry terms in English. But then I looked up the various matching patterns here, and I do mean book matching. Deformations of adjacent boards may also compensate when using slip and turn matching, but you loose the nicer pattern.Plus, I'm not so sure. My thinking: regions of the wood situated close to one another in the original trunk tend to curb with similar amplitude, whereas regions of the wood situated at a larger distance may want to curb differently. Unless your boards are very short, slip and turn puts together parts of the wood that were far away from each other in the original trunk.

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  • FlorinJ commented on jleslie48's instructable Making Wood Circles With a Power Saw. 2 months ago
    Making Wood Circles With a Power Saw.

    Great jig, I built one too. Allows cutting disks of highly repeatable diameter, as long as you don't change the settings until you have finished cutting all disks.But be careful when using it. Upon each cut, until you get close to a circle shape, there's a significant risk of the material catching the blade. There's no parallel stop or sled fence to keep the material aligned, so it can easily rotate. Ideally, use a quick release clamp down clamp to fixate the material in place before each cut. Once you get to the point of shaving just a few millimeters away on each cut, the risk of catch is small, and you can hold down the workpiece with your hand only.Alternatively, you can rough cut the circle shape with a jigsaw, then there's not much material left to shave off with the miter or tabl...

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    Great jig, I built one too. Allows cutting disks of highly repeatable diameter, as long as you don't change the settings until you have finished cutting all disks.But be careful when using it. Upon each cut, until you get close to a circle shape, there's a significant risk of the material catching the blade. There's no parallel stop or sled fence to keep the material aligned, so it can easily rotate. Ideally, use a quick release clamp down clamp to fixate the material in place before each cut. Once you get to the point of shaving just a few millimeters away on each cut, the risk of catch is small, and you can hold down the workpiece with your hand only.Alternatively, you can rough cut the circle shape with a jigsaw, then there's not much material left to shave off with the miter or table saw anymore from the get go. Makes the whole process faster too.

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  • FlorinJ commented on Pablos Casita's instructable LED-light for Drill Press2 months ago
    LED-light for Drill Press

    I'm using one of these: https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30400370/. There's many places where I occasionally need good lighting, and this one can be moved around.

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  • Beginners Guide on How to Polish Brass to a Mirror Finish

    A very fine grained material (around a few microns down to fractions of microns, that's in the range of 25000 grit), readily available, is cigarette ash. It consists mainly of metallic oxides, which makes it quite hard and abrasive. Wet cigarette ash rubbed on with a soft fine cloth makes for an excellent polish.

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  • FlorinJ commented on jessyratfink's instructable How and When to Water Your Houseplants5 months ago
    How and When to Water Your Houseplants

    How much water a plant needs is a complex matter. It depends on how much sun the plant gets, what the average temperature is, the kind of plant, what kind of pot it has, how large or how small the plant and the pot are, and of course, the kind of plant. It even matters how you water the plant. Some cacti for example will die if you regularly water them by putting water in the tray and letting the soil suck it up from the bottom - they absolutely need to be watered from the top. Tillandsia needs dry soil and you have to water it so that small pools form at the base of the leafs - but only once in a while, so as the pools not to completely dry out. If you only water the soil, they will wrap up all their leaves into a green stick, and not do much vegetation. Lithops need watering only six ...

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    How much water a plant needs is a complex matter. It depends on how much sun the plant gets, what the average temperature is, the kind of plant, what kind of pot it has, how large or how small the plant and the pot are, and of course, the kind of plant. It even matters how you water the plant. Some cacti for example will die if you regularly water them by putting water in the tray and letting the soil suck it up from the bottom - they absolutely need to be watered from the top. Tillandsia needs dry soil and you have to water it so that small pools form at the base of the leafs - but only once in a while, so as the pools not to completely dry out. If you only water the soil, they will wrap up all their leaves into a green stick, and not do much vegetation. Lithops need watering only six months of the year - spring and end of summer to early autumn. Water them once in winter and they will die.Tools don't tell you much unless you correlate that with all the other factors. Best thing to do is find some caring instructions, stick to them for a while, then experiment by slightly varying the watering process - just slightly, and slowly, to have enough time to observe the effect of the changes on the plant. Each plant has different preferences, even plants of the same kind may like different watering. There's no one size fits all.

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  • Cyclonic Separator Shop-Vac With Secondary Water Filtration (Wet Scrubber) Made From Junk.. This Is Version Mark 2 of the Cyclonic Dust Collector Shop-Vac.

    I initially wanted to do something similar, but gave up. This build will clean the exit air very well, but will also evaporate a lot of water - not something you want in a wood working shop.

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  • FlorinJ commented on bryans workshop's instructable How to Make Mosaic Rock Pavers!6 months ago
    How to Make Mosaic Rock Pavers!

    At that size, I'd add in some wire mesh as reinforcement, to prevent cracking, in case a car wheel incidentally rolls across the middle of the tile, for example. Two layers, one maybe half an inch beneath/atop the stones, one another inch farther, with a total two inches thickness of the paver, I'd say.I'd also trim the trays at the same height, and instead of just smoothing it with the trowel I'd shave off the excess with a board, to ensure all pavers are exactly the same height - laying pavers of different height is a pain. And I would make sure the walls of my trays are strictly perpendicular to the bottom, not slanted - If I want a slant of the sides at all I want it so the upper edges stick out, not the bottom. If the bottom sticks out, I'll have ugly visible empty spaces between t...

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    At that size, I'd add in some wire mesh as reinforcement, to prevent cracking, in case a car wheel incidentally rolls across the middle of the tile, for example. Two layers, one maybe half an inch beneath/atop the stones, one another inch farther, with a total two inches thickness of the paver, I'd say.I'd also trim the trays at the same height, and instead of just smoothing it with the trowel I'd shave off the excess with a board, to ensure all pavers are exactly the same height - laying pavers of different height is a pain. And I would make sure the walls of my trays are strictly perpendicular to the bottom, not slanted - If I want a slant of the sides at all I want it so the upper edges stick out, not the bottom. If the bottom sticks out, I'll have ugly visible empty spaces between the pavers.

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  • How to Choose the Right Pot or Planter for a Plant

    There's also other disadvantages to plastic pots: they don't breed, i.e. there's no air flow through the pot walls, and what little substances they leech into the soil, while not outright harming the plant, has a slightly detrimental effect on the bacteria in the soil.Glazed ceramic pots also don't breed, but at least don't leech anything. The water being absorbed into the pot walls of ceramic pots can affect the integrity of the pot, causing the glaze to crumble and fall off, especially if the pot is left out to freeze when wet.Not all pots sold as terracotta are equal. Some of the lower quality ones, oftentimes painted or glazed ones, or pots without the typical terracotta color, are often prone to being heavily infested by algae or crack and crumble, after a few years of seasonal cha...

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    There's also other disadvantages to plastic pots: they don't breed, i.e. there's no air flow through the pot walls, and what little substances they leech into the soil, while not outright harming the plant, has a slightly detrimental effect on the bacteria in the soil.Glazed ceramic pots also don't breed, but at least don't leech anything. The water being absorbed into the pot walls of ceramic pots can affect the integrity of the pot, causing the glaze to crumble and fall off, especially if the pot is left out to freeze when wet.Not all pots sold as terracotta are equal. Some of the lower quality ones, oftentimes painted or glazed ones, or pots without the typical terracotta color, are often prone to being heavily infested by algae or crack and crumble, after a few years of seasonal changes.This being said, most pots will do well for many years if not left outside in the winter and not exposed to direct sunlight during the summer.

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  • FlorinJ commented on aglepetsos01's instructable Homemade Pontoon Boat6 months ago
    Homemade Pontoon Boat

    That will only make them rust later. But not very much later. Plus, you don't need much surface rust for a strap to break - and surface rust is what the nickel or chrome layer protects from. Rust in depth in a microscopic crack, or along a scratch caused by rubbing against pebbles or left behind by a screw driver, which is even more likely to develop under stress, can result in an unexpectedly broken strap.What you can look for: oftentimes, ware on pallets is strapped in place with a sort of woven and then impregnated synthetic straps. Boxes of fridges, cooking stoves, cloth washers or similar are also tied with such straps. These are never reused. You should be able to get tons of them for free from bigger stores, or any kind of shop that gets things delivered in bulk. That thing is so...

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    That will only make them rust later. But not very much later. Plus, you don't need much surface rust for a strap to break - and surface rust is what the nickel or chrome layer protects from. Rust in depth in a microscopic crack, or along a scratch caused by rubbing against pebbles or left behind by a screw driver, which is even more likely to develop under stress, can result in an unexpectedly broken strap.What you can look for: oftentimes, ware on pallets is strapped in place with a sort of woven and then impregnated synthetic straps. Boxes of fridges, cooking stoves, cloth washers or similar are also tied with such straps. These are never reused. You should be able to get tons of them for free from bigger stores, or any kind of shop that gets things delivered in bulk. That thing is so strong and wear resistant that I've heard of people splitting it into strands then braid it into bow strings.

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  • FlorinJ commented on aglepetsos01's instructable Homemade Pontoon Boat6 months ago
    Homemade Pontoon Boat

    Be prepared to replace the metallic hanger straps often. Would be nice to replace them with something plastic, less prone to corrosion.

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  • Preserve the Beauty of Raw or Rusted Steel & Iron Surfaces

    You can also change the gloss level with very fine steel wool. Pass over the table in many different directions, without pressing too hard. The microscopic scratches left behind will not be enough to damage the coating, or to make it non-transparent, but will take away the gloss.

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  • Dip Dyed Coffee Filter Paper Flower Wreath

    I doubt you're allergic to every part of the flower. You're most likely allergic to pollen and other kinds of fine dust. You can try to grow green plants, which don't bloom. They're nice too. And some are also highly decorative.

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  • FlorinJ commented on Creativity Buzz's instructable Ice Cream Machine7 months ago
    Ice Cream Machine

    Try operating the drill at lower rotation speeds - there's no need for the high speed.In order to make the ice cream taste better, add some heavy cream and beat an egg yolk or two into the mix, plus some vanilla flavoring. Heat everything for a few minutes - but careful, so that it should not boil, or the egg yolk will curdle. (In case you have a kitchen thermometer: theory says 70 something degrees Celsius, if you keep it at 70 +/- 1 it's good enough.) Let it cool, and only then make the ice cream.Alternatively, you can prepare only about 1/2, 2/3 or 3/4 of the quantity (without the vanilla flavoring), let it cool, and then mix some mashed, strongly flavored fruit into it - very ripe mango, ripe strawberries, raspberries or passion fruit. Pass the pulp through a strainer, for fruit wit...

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    Try operating the drill at lower rotation speeds - there's no need for the high speed.In order to make the ice cream taste better, add some heavy cream and beat an egg yolk or two into the mix, plus some vanilla flavoring. Heat everything for a few minutes - but careful, so that it should not boil, or the egg yolk will curdle. (In case you have a kitchen thermometer: theory says 70 something degrees Celsius, if you keep it at 70 +/- 1 it's good enough.) Let it cool, and only then make the ice cream.Alternatively, you can prepare only about 1/2, 2/3 or 3/4 of the quantity (without the vanilla flavoring), let it cool, and then mix some mashed, strongly flavored fruit into it - very ripe mango, ripe strawberries, raspberries or passion fruit. Pass the pulp through a strainer, for fruit with seeds, such as strawberries or raspberries - they're ruining the ice cream's texture otherwise. If you add fruit, also add the juice of half a lemon - it makes the fruit flavor come out stronger. Boiling or even heating the fruit is damaging to the flavor, therefore don't add it while the mix is still hot. You'll have to experiment with proportions to get what you like best in creaminess and flavor.(I am a sucker for flavor, so it's worth the additional effort to me.)

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  • FlorinJ commented on stillash's instructable Natural Beeswax Wood Polish 7 months ago
    Natural Beeswax Wood Polish

    It does, but only partially, and you have to redo it periodically.The wax goes into the wood pores, but doesn't seal the wood completely. If something wet, like red wine or blueberry juice, isn't cleaned quickly, it goes deep into the wood and stains it permanently. If something less fluid, like ash or charcoal, falls onto the wood, it doesn't go deep into the pores, can be cleaned off by rubbing the wood thoroughly, and then the waxing can be redone. Without the wax, even cocoa powder would get a hold onto wood, making it close to impossible to clean.I use beeswax un-mixed with oil to once in a blue moon (that's maybe every five of seven years) redo a wooden board I use for kneading dough - I repeatedly heat it with a heat gun and rub it in. Without the wax, dough sticks quite easily t...

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    It does, but only partially, and you have to redo it periodically.The wax goes into the wood pores, but doesn't seal the wood completely. If something wet, like red wine or blueberry juice, isn't cleaned quickly, it goes deep into the wood and stains it permanently. If something less fluid, like ash or charcoal, falls onto the wood, it doesn't go deep into the pores, can be cleaned off by rubbing the wood thoroughly, and then the waxing can be redone. Without the wax, even cocoa powder would get a hold onto wood, making it close to impossible to clean.I use beeswax un-mixed with oil to once in a blue moon (that's maybe every five of seven years) redo a wooden board I use for kneading dough - I repeatedly heat it with a heat gun and rub it in. Without the wax, dough sticks quite easily to the board. With the wax, it has to be really-really sticky to stick. Even then, it's rather easy to rub off. However, I don't much care about stains on that board, nor does it usually get in touch with staining things. The occasional re-waxing keeps the wood's look fresh, as if it was just sawn.

    Yeawrs ago, I recall boiling small pieces in wax in order to stabilize them. They were pretty much as stable as vacuum-epoxy-soaked wood after half an hour of boiling. I used this for very simple and plain knife handles (but with a very good grip) and small pulleys.

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  • FlorinJ commented on tomatoskins's instructable Hot Pipe Wood Bending9 months ago
    Hot Pipe Wood Bending

    Never had much success with a DIY steambox. Definitely will give this a try - just today I needed to bend two 1/5" sticks for a napkin holder, and I'll need several slightly bent ~1/6" strips for the legs of a side table in the near future.

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  • FlorinJ commented on tomatoskins's instructable 20 Unusual Uses for Shop Tools9 months ago
    20 Unusual Uses for Shop Tools

    I'm still convinced that in DYI-ers' workshops a hand drill is more common than a metal lathe.

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  • FlorinJ commented on Mrballeng's instructable Candle Polish Wood9 months ago
    Candle Polish Wood

    I did this to a wooden kneading board, but instead of using paper towels for rubbing I used very coarse sackcloth, which I also switched often. I also used pure beeswax (had a bee keeping granddad, and kept myself a few families, several years ago). In the end, the wood looked like it hadn't received any treatment, but no water would stick to it - and almost no dough. You need to redo the finish every few years, though (at least if you actually use the board). I wouldn't recommend it for surfaces coming into contact with hot objects - that would damage the wax layer way faster (it only goes fractions of a millimeter into the wood, and is therefore easily melted and damaged by hot objects).

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  • FlorinJ commented on tomatoskins's instructable 20 Unusual Uses for Shop Tools9 months ago
    20 Unusual Uses for Shop Tools

    I've tried the clamps made of PVC tube rings. They're extremely weak. Either you use many-many-many of them to clamp a single small piece, or you use them on jobs where you don't need much pressure. White or yellow carpenter's glue, for example, needs more pressure than these clamps can delivery. On a job where I used a silicone-like adhesive, and only needed to keep the pieces in place until the glue cured, they were quite useful - I needed many times more clamps than I have F and C clamps.

    I've used a regular hand drill to drill on its lowest speed to drill holes in glass. The only thing you need to do is drill under water, and at the lowest speed. You don't find a metal lathe in any workshop, you usually do find a hand drill or electric screw driver, that's why I'm saying.

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  • FlorinJ commented on monickingbird's instructable Concrete Octagonal Driveway Pavers9 months ago
    Concrete Octagonal Driveway Pavers

    In spite of what previous commenters say, I wouldn't use anything greasy for easing demolding. Cement in water yields a caustic solution, which in turn dissolves fat, or even forms soap-like compounds. You don't want the caustic substances dissolved in the water which is contained by the concrete mix to be diverted from their hardening role. Rather, I'd lacquer or wax the molds - lacquer or wax are chemically inert, or at least don't interact chemically with the concrete mix. Of course, the oil won't penetrate deep into the concrete, to make the pavers completely fragile, but it will affect the surface that's in contact with the mold. Even if it looks OK initially, it will wear easier than if no oil was used, down to maybe a fraction of a millimeter.

    That plastic does not allow water to run out of the poured concrete is actually a good thing - and you should stick with plastic. Curing is not drying, it's a chemical reaction which consumes water. If water leeches out of your poured concrete, it takes chemicals which are needed for the concrete to harden with it.

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  • How to Sharpen Used and Dull Drill Bits (By Hand!!)

    Carbon steel, at least, gets into the range of tempering temperatures before it starts to glow. As soon as it turns blue, you're in the danger zone - there's a range of temperatures, above the blue temperature, where it becomes gray again, and in that range you can't really tell if it's acceptably cool or too hot to keep its hardness.

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  • How to Sharpen Used and Dull Drill Bits (By Hand!!)

    To my knowledge, rapid steels are quenched and tempered at temperatures in the range of 400 to 700 degrees Celsius. When the metal gets bright red from grinding, it's well above those temperatures. It may not get as soft as a plain carbon steel when cooling, but it will for sure no longer be very hard.Many woodworking drill bits, especially larger ones, are indeed carbon steel, since they're not needed to withstand temperatures too high - wood smokes well below 400 degrees Celsius, and you don't want burn marks in your holes. Carbon steel becomes soft at even lower temperatures.

    As a trained toolmaker, maybe you could answer this question: is sharpening a dull drill bit on a bench grinder OK? Doesn't the bit easily overheat and loose hardness, turning it useless?

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  • FlorinJ commented on Olivier Iserbyt's instructable USB Foam Cutter (PVC) - Hot Wire10 months ago
    USB Foam Cutter (PVC) - Hot Wire

    Actually, it seems that stainless steel and nichrome have comparable resistivity: https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/resistivity-conductivity-d_418.html. Surprises me too. I would have expected stainless steel to be a pretty bad conductor, but not that bad.

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  • FlorinJ commented on Olivier Iserbyt's instructable USB Foam Cutter (PVC) - Hot Wire10 months ago
    USB Foam Cutter (PVC) - Hot Wire

    Too much resistance can't hurt the battery or charger. Only too little can - too little is equivalent to a short circuit.However, too much resistance might mean too little heat development to cut effectively.

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  • FlorinJ commented on JackmanWorks's instructable Pallet Wood End Grain Coasters10 months ago
    Pallet Wood End Grain Coasters

    You sure all pallets you started with were of untreated wood? Why I'm asking: around where I live, most pallets, besides being made of wood barely usable for fire, are also most often impregnated wich chemicals to repel insects, mold and whatnot - in general substances toxic for humans.

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  • Heat Recovery Ventilator (Double Flow Controlled Mechanical Ventilation)

    Two questions.1) Wouldn't a slower air flow increase the heat exchange efficiency?2) Would building a counterflow heat exchanger be that much more difficult, using the same technique of creating air channels, only completely sealing off the sides, and, instead of sealing off a whole edge of a pair of plates on the other two sides, have alternating short sealed/unsealed segments along each edge to make the channels for both in- and out-flow?I'm thinking of ways to get the exchanger's efficiency above 95%, that's why I ask.

    The box _would_ be rigid, only the foil would not. The slightest difference in pressure between the inflow and the outflow would bend it out of shape, completely disturbing the flow, potentially breaking the foil. Stretching out the foil so that it cannot bend would rip it apart from before even getting everything set up.What you could do is make the flow slower and the distance between plates larger. Then you could go ahead with foil, since even if it bends it wouldn't be enough to block the air stream. But a larger distance between sheets means a larger box and less good heat exchange.

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  • FlorinJ commented on Mimikry's instructable Easy Pyrography Ornaments11 months ago
    Easy Pyrography Ornaments

    Thanks - thought it was birch, initially, but the pic showing the log doesn't show the bark to be very white, so I was unsure.

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  • FlorinJ commented on Mimikry's instructable Easy Pyrography Ornaments11 months ago
    Easy Pyrography Ornaments

    What was that wood you used?

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  • FlorinJ commented on Pricklysauce's instructable Window Latch11 months ago
    Window Latch

    I absolutely love the simplicity of both the window latch, the barrel bolt and the window stay, the more so since simplicity is mostly a forgotten concept in the world we live in.

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  • FlorinJ commented on beckstar29's instructable Iron Man! How I Made My Own Metallic Piece11 months ago
    Iron Man! How I Made My Own Metallic Piece

    I have absolutely no clue about casting resin, so I have to ask: why two moulds and the intermediate cast?

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  • FlorinJ commented on Left-field Designs's instructable DIY Self-Locking Nut11 months ago
    DIY Self-Locking Nut

    As the video in another comment shows, this just makes it harder/slower for the nut to come loose. What I do, when there's space or the right geometry: screw a small piece of irregularly shaped thin sheet metal (like a piece of tin can, for example) beneath the nut, then bend the sheet metal around some detail of the workpiece, or screw it in place with a small additional screw on a side, and also bend it upwards, to partially wrap the nut. For the nut to come loose, it would need to un-bend the sheet metal.Another method is to drill a hole through both the nut and the screw, once the nut is fastened, stick a metal wire through the hole and wrap it around. But this is limited to larger diameter nuts and bolts, and not as easy and fast as the method in the post above.

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  • FlorinJ commented on VEKSIR's instructable Reclaimed Pallet Fish Tank Stand11 months ago
    Reclaimed Pallet Fish Tank Stand

    Some pallets are chemically treated in a way that makes their wood unsafe for indoor use. Did you look into this?

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  • FlorinJ commented on bjkayani's instructable Outdoor Pizza Oven11 months ago
    Outdoor Pizza Oven

    Ehem ... someone from yet another end of the world here.No need for firebricks and refractory mortar. In my part of the world, traditional bread ovens are pretty much unchanged since Roman antiquity: a heavy build of regular fired bricks and clay - no cement. The clay is left to dry for months, after the oven is built, then, upon the first firing, the heating is slow and progressive, until the oven, in spite of its thick walls (up to 16"/40cm) can't be touched. The inside becomes a compact mass of low-fire ceramics, the outside hardens just enough to resist wear. The only way to damage such an oven, besides a bulldozer, is to throw a bucket of water into the fireplace when the oven is glowing hot. (And it bakes like no modern oven does.)My point: if the oven in this ible survived i...

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    Ehem ... someone from yet another end of the world here.No need for firebricks and refractory mortar. In my part of the world, traditional bread ovens are pretty much unchanged since Roman antiquity: a heavy build of regular fired bricks and clay - no cement. The clay is left to dry for months, after the oven is built, then, upon the first firing, the heating is slow and progressive, until the oven, in spite of its thick walls (up to 16"/40cm) can't be touched. The inside becomes a compact mass of low-fire ceramics, the outside hardens just enough to resist wear. The only way to damage such an oven, besides a bulldozer, is to throw a bucket of water into the fireplace when the oven is glowing hot. (And it bakes like no modern oven does.)My point: if the oven in this ible survived its first firing, the mud probably partially became low fire ceramics, and the oven is now pretty much safe to use. Just make sure it's dry before firing it, or heat it up slowly, so humidity can leave the oven walls without cracking them.

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  • FlorinJ commented on fixthisbuildthat's instructable 5 Ways to Print on Wood1 year ago
    5 Ways to Print on Wood

    How about laser printing the mirrored image on transparent foil, then gluing with a completely transparent glue and the image on the inside? You would not need to apply lacquer and the actual print would be protected from the elements.

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  • FlorinJ commented on manuelmasc's instructable HDPE Blocks From Plastic Bottles1 year ago
    HDPE Blocks From Plastic Bottles

    Don't worry, they are also easier to scratch and then they'll no longer be easier to clean :-) OTOH, you can always make new ones with only the cost of the gas/electricity to re-heat the old ones.Pressing the melted HDPE into more complex shapes to make a bathroom mat was my first thought, though, so I can understand why you made tiles out of them.

    In the same vein as the one suggesting ironing the boards through a sheet of baking paper, you could roll over the baking sheet with a somewhat thicker iron rod heated a bit - not red hot, that would melt the plastic completely.I wouldn't expect a thickness planer to leave plastic completely smooth. Plastic chips differently than wood, I'd expect sort of a grainy texture, almost smooth but not quite, to remain on the board.What you could also do is spread some acetone on the board, and let the board dry out slowly after brushing the surface with a soft paint brush. Acetone dissolves polyethylene, brushing across the board with a soft paintbrush would probably dissolve the rough edges standing out of the surface and fill the grooves with the resulting solution.

    You can only microwave materials which are at least somewhat conductive, or contain particles or substances which are conductive. Plastics in general are insulators. HDPE absorbs very little water, so clean and dry HDPE can most likely not be heated in a microwave owen.

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  • FlorinJ commented on matt's instructable The Original Potato Cannon1 year ago
    The Original Potato Cannon

    You could use a potato gun with legumes as bird shot, then :-)

    Sure you can. It will reduce the range, though.

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  • FlorinJ commented on mikeasaurus's instructable Unusual Uses for WD-401 year ago
    Unusual Uses for WD-40

    Hardened polyurethane foam or adhesive is impossible to get off your hands, once cured - it seems nothing that doesn't dissolve your skin first is able to dissolve it. Thoroughly greasing your hands, leaving them to stay so for a while (I grease my hands thoroughly with spent cooking oil, then put on a pair of rubber gloves, for up to half an hour), then gently rubbing with a rough cloth peels off most of the polyurethane without taking too much of the skin with it. I wonder if WD-40, with its penetrating solvent and fat residue, might work for cleaning polyurethane off your hands. (I've gotten good at not getting polyurethane on my hands, though, so chances for me to try this out soon are small.)

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  • DIY Concrete and Steel Outdoor End Table | How to Build - Welding

    How about making the stand first, attaching it rigidly to the form so that the top part is embedded in concrete, and then pouring? You could use thinner rebar, maybe some thick wire mesh, at the top, providing some reinforcement for the concrete. Would that work? If yes, I think it would be less work overall.

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  • FlorinJ commented on edyson-'s instructable Old Chair Transformation1 year ago
    Old Chair Transformation

    I was thinking something along the same lines :-)

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  • Simple Sled for Perfect Segmented Bowls

    If you know what a segmented bowl is, it's obvious. If you don't, no amount of description will be of any use.

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  • The Smallest Workshop in the World

    Might give you a few ideas about building the lathe: He also has lots of other videos about building tools.

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  • FlorinJ commented on geotek's instructable Making Box Joints1 year ago
    Making Box Joints

    :-) I have a (self-made) jig that can cut any finger/gap width that's a multiple of 2 mm - that's the step length of the threaded rod I have used (about 1/12"), and also very close to the kerf of the blade I use - the blade is 0.1 mm wider, just enough for 6-8 mm fingers to fit tightly but not too tight into the gaps . For example, for 8 mm(~ 1/3") fingers/gaps, you'd cut every step for four steps/turns of the threaded rod, then skip four turns, and repeat.

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  • FlorinJ commented on aCuriousCreator's instructable Wooden Biltong Box1 year ago
    Wooden Biltong Box

    Tearout: tape won't cut it. You need a different blade.

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  • FlorinJ commented on geotek's instructable Making Box Joints1 year ago
    Making Box Joints

    You can make finger joints using a regular blade too. You only have to make more passes for one slot. You just need a mechanism or something to precisely control advance in relation to your blade's thickness. I've seen two variants so far: one using a screw with a known step size and another one using cogwheels. The simplest one, which I partially replicated, using a screw, is on the darbin orwar channel on youtube. It should be probably easily guessable: the one using cogwheels is also exemplified on youtube on Matthias Wandel's channel.

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  • FlorinJ commented on jessyratfink's instructable Unusual Uses for Rice1 year ago
    Unusual Uses for Rice

    Those who starve are no more your problem than global climate change is. As technology evolves, our planet sort of becomes smaller - it's more connected from more than just one point of view. Social or economical or environmental problems across the world affect your life too - here's an example: http://abcnews.go.com/WNT/story?id=129787&page=1. That makes hunger in Africa your problem too. For one, hunger and lack of education is fueling radical Islamic terrorist propaganda. 9/11 wasn't your problem either, right?But that's already way off topic.

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  • FlorinJ commented on jessyratfink's instructable Unusual Uses for Rice1 year ago
    Unusual Uses for Rice

    Most wood cut into planks or boards at timber yards, or used for furniture by artisan carpenter shops is not treated in any way. Some exotic wood species are irritating when their sawdust is inhaled. Few are right-out toxic. Sawdust sold for cat litter or bird cages is also not treated in any way, just pressed.

    Salt is as much food as sodium bicarbonate, sodium nitrate, sodium glutamate (found naturally in large quantities in tomatoes and matured cheeses) or sodium benzoate (used as a preservative, but also produced naturally in the body when digesting cinnamon) are.Sawdust is bad for fine mechanism. It does not ruin electronics. Plus, it depends on the graininess. You'll have a hard time cleaning very fine sawdust that has gotten into your phone. But coarser grain sawdust, such as thickness planer shavings, are safe.Rice will last for years, if kept dry. Insects can also not infest food kept in closed containers.

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  • FlorinJ commented on jessyratfink's instructable Unusual Uses for Rice1 year ago
    Unusual Uses for Rice

    I spent most of the summers of my childhood either in the countryside or high up in the mountains. In traditional homesteads, leftovers went to the pigs and hens, if there were any leftovers at all (dogs gobbled them up first, usually). High up in the mountains chances are high that spreading leftovers around will attract unwanted visitors to your camping place. Hence, I don't like wasting leftovers.I tried most of the things I described above myself, and can tell for sure that at least for most of them rice does not at all work better than sawdust. Or salt, or spent coffee grounds, depending on the specific use. Also, most sawdust is absolutely safe. I haven't heard of anybody getting poisoned from the use of wooden cutting boards or wooden spoons.There is plenty of food on the shelves...

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    I spent most of the summers of my childhood either in the countryside or high up in the mountains. In traditional homesteads, leftovers went to the pigs and hens, if there were any leftovers at all (dogs gobbled them up first, usually). High up in the mountains chances are high that spreading leftovers around will attract unwanted visitors to your camping place. Hence, I don't like wasting leftovers.I tried most of the things I described above myself, and can tell for sure that at least for most of them rice does not at all work better than sawdust. Or salt, or spent coffee grounds, depending on the specific use. Also, most sawdust is absolutely safe. I haven't heard of anybody getting poisoned from the use of wooden cutting boards or wooden spoons.There is plenty of food on the shelves of Western stores. Still, millions of people worldwide starve, tens of thousands of small children dying of hunger each day - http://www.worldhunger.org/world-child-hunger-facts/. (FYI, that's not a horror movie, it's horror reality, only, it's easy enough to ignore if you have plenty of food on your table.) Which is why I try not to waste food.And it's spelled mcgyvering.

    Rice is food. I was brought up to not use food for non-food purposes, at least not in large quantities.For most of the uses I described, I know first hand that they perform better than rice.Plus, about salt and sawdust. At least around where I live salt is abundant and cheap - we literally have a mountain of it, and that isn't even the biggest salt reserve around here. Sawdust is a byproduct, a problem most woodworking shops need to deal with, not a waste of resources perfectly usable in other ways. Sawdust is also renewable - all you have to do is let another tree grow. And another plus: you probably can't reuse rice hundreds of times. It will catch mold, once it has absorbed enough humidity. Even if it doesn't catch mold, once food moths discover that you keep rice in an openly access...

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    Rice is food. I was brought up to not use food for non-food purposes, at least not in large quantities.For most of the uses I described, I know first hand that they perform better than rice.Plus, about salt and sawdust. At least around where I live salt is abundant and cheap - we literally have a mountain of it, and that isn't even the biggest salt reserve around here. Sawdust is a byproduct, a problem most woodworking shops need to deal with, not a waste of resources perfectly usable in other ways. Sawdust is also renewable - all you have to do is let another tree grow. And another plus: you probably can't reuse rice hundreds of times. It will catch mold, once it has absorbed enough humidity. Even if it doesn't catch mold, once food moths discover that you keep rice in an openly accessible location, you'll spend years trying to get rid of them, unless you immediately throw that rice out.

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  • Concrete Countertops for the Kitchen - a Solid Surface on the Cheap

    You can also use some acid stain to give it more color.

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  • FlorinJ commented on bennelson's instructable Build Your Own Electric Car!1 year ago
    Build Your Own Electric Car!

    You could probably significantly enhance the autonomy by using lifepo4 batteries - they store more than 2.5 times as much energy as lead acid batteries, for the same weight, and their capacity decays a lot slower in time - ~1000 reloads for lead acid vs ~2500 for lifepo4. In the long run, this might save you some money - at the cost of an maybe five times higher up-front investment (for new batteries of both types, I don't know if you can get second hand lifepo4 batteries).

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  • The Single Most Effective Way to Get Rid of a Sunburn

    Not everybody is similarly sensitive to sunlight. I'm white as chalk, and my skin has only three states: 1) white, 2) fiery dark red and 3) peeling off, and it only takes about 45 minutes of sun at noon for me to go from 1 to 3.By comparison, my sister becomes chocolate dark in the summer without even staying too much out in the sun, and never ever experienced skin peeling from the sun. She can sleep a whole day in bright sun (she did, by mistake, as a child), and the only thing she gets from this is thirsty.We live in the same city, it's only that her skin is way better than mine at secreting melanin.

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  • FlorinJ commented on F4916's instructable How to Desalinate Seawater1 year ago
    How to Desalinate Seawater

    You can't always afford to make fire, in survival situations.

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  • FlorinJ commented on neilmendoza's instructable Fish Hammer Actuation Device1 year ago
    Fish Hammer Actuation Device

    Goldfish, additionally to the lateral line, also have an inner ear. They do not emit sound, but they seem to be able to build up a model of their environment based on what sounds they hear.You probably won't find any research answering specifically to the question of whether goldfish can locate objects using sound. Research is usually a lot more focused, since goldfish are the lab rat for fish hearing research, having a very high performance hearing system. Like for example this study - in layman's terms, it studies how well goldfish can tell from what direction a sound is coming, specifically using their inner ear, not the lateral line:https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/8520933This research goes even further, stating that goldfish specifically can process reverberations, reflections a...

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    Goldfish, additionally to the lateral line, also have an inner ear. They do not emit sound, but they seem to be able to build up a model of their environment based on what sounds they hear.You probably won't find any research answering specifically to the question of whether goldfish can locate objects using sound. Research is usually a lot more focused, since goldfish are the lab rat for fish hearing research, having a very high performance hearing system. Like for example this study - in layman's terms, it studies how well goldfish can tell from what direction a sound is coming, specifically using their inner ear, not the lateral line:https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/8520933This research goes even further, stating that goldfish specifically can process reverberations, reflections and temporal patterns to locate the source and nature of sound:https://link.springer.com/chapter/10.1007/978-1-46...A cylinder or a bowl tend to focalize external sound towards a single point in the interior, putting stress on the fish'es hearing. If the fish finds itself in such a focal point, his hearing sense will be stressed - the usual sound processing pattern he uses will get a kind of signal the fish is not capable of processing.Think of us and vision. If somebody puts up a set of mirrors so that you see his reflection in many directions at once, you won't be able to tell which image is the original. This can be stressful.At their origin, goldfish were common carps, living in ponds with water too murky for visually detecting predators or food at a long distance. Their vision and hearing were shaped by that environment. A species not able to detect predators at a distance wouldn't be as successful as the carp.

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  • FlorinJ commented on neilmendoza's instructable Fish Hammer Actuation Device1 year ago
    Fish Hammer Actuation Device

    Don't keep goldfish in bowls or cylinders. They use echolocation. When they're near the center of the bowl or the axis of a cylinder, they shout in their own ears.

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  • FlorinJ commented on aliceniraimathi19's instructable How to Make Skeleton Leaves1 year ago
    How to Make Skeleton Leaves

    Could you use these as stencils? Place on a flat surface, spray some paint on top, to get a leaf impression on the surface?

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  • FlorinJ commented on Mic100's instructable Make LadyBug Simple Cheap Vibrobot1 year ago
    Make LadyBug  Simple Cheap Vibrobot

    Nice! Now make it fly :-)

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  • FlorinJ commented on danthemakerman's instructable Letter Opener Made From Junk Mail1 year ago
    Letter Opener Made From Junk Mail

    The material itself would probably lend itself well to be machined into various items on a CNC router.

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  • FlorinJ commented on woodbywright's instructable How to Hand Cut Dovetails1 year ago
    How to Hand Cut Dovetails

    If someone has a problem with chisels, he can use a rasp. My point was more about not taking off too much material initially, since you can't put it back, not so much about the tools used.

    If someone has a problem with chisels, he can use a rasp. My point was more about not taking off too much material initially, since you can't put it back, not so much about the tools used, and, as an addition, specifically for beginners, about how to use the tools so they don't take off too much material.

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  • FlorinJ commented on woodbywright's instructable How to Hand Cut Dovetails1 year ago
    How to Hand Cut Dovetails

    I suppose most woodworkers know this, it's meant for people who are just learning: cut on the inside of the material to be removed, both when you chisel away at the bottom of the pins and when you saw the sides of the pins.What do I mean by this: each cut has a finite width - one that's large enough to create unsightly gaps, if the cut is done on the wrong side of a marking, and also affect the joint's strength.A cut should be done by placing the saw slightly towards the material to be removed, not centered on the marking, so that ideally you cut down along the edge of the marking, not right through the marking. You can always chisel away material after the cut is done, if the fit is too tight, but there's no way you can add material back, once you removed it.A chisel pushes in both dir...

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    I suppose most woodworkers know this, it's meant for people who are just learning: cut on the inside of the material to be removed, both when you chisel away at the bottom of the pins and when you saw the sides of the pins.What do I mean by this: each cut has a finite width - one that's large enough to create unsightly gaps, if the cut is done on the wrong side of a marking, and also affect the joint's strength.A cut should be done by placing the saw slightly towards the material to be removed, not centered on the marking, so that ideally you cut down along the edge of the marking, not right through the marking. You can always chisel away material after the cut is done, if the fit is too tight, but there's no way you can add material back, once you removed it.A chisel pushes in both directions, when being driven into solid material, therefore, upon the initial cut, don't place it right on the marking, place it a hairline's thickness away from the marking - once the thick material is removed, you can come back and nibble away at the remaining thin layer without much push forward, towards the marking, as you'd have if you drive it in while there'd still be solid material at the back of the chisel.

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  • FlorinJ commented on wold630's instructable Non-Toxic Adhesive Removal1 year ago
    Non-Toxic Adhesive Removal

    I described how I use paraffin candle oil in another comment. I suppose this should work on your poly-carbonate/acrylic plates too - to my knowledge, paraffin oil does not affect those materials. Given that they are dried over a long time, however, you might have to do some rubbing/waiting before the solvent penetrates the glue layer.

    What I use: paraffin candle oil. I always have some at home. How I do it: soak the label in water, and, once softened, scrape what comes off - the smooth, paint-covered surface of the label otherwise prevents the oil from reaching the glue. You don't have to do a very good job of removing the paper so far, you just have to end up with a porous paper surface, instead of the smooth, sealed one that the label initially had. Put a few drops of candle oil and rub it into the paper - that's why you wanted a porous surface, the oil would not easily reach the glue through the intact paper surface. The adhesive will dissolve and come off easily and completely, together with the remaining pieces of paper. Now wash with dish washing soap as you would any regular dish. The candle oil comes off like...

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    What I use: paraffin candle oil. I always have some at home. How I do it: soak the label in water, and, once softened, scrape what comes off - the smooth, paint-covered surface of the label otherwise prevents the oil from reaching the glue. You don't have to do a very good job of removing the paper so far, you just have to end up with a porous paper surface, instead of the smooth, sealed one that the label initially had. Put a few drops of candle oil and rub it into the paper - that's why you wanted a porous surface, the oil would not easily reach the glue through the intact paper surface. The adhesive will dissolve and come off easily and completely, together with the remaining pieces of paper. Now wash with dish washing soap as you would any regular dish. The candle oil comes off like any other grease, leaving absolutely no residue behind.

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  • FlorinJ commented on mikeasaurus's instructable Easy Waterproof Clothing1 year ago
    Easy Waterproof Clothing

    I have to make a backpack. Guess how I'll get the waterproof textile material for it ...

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  • FlorinJ commented on ChristinaTapp's instructable Fun with Wine Bottles1 year ago
    Fun with Wine Bottles

    How many cycles of hot/cold water did you need, approximately, for regular wine bottles?

    For peeling off the labels, I use a slightly different method. Often, the glue used for the labels does not soften in water, only the paper gets wet, so when you clean the bottles you are still left with some goo that won't easily come off. Therefore, I simply rub the paper until the waxed/water repellant surface tears off, then pour a tiny bit of lamp oil, and rub it in. The lamp oil is stinky but dissolves the glue. Then I can wash the greasy lamp oil off with alcohol or regular dish washing soap.

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