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  • Chignon-style Pumpkin Croissant

    About how cool should the baked croissants be before you start filling them?

    Thanks. I feared that filling them incompletely cooled might do something to the dough (like soaking it until it becomes mush, for example).

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  • How to Make an Oil Candle From a Tile or Rock

    You can build a tiny dam/wall from putty around the place where you need to drill the hole in the tile, and fill its inside with water. IME it provides better cooling than spraying. Since it only has to last for a minute or so, sawdust with glue or wheat dough are good enough for putty. If you have kids and they let you have it, take a piece of silly putty from them.

    Hammering on slate risks shattering it.

    You can leave it out without much loss. Ceramic won't burn anyway. It just looks nicer with that thing on.

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  • How to Build the Easiest Dining Room Chair Ever

    I'm not so sure. Chairs need to be very sturdy to last. People lean on two legs, jump up and let themselves fall on chairs, climb onto the seat with their feet, and all this puts significant stress on the joints.Pocket holes are notoriously weak, when not used for joints where they just need to pull the material together, rather than for withstanding bending, twisting or shearing. Wood expands differently along the grain (almost not at all) than across the grain (some wood - especially softwood - even 10%, depending on the variation of humidity). The seat being rigidly attached to the frame, without any wiggle place across the grain, is likely to get it moving after a few humid summers and dry winters.The traditional joining method for chair frames is mortise and tenon. That kind of joint…

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    I'm not so sure. Chairs need to be very sturdy to last. People lean on two legs, jump up and let themselves fall on chairs, climb onto the seat with their feet, and all this puts significant stress on the joints.Pocket holes are notoriously weak, when not used for joints where they just need to pull the material together, rather than for withstanding bending, twisting or shearing. Wood expands differently along the grain (almost not at all) than across the grain (some wood - especially softwood - even 10%, depending on the variation of humidity). The seat being rigidly attached to the frame, without any wiggle place across the grain, is likely to get it moving after a few humid summers and dry winters.The traditional joining method for chair frames is mortise and tenon. That kind of joint is more difficult to make, but a lot more rigid. To avoid the joints between the legs and the seat frame to become loose after many people will have tilted the chair backwards and leaned on the two back legs only for a long while, you can attach some steel cable connecting the the joints between the front legs and the stretchers and the joints between the back legs and the seat frame and tension them well. This should take care of the most stringent source of failure.

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  • Jet Propelled Radio Controlled Duck

    From the looks of it, it shouldn't be very complicated to replicate it in wood. If you then coat it in fiber glass cloth and epoxy, the way wooden boats are coated, it should do the job quite well. Since the load it has to carry is very low, the wood can be the thinnest marine plywood you can find.

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  • DIY Grill Hack: Build a Platform for Your Grill

    You can mix and pour concrete using a trowel and a bucket, without even boards to build a frame, if you really need to. I use both wood and concrete, and can tell from experience that for this particular application both are equally easy to do. Wood is faster and lighter, but not more durable, for this particular application, IMO.

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  • DIY Concrete Stepping Stones That Look Natural

    Without some reinforcement, there's a high risk of cracks. You don't need mesh or rebar, there are small pieces of bent steel wire available which you simply mix into the concrete before pouring.A masonry trowel, additional to the smoothing trowel you used, would have been useful - it works better than hands for spreading and moving concrete when pouring.But visually I like the result.

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  • FlorinJ commented on RobBest's instructable Cat Repellent
    Cat Repellent

    You don't need any kind of IC, not even a microcontroller, to build a variable frequency and amplitude oscillator. Two transistors are all that's needed, one for the actual oscillator and one for the amplification. (That's how I built a device to train myself in Morse, some 40 years ago.)Plus, generating a square signal is bound to generate harmonics, most of them of frequencies that cats can no longer hear. That's wasted energy. Transistor-based oscillators generate something much closer to a sinus - hence less energy spent outside the cat-audible spectrum.Combine that with a cheap photo cell and accumulator scavenged from a garden light and you have a device that will last as long as the charger and battery do and will be completely autonomous.

    I'd just let the dog roam the yard.

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  • Kiridashi Inspired Marking Knife

    A while back, I did something similar -quite similar, and for the same purpose - marking on wood (and, as it has turned out since then, also useful for leather).Mine is made of an old file, which I didn't soften at the beginning, since I don't have where to re-harden it. It took many hours of drudgery to get rid of the file texture on a belt sander :-)I sharpened it at both ends in different directions, so I can cut/scratch/mark both left and right-handed.

    I thought of a diamond-shaped tip too. But the more I thought about it, the more I felt that it's not the same thing - it'd be a completely changed geometry, when marking - you can no longer see that precisely where the tip is and you need to tilt the knife a lot if you want one edge to be perpendicular to the material. Hence the two sharpened ends. Plus, the different geometry also would make sharpening more difficult, IMO. This way, there's also higher certainty of the result if you drop it on your foot ... :-D

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  • FlorinJ commented on Woodbrew's instructable Homemade Drum Sander
    Homemade Drum Sander

    Did you verify the parallelism between the table and the drum? Doesn't the table tilt sideways, with the support used for changing the material thickness only placed in the center and different sandpapers placed on each half of the drum, i.e. pieces being pushed through sideways too?

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  • FlorinJ commented on Jadem52's instructable Pocket Sized Pottery Wheel
    Pocket Sized Pottery Wheel

    Where do you fire it? With DIY pottery, this is what I find to be the biggest problems. It's not easy to reach the temperatures required for firing clay.

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  • Super Easy Clear Adhesive Lamp Shade

    Provided you use LED bulbs - which most people in Europe do anyway, simply because it's cheaper in the long run - temperatures don't get high enough to ignite anything.

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  • Levitating Side Table Made From Old Cardboard Boxes

    Good quality fishing line does not stretch.

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  • You Can Use a Drill Bit for More Than Drilling Holes!

    Where do you get your wire? Regular wire is too soft/not springy, IME.

    Fasten an old drill bit into an electric drill, give it a sharp tip on a belt sander or a stationary grinder, while the electric drill is running - this will make it easy to keep its shape round and the tip centered. Turn a handle from some scrap wood, cut off a small piece of copper tube to use as a ferrule, dig a few deeper scratches into the base of the drill bit, with an angle grinder, fixate the drill into the handle with a few drops of epoxy, and you have a very sturdy, very cheap, very long lasting awl.Sharpen the tip of a thicker drill bit to a wider angle/a more blunt shape, also fastened into an electric drill, and you get a decent center punch.Only, while grinding a drill, take care to dip it into water frequently, to keep it cool. You risk softening it otherwise.

    Possibly the wire you find where you live is a different allow from what I can get where I live. I found that no matter how I treat it, it still stays soft. Possibly too little carbon and other alloy elements in it.

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  • PiNAS - the Raspberry Pi NAS

    You may want to get a small cheap third disc into the rack. I use a raspi for media center, and a SD card gets damaged after a couple of months of usage (last one I used lasted half a year or so). I don't think you can get it anymore, but there was a funny little PI disk from WD available for a while. (It was featured on the raspi blog: https://www.raspberrypi.org/blog/meet-314gb-pidrive/) Something like that disk is what I mean. Put the OS on such a disk, and the SD card will last much longer.

    I haven't looked into the particulars of the Pi 2 or 3 or 4. The problem with the first generation was that the same controller handled all IO, for both USB and ethernet. If that design was kept (which, again, I have no idea if it was or wasn't), an upgrade go a more recent generation probably won't help much.

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  • FlorinJ commented on Matlek's instructable Unclog Senseo Pod Holders
    Unclog Senseo Pod Holders

    I suppose it works even better if you add a few drops of vinegar to the water.

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  • How to Make a Realistic Faux Neon Sign - Super Bright!

    Didn't try this particular ible myself , and chances that I will are slim - not that much of a fan of neon signs. But I had somewhat of a similar problem recently - getting aquarium tube to stick to a surface of soft smooth plastic.What I did was to create holes/indentations in the surface into which the hot glue, once solidified, has a mechanical grip, and make a bridge over the tube. Event if the glue does not adhere to the surface itself, it creates sort of an anchor/brace that holds the tube in place.Given the nature of this project, I think it would be simpler to use particle board that has a melamine coating on the show side. Hot glue sticks to the rough surface of particle board extremely well.

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  • Simple Sheet Metal Brake: No Welding

    If you build it wider, use angle iron with wider sides. Otherwise the brake itself will bend.

    Put a drop of oil on the hacksaw blade, and repeatedly put a drop of oil onto drill bits, when drilling metal. It will make things a lot easier for you and save you some money on drill bits and hacksaw blades which wear too quickly.

    If you add a hinge in the middle, you break the width - can't stick wide stock into the brake anymore. Which defeats the purpose for making it wider.

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  • Drill Press Conversion to Brushless Setup

    Use lubricant/coolant when drilling metal. Without, you just burn through drill bits unnecessarily. Use low speed when drilling metal - the larger the hole, the lower the speed needs to be. Otherwise, most energy is spent on heating by friction, instead of cutting through the metal.

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  • How to Make  Pretzels in Four Easy Steps

    Call me any way you like, I don't mind. But I think the term you actually wanted to use was "pedantic". Snob means something else.I'm a programmer by trade, and in my line of business a misplaced dot or semicolon in code can mean days of searching for the source of a problem. That's probably why I'm more bent on precision of expression than most people.But I don't think it's any different with natural language either. Use "traditional" repeatedly for something that's not, and the term will loose its value. Use language in general without precision, and people will start no longer taking what you say seriously, because experience will have taught them you don't always mean what you say - not as an ill-intentioned lie, just out of lack of precision.

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  • Indonesian Bakso (Beef Surimi Meatballs)

    Lamb and mutton, at least, get their specific flavor/smell from the unsaturated fat that quickly starts to oxidize, after the animal is slaughtered, I was taught by a friend who's deeper into cooking than I am. The same friend told me you can in effect almost completely stop this process using rosemary - put the meat and some marinade rich in rosemary leafs in a sealed plastic bag for a few hours into the fridge, and the specific smell that many people don't like will have vanished. I usually harvest some leaves from my rosemary bush, let them become bone dry, then grind them with a coffee grinder and store them in an airtight jar.The jar keeps the flavor, the grind ensures a large contact surface between the spice and the meat, to transfer the substances which inhibit oxidation.

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  • How to Make Bavarian Pretzels in Four Easy Steps

    You'd need to switch to fresh yeast for that title to be right.Lye isn't that dangerous, if used at the low concentration required for Brezn (5%, iirc). Even if you get it all over your hands, you only get a rash, worst case, not a real burn.

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  • World's Simplest and Newest Trebuchet (Walking Arm Trebuchet)

    Don't fill the racquetball with water. The water will flow in all kinds of crazy patterns and consume from the ball's energy. Fill it with something solid, and make sure that either the ball is full or the solid is evenly spread inside the ball, so the center of mass and the center of pressure are approximately in the same spot. This should add several yards to how far the ball travels.Heated grease would be an option, I think. Lighter than water, so you can fill more of the empty volume, and if you fill it while it's hot, you can still use a syringe, but if you roll the ball on a cold surface for a while after filling, it should solidify as a layer of approximately uniform thickness inside the ball.

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  • FlorinJ commented on Natalina's instructable Build a Soundproof Wall
    Build a Soundproof Wall

    Foam is light. It will not properly keep noise out.Fiberglass is somewhat heavier, but still pretty light.Heavy rubber mat, or dry sand would work greatly.

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  • Spicy Chicken Wings, Baked and Gluten Free

    Makes no sense flavor-wise. Why would you use dried garlic and onion, from which mostly everything flavored is gone, instead of using them fresh? And why would you use a store-bought sauce when it's so easy to make your own, without added preservatives, color, flavor enhancers, thickeners and whatnot? Except for hot, all you can taste in most store-bought sauces is salt. Even the heat is nasty, odorless and tasteless, unlike that of fresh hot chili, which can have a wide range of flavors and go in all kinds of taste directions, from buttery to spicy to fruity.I usually don't either bake or deep fry chicken wings. I grill them on an open grill, on rather low heat - the smoke adds to the flavor. Before grilling, I don't coat them with anything starchy, I just rub them with a mix of sweet pa…

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    Makes no sense flavor-wise. Why would you use dried garlic and onion, from which mostly everything flavored is gone, instead of using them fresh? And why would you use a store-bought sauce when it's so easy to make your own, without added preservatives, color, flavor enhancers, thickeners and whatnot? Except for hot, all you can taste in most store-bought sauces is salt. Even the heat is nasty, odorless and tasteless, unlike that of fresh hot chili, which can have a wide range of flavors and go in all kinds of taste directions, from buttery to spicy to fruity.I usually don't either bake or deep fry chicken wings. I grill them on an open grill, on rather low heat - the smoke adds to the flavor. Before grilling, I don't coat them with anything starchy, I just rub them with a mix of sweet paprika, ground white pepper, some crushed garlic and thyme, and let them sit for at least a few hours in the fridge, in an airtight container. The sauce I make using a mix of dried hot chili flakes and sweet paprika, depending on how hot I want it/I can afford to serve to others, a tiny amount of crushed garlic, again, only if the other people at the table won't complain, a lot of chopped parsley, and olive oil just enough to make it bind. Most people will probably want some salt added to the sauce - I use very little salt when cooking. When I grill, I always add salt to the meat only at the end - a little salt, when not grilling the meat excessively, dehydrates it, enhancing flavor, but you can achieve a similar effect by grilling just a tiny little bit longer (a minute or so, not more, or the meat will loose its tenderness). Plus, on an open, lid-less grill, meat looses water much more efficiently than in a smoker or a closed grill. With salt on the meat from the beginning, there's a higher risk of over-grilling and making the meat chewy, IMO.

    :-DThere's probably a reason why I rarely eat out, since several years ago. When I do, I pick a place with excellent service and food, and usually not at all that cheap.I absolutely love garlic. To the extent that friends call me an addict. And hoppy beer - the kind where hops is added towards the end of the boiling, giving less bitterness and more flavor.Here's something you can whip up in no time, which garlic addicts will appreciate: steam a head of cauliflower until it's still a tiny little bit crunchy, mash it, mix it with a pinch of salt, 1-2-3-4 crushed garlic cloves (depending on the garlic tolerance of the eaters - for whatever reason, garlic's heat is heavily amplified by the mixture), and olive oil just enough to make it creamy. Someone (who was also half of a garlic addict) on…

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    :-DThere's probably a reason why I rarely eat out, since several years ago. When I do, I pick a place with excellent service and food, and usually not at all that cheap.I absolutely love garlic. To the extent that friends call me an addict. And hoppy beer - the kind where hops is added towards the end of the boiling, giving less bitterness and more flavor.Here's something you can whip up in no time, which garlic addicts will appreciate: steam a head of cauliflower until it's still a tiny little bit crunchy, mash it, mix it with a pinch of salt, 1-2-3-4 crushed garlic cloves (depending on the garlic tolerance of the eaters - for whatever reason, garlic's heat is heavily amplified by the mixture), and olive oil just enough to make it creamy. Someone (who was also half of a garlic addict) once said it's like chocolate: once you start eating it you can't stop.

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  • FlorinJ followed attosa
      • Double Rainbow Lollipops
      • Popcorn Kernel Jar Diversion Safe
      • French Macaron Ornaments
  • You need a foldable workbench and an angle grinder. The more so if you like to work with metal.Not that difficult to build either. Two collapsible sawhorses that can be locked into working position with screws, so they have good rigidity, with a working surface that also gets screwed in. When folded, you can store everything under the bed.

    Either wider sided angle iron or two or three pieces of angle iron of different width of the sides placed one into the other and screwed together. With three pieces screwed together with 1/4" screws every 2", placed at an offset of 1" on the sides, I think you'd get excellent rigidity. But it would be a lot of drilling and filing and screwing.

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  • It lays flat on the ground and doesn't have anything on top that should make it act like a 3D structure. It will behave like a foil - very tough foil, but still a foil, that will be eventually torn apart by the ground moving underneath with seasonal temperature changes.

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  • Personally, I would have gone for a system with several cameras and a battery of tear gas sprays.

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  • The bar gauge reminded me of another simple jig you could print: a tool to draw a center line on a slat of arbitrary width. Simply a piece with two protruding pins at the ends, which you can slide on the sides of the slat, one on each edge, and a hole to put a pencil in in the middle.If you place the tool on a slat, then rotate it so that the pins touch the edges, then move the it along the slat so that the pins stay in contact with the edges at all times, the trace left by the pencil will be right in the middle of the slat.

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  • FlorinJ commented on katel73's instructable DIY Concrete Necklace

    If you place something vibrating (like an orbital sander or, even better, a jigsaw) on the table next to the form into which you poured the concrete, and leave it on for maybe ten minutes or so after pouring, the vibrations will get the air bubbles out of the concrete, resulting in a smoother looking and also harder concrete. Also, you shouldn't add water until the concrete becomes runny. The chemical reactions inside the concrete won't consume all the water, if you add too much of it. The unconsumed water will dry out eventually, leaving microscopic holes behind, which make the concrete softer than it should be.The lower toughness, caused by either trapped air bubbles or too much water, is not so much of a problem for a necklace. But the resulting microscopic surface pores will accumulat…

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    If you place something vibrating (like an orbital sander or, even better, a jigsaw) on the table next to the form into which you poured the concrete, and leave it on for maybe ten minutes or so after pouring, the vibrations will get the air bubbles out of the concrete, resulting in a smoother looking and also harder concrete. Also, you shouldn't add water until the concrete becomes runny. The chemical reactions inside the concrete won't consume all the water, if you add too much of it. The unconsumed water will dry out eventually, leaving microscopic holes behind, which make the concrete softer than it should be.The lower toughness, caused by either trapped air bubbles or too much water, is not so much of a problem for a necklace. But the resulting microscopic surface pores will accumulate stain and grease, over time. Not nice, IMO.You can also mix pigment into the concrete, before pouring, if you want more colors than just grey. If you're after one particular color, it's best to search for and use white cement, instead of the regular grey one.If you have the patience, you can also polish and then buff concrete to a glass-like smoothness. You can also embed pieces of colored glass, when pouring, then polish and buff. This can create quite interesting patterns. Or you can try out acid staining, after polishing, followed by buffing and waxing, to give it a look much like jade or colored marble. Concrete is a much more versatile material than you'd believe by looking at the many dull, grey surfaces that you usually see.

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  • I apologize in advance. I don't want to put you down. I'm sure the mallet as it was built will last for years, and do its job perfectly. But others might read this ible too, and it might be useful to them to avoid a few things which I think were less than ideal in how you built this mallet.Usually, you cut the hole for the handle tapered, so that the head cannot slide off the handle at the end opposite to where you're holding the mallet, and don't glue the handle in. In time, both the handle contracts and the hole in the head expands, as the wood dries out and settles, and you can hammer the handle in some more. Which is also why you don't cut off the tip right away, but let at least half an inch or so stick out for at least a few months, maybe a year. Only then do you cut off the tip of …

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    I apologize in advance. I don't want to put you down. I'm sure the mallet as it was built will last for years, and do its job perfectly. But others might read this ible too, and it might be useful to them to avoid a few things which I think were less than ideal in how you built this mallet.Usually, you cut the hole for the handle tapered, so that the head cannot slide off the handle at the end opposite to where you're holding the mallet, and don't glue the handle in. In time, both the handle contracts and the hole in the head expands, as the wood dries out and settles, and you can hammer the handle in some more. Which is also why you don't cut off the tip right away, but let at least half an inch or so stick out for at least a few months, maybe a year. Only then do you cut off the tip of the handle.Glue is indeed stronger than wood, especially wood across the grain vs glue applied along the grain. Which means that once glued in, the handle will stay fixed to the head, even when the hole becomes bigger than the handle, potentially causing it to crack. Don't be scared if this happens - just drive a wedge in. This will fasten the handle into the head for good, glue or no glue. The settling and compressing that happens for a while after building the mallet is also why driving dowels through is not a very good idea. For the aspect alone, you could have used short plugs instead of dowels driven through the whole head.

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  • I watched that one too :-) You are right, there is a tiny bit more detail on painting there. I meant more of a generic painting tutorial. But I'll see what I can do starting from there.What kind of paint did you use? Any advice on brushes?

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  • Can you maybe write a tutorial about painting? I'm pretty sure I can do the cutting and gluing, but I was never good at drawing, and it's not just plain painting what you do - plain painting, like walls or furniture, that I can do.

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  • I have yet to see a tool, such as an electric router or a hand drill, working _inside_ the box :-D

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  • :-) Noting to thank for. Medic told me to loose weight (which I mostly did), so for a little while longer no baking for me. For the time being, I'll take any occasion to remember a tasty recipe - you know, like window shopping when you're out of money and don't have much else to do :-D

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  • A simple recipe I use: three parts flour, two parts butter, one part sugar (by weight), plus one whole egg for each 100g (that's about one large egg for every cup of flower), plus an additional egg yolk for each whole egg. For improved flavor, the seeds of half a vanilla pod can be added for each two cups of flour, plus some grated lemon zest. Spare the egg white of the egg yolk, you'll need it.Ideally, knead everything very fast, and start preparation with all ingredients freshly taken out of the fridge. Then, after kneading, put the dough back into the fridge for half an hour or so, before rolling.While in the initial phase of kneading, you might fear that all the dough will remain stuck on your hands. Just go ahead with the kneading, after a few minutes the dough becomes almost complet…

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    A simple recipe I use: three parts flour, two parts butter, one part sugar (by weight), plus one whole egg for each 100g (that's about one large egg for every cup of flower), plus an additional egg yolk for each whole egg. For improved flavor, the seeds of half a vanilla pod can be added for each two cups of flour, plus some grated lemon zest. Spare the egg white of the egg yolk, you'll need it.Ideally, knead everything very fast, and start preparation with all ingredients freshly taken out of the fridge. Then, after kneading, put the dough back into the fridge for half an hour or so, before rolling.While in the initial phase of kneading, you might fear that all the dough will remain stuck on your hands. Just go ahead with the kneading, after a few minutes the dough becomes almost completely non-sticky (except to the working surface - use a silicone mat or a well waxed wooden surface - beeswax-waxed, I mean; never used a granite or marble surface for kneading, can't tell how these behave). As soon as the dough no longer sticks to your hands, it's ready for refrigerating - it doesn't do it good to over-knead it, it will become somewhat sticky again during rolling if over-kneaded.300g flour (that's about 2 cups) plus the corresponding other ingredients will yield a crust of about the same size - 22 cm, which is slightly less than 9" (about 8 3/4").What's important: baking. Roll large enough disks, put them in the pie tin, make holes with a fork as depicted above - and then there's a difference. Cut a round piece of baking paper, as large as the pie crust without the margins, spread it on top of the un-backed crust, and put something heavy on it - I use pebbles, but dry beans are also usable. Bake it for 10 minutes or so, on medium heat, until it starts to color on the edges, take it out, lift the paper with the pebbles/beans and put it away. Use a brush to paint the whole surface thoroughly with the beaten (not foamy, just liquid) spared egg white, bake it a few more minutes, until the whole surface is lightly colored - not brown! Without the weight on top of the crust during the initial baking, the crust would swelll and become completely uneven, in spite of the fork holes - the butter melts during the initial baking, making the whole dough extremely soft, and as soon as it fluffs up just a bit the holes shut close, and the expanding air and released humidity between the dough and the bottom of the tin has nowhere to go. The egg white on the bottom somewhat helps with the crust not becoming soggy after the filling is added. A better help, however, is to use really-really heavy cream in the next step - one that's really fat, instead of being thickened with various thickening agents. (Don't worry about cholesterol, fat from milk is good cholesterol, and you won't eat a whole pie alone anyway.)Filling: very easy too. And completely eyeballed quantities. Some double or triple cream, mixed with the seeds of the other half of the vanilla pod you possibly added to the crust, one more egg and some sugar to taste (any kind of sugar - that's what to taste is supposed to mean), beaten up until there's no more sugar. I usually also add the meat of 1-2 passion fruits plus the juice of half a lemon, for flavor. Don't use a high speed mixer, do it by hand, or else you risk turning the cream into butter. Plus, you want the mixture to stay runny, not become foamy. Some really-really ripe fruit - halved apricots, seedless grapes, sliced apples, whatever - uniformly spread in a thin layer (but not very thin - 1/2" or somewhat more than 1 cm is quite OK) of the crust, the cream mixture spread on top until the fruit is almost submerged, looking like small islands, in case of grapes or halved apricots, then baked on medium heat until the cream curdles and turns slightly yellow.

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  • You'll never get a similarly even shape, with burning by hand after a printed contour.

    I'd place a piece of thicker sheet metal on top of the shapes before pounding, to make sure the shapes don't move away from where I place them, when pounded. But I like the idea - possibly will use it too.The wire sold where I live as rebar tie wire is IMO too thin for this. Luckily I have bought a coil of 12 gauge/2 mm wire in the past, for other uses, and still have plenty. That thickness is IMO more appropriate for shapes to be imprint in wood.Just in case you have tried it: how well does this work with hardwood?

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  • Base plate is a bit thick for my taste - takes a sizable portion of the cut depth away. Some thinner birch plywood would allow for pretty much the same rigidity for less thickness. 5/16" (~ 8mm) should be enough, I believe. The sled with the thinnest base plate I've built uses 1/4" (6 mm) birch plywood. Works like a charm.What I've found is that when you attach the front fence it's useful to first glue it in place, with great care to get a perfectly right angle to the blade, then, after the glue has dried, drill and screw. Makes it easier to get the right angle perfectly right.Another thing about the front fence: taper off the bottom edge that faces the blade before attaching it to the base plate. Sawdust will get stuck there, regardless of whether you taper it off or not. But i…

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    Base plate is a bit thick for my taste - takes a sizable portion of the cut depth away. Some thinner birch plywood would allow for pretty much the same rigidity for less thickness. 5/16" (~ 8mm) should be enough, I believe. The sled with the thinnest base plate I've built uses 1/4" (6 mm) birch plywood. Works like a charm.What I've found is that when you attach the front fence it's useful to first glue it in place, with great care to get a perfectly right angle to the blade, then, after the glue has dried, drill and screw. Makes it easier to get the right angle perfectly right.Another thing about the front fence: taper off the bottom edge that faces the blade before attaching it to the base plate. Sawdust will get stuck there, regardless of whether you taper it off or not. But if it's tapered, the sawdust will not cause the piece you're sawing to misalign with the front fence at the bottom, yielding a sloped bottom of the cut. (I hope this is understandable - don't know how to attach pictures here.)

    The sled has two fences, one behind the blade and one in front of the blade. Fence in front of the blade, bottom edge closest to the blade.I suppose you could add one after the fence is attached - scraping it into the wood, using a marking knife or something similar. Or a wood chisel with a slanted edge.

    I've found that a sled combined with extension tables sideways plus a larger outfeed table will let you cut larger pieces on a very small saw. Plus, on small, DIY/hobby saws, there's almost always something wrong with the miter gauge - it wiggles. Fences are also less than accurate on such saws. A sled greatly improves the precision of what you can do with small, hobby/DIY saws, IME.The one thing I don't like, on the saw used in this project, is the blade. You can put any sled you want, on that saw, I don't see how you can get a really clean, tearless, smooth cut.

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  • FlorinJ commented on dankly1's instructable Cheap DIY Front Panels

    You can also print the panel on paper, laminate the paper on one side (just put two sheets into the laminating foil, and cut the edges off afterwards - each sheet will be paper on one side and plastic on the other, after that), then glue it to perspex, cardboard, plywood or aluminum, and then cut out the holes. You can do the drawing in anything that lets you print with sub-mm precision - like inkscape, for example, which is also free software. Dia also has a lot of predefined shapes/stencils which you might find useful, and from which you can export svg, then import it in inkscape and do the precise sizing there.Less risk of damaging the printer. Also no concerns about the ethical use of proprietary software.

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  • By them, clean them up, make them shine, sell them on ebay and make a buck. There are plenty of places around the world where better quality DIY-grade tools are not at all easy to come by.

    I think even a scissor jack would work, if it had arms long enough. A tripod car jack ... Idunno. Could be a tiny bit shaky. I wouldn't like that in a vise stand.

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  • Don't use oil of any kind for making the mold easier to extract. Oil (or any other fat) reacts with the bases in the concrete and turns to soap, but in the process those bases no longer contribute to the reactions which make the concrete strong. What you'll get is crumbly concrete on the surfaces. Instead you could try some synthetic wax - animal waxes, such as beeswax or vegetable waxes, are not that inert.In order to be able to remove the mold easier you can also shape it from multiple pieces - one wedge-like/trapezoidal section in the middle of each surface, for example. True, that would most likely leave marks on each surface, after demolding, and that would need sanding, but on one hand with anything concrete if you want it polished you need to sand, on the other hand the seam traces…

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    Don't use oil of any kind for making the mold easier to extract. Oil (or any other fat) reacts with the bases in the concrete and turns to soap, but in the process those bases no longer contribute to the reactions which make the concrete strong. What you'll get is crumbly concrete on the surfaces. Instead you could try some synthetic wax - animal waxes, such as beeswax or vegetable waxes, are not that inert.In order to be able to remove the mold easier you can also shape it from multiple pieces - one wedge-like/trapezoidal section in the middle of each surface, for example. True, that would most likely leave marks on each surface, after demolding, and that would need sanding, but on one hand with anything concrete if you want it polished you need to sand, on the other hand the seam traces left in the middle of each surface should be easy to sand mechanically, nothing like a scratch.

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  • FlorinJ commented on a mateen's instructable Razor Saw

    Not really. What this saw comes closest, in shape, is a Japanese dozuki, which always has a back spine, since it's one of the thinner Japanese saws, intended for very precise cuts. At just slightly over 0.3 mm thickness, the blade also isn't that far away from that of a Japanese dozuki, so the back spine is absolutely necessary. The kataba, which is the japanese saw of sometimes comparable shape that has no back spine, is about twice as thick.Japanese saws don't _always_ work better than Western type saws. In particular, they don't work that well on tough hardwoods like oak or hornbeam or even birch - those woods need harder and heavier tools and more force applied when cutting than pine or paulownia or other softer woods - unlike Europeans, Japanese carpenters use mostly softwoods, tradi…

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    Not really. What this saw comes closest, in shape, is a Japanese dozuki, which always has a back spine, since it's one of the thinner Japanese saws, intended for very precise cuts. At just slightly over 0.3 mm thickness, the blade also isn't that far away from that of a Japanese dozuki, so the back spine is absolutely necessary. The kataba, which is the japanese saw of sometimes comparable shape that has no back spine, is about twice as thick.Japanese saws don't _always_ work better than Western type saws. In particular, they don't work that well on tough hardwoods like oak or hornbeam or even birch - those woods need harder and heavier tools and more force applied when cutting than pine or paulownia or other softer woods - unlike Europeans, Japanese carpenters use mostly softwoods, traditionally, and the human body cannot apply as much force on the pull as it can on the push. You need maybe four times longer to cut through a piece of hardwood with a ryoba compared to a typical European style foxtail crosscut saw. In hardwoods, even if the kerf is wider, properly sharpened European style saws leave a cut as clean and as smooth as any Japanese saw leaves in softwood.

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  • Book matching, in my understanding, is slicing a piece of timber of rectangular section into boards, then arranging the resulting boards by sliding one down without any flipping, then flipping the next one around an axis along the length of the board, then sliding one down again without flipping it, and so on. Every second board will have its growth rings curvature in opposite directions, due to being flipped. If the boards cup, alternating boards will cup in opposite directions.Slip and turn - flipping every second board around an axis along the board's width - does achieve the same alternating orientation of the curvature of the growth rings, but it looses the alignment of the grain. At least for very long panels, I'm pretty sure the different radius of curvature of the growth rings at …

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    Book matching, in my understanding, is slicing a piece of timber of rectangular section into boards, then arranging the resulting boards by sliding one down without any flipping, then flipping the next one around an axis along the length of the board, then sliding one down again without flipping it, and so on. Every second board will have its growth rings curvature in opposite directions, due to being flipped. If the boards cup, alternating boards will cup in opposite directions.Slip and turn - flipping every second board around an axis along the board's width - does achieve the same alternating orientation of the curvature of the growth rings, but it looses the alignment of the grain. At least for very long panels, I'm pretty sure the different radius of curvature of the growth rings at different positions along the stem will have a detrimental effect on the panel's stability.The matching pattern that does bring adjacent boards' curvature of the growth rings in the same direction is book and turn matching - the same way as book matching, but then, after having arranged the boards, you flip every second board around its width, same as for slip and turn. I have no idea why someone would choose that one, except for some specific visual effect.

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  • Initially, I thought that might be, since I'm not a native English speaker and not all that familiar with carpentry terms in English. But then I looked up the various matching patterns here, and I do mean book matching. Deformations of adjacent boards may also compensate when using slip and turn matching, but you loose the nicer pattern.Plus, I'm not so sure. My thinking: regions of the wood situated close to one another in the original trunk tend to curb with similar amplitude, whereas regions of the wood situated at a larger distance may want to curb differently. Unless your boards are very short, slip and turn puts together parts of the wood that were far away from each other in the original trunk.

    "book matching (...) serves no real structural benefit" - that's not right. It _does_ serve a benefit when you do panels.Usually, for panels, you don't slice boards, you slice a thicker, rectangular piece of wood, and assemble the boards so that edges there were adjacent before cutting are also adjacent after gluing. This avoids strong visual breaks in color and texture, and makes it less apparent that the panel was made from multiple pieces of wood, but also has an important structural benefit: panels glued this way are less likely to cup, twist or bend.The reason for lower appetite to deformation is the resulting layout of the fiber. Boards adjacent to each other before cutting have a tendency to deform in the same direction. By placing them alternatively face up then face dow…

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    "book matching (...) serves no real structural benefit" - that's not right. It _does_ serve a benefit when you do panels.Usually, for panels, you don't slice boards, you slice a thicker, rectangular piece of wood, and assemble the boards so that edges there were adjacent before cutting are also adjacent after gluing. This avoids strong visual breaks in color and texture, and makes it less apparent that the panel was made from multiple pieces of wood, but also has an important structural benefit: panels glued this way are less likely to cup, twist or bend.The reason for lower appetite to deformation is the resulting layout of the fiber. Boards adjacent to each other before cutting have a tendency to deform in the same direction. By placing them alternatively face up then face down, as they are sliced away from the thicker log, strains and stresses from one board will mostly cancel out strains and stresses from the adjacent boards, making for a more stable panel than if boards were combined randomly.

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  • Great jig, I built one too. Allows cutting disks of highly repeatable diameter, as long as you don't change the settings until you have finished cutting all disks.But be careful when using it. Upon each cut, until you get close to a circle shape, there's a significant risk of the material catching the blade. There's no parallel stop or sled fence to keep the material aligned, so it can easily rotate. Ideally, use a quick release clamp down clamp to fixate the material in place before each cut. Once you get to the point of shaving just a few millimeters away on each cut, the risk of catch is small, and you can hold down the workpiece with your hand only.Alternatively, you can rough cut the circle shape with a jigsaw, then there's not much material left to shave off with the miter or table …

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    Great jig, I built one too. Allows cutting disks of highly repeatable diameter, as long as you don't change the settings until you have finished cutting all disks.But be careful when using it. Upon each cut, until you get close to a circle shape, there's a significant risk of the material catching the blade. There's no parallel stop or sled fence to keep the material aligned, so it can easily rotate. Ideally, use a quick release clamp down clamp to fixate the material in place before each cut. Once you get to the point of shaving just a few millimeters away on each cut, the risk of catch is small, and you can hold down the workpiece with your hand only.Alternatively, you can rough cut the circle shape with a jigsaw, then there's not much material left to shave off with the miter or table saw anymore from the get go. Makes the whole process faster too.

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  • I'm using one of these: https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30400370/. There's many places where I occasionally need good lighting, and this one can be moved around.

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  • A very fine grained material (around a few microns down to fractions of microns, that's in the range of 25000 grit), readily available, is cigarette ash. It consists mainly of metallic oxides, which makes it quite hard and abrasive. Wet cigarette ash rubbed on with a soft fine cloth makes for an excellent polish.

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