Jfieldcap

Thanks for the tip. You may want to reply to the instructable itself, and post your comment as a "tip."

Of course. As with the fire issue, not a big deal for a DIY project. If this was to be commercially made, the heatsink size, LED wattage, power supply ratings, and etc. would be mathed to pieces before a design was produced in more than prototype quanitities.

Look great. I think the 100W capable heatsink is waaay overkill--the LED itself is rated for 100W, and to get 100W of heat it'd have to be running at 0% efficiency and full power. You could probably get away with a much smaller heatsink, though it certainly looks cool this way.As for fire safety; If this was a commercial product, it'd probably be a bad idea to encase it in wood. Someone would buy it, run it on weird power (causing the fan to stop working) and then they'd drape it in wool sweaters and leave it on for several months in some attic somewhere - and it'd overheat and burn the house down. For a DIY project, it should be fine - most of the people doing these sorts of things are aware of potential risks - though for your legal safety, you probably want to stick a disclaimer in y...

Look great. I think the 100W capable heatsink is waaay overkill--the LED itself is rated for 100W, and to get 100W of heat it'd have to be running at 0% efficiency and full power. You could probably get away with a much smaller heatsink, though it certainly looks cool this way.As for fire safety; If this was a commercial product, it'd probably be a bad idea to encase it in wood. Someone would buy it, run it on weird power (causing the fan to stop working) and then they'd drape it in wool sweaters and leave it on for several months in some attic somewhere - and it'd overheat and burn the house down. For a DIY project, it should be fine - most of the people doing these sorts of things are aware of potential risks - though for your legal safety, you probably want to stick a disclaimer in your instructable somewhere...

Great looking and simple! I wonder if you could achieve an all-around floating look by using a small, heavy base directly in the middle, and lowering the distance between the bottom of the lamp and the table. You'd need to make some thin supports (ideally ones that will diffuse the light so that they don't cast shadows - that'd ruin the effect) to hold the shade up.

Good to know! I don't have any more computers that use floppy disks, but perhaps the info you've posted will be useful for others. Maybe this is why I had so many headaches with floppy reliability back when I was playing around with the old laptops!

Awesome project! If you're able, posting pictures of what things look like through the 'scope would give random untelescopy people like me some cool results to look at...

Lovely! Those will do ;-)

Hah, ok. It worked great for me on all the computers I tried it on. Hopefully it's working for you!

Glad it was helpful! Have fun with those old keyboards; anything with a floppy drive as the main storage has got to be interesting...

Haha, there you go

Definitely. Just get yourself a AC-DC wall "wart" plug in that supplies the required V (voltage) and A (amperage) - To be safe, I'd go a little above the required amperage to ensure the power brick doesn't get hot.

Cool! Shipping is normally that long to here too, but I don't mind... XD Yeah, let me know!

No problem! While working with the ESP32 for the first time I realized what an "ultimate sensor" the internet was. Lots of possibilities! The ESPs are actually Arduino Compatible- But there is a little bit of a learning curve, espesially with uploading programs. Definitely worth the trouble, though!It's also good to focus on functions without the internet, though. So much is so dependant on it nowdays that one wonders what would happen if it went down... And a device that works without an internet connection is always nice!

Haha, only if you want- I didn't intend to be pushy! I just thought it'd be a great fit for the project. My favorite place to get cheap electronics is from AliExpress, if they ship to your area of Mexico.

May I suggest an ESP32 or ESP8266 for anyone who wants to make this? Arduino compatible, with WIFI (and Bluetooth on the ESP32) built in. They're way faster than even the Mega and there's lots of documentation online. They're also way smaller, and cost about $6 each. I think I'd use the ESP32 since it has both WIFI and bluetooth, and has more analog inputs than the 8266 (which has only one). Just a few ideas I wanted to toss out!

Indeed!

Yup! I wanna name mine "Cheese Louis" (pronounced like Lewis), then see if I can wrangle a YouTube collab with her someday in the future XD I watched Simone's first video about Cheese Louise a few months before I saw this car XD

Love the asthetic. Would be awesome to see a version that walks someday! (Maybe I'll have to try it...)

When I first saw the project, I thought the binder clip was just clipped over the end of the popsicle stick. Now I'm wondering if you could eliminate the prep work by doing that? The only problems I see are that the binder clip may not be conductive through the paint. However, it looks like you thread the copper wire through the same hole the other clip was in, and it works- So maybe conductivity isn't an issue.Just thinking about adapting this for a kid's maker activity: I buy stuff on AliExpress, and you can find colourful popsicle sticks, colourful binder clips (some with emojis!), and of course plenty of colourful LEDS. It might make it just that much more fun for kids!

Same! I wanna see an open source split flap module (ideally a single digit that's expandable) and easily made with access to a 3D printer (or laser cutter, I guess). Maybe I'll have to design one someday...

Great 'ible with good info! Working on building a new charging system/battery packs for an ancient electric car, and very new to batteries in general, so I was glad to find this!

Thanks for the tip! That does indeed seem like a better way to do it. It's been a few years since I did this, and I've hopefully learned a bit more since then... (I remember seeing this comment earlier, but don't remember if I replied- So forgive either my late reply or double-reply! XD)

Looks great! Thanks for the idea for where to put the last sticker... (I got three)

Thanks! Then I'd have to figure out where to put it...

Awesome. Look absolutely hilarious!

Thanks!

Looks awesome!

Excellent! (Ok, I just watched the video and skimmed the instructable, but from what I did see, awesome work!) I just love it when people combine technology and nature to create art! Lovely video work too, I aspire to be that good someday. Best of luck as a finalist in the microcontroller contest!

Thank you! It always gives a person a warm fuzzy feeling to help others.

Nice! I love how these old alarms look but do hate that awful alarm noise- I once found a pretty cool looking mechanical one in the thrift store, decided against getting it, and have been kicking myself ever since...

Thanks for your concern about the food safety!I do have to disagree on some points. Taken from Wikipedia: "Thanks to its bio-compatibility and biodegradability, PLA has also found ample interest as a polymeric scaffold for drug delivery purposes." My research on other sites also indicated that PLA is generally considered food safe, though most filaments don't have FDA food safe ratings. If one wanted, there are PLA filaments with FDA food safe ratings available, for a little more than normal PLA, but we were rushed for time and decided that based on our research, normal PLA was fine.It is true that ABS is not food safe. However, we don't use nor recommend the use of ABS in any part of this design.As for TPU: I'll admit I didn't research this before the project- However, from a...

Thanks for your concern about the food safety!I do have to disagree on some points. Taken from Wikipedia: "Thanks to its bio-compatibility and biodegradability, PLA has also found ample interest as a polymeric scaffold for drug delivery purposes." My research on other sites also indicated that PLA is generally considered food safe, though most filaments don't have FDA food safe ratings. If one wanted, there are PLA filaments with FDA food safe ratings available, for a little more than normal PLA, but we were rushed for time and decided that based on our research, normal PLA was fine.It is true that ABS is not food safe. However, we don't use nor recommend the use of ABS in any part of this design.As for TPU: I'll admit I didn't research this before the project- However, from a bit of research right now, it looks like TPU is also generally considered safe. In it's use as the adapter for the tubing, it should never come in contact with the mouth, and it's highly unlikely that any particles of TPU would make their way into the user's mouth. It could also be eliminated from the design with a different sized tubing and a minor change to the mouthpiece, if someone wanted.As for any concerns about bacteria growing in the crevices- We recommend you run the mouthpiece through a dishwasher at least once a week, or sterilize it in boiling water, as stated in the Instructable and user manual. The PLA has been tempered, which makes it able to withstand high temperatures (And we did test this). The mouthpiece also has a built-in chamber to trap saliva and keep it from entering the silicon tubing.I assure you, we thought about food safety and toxicity and designed our device with that as a major factor. It is open source, so if you'd like to make it safer, by all means, please do!

Thanks!

Thanks! It was a pretty fun project, and hopefully others can benefit now too!

That would work as well, there's a Gamer who uses a device called a Quadstick that has this sort of function. For what we're doing, the varied intensity (Hard Sip, soft sip, soft puff, hard puff) is still easy enough to do (Though believe me, trying to get it to work without triggering soft sips/puffs on the rising edge of a hard sip/puff was pretty annoying!) If you wanted to add more actions or hotkeys/keyboard shortcuts though, that would be a great addition, and not hard at all to make!Thanks for the comment!

I don't have a 3D printer, so I can't recommend one, but I've used some, and have some information that may be useful to you.First of all, 3D printers are very easy to use. I haven't much experience with CNC, but I think anyone could use a 3D printer, so no worries there. Usually the process is to design a model using a CAD program, export it, "slice" it (cuts it into individual 2D layers for the print head to follow), then take the G-Code from the slicer program and tell the printer to print it. There are two main kinds of consumer printers, FFF (Fused filament fabrication) printers (Imagine a fine-tipped hot glue gun on a CNC machine, capable of printing in several different kinds of materials), and SLA (Stereolithography), which uses UV light to cure a resin. FFF is the mos...

I don't have a 3D printer, so I can't recommend one, but I've used some, and have some information that may be useful to you.First of all, 3D printers are very easy to use. I haven't much experience with CNC, but I think anyone could use a 3D printer, so no worries there. Usually the process is to design a model using a CAD program, export it, "slice" it (cuts it into individual 2D layers for the print head to follow), then take the G-Code from the slicer program and tell the printer to print it. There are two main kinds of consumer printers, FFF (Fused filament fabrication) printers (Imagine a fine-tipped hot glue gun on a CNC machine, capable of printing in several different kinds of materials), and SLA (Stereolithography), which uses UV light to cure a resin. FFF is the most common technology used, and should suit your needs just fine.Now onto your second question: If you haven't heard of lost PLA casting, it works pretty similar to what you're talking about. PLA is probably the most commonly used material in consumer FFF 3D printers. For best results, you might need to burn the PLA out first, but I'll bet someone's made a different material that works better for the technique you're talking about.Hope this clears some things up!

Thanks! Glad you liked it!

This is so cool! Makes me almost want to grow my hair out just so I can have it move around and help me do stuff XDVery awesome project!

This is cool! I wonder how many of these we'd need to keep mosquitoes out of our yard... Every summer we've got them all over at dusk, and though they wouldn't be carrying any diseases here, it's annoying to put up with them and their itchy bites. I suppose with larger emitters (such as the kind used in ultrasonic sensors) and higher voltages, it'd be more effective.On the topic of testing it, I wonder how hard it would be to create a controlled environment with mosquitoes living inside (IE, find a water source that's already breeding them, enclose it), then create two distinct portions, one with an ultrasonic sensor. You'd need some way to tell roughly how many are in each room, or at least tell when the density of mosquitoes increases/decreases. Then, you could wait for a significant ...

This is cool! I wonder how many of these we'd need to keep mosquitoes out of our yard... Every summer we've got them all over at dusk, and though they wouldn't be carrying any diseases here, it's annoying to put up with them and their itchy bites. I suppose with larger emitters (such as the kind used in ultrasonic sensors) and higher voltages, it'd be more effective.On the topic of testing it, I wonder how hard it would be to create a controlled environment with mosquitoes living inside (IE, find a water source that's already breeding them, enclose it), then create two distinct portions, one with an ultrasonic sensor. You'd need some way to tell roughly how many are in each room, or at least tell when the density of mosquitoes increases/decreases. Then, you could wait for a significant amount of them to breed, then turn the ultrasonic emitter on, and observe if there is a difference in the number of mosquitoes in the portion exposed to ultrasound. It still wouldn't be entirely scientific, but maybe you'd get more definite results.

I suppose you could use an ESP8266 module instead of the teensy, as it has similar specs ram/rom/speed wise, and is a lot cheaper- Plus, built in Wifi for connectivity, that way you could even make it into a smartwatch of types... I think power consumption is about the same as a teensy as well.

You're welcome! Tell me how it goes!Those look great, I'll add them to the 'ible.Best of luck!

That would work well- I suppose people could just buy 18650 cells too, since they're not expensive.

That's true- I've been toying with the idea of an RGB LED, or/and a piezo buzzer, plus a few other minor improvements. Actually, I'll just upload the Fritzing file to the GitHub, so you can do it if you want.Next time I redesign the board, I'll probably add those, plus breakouts for all the Arduino pins, to make it easier to add your own sensors/modules. When I get time, that is... It is on my to-do list!

Yeah, I'd rather use something other than a 9V too- Eventually want to use 2xAA batteries with a boost converter- Not much more efficient, but a lot cheaper XDBy all means do! Let me know if I can help at all in any way!

Hi, sorry it has been a while, instructables doesn't always email me when people comment!It would definitely be possible, with a little extra coding. In my library, I use PORTD, which is why it uses the D0 and D1 pins (Believe me, that was a headache to troubleshoot when I was trying to figure it out!)If you wanted, you could just use digitalWrite statements for each pin, but that would be less efficient (Though, the libary wastes a lot of time with the delays anyways)Or, I'll bet you could shift the bits over two spots, write the new value to the port without modifying the bits on D0 and D1- Since the SPO256 only needs 6 pins, not the 8 total on port D. I can't recall exactly off the top of my head, but if you look at the bitshift operators and others on the Arduino reference page, yo...

Hi, sorry it has been a while, instructables doesn't always email me when people comment!It would definitely be possible, with a little extra coding. In my library, I use PORTD, which is why it uses the D0 and D1 pins (Believe me, that was a headache to troubleshoot when I was trying to figure it out!)If you wanted, you could just use digitalWrite statements for each pin, but that would be less efficient (Though, the libary wastes a lot of time with the delays anyways)Or, I'll bet you could shift the bits over two spots, write the new value to the port without modifying the bits on D0 and D1- Since the SPO256 only needs 6 pins, not the 8 total on port D. I can't recall exactly off the top of my head, but if you look at the bitshift operators and others on the Arduino reference page, you should be able to figure it out. I did a lot of bitshifting and modifying partial registers without modifying the other bits in my SAA1099 project, and those were invaluable.I've been thinking for a while that I should update the library so as not to use up time while waiting for the delays, and to add some features and such. This is another good addition that I may add, when I get the free time... xDHope this helps! Let me know how it goes!

It's here, in case you haven't seen it (I haven't gotten the programming instructable done yet, but this one has all the building and soldering)https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Build-the-ProtoBot-a-100-Open-Source-Super-/

Yup! A little more expensive, but still pretty awesome for the tiny package/price! They can be found for about $9 with the encoders on eBay.

Thanks!

No problem, my pleasure! Thank you!

Thanks! I certainly plan to.

Perfect! XD

It looks super cool, but we need a video! ;)

This has to be one of the nicest minecraft-inspired projects I've seen- I like minecraft myself, but often it seems that the (mine)crafts people do are just... Not great XD This was not so! Well done!

I see no reason it couldn't be, s the Pro Mini is the same chip as the Uno, just in a different form.

Somehow I missed this comment, but yeah- It was 6$ at a thrift store a few years back. The bottom screen didn't work though, so that might explain why.

Just a note: You mixed up the names for the Arduino Nano and Micro in your parts picture tags.

Np! Thanks for commenting!