Mr-Mash

I never had any dimensions for the frame it was never going to be comfortable or efficient so I never bothered about getting it 'just right' it was all done by what looked good in proportion to the wheels, the only measurements you really need to worry about is how far the pedals and handle bars are from the seat.

That thing looks super cool, I really like the square tubing I'll have to remember that if I build another.

You've basically describe what I was thinking for my next project, but you missed out the electric motor...

They do have a fair bit of resistance but the wheels also carry a lot of momentum so once its over 5~6 MPH its not too bad. A bit of a weave combined with the weight of my belly and it leans into corners OK. and yeah I never intended for it to be practical it's only for fun.

Here in the UK the laws for electric bikes say that the motor can't be over 200 watts so anything bigger would have to be registered as a motorcycle and because I've built the frame myself it would be a pain getting it done.For me it's quite difficult to replace a tyre but I could take the wheel to a garage and they could have it done in minuets.

When I started the bike I'd only practiced welding for a couple of hours.

They are both about 71 cm ~ 28 inch long and the horizontal part of the down tube is 28 cm ~ 11 inch

You can use any size you want but I would suggest not going smaller than a BMX size wheel, and the frame was made to fit me that's why I didn't include any measurements.That being said... The wheels are 205/55 - 16Seat height is 78.5 cm ~ 31 inchSeat clamp to the head tube is 84 cm ~ 33 inchBottom bracket is 47 cm ~ 18.5 inch forward and 43 cm ~ 17 inch lower than the seat clampWheel base 134.5 ~ 53 inchOverall length 185.5 ~ 73 inch

They're not very common here in the UK but I have been looking.In total it didn't take all that many hours to build it was just spread out over a couple of months, certainly less time than it takes to grow a beard.

Thanks!It was never designed to be practical, but it's not overly impractical. There isn't much space but the Sturmey hub only about 5 MM, it was supposed to be closer to the pedals but the back of my foot kept hitting it.

I've added a video to step 7, I will update the 'ibble with a better one as soon as I can.

I should have said in the 'ibble but all the paint work was done with rattle cans.You can get a decent finish with them you just need to be careful.

Hey people, Thanks for all the kind words, I never expected this kind of reaction for it. To answer a few questions that keep coming up... The gearing is now low enough to get going from a standing start and it isn't anymore work than riding a bike with soft tyres. It corners much better than I ever thought it would, you need to put your weight into it but once it's on the edge of the tyre it can turn very tight.When you're on the flat part of the tyre it wants to follow the camber of the road, so you need to keep an eye on whats coming up to counteract it, otherwise it rides just fine.I need to find some scales and check but I guess it weighs somewhere around 35 kg.Again thank you all for the kind words.Ash.

I did consider adding a sleeve over the the weld in the axles but there isn't much stress on them in the centre, most of it is a compression force from taking the play out of the bearings. The weight of the bike is goes about 40 mm along the axle, through the bearings and into the hub body. I will strip them down at some point to check but they're still straight and the bearings haven't come loose.I didn't even think about a fire on the inside, I'll be more careful next time, Thanks for the warning.

Depends how many hills you need to go up!It rides better than I expected, the gearing is low enough so it's not to much hard work and it turns quite tightly once you're on the edge of the tyre.

Thank you!Here's a video of the first test ride. https://youtu.be/FMNzfC1psSI

Thank you!