Hi - I removed the winch from the inside to make space for the battery, and I added some flat plates to the central frame to make it a little stronger. See the photos in step 6 for details.
Thanks Matti! I know I used to build lego helicopters as a kid with all the lego technic gears to make the tail rotor and main rotor turn. Of course I motorised it but it didn't fly. It's amazing how the multi-rotor technology has reduced in size and price over the years to make projects like this possible!
Thanks for the kind words! I've been a long time reader of instructables and I knew what kind of detail I'd like to see if I were reading these instructions!I'm looking forward to seeing pictures of others that have had a go at building one.
That's a great experiment! I'm really glad you posted the videos to show how it flies with the different configurations. I've never seen a 5-rotor before, and from your experiments I can see there's a number of challenges to overcome. Great fun though and nice modular chassis allowing for quick changes!Oh and well done on flying this line of sight - it must take quite some concentration to work out the orientation! I have a small hexa (RotoX Raiju) and with all props the same colour it can be hard work to fly around line of sight!
Brilliant!To give you some insight - I built a count time timer for a water rocket laucher for a recent school summer camping event. The rockets were timetabled to launch at 7pm, so I coded it & setup the RTC so that whenever I turned on the countdown device it would give me a countdown to 7pm :)It also has a few switches and a big red button for other modes: - count down to launch or current time - or, 10/5 second count down modeThe RTC was essential for this project! Maybe I'll write it up as an instructable some time. At heart it's an Arduino Nano and LED matrix panel with integrated HT1632 display drivers.
Nice project! You could also consider adding a real-time clock module so that it always knows the time, and importantly how long is left, if you were to power it off and on again. This link might be useful, https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/MisterBotBreak/how-to-use-a-real-time-clock-module-ds3231-bc90fe these modules are available quite cheaply on ebay.
If you look carefully, I have one fixed 10k resistor, and the other is a variable resistor. This allows me to adjust the variable resistor so that the input signal to the Arduino is at 3v3 levels.
Vbat on the taranis will depend on what battery you put in. I have a 2 cell (2s) LiPo which is 7.4V, so well under 12V. The heat from the LMS is not noticeable as the current draw from the NRF transmitter isn't that high.
Don’t worry, the Yosemite picture is my wallpaper in the dining room :)
Hi JasbatDrummer - I just weighted it and it came in at 314 grams without a battery. It may be possible to make it lighter by removing a few pieces of the lego. I added quite a few pieces to the central frame for strength instead of using glue. By glueing instead you could save some weight. The motors & props are relatively heavy compared to the smaller sub 250 gram quadcopters.You could of course fly it indoors though!In terms of repairs, I've not crashed it yet but I'd expect that mostly the lego would come apart and could be put back together again. Worst case, a bad crash might pull apart the soldered connections.
It certainly should! Almost any TX / RX combination can work if you have at least 8 channels, and the receiver has a serial output like SBUS to feed into the flight controller. If you're on a budget you could also look at second hand FrSky taranis transmitters, they're very popular in the FPV (first person view) flying community and there's lots of how-to videos on the web.I don't own a Jumper but I've read good reviews, they're supposed to be good value for money. The T8SG lite looks like it only has 2 switches however. You could use one to Arm/disarm, and the other for flight modes (horizon vs angle). I'd recommend going for the next model up, the Jumper T12, as it's not that much more expensive but does give you more control switches which is more future proof if you fly more complex...
It certainly should! Almost any TX / RX combination can work if you have at least 8 channels, and the receiver has a serial output like SBUS to feed into the flight controller. If you're on a budget you could also look at second hand FrSky taranis transmitters, they're very popular in the FPV (first person view) flying community and there's lots of how-to videos on the web.I don't own a Jumper but I've read good reviews, they're supposed to be good value for money. The T8SG lite looks like it only has 2 switches however. You could use one to Arm/disarm, and the other for flight modes (horizon vs angle). I'd recommend going for the next model up, the Jumper T12, as it's not that much more expensive but does give you more control switches which is more future proof if you fly more complex models in the future. Just make sure you have a receiver that's compatible with the transmitter. Given that the Jumper is multi-protocol you could use a FrSky receiver. I used a FrSky XSR as they are small enough to fit in the rear of this lego quad.
Thank you for the kind words! It surprised me how long it took to pull this all together but the result is awesome.
Yes, definitely an inspiration for me, those guys have lots of crazy creations! I think I've improved on their build with less glue ;)
Me too! As shown by the smile on my face when it flew perfectly first time! Thanks for your comment ;)
Flying Lego QuadcopterView Instructable »
3D Printing Class
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NRF24 jr module for toy quadcopters
Awesome little project, I can now fly my E010 Quad from my Taranis Plus :)To save components I managed to find an 'upgraded' Arduino pro-mini with built in 800mAh 3v3 regulator (LMS1117 3.3) which runs at 8MHz. I can then power the nrf24l01 directly from the VCC output of the 3v3 Arduino.I used sockets on a project board so I have an option to upgrade the nrf24l01 module from the PCB antenna to a version with LNA amplifier for longer range. I've also posted a circuit diagram if it helps. Cover still fits perfectly, works great!