Shadow Of Intent

That's a great demonstration! I couldn't get the flow meter to work with the relatively small volumes of air (Before filling the system with water) but larger volumes and narrower tubes would help. Using a bottle as a pneumatic capacitor is a great idea!I wish I'd been introduced to demonstrations like yours when I was younger. Not only do they do a much better job at involving you, but they also make it easier to understand the reason why things work, rather than just the fact that they do!

Thank you! I did briefly mention adding pearlescent pigment in the video (It works very well in custom PC water cooling loops for showing the flow rate / direction) although it doesn't always show up as well on cameras since the particles / patterns are often too small to make out in detail.I did consider the idea of tiny plastic pieces as they'd make a better analogy for electrons, but I felt like they might cause issues with the one way valves, potentially causing them to stick open

That's not a bad idea, definitely worth considering for a larger build.This setup was optimised for for cost and space so it would have to be about 10% taller and wider to accommodate an additional 4 flow meters, plus it would have doubled the price what with even the cheapest flow meters being about £3 - 4 (I only spent around £12 - £15 on the tubing, syringes, connectors, valves and flow meter since I already had the wood offcuts and acrylic).The flow meter kind of represents the "load" on the DC side, so it might be a bit confusing to have one in series with each "diode". An ideal solution that comes to mind (If such a thing exists) would be valves that show whether they are in an open or closed state, perhaps by having a coloured sleeve that is exposed when the v...

That's not a bad idea, definitely worth considering for a larger build.This setup was optimised for for cost and space so it would have to be about 10% taller and wider to accommodate an additional 4 flow meters, plus it would have doubled the price what with even the cheapest flow meters being about £3 - 4 (I only spent around £12 - £15 on the tubing, syringes, connectors, valves and flow meter since I already had the wood offcuts and acrylic).The flow meter kind of represents the "load" on the DC side, so it might be a bit confusing to have one in series with each "diode". An ideal solution that comes to mind (If such a thing exists) would be valves that show whether they are in an open or closed state, perhaps by having a coloured sleeve that is exposed when the valve core slides open, similar to the pressure indicator tyre caps you can get!

Thanks! I was always fascinated by interactive exhibits at science museums as a child, so it's been great fun to make something that visualises electronics in another form!

I never got round to making a pdf, although the sketches of the gauntlet pieces are all to the same scale (I think) so you could just crop each page and enlarge the image to match the annotated dimensions, perhaps taking a few averages to fine tune the scale. Better close ups can be found here:Page 1: https://www.deviantart.com/flyntendo/art/Deathstro...Page 2: https://www.deviantart.com/flyntendo/art/Deathstro...Given that it's a fairly tight fitting part, and I hadn't designed it to split along a seam like the leg pieces, it may be better to take your own wrist / arm measurements and create a rough tapered cylinder to use as a base model first

Sure do, it's https://www.instagram.com/commodoreluna/I'm not very active on it though, I'm more likely to see messages on my facebook page https://www.facebook.com/CalibreDesignStudios

The FPV tutorial is now up!

I aim to have a tutorial out on that soon! Hoping to have all the modifications done by Halloween, so look out for it in the next few weeks!

Thanks :D

Thanks! The smaller version turned out to be much more desk friendly than its predecessor!

I'm not entirely familiar with the inner workings of cars, and you're right that the output voltage can vary, particularly depending on the power being supplied by the alternator. While there is no voltage protection in the LED strip, they are relatively resistant to voltages exceeding the recommended 12v, so it seems unlikely they would fail from this, especially since some car models with LED strips also have no voltage regulation / protection.The strip I used has red smds rather than white. The red housing should filter out most non-red wavelengths as it does for the incandescent bulbs, and since the LEDs are of a very similar wavelength to those permitted through the red plastic, the main uncertainty was one of the light intensity rather than the hue, but this ended up being within ...

I'm not entirely familiar with the inner workings of cars, and you're right that the output voltage can vary, particularly depending on the power being supplied by the alternator. While there is no voltage protection in the LED strip, they are relatively resistant to voltages exceeding the recommended 12v, so it seems unlikely they would fail from this, especially since some car models with LED strips also have no voltage regulation / protection.The strip I used has red smds rather than white. The red housing should filter out most non-red wavelengths as it does for the incandescent bulbs, and since the LEDs are of a very similar wavelength to those permitted through the red plastic, the main uncertainty was one of the light intensity rather than the hue, but this ended up being within expectations. As far as I can tell, the only litereature regarding the rear brake strip is that it should not exceed the intensity of the rear fog light, which it also conforms to.

Thanks! Aside from the fact it is now illuminated across the full width of the brake strip, larger gaps between the older bulbs (Even when they all still worked) made it look like a poor quality piece of technology.

That's a great alternative use for something like this, with one input and multiple outputs rather than many-in, one-out! Granted there are software solutions available for splitting a mouse and keyboard between computers now, you could also use additional decks on the switch to change display outputs too, if you only shared one screen between the computers too.It would have been perfect for the times I wanted to switch the phono and vga cables between an xbox and a pc. Instead I had to make do with cable tying all the input and output cables into the same arrangement and treating them as a single plug.

As far as I'm aware it doesn't support folder navigation due to the limited buttons on the front panel, and if it did, it still wouldn't be easy to browse through without looking at the small display.The plastic pellets come in several different grades of melting points, and yes, usually you just pour them into hot water and once they warm up enough they become clear and cohesive, taking on a consistency similar to blu-tak. I used 60°C melting point granules, but they wouldn't properly melt unless I used boiling water. They are also available in a 40°C variant, and some with higer melting points may need something like a heat gun to melt them instead.

Thank you! This is a rather quirky solution to a niche problem, and it does introduce some drawbacks such as extra wire clutter, but I'm glad there are people who understand the merits of simplifying a task by expanding the interface rather than vise versa!

I actually considered adding a light indicator while I was thinking of having the 6 USB porst spaced equally in a hexagon arrangement, but since there was sufficient space after aligning them exactly where the dial pointer lands, it was easy enough to use that instead. While a light would be handy in the dark, the feel of the dial at each position is instantly recognisable.Still, it'd certainly be something to bear in mind for similar projects!

I began to wonder about this mid way through making it. It would reduce the soldering time and be much cheaper to make higher numbers of USB ports available.I'm not entirely sure how usb ports cope with multiple parallel data lines, even if onle one +/- pair is "active". Multiple forum posts seem to suggest communication through the data lines isn't initiated until the device observes a 5v feed, so I reckon it could work!

The entire costume weighs in at just under 10kg, but with the weight distributed across your whole body it doesn't feel too heavy even after a whole day of wearing it. I used a fingle layer of 100gsm fibreglass across most of the pieces and it's strong enough to resist most hits, and round pieces such as the helmet are almost strong enough to stand on without cracking.The biggest cause of damage is dropping pieces, because the resin is quite brittle and the thicker the layers, the heavier a piece gets. This means that even making it stronger won't necessarily give it added protection against fall damage.That said, any cracks it sustains are usually quite minor, and easily repaired.

Thanks! I do regret not having photographed the templates I made so Im draw up vectors of them later, but a lot of them were trial and erroras I could only adjust them once I'd already made some parts. I didn't see this being something many people would have the time to make, so it didn't occur to me to keep the templates after. Relative to the time spent actually making the costume, the templates only took about 20% of the total time, so it's pretty much easier to construct your own templates, especially for the torso parts which would vary a lot from person to person in order to get the rib section to perfectly meet the chest plate.

Hi, there is an option to download them as a pdf already, it's next to the page navigation buttons as once you open the instructable

I do have some visibility through it, although I'm definitely hoping to re-visit this with something like a wide angle lens or an fpv camera!

Pretty strong. It would probably break if it was rested on both ends and something like a medium sized dog jumped on the middle though. You can always reinforce it by putting a wooden dowel right down the middle though.The main damage you'd see from it is dents and scratches from being dropped. while the foam isn't "spongey" like EVA foam, it's fairly soft and low density (Hence why it's so easily carved)

That's covered at the end of step 5. How you decide to attach it depends on whether you're going to vac form the visor or bend it from a sheet of flat plastic / acrylic

This is essentially the cheapest way. Either this, or use layers of foam board

I have another instructable for it, but it's basically 10mm acrylic with an rgb led strip running along it.I'm not currently taking commissions because of time constraints (Yay 90 hour work weeks!) but I might consider them in the future

You've done an incredible job! I just had a look through the photos you've uploaded, looks like you've used frosted acrylic/perspex rather than clear? Either way the light diffusion is far more effective than on mine!I had considered using the RGB controller that came with my LED strip, but it wouldn't have been easy to mount discretely in the handle, and I was aiming for thumb activated controls rather than using the remote, although the remote does have the benefit of a much wider variety of strobeing and fading patterns

The case was already badly painted and damaged when I got it, so I couldn't restore it to its original conditionThe internal components were also non functional, and since they were so antiquated there would be no point replacing themThe form factor was not compatible with any ATX boards or other Mac parts, hence the need to fit the newer IO cutout and motherboard trayI thought the point of G5 conversions was self explanatory, but it not, the only use of this case would literally have been an empty box or a shelf ornament. The greater sacrilege would have been to throw it away for lack of compatibility with modern products

If you're only interested in having one colour, and no adjustable brightness, you could just use a blue LED strip instead, as you say.You'll still need a battery pack and a switch though, so to get the 12v you'll either need a prebuilt 12v battery pack, or use battery holders wired together and fill it with your own batteries. Some AA battery holders have on/off switches built in, so if you find an 8x AA holder with a switch it'll simplify it even more

That's amazing! Great job on finishing it, these costumes take a lot of time and dedication but it's worth it when you have something everyone can appreciate in the end!Being able to wear it at conventions and faires is a really rewarding experience too, so it's nice when there's somewhere you can go to be able to show it off among other creatively minded people!