Steve Tyng

The red splatter on the router table was the perfect touch. Love the project, well done.

Checkout the first vid at around the 8:20 mark and it shows how the cam works. It's kept in place and locked into position by a washer and nut on the back side.

There are some that would disagree with you! ;-)

Thanks

On the wiring. This router doesn't see much use. I figure if it ever becomes an issue at the bend area, I'll just cut that section of wire out and splice in something more flexible.

I'm using these currently. They say nema23 but there a little bigger, nema24's.https://www.automationtechnologiesinc.com/products...

Phidgets.com. I get most of my #25 chain components from them.https://www.phidgets.com/?tier=3&catid=43&pcid=36&...

Working on it.

Nice work. I love any CNC build where the builder bucks the trend and builds their own rail system. Looking at just another bolted together pile of aluminum extrusions and Chinese rails gets boring after awhile.

Excellent work my friend. Great use of whatever you had laying around. For a better dust collector setup, check out the ones I came up with on my CNC builds. Again, great job!

For the initial build, I figure I have about $900USD into it not including the PC and Ikea cabinet.

Exellent! That's why I posted this build. To hopefully give others ideas for their projects.

It's getting more elegant with each rebuild!

I'll need to take a closer look at your drag knife if/when I decide to get into vinyl cutting. On the plans set, I'm slowly working on it. On the dust collection, I'm playing around with different configurations.

Not sure. I don't see any oposite 90 degree angles for the v-bearings to grab to.

I have 12t sprockets on the drive chains which gives 3" travel for each revolution. Driving that is a 3.555 to 1 reduction with microstepping set to 8 on the drivers. That equates to a .000527" resolution (I think) for each motor step.

The mechanism is a little hard to describe. Check out this video at the 1:10 mark. That might help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXfWWEwZMZc&t=1s

Each ones different right now. The Mk2 version that I'm currently building will have a matched pair of 425oz steppers on the X and Y axis and a 225oz on the Z lift.

Each ones different right now. The Mk2 version that I'm currently building will have a matched pair of 425oz steppers on the X and Y axis and a 225oz on the Z lift.

Each ones different right now. The Mk2 version that I'm currently building will have a matched pair of 425oz steppers on the X and Y axis and a 225oz on the Z lift.

Each ones different right now. The Mk2 version that I'm currently building will have a matched pair of 425oz steppers on the X and Y axis and a 225oz on the Z lift.

If I where to do a vertical router. I think I would do the gantry as a big right angle triangle hung from a top horizontal Y axis rail. I'd only drive the Y axis from the top rail.

On the vertical setup. I don't see why not. You would need to counter balance the router carriage with a weight or a constant force spring setup.

Nice idea with the sliding sections.

You win CNC dad of the year! Nice job!

Thanks for the info.

I'm using the 1/8" thick stuff.

Nice job on the vacuum table. I like the use of the foam as a sacrificial element. What are you using to cut the foam board for the airplane parts?

Nice conversion. Don't think I'd have the heart to do that to my 50 year old Craftsman drill press!

Nice work. Especially like the face turned drawer front elements.

I'm using an Arduini UNO and TB6600 drivers. I'm using the EstlCAM firmware.What's your microstepping set to?

My setup is simular to this: https://kalaakaar.in/cnc-controller-with-arduino-tb6600-and-grbl/To wire to the UNO I used one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HF2DD7T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The chain is tensioned to remove as much slack as possible (like tightening a guitar string). With the chain supported it's always in a straight line so the amount of chain to travel to get from one point to another is always constant. If it droops, this introduces an arc to the chain. An arc is not a straight line from point A to B and the arc constantly changes depending where the gantry is. To me this means you will not have a constant amount of chain to travel to get to any point. Of course, were proably splitting hairs here between the two but I was able to support the cahin in my design so I went with it.

I'm using the EstlCAM firmware.

Thanks!

I'm using EstlCAM.

Thanks! I was wondering, how much Z axis travel would you want for the guitar work?

Space is always at a premium in the shop. My first router project was a 4x5' monster that was designed to fold up when not in use. Sadly I never finished that router. The shop (and the house it sat behind) was sold when I had to move to another area.

Thanks!

Your router is hardcore Dude! Nice work. Haven't considered timing belts. I had a bunch of the #25 chain and sprockets available so I went with that.

It's all mine! Thanks for the kind words.

Thanks!

I haven't lubed the chains, relying on the factory oil (so far). This isn't a production machine so hopefully I'll get some good life out of the chains. As far as sawdust, my dust collection gets most of it but I do hit the cahins with the vacuum after a run to keep them debris free.

You mean for me to get off my arse and do an actual plan set? ;-) I wasn't to keen on the idea until the 17K views this Instructable has gotten in the first three days. I'm toying with the idea, trying thinking of ways to simplify the design a bit. I'll let you know...

Thanks and my apologies for adding to your dream load!

It's from the Ikea Varde collection. No longer manufactured unfortunantly.