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14Instructables990,448Views1,370CommentsCanada
Just getting into the microcontroller craze. I used to do this sort of thing building circuits for 8 bit microprocessors back in the early 80s, so this is kind of like reliving a bit of my childhood. Back then I programmed in machine code, so now I am teaching myself C for the Arduino. It's a fun way to waste some time, and it's nice to have a hobby. More recently now, I am getting into printed circuit board design so that I can take what I make with the Arduino, and make stand-alone circuits. …

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  • Glad it was just a solder joint and a jumper needed to fix it all up. Have fun!

    Please not that is there is an issue with Blue1, none of the blue will work since they are all basically wired in series for the data.

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  • I responded to your email. Check your junk folder

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  • Nobody else is having issues with it.

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  • check your messages for replies, or use email at supertech@theledcube.com

    This would indicate an issue with the blue4 (b4) chip assuming you are numbering your panels from 0. If there is no blue in any column in the panel, then it would indicate, that since you have tried another chip, that there is no power to the chip. Check the V+ and GND to the chip. Resolder the chip's socket first in case it's just a bad solder connection. If either GND or VCC are not present at the chip, you will need to run a jumper to the disconnected pin.If you mean the phsically 6th panel, then this is HALF of the B3 (blkue 3) chip. This means the chip is working fine on the 5th panel. For an entire half of the chip to be not working it would mean either you got a super bad factory defect, or customs tried to peek in the package and cut the traces with a knife. Check continuity from …

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    This would indicate an issue with the blue4 (b4) chip assuming you are numbering your panels from 0. If there is no blue in any column in the panel, then it would indicate, that since you have tried another chip, that there is no power to the chip. Check the V+ and GND to the chip. Resolder the chip's socket first in case it's just a bad solder connection. If either GND or VCC are not present at the chip, you will need to run a jumper to the disconnected pin.If you mean the phsically 6th panel, then this is HALF of the B3 (blkue 3) chip. This means the chip is working fine on the 5th panel. For an entire half of the chip to be not working it would mean either you got a super bad factory defect, or customs tried to peek in the package and cut the traces with a knife. Check continuity from the chip to the panel. Run jumpers where necessary. Is it whe WHOLE panel that has no blue or just one column?

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  • I did answer this, but I can't see it now as it was an "answer" rather than a "reply"....Instructables was so much better organized years ago. Every time they "improve" it, it becomes harder and harder to use.Anyways, here goes.Look for simple stuff first. Pop the blue chip responsible for that column. Each blue chip controls the columns in 2 panels. Blue 1 controls the columns in the 2 panels closest to the transistors. See if the pin bent when you put it in the socket.Look at the socket itself and make sure it;s OKPut in a different chip to make sure the chip itself is not the issue. If this fixes the problem, contact the ebay supplier, and they will happily send you a new one.Check continuity from the pin of the chip responsible for the dead column. If the…

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    I did answer this, but I can't see it now as it was an "answer" rather than a "reply"....Instructables was so much better organized years ago. Every time they "improve" it, it becomes harder and harder to use.Anyways, here goes.Look for simple stuff first. Pop the blue chip responsible for that column. Each blue chip controls the columns in 2 panels. Blue 1 controls the columns in the 2 panels closest to the transistors. See if the pin bent when you put it in the socket.Look at the socket itself and make sure it;s OKPut in a different chip to make sure the chip itself is not the issue. If this fixes the problem, contact the ebay supplier, and they will happily send you a new one.Check continuity from the pin of the chip responsible for the dead column. If there is none, try resoldering the chip socket. If this does not run a jumper wire from the socket to the column.

    There are very few possibilities here. Since you replaced the column itself, I will not consider a short in the column itself. Now we have to look at why the signal is not getting to the column from the chip. Step 1 is resolder the chip responsible for that column. Each blue chip does every column for 2 panels, with blue 1 controlling the columns closest to the transistors. The second, less likely possibility is that you got a 1 in a million factory defect. This will involve using a continuity meter to look to see if there is or is not continuity from the chip to the column. Make darn sure of obvious thing though - pull the chip and make sure one of the legs didn't bend when you put it in the socket. Also, swap the chip with another - a very low possibility is you got a bad chip, in which…

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    There are very few possibilities here. Since you replaced the column itself, I will not consider a short in the column itself. Now we have to look at why the signal is not getting to the column from the chip. Step 1 is resolder the chip responsible for that column. Each blue chip does every column for 2 panels, with blue 1 controlling the columns closest to the transistors. The second, less likely possibility is that you got a 1 in a million factory defect. This will involve using a continuity meter to look to see if there is or is not continuity from the chip to the column. Make darn sure of obvious thing though - pull the chip and make sure one of the legs didn't bend when you put it in the socket. Also, swap the chip with another - a very low possibility is you got a bad chip, in which case the supplier will replace it. Make sure the pin didn't come out of the socket before you soldered everything - also unlikely as you would catch this when you went to solder the pin, and it was not there.

    I would love a copy of your animation code.

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  • I like my cubes better...LOL!!!

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  • Ya, most backorders should be arriving now to 1 week from now.

    Been a long time since I have seen an UNO elimminator....wow...I was just going through some of the "I made it" things here and thought I would say HI. Life got kinda hard for me over the last couple years, but hopefully I might find a new project soon.

    Ya, I figured most of the backorders will be arriving today to about a week from now.If you were waiting an especially long time and did not order the bridge boards or music module, look for them as a bonus in your order.

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  • use Kevin darrah\s original code or my non-parallel code.

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  • It's just one of the processor options. The eliminators were just very specific and much more compact ways of connecting the processor to the board, but I stopped making them ages ago. The board itself is about 9-5/8 inches by 8-3/4 inches and the LEDs stand about 7-1/2 inches tall.

    You need to ask Doug Domke about the RGB code...I'm the hardware guy. Maybe try using MPIDE - I've never compiled my code the way you are, and therefore have no idea what's going on. Also, try older versions of your software.

    I was unable to pay for sufficient boards to fill all the current backorders, and I am backordered again (still). I have another 2 going out today or tomorrow, and I cannot recall if yours is in that list or not. One of them is an order so old, I had to refund the customer so he could re-order it ... Otherwise I would be unable to print a shipping label through Paypal because of the time that had elapsed. I will look into this further and we can discuss if you want to wait further or accept a refund.

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  • There is one that follows Kevin Darrah's exact circuit with serial layer data, and my faster one that needs one less shift register by sending the layer data in parallel rather than serial. Please read everything if you want to understand the code better.

    Impossible. The arduino doesn't have the memory to do all that the 32A does.

    All the effects for the Atmega 32A will not fit in an arduino.

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  • SuperTech-IT commented on chr's instructable LED Cube 8x8x8

    It's easier to get rid of the MAX chip, and get a USB to serial TTL - and connect directly via TTL serialI made a PCB for this project, and I use only TTL for serial.

    You may want to look at my easy to construct PCBs at www.TheLEDCube.com

    CHR long abandoned this, but I made one and an RGB. See www.TheLEDCube.com

    we keep saying that instructables just makes you make it a TMP and all you have to do is rename it....thanks mate

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  • Not necessary when using a DC source.

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  • the "eliminators" were for more advanced users, and were not popular enough for me to continue producing. These were tiny TINY boards meant for those that didn't want to use their prototyping boards to run the project. The eliminators were replaced by the bridge boards that allow you to snap on or snap off your Arduino or Chipkit from the board.

    You can use any microcontroller....limitations are, if you use an Arduiono UNO, you will NOT have music capability (which is an option with the music board...just not with the UNO).The Chipkit UNO (apparently no longer available) and Chipkit uC 32, are the best options if you want to use music response too.David Yee transposed the Arduino UNO code for the Arduino MEGA2560 and we added my music response code to that as well.The board can only accept ONE processor at any time.shipping size on the main board is about 10 by 10.5 inches, but if you want actual specific sizes, I'll have to look, and it'll be either in CM or MM, not inches.

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  • That is not a solution. It might work for a day or 2, but the bearing still needs to be lubricated.

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  • For power saving (if wanted)Replace power switch with a push-button. Push button bypasses a relay contact to give power to the microcontroller. Fist thing the microcontroller does is power on the relay, which now becomes the "power on" switch. After delay, arduino powers off the relay, disconnecting it from power completely (ZERO power draw). I did this in my "vampire killer" project - there is a schematic there for this complete power off / push button to start" circuit.

    Mice twist on a classic creation!

    Nice twist on a classic creation!

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  • I get the feeling I was just tested tp see if I was a noob or pro.

    I'd like to see a picture of the back of your power supply before you go ripping things apart.

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  • Usually if a system gets louder when loaded, it's the CPU fan, not the PSU fan that you are hearing.This fix is for when your PSU fan starts making that low pitched growling noise.

    MOST PSU units do not increase/decrease speed with load. This is why I questioned. I wanted you to be absolutely SURE it was the PSU fan, and not the CPU/GPU fan, which usually do respond to load, often quite dramatically.It's nice that you have a supply that tries to be quiet under lesser loads. It's obviously worth saving.

    In that case, you absolutely need to do this. And NOW !I am simply showing an easier way - if your supply does not have access through the holes like I show, then you need to open it up and remove the fan and get it oiled, or that supply is going to fail, and possibly take out other equipment.A non-ball bearing fan (sleeve bearing) is the same no matter what the supply. If it's growling, you need to either do this, or replace the fan - or worst case, get a new supply.If you actually have sewing machine oil or 3-in-1 or the likes, absolutely do it.DO NOT use WD-40. WD-40 is a water displacer and not actually meant as a lubricant. If there is a rubber grommet under the label, by all means, inject. If there is no grommet (usually found out when you try to inject) you can still inject, and ta…

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    In that case, you absolutely need to do this. And NOW !I am simply showing an easier way - if your supply does not have access through the holes like I show, then you need to open it up and remove the fan and get it oiled, or that supply is going to fail, and possibly take out other equipment.A non-ball bearing fan (sleeve bearing) is the same no matter what the supply. If it's growling, you need to either do this, or replace the fan - or worst case, get a new supply.If you actually have sewing machine oil or 3-in-1 or the likes, absolutely do it.DO NOT use WD-40. WD-40 is a water displacer and not actually meant as a lubricant. If there is a rubber grommet under the label, by all means, inject. If there is no grommet (usually found out when you try to inject) you can still inject, and tape over the hole after.

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  • You cannot say there WILL be stability problems.There MAY be stability problems - and I have never run into any thus far.Yes, it's good practice to put in external caps, but the device itself is designed with all the components it NEEDS internally to operate properly under most conditions.If you are worried about it, use a RECOM 7805 replacement device. It's more efficient and does not require these components outside of the device.When using a DC source, a cap on the input side is redundant, and the cap on the output only serves to provide additional stability with rapidly changing loads (of which a cell phone is not one)

    I have never found the capacitors to be necessary. Back in the 80's when I first was using these regulators, the capacitors were not ever even mentioned.

    I am not saying DON'T use them - add them if you wish - but for this application, they simply aren't needed.

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  • boards are shipping again

    Ya, the way Doug made the layer code was for speed.What you might have thought of doing was putting in a shift register or demultiplexer so that you could control the 16 layers without needing additional pins - but as long as it all worked, then cool! It must look awesome when running. Thanks for posting this info in case others are thinking about trying the same vertical modification.

    A bridge for the Nano is coming. It is no bigger than the nano itself as the 20 pins for the connection to the base are underneath the bridge - so it's kinda like plugging the nano right down onto the board.

    Boards are shipping

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  • boards are shipping again

    I'd love to hear back from you as to the code you have adapted, and exactly how you interconnected the boards etc. To my knowledge, thus far you are the only one to take advantage of the fact that the boards were designed with the thought that someone might want to do this.

    Boards are shipping as normal again. Please contact if you pre-ordered in the last few months and still have not received your board(s).

    Boards are shipping again. Message me if you didn't get your board(s) yet.

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  • It's best to email me directly at SuperTech (at) TheLEDCube (dot) com

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  • Late for him maybe, but I think this is EXACTLY what I need for my upcoming project! THANKS!

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  • Please don't clog up the instructable with code. Also, nobody has any idea if you are asking a question, or providing a solution. Please delete this when you have a chance. If it's a solution, I will put your code in a file where people can get it. If you have a question, please try to ask it better.

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  • I was looking to see how many followers I have and who they are too, and I couldn't find it. The more I look around the new format, the more I realize that it was way better before.

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  • SuperTech-IT followed arduino channel
  • This would require much larger SSRs but of course this is possible. A real time clock module could be added as well - but devices like this already exist. This device is meant for the person that has a lot of devices in a central location.

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  • if the noise is coming from the fan, then yes, this is exactly what I developed this technique for.

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  • UPDATE: there are a few bridge boards left so if you have been waiting since April/may/june etc for your boards CONTACT ME ASAP to make sure you get one of the few remaining. Once these are gone, we're going back to backordered until I get more finances to replace the lost and stolen boards.

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  • SuperTech-IT commented on chr's instructable LED Cube 8x8x8

    Thanks. Most components on the board allow for SMT or through-hole.

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  • UPDATE - NOVEMBER 29, 2016NOTICE - ANYONE THAT ORDERED AN RGB MAIN BOARD (WITHOUT BRIDGE) PRIOR TO AUG.15, AND HAS NOT RECEIVED ONE AND DID NOT GET A REFUND, PLEASE EMAIL ME AT SUPERTECH@THELEDCUBE.COM. I HAVE A LIMITED NUMBER OF MAIN BOARDS THAT TURNED UP, AND I WANT TO GET THE OLDEST ORDERS OUT FIRST !!! THE PRINT SHIPPING LABEL TAGS FOR ORDERS BEFORE THIS TIME ARE NO LONGER SHOWING IN PAYPAL. IF YOU HAVE YOUR PAYPAL ORDER NUMBER, THAT WILL MAKE THINGS EVEN EASIER. Some orders placed after that time are also being filled. A limited number of bridge boards are arriving soon as well, so people that ordered JUST bridge boards are also encouraged to email me your order number. If your name is different in your paypal than in your email, please let me know what name it was ordered under as w…

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    UPDATE - NOVEMBER 29, 2016NOTICE - ANYONE THAT ORDERED AN RGB MAIN BOARD (WITHOUT BRIDGE) PRIOR TO AUG.15, AND HAS NOT RECEIVED ONE AND DID NOT GET A REFUND, PLEASE EMAIL ME AT SUPERTECH@THELEDCUBE.COM. I HAVE A LIMITED NUMBER OF MAIN BOARDS THAT TURNED UP, AND I WANT TO GET THE OLDEST ORDERS OUT FIRST !!! THE PRINT SHIPPING LABEL TAGS FOR ORDERS BEFORE THIS TIME ARE NO LONGER SHOWING IN PAYPAL. IF YOU HAVE YOUR PAYPAL ORDER NUMBER, THAT WILL MAKE THINGS EVEN EASIER. Some orders placed after that time are also being filled. A limited number of bridge boards are arriving soon as well, so people that ordered JUST bridge boards are also encouraged to email me your order number. If your name is different in your paypal than in your email, please let me know what name it was ordered under as well.

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  • You need to set for manual exposure, and adjust the exposure til you get a look you like.

    Ha....the ghost was cute. Keep up the good work. Hope you get some Christmas stuff up for the guys! LOL!

    The DM13A are NOT the problem.In the software you can reduce the red overall buy dividing it's value before storing in the matrix.The other possibility is to alter the refresh rate.If it's only happening in specific animations, it may be that the animation itself is simply taking too much processor for it's calculations to run smoothly.

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  • You would do the reduction in the code. The cube should not flicker, although it may under Arduino control a bit. If using an Arduino, I suggest moving up to one of the better (PIC) microcontrollers.

    Love to see a video of it working.

    ask fiddaman - I am not a Pi guy

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  • Some LEDs require less current for the RED than the other colours. It's just the way the LEDs are made. The easiest fix is to reduce the RED value (sometimes by as much as half) before the cube is drawn.

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  • Yes, that would work too if you have something that will easily cut the ribs. Glad you found this article useful. When I was working as a tech and doing many machines a day, it saved me hundreds of hours of time, and saved the customers countless amounts from not having to replace their power supplies.

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  • UPDATE: Realizing I simply don't have the income currently to get a set of boards while people are backing out and requesting refunds, I am reaching out to possible investors that want to help me get this project back up and running so that you can all get your products or refunds in a more timely manner. To those being patient, I thank you. To those backing out, I don't blame you at all. Please be aware that I am doing all I can to get everything resolved.

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  • Slowly trying to gather enough cash to fill the current orders. Sorry, no ETA at this time.Thanks for the kind words about the boards themselves, but the main reason most order and repeat ordered in the past was the support along the way if anything goes wrong or if there are any issues. Thanks for hanging in there. I am not going anywhere, and I will have this project back on the road as soon as I can afford to.

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  • UPDATE:I am sorry to report that all orders placed after April 15 have still not shipped. However all current refund requests have been fulfilled. This unfortunately leaves me at zero trying to gather the cash to replace the lost and stolen orders. As you may have read in the instructable, I suffered one loss of boards in a move, and then had an entire shipment stolen before I had a chance to ship any of them out (along with my ipad and many other expensive goodies). Your orders are still in the system and noted as priority from oldest to newest. I will understand if you want a refund, and would not blame you, but please note that the refunds are making it extremely difficult for me to save enough for a run of boards to fill the existing orders. Thanks again for your patience in this matt…

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    UPDATE:I am sorry to report that all orders placed after April 15 have still not shipped. However all current refund requests have been fulfilled. This unfortunately leaves me at zero trying to gather the cash to replace the lost and stolen orders. As you may have read in the instructable, I suffered one loss of boards in a move, and then had an entire shipment stolen before I had a chance to ship any of them out (along with my ipad and many other expensive goodies). Your orders are still in the system and noted as priority from oldest to newest. I will understand if you want a refund, and would not blame you, but please note that the refunds are making it extremely difficult for me to save enough for a run of boards to fill the existing orders. Thanks again for your patience in this matter as I try to get business rolling again.

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  • Please email supertech at theledcube dot com directly and in English if you are having problems using the in-site messaging system

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  • My boards work for any cube built to CHR's way, but unfortunately right now my boards are out of stock with no firm ETA for new ones due to unforeseen circumstances plus a theft.You can still pre-order the board (RAMP board) and you will have one shipped as soon as the new ones arrive - I just cannot say exactly when that is going to be next.

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  • Unfortunately, no. I am trying to save up for a new batch to replace the stolen ones, but as people request refunds because of the delays, those savings go out in the form of refunds, and I am at zero again.It's a bad downward spiral that is starting to get quite depressing.Trust me, if I come into any sort of windfall, or if I get a bunch of orders without refund requests, I will get a new batch ASAP.Unfortunately, current circumstances make it impossible to form any kind of an ETA. Thanks for your patience, and I will keep you all updated.

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  • We tried to make the code as easy to add to as possible. It's best to try to understand the existing code and then add to it yourself.

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