TSJWang

hi sorry for noticing this super late.I used Copper Connection its my favorite but recently has been bought by ExpressPCB so it's not really available anymore...Best to learn Eagle since most PCB CAD software is like that.

People should be very careful when working with hydrogen peroxide and acetone! Do not mix the two.

Hi,If it is indeed a microcontroller, I'm sure it could be reprogrammed. How easy that will be is another question.If there is documentation that would make it much easier.

I use Copper Connection. It used to be free software but now it's owned by ExpressPCB. It's essentially the same software but Copper Connection's UI is a little better.

Good question!I think back then I only had 1.6k resistors, so I had to add a 100 ohm in series to get 1.7k.I wrote 1.7k in the board because I assumed I had one at the time but I didn't.

ur a genius

This is beautiful.

*Humble*

This is amazing!

Beautiful!

I did not do the calculations for this circuit, but I do know USB is pretty sensitive voltage levels.You can put two 100 ohm resistors or one 200 ohm resistor in series to your 1.5k resistor.There are various reasons the USB device cannot be recognized, you'll have to debug it to find out which component is the issue if the resistor isn't the issue.Good luck!

I'm assuming your talking about programming the attiny?you should be using the t45 chip. Yea, after you burn the fuses it becomes a programmer, you can only test for other chips attached to your new usbtiny.see PeterK138's comment if it helps:Hi guys correct way to upload that using arduino: HEX: avrdude -P com3 -b 19200 -c avrisp -p attiny85 -v -e -U flash:w:usbtiny.hexFUSE:avrdude -P com3 -b 19200 -c avrisp -p attiny85 -v -e -U lfuse:w:0xff:m -U hfuse:w:0xdf:m**if it still doesn't work, feel free to dm me!

oh yeain step two, you have to write the hex file, and then burn the fuses afterwards.You won't be able to check if it works because we burning these fuses will brick the chip. It can no longer be read unless you have a 12v programmer.

When there's heat that means there's a lot of energy being wasted.That probably means there's a short in the board: either inside a component or on the traces.I think what's happening with your Arduino is some component(s) between the USB and ATMega are broken. When you run it off battery, you bypass those components and nothing heats up.Be careful with the heat! You might want a new Arduino to prevent breaking your computer's USB port or anything else.

I didn't have a schematic: it was very arbitrary.If you look at the datasheet for the 2560, you can decide what features you want to have.Here is the original schematic of the Arduino Mega: https://www.arduino.cc/en/uploads/Main/arduino-mega2560_R3-sch.pdf

Hi,Towards the end of the instructable I talk about how I solder ISP programming pins. If you have an ISP programmer you can burn the bootloader that way.

For this I didn't bother with the capacitors.http://embeddedelectronicsforatmegaseries.blogspot...according to this blog, there are calculations you can do for the crystal to see what capacitor to use.