TechKiwiGadgets

Cool great feedback thanks. Am working on a PCB that with these ports that means makers don't have to contend with all of the soldering. I Will post a photo of the next iteration when the boards arrive!

Hi its not a big number. Ive put links into the list of materials so that should give you a good idea of the overall cost.

Sorry not at this moment. Primarily because I've used premade cables. I have included a PDF with pin assignments for the Arduino.

Thanks great feedback am exploring options for this now

Thanks for the feedback, good point about the pencil. I'm considering a pcb so very helpful

Thanks good feeback.

Thanks for the feedback good idea. Was thinking I could use the touch screen feature to drive tests through buttons

Yes very good point. I started with Perf Board but then switched to Vero Board for the 16x16 board for this very reason. Have a close look at the board configuration below.

Hi sorry about that will clarify and update - Touch ILI9341 Driver

Hi Ive put a link in the part list to give you an example of where I ordered. Ideally you want strip based board

Yes alot of people asking for this in feedback as well as RJ45. Am investigating options.

Hi, great questions. 1. I created the Array originally to store pointers to store the Pin Numbers and Text Descriptions of each USB Pin. I also was going to use this to store the state of the Pin however found it was easier just to draw the screen in real-time. Therefore the Array pi state is not used. I thought I would leave it in as I suspect newer versions may use it.2. The significance of the 24 is that USB-C plugs have 24 pins. My hypothesis was that some cables would have 24 wires plus a shield. In practice once I opened them up the maximum I found was 18 plus a shield. Thanks for the feedback

Yes good point I agree there is a case for possibly just having a USB-A V3 input socket as they are backward compatible with USB-A V2 cables.I considered however decided to leave in for the prototype.

Thanks Mike your feeback is greatly appreciated. I too have some nostalgia about this as I attempted many years ago to build a tracer with microdevices however it was a lot harder to develop and program. There are some incredible resources available today that have made this a lot easier for individuals to start from scratch and learn online.

Nice work

Yes, a very good point, I found there was some variability between the same device. There is an adjustment for current and voltage however it as you say is not super accurate. I decided that they would be good enough to give a relative reading of performance so you can compare for cable and charging issues. In the end I connected my two units in series and adjusted the voltage and current potentiometer so that they were at least saying the same :)

Ha ha worked at DEC for 2 years in a repair centre and used these. Real work horses.

One of my first roles was to work in a repair centre at Digital. Ha ha nice work.

No issues to date.

RIP little puppy. This instructable is dedicated to you.

Awesome work well done!!

Nice work impressive job!! Looks awesome :)

Hello, the file Eco_Friendly_Metal_Detector_V8.ino is the latest version and should compile with the Arduino Mega.Check you have UTFT.h and URtouch.h libraries loaded correctly in the Arduino IDE and the correct board loaded.If you continue to have problems message me directly with your email address and I will get in touch so you can send some screenshots of the error messages

Hi can you please send me a photo of your circuit and also a video of the startup sequence. DM me a link to the files and I can help troubleshooting.

Hi, I cant seem to read the file you have sent. can you resend the error message either a photo or cut and paste of the errors

HiI suspect it could be a newer version of the IDE and library files causing the issue.Try loading an earlier version of the IDE outlined in the instructable. I will do a test on latest IDE this week to see if I can resolve.

Hey no probs. I used shipping foam that the TFT screen was shipped with and cut to the size of the boards. This has hot glue on both sides to ensure its kept in place. The important thing is to ensure that the PCB tracks are well insulated and do not touch the each other. Use plenty of hot glue. See this image and let me know if you need anymore help

Good idea

Yes that would just require hunting for the right pvc tube and fittings. I made another unit with a 1m length PVC and added a handle and bezel at the end of the pvc tube. Great for poking into ceilings to see wiring.

Message me a picture of the problem and I will check out. I did put a screen glare surround but it should be bright enough. There are some things in the code that can be adjusted.

Nice work. I like the lens. I used 2 x 3W because I didn't need a heat sink and lower voltage.

Hi, the complication I have is I have given the unit to my parents as a gift :)So I cant test your request to change the code. However I will make another suggestion once I have worked through the code again. It may take a few days

I just reloaded the code. Not sure what caused that. Try now.

Hi1. The variable "dimmer" has a numerical value between 20 and 100 sets the brightness. If you set this to a predetermined value by inserting this in row 176 of the codeDimmer = 50; // Manually set brightness with Dimmer variable2. Try adding the code to line 877itis(); // Display It IsLet me know how you get on

Revised LED Mount STL file now up on Thingiverse!!

Ahh yes I remember now, my apologies. After adding some reinforcing to the STL I had to snip some of the plastic I included in the latest version. Have a closer look at this picture below and see the manual modifications to the print. I intended on modifying the design to accommodate this however didn't complete. I will mention in the text above an updated print for this soon. I suggest you trim the corners off with a pair of snippers and around the supports manually.

That's weird let me double check tonight and come back to you

Hi, the most common problem in this case is a bad connection in the LED array. This happened to me. Check the connections at led 61 in particular the led orientation

The LED control would be straight forward I haven't tried the RTC with esp boards yet

Actually you could pull the time from the internet from an ESP so wouldn't need a RTC

Nice work, has a great finish!! I used a Glass bed and Gluestick however you got a better finish

Hi the finished clock dimensions are approx 190mm X 190mm x 50mm

Hi I think my print was less than 12 hours on an Ender 3. It does not require a high quality finish being interior to the clock so you can up the speed to 60mms and use a draft print quality to speed things up.

Just double checked and got 13.5 hours

The LDR is approx 8K to 20K. I have provided a link for this part. Yes they are WS2812B RGB White for that link. Apologies this was a typo corrected now.

Yep, I used an emboss feature in Windows 3D Builder to cut the text into 4mm thick horizontal strips. Then I put a 0.8mm layer over the front panel. You can open the STL provided and take thickness measurements. PS. LDR link now in parts list

Excluding the battery all parts were about 10USD sourced online The lipo battery is best sourced locally due to high freight costs due to new shipping safety regulations. That locally for me was another 10USD. Hope that helps.

Thanks for pointing this out. My mistake from a test LED I used. Ive updated the link. The cost was approx 9USD for 100 LEDs here. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10-1000pcs-4-Pin-WS2812B-WS2812-LED-Chip-Heatsink-5V-5050-RGB-WS2811-IC-Built-in/32634454437.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dvZqP8rAnd these are the LEDs I used for this project.

Hi thanks yes you are correct I used the wrong link. I am uploading actual supplier I used.

First, check that the file is valid by opening it with notepad or another text editor - a .ino file is just text. Arduino also requires that each .ino file is in a folder with the same name so check you have it stored in a subdirectory with the same name. Let me know how you get on. There is a V4 now available. I have tested on multiple nanos from the downloaded file so the integrity of the file seems ok. Also check you have the latest IDE version.

I just put V2 up. Let me know if problem persists.

Hi, I just put a V3 up as I had some problems loading after downloading. Let me know the error message if it persists. I also had to restart the IDE application to ensure the code would load after the first error.

I've never tried. It may well however there may be performance issues drawing graphics because I think this uses serial communication. The touch and tftf drivers would need to be checked for compatibility with the code. My advice is if you are going to make the unit stick with the recommended screen as proven to work. However if you already have the screen and want to rework the code it could be worth trying

If you haven't gotten these let me know and I'll create new files

Check you have recommended version of IDE. Load the set time sketch and see if you can set time on the rtc. Message me if still having issues