TechKiwiGadgets

Nice work, has a great finish!! I used a Glass bed and Gluestick however you got a better finish

Hi I think my print was less than 12 hours on an Ender 3. It does not require a high quality finish being interior to the clock so you can up the speed to 60mms and use a draft print quality to speed things up.

Just double checked and got 13.5 hours

Hi the finished clock dimensions are approx 190mm X 190mm x 50mm

The LDR is approx 8K to 20K. I have provided a link for this part. Yes they are WS2812B RGB White for that link. Apologies this was a typo corrected now.

Yep, I used an emboss feature in Windows 3D Builder to cut the text into 4mm thick horizontal strips. Then I put a 0.8mm layer over the front panel. You can open the STL provided and take thickness measurements. PS. LDR link now in parts list

Excluding the battery all parts were about 10USD sourced online The lipo battery is best sourced locally due to high freight costs due to new shipping safety regulations. That locally for me was another 10USD. Hope that helps.

Thanks for pointing this out. My mistake from a test LED I used. Ive updated the link. The cost was approx 9USD for 100 LEDs here. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10-1000pcs-4-Pin-WS2812B-WS2812-LED-Chip-Heatsink-5V-5050-RGB-WS2811-IC-Built-in/32634454437.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dvZqP8rAnd these are the LEDs I used for this project.

Hi thanks yes you are correct I used the wrong link. I am uploading actual supplier I used.

First, check that the file is valid by opening it with notepad or another text editor - a .ino file is just text. Arduino also requires that each .ino file is in a folder with the same name so check you have it stored in a subdirectory with the same name. Let me know how you get on. There is a V4 now available. I have tested on multiple nanos from the downloaded file so the integrity of the file seems ok. Also check you have the latest IDE version.

Hi, I just put a V3 up as I had some problems loading after downloading. Let me know the error message if it persists. I also had to restart the IDE application to ensure the code would load after the first error.

I just put V2 up. Let me know if problem persists.

If you haven't gotten these let me know and I'll create new files

I've never tried. It may well however there may be performance issues drawing graphics because I think this uses serial communication. The touch and tftf drivers would need to be checked for compatibility with the code. My advice is if you are going to make the unit stick with the recommended screen as proven to work. However if you already have the screen and want to rework the code it could be worth trying

Check you have recommended version of IDE. Load the set time sketch and see if you can set time on the rtc. Message me if still having issues

Hey Ive just put the link in for this. Let me know if you need any assistance

Hi check the time library has loaded correctly

Thanks was ms 3d builder. In hindsight Id use a better 3d design tool to get better definition in the stl.

Thanks glad you like. We are using in the evening with one of our dogs out of necessity because of how dark it is now the days are shorter heading into winter. It obviously amuses motorists because many slow down to have a closer look.

It looks like the timelibrary has not loaded correctly in the Arduino IDE.Reload as per instructions and let me know how you get on.

Ok it sounds like the Time library has not loaded into the Arduino IDE correctly. Follow the instructions on line to ensure the library is loaded correctly. You should be able to see this in the IDE menus to confirm it has loaded. Also once loaded try restarting the IDE application before attempting to upload to the Arduino.Let me know if you are still having issues

It looks like the screen driver libraries UTFT are not loaded correctly. Make sure they are downloaded and added to your IDE. You can check by looking in the library menu within the IDE. The IDE also needs to be restarted after adding a library (older versions anyway) so if not already tried restart the IDE application.

Try just uploading the code to the Arduino Mega without anything connected to it. I suspect you have the IDE configured for the incorrect board, a library issue or cable connectivity issue. If problems persist message me with the code errors and I will attempt to help diagnose\.

The most effective way I found was to use a Darlington configuration for the BC548 RXR circuit. Coil size and voltage to coils seem to have an overall improving effect. Let me know how you get on. I tried various coil configs as seen in Step 8.

Hey no problems.1. Dimmer Circuit:In step 3 the very last image has a comment attached to it. The zener diode and resistor are soldered directly to pin 19 of the screen as shown in the previous two pictures.The joints are insulated with heat shrink and connected via hookup wire to the Arduino, Earth and the Vcc line.2. USB power cable connections:I soldered the USB cable to the back of the Arduino Mega Board directly under the USB connector solder side of the board.On the circuit diagram, you will see a diagram showing the orientation of the wiring for the USB connections to the Arduino Board.Let me know if you need further assistance.

Hey very good point raised. I havent grounded the other three comparator inputs so its probably worth doing. I have preserved a test jig for the unit as Im developing the next iteration so I will test with and without and see if there is any material difference in stability.

Hey, no problems. This instructable is relevant to individuals who have a 3D printer with manual leveling controls that are adjusted by hand. e.g like the Creality Ender 3My experience is if the bed is not level by more than half a layer then there will be bed adhesion and print quality issues. It is not mandatory to have a bed leveling tool/device as there is normally a stock procedure you follow to do so.The objective of this instructable is to make this process less onerous.

Also forgot to add one advantage is there is no physical contact required with the bed so this bed can be moving at any speed.

Nice, let me know how you get on !!

Yes it can be used as that is what my Ender 3 prints on

Nice one, let me know if you have any questions.

Hi thanks for the question. Im just in the process of trying to accurately measure the incremental change detected for each LED. I’ll post here once I have. What I would say is that I am using with an Ender 3 and it shifts after about 75% turn of a bed nut turn in the cornersof the bed. When you combine this with a test print provided it significantly speeds up the process of leveling om scratch.

Hi thanks for the questions1. Yes the formers were printed and are in the master STL. I have had this feedback so I think its because the formers are on the other side of the print obscured from vision by the main body. Ive put a separate STL file up for the formers for this reason.2. Yes the inner coil is TX this is noted on the circuit diagram.3. Initially number of coils was trial and error combined with capacitance value. The performance changed when assembked due to stray capacitance. So at this stage I settled on the current number of turns and cap values for consistency. The biggest challenge was getting the PulseIn function to work reliably detcting the pulse as timi is critical. Another reason for publishing the values.

Hi thanks for the feedback. I have mentioned in the instructable it needs to be a metal bed. Some glass beds have metal underneath like the Ender 3 I use.

Hey good question Im not sure I have one with and one without. The larger printers tend to have a Hot Bed which means they tend to have a metal deck for better adhesion purposes. Size also becomes more of a factor for leveling. What I would say is the Ender 3 community is quite larger for Makers and it seems to be a good entry level low cost printer for beginners.

Yes I agree I wrestled with the idea of producing an internal rechargeable lipo battery or power by printer. I think the next version could do both. I'd also like to shrink the size and put a universal mounting bracket in it so it could go on other models. Thanks for the feedback.

Thanks. It took a while to work out the bugs but its really stable.

Hi, you can modfy to use without a screen and one coil. I am working on arduino nano single coil version now so will publish in the next few weeks. It is for a specific application however the circuit could be modified to suit.1. Coils can be adjusted to suit2. The original design was an NPN however in recent circuits Ive used a FET as they are more efficient3. the 1M resistor provide forward Bias for the NPN receive transistor and gain control.4. This is dependent on size of object

HiWhat version of Arduino IDE are you using?

These 3 lines indicate that these libraries are not loaded.Retro_DK_Clock_V3.ino:5:19: warning: UTFT.h: No such file or directoryRetro_DK_Clock_V3.ino:6:21: warning: URTouch.h: No such file or directoryRetro_DK_Clock_V3.ino:8:20: warning: Time.h: No such file or directoryThese library files need to be loaded into the Arduino IDE before compiling. See this link for the procedure https://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/Libraries

Hi, am happy to provide gaphics files if you want to do a conversion. Just message me directly with your email.

Great news. Now try changing the screen type in the code as this probably the final issue. See the step 4 number 4 above

Nice work. I haven't seen this before so will mention in main text.

Hey this is a common problem Ive had when loading libraries. it looks like the libraries are not loading correctly into the Arduino IDE. Firstly try this, exit the IDE then restart the IDE and try load again. Sometimes this is an issue. If still not working manually add the libraries. If they are correctly installed you can view them in the IDE libraries menu. Once done ensure you exit the IDE then restart the IDE and try load again. Let me know if this helps.

Hey if still having issues can you please message me the error messages you are getting

HiCheck out Step 4 in the Instructable the main issues Ive seen are 1. Make sure you have the correct version of the Arduino IDE installed on your computer Step 4.,12. Make sure the libraries are loading Step 4.23. Make sure the Graphics files are loading Step 4.5If this does not work message me the error codes so I can help further !!

Hi, these are individual libraries that you need to load into the Arduino IDE before loading the code into the Arduino Board. Make sure you use the version IDE outlined and follow the steps to load the library. If you get stuck feel free to message me.

Hi, these are individual libraries that you need to load into the Arduino IDE before loading the code into the Arduino Board. Make sure you use the version IDE outlined and follow the steps to load the library. If you get stuck feel free to message me.

Thanks!!

Nice work

HiCheck that the Real Time Clock Board is installed correctly and that the time library is installed. Also note the version of IDE I have used in the notes.

Hi the sw is designed for this specific size touch screen.

Very cool nice work. Great ideas. Ive experimented with hot glue as a medium for LED diffusion on items which works well.

Cool well done. Please share Pic!!

Nice Work I will add these to the instructable if thats ok and others can use.

Nice work

Awesome clock. Nice work.

hiIt looks like the LCD display libraries have not been loaded into the IDE.Try downloading and installing them again and let me know how you get on.

hiYes I did try this and there was not a noticeable improvement. I am experimenting with other coil designs to try and improve sensitivity.Will keep you posted.

No probs glad you like it.

I have had a number of questions about the operation of the LM339 so I thought I would give a more clear explanation.The LM339 operates solely as a voltage comparator, comparing the differential voltage between the positive and negative pins and outputting a logic low or high impedance (logic high with pullup) based on the input differential polarity.In this circuit, the positive input of the comparator is connected to the Vcc line and a pull-up resistor to Vcc is applied to the comparator output. In this configuration, in practice, the output voltage of the comparator stays high, until the input voltage on the negative input exceeds 3.5vThe operation can be explained from the LM339 Data Sheet which outlines the “input voltage range” being between 0 V to Vsup-1.5 VWhen both ...

I have had a number of questions about the operation of the LM339 so I thought I would give a more clear explanation.The LM339 operates solely as a voltage comparator, comparing the differential voltage between the positive and negative pins and outputting a logic low or high impedance (logic high with pullup) based on the input differential polarity.In this circuit, the positive input of the comparator is connected to the Vcc line and a pull-up resistor to Vcc is applied to the comparator output. In this configuration, in practice, the output voltage of the comparator stays high, until the input voltage on the negative input exceeds 3.5vThe operation can be explained from the LM339 Data Sheet which outlines the “input voltage range” being between 0 V to Vsup-1.5 VWhen both IN– and IN+ are both within the common-mode range, if IN– is lower than IN+ and the offset voltage, the output is high impedance and the output transistor is not conductingWhen IN– is higher than common mode and IN+ is within common mode, the output is low and the output transistor is sinking current.Link to Data Sheet and explanation belowhttp://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm2901.pdf

If you have connected the LDR there could be an issue with it blanking the backlight. 1. Ensure the Zener Diode polarity is correct. Then end without the band is the anode which should be connected to earth.2. The LDR circuit could be incorrect. Try connecting Pin A7 to VCC and see if there is any change in the screen activity.Let me know how you get on.Techkiwigadgets

hi The code shold load and display the background with no RTC or sound board connected. It sounds like it could be a backlight issue. Can you direct mestage me photo of physical setup and I will try to assist.

Thanks glad you like