TechKiwiGadgets

Hey no problems.1. Dimmer Circuit:In step 3 the very last image has a comment attached to it. The zener diode and resistor are soldered directly to pin 19 of the screen as shown in the previous two pictures.The joints are insulated with heat shrink and connected via hookup wire to the Arduino, Earth and the Vcc line.2. USB power cable connections:I soldered the USB cable to the back of the Arduino Mega Board directly under the USB connector solder side of the board.On the circuit diagram, you will see a diagram showing the orientation of the wiring for the USB connections to the Arduino Board.Let me know if you need further assistance.

Hey very good point raised. I havent grounded the other three comparator inputs so its probably worth doing. I have preserved a test jig for the unit as Im developing the next iteration so I will test with and without and see if there is any material difference in stability.

Hey, no problems. This instructable is relevant to individuals who have a 3D printer with manual leveling controls that are adjusted by hand. e.g like the Creality Ender 3My experience is if the bed is not level by more than half a layer then there will be bed adhesion and print quality issues. It is not mandatory to have a bed leveling tool/device as there is normally a stock procedure you follow to do so.The objective of this instructable is to make this process less onerous.

Also forgot to add one advantage is there is no physical contact required with the bed so this bed can be moving at any speed.

Nice, let me know how you get on !!

Yes it can be used as that is what my Ender 3 prints on

Nice one, let me know if you have any questions.

Hi thanks for the question. Im just in the process of trying to accurately measure the incremental change detected for each LED. I’ll post here once I have. What I would say is that I am using with an Ender 3 and it shifts after about 75% turn of a bed nut turn in the cornersof the bed. When you combine this with a test print provided it significantly speeds up the process of leveling om scratch.

Hi thanks for the questions1. Yes the formers were printed and are in the master STL. I have had this feedback so I think its because the formers are on the other side of the print obscured from vision by the main body. Ive put a separate STL file up for the formers for this reason.2. Yes the inner coil is TX this is noted on the circuit diagram.3. Initially number of coils was trial and error combined with capacitance value. The performance changed when assembked due to stray capacitance. So at this stage I settled on the current number of turns and cap values for consistency. The biggest challenge was getting the PulseIn function to work reliably detcting the pulse as timi is critical. Another reason for publishing the values.

Hi thanks for the feedback. I have mentioned in the instructable it needs to be a metal bed. Some glass beds have metal underneath like the Ender 3 I use.

Hey good question Im not sure I have one with and one without. The larger printers tend to have a Hot Bed which means they tend to have a metal deck for better adhesion purposes. Size also becomes more of a factor for leveling. What I would say is the Ender 3 community is quite larger for Makers and it seems to be a good entry level low cost printer for beginners.

Yes I agree I wrestled with the idea of producing an internal rechargeable lipo battery or power by printer. I think the next version could do both. I'd also like to shrink the size and put a universal mounting bracket in it so it could go on other models. Thanks for the feedback.

Thanks. It took a while to work out the bugs but its really stable.

Hi, you can modfy to use without a screen and one coil. I am working on arduino nano single coil version now so will publish in the next few weeks. It is for a specific application however the circuit could be modified to suit.1. Coils can be adjusted to suit2. The original design was an NPN however in recent circuits Ive used a FET as they are more efficient3. the 1M resistor provide forward Bias for the NPN receive transistor and gain control.4. This is dependent on size of object

HiWhat version of Arduino IDE are you using?

These 3 lines indicate that these libraries are not loaded.Retro_DK_Clock_V3.ino:5:19: warning: UTFT.h: No such file or directoryRetro_DK_Clock_V3.ino:6:21: warning: URTouch.h: No such file or directoryRetro_DK_Clock_V3.ino:8:20: warning: Time.h: No such file or directoryThese library files need to be loaded into the Arduino IDE before compiling. See this link for the procedure https://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/Libraries

Hi, am happy to provide gaphics files if you want to do a conversion. Just message me directly with your email.

Great news. Now try changing the screen type in the code as this probably the final issue. See the step 4 number 4 above

Nice work. I haven't seen this before so will mention in main text.

Hey this is a common problem Ive had when loading libraries. it looks like the libraries are not loading correctly into the Arduino IDE. Firstly try this, exit the IDE then restart the IDE and try load again. Sometimes this is an issue. If still not working manually add the libraries. If they are correctly installed you can view them in the IDE libraries menu. Once done ensure you exit the IDE then restart the IDE and try load again. Let me know if this helps.

Hey if still having issues can you please message me the error messages you are getting

HiCheck out Step 4 in the Instructable the main issues Ive seen are 1. Make sure you have the correct version of the Arduino IDE installed on your computer Step 4.,12. Make sure the libraries are loading Step 4.23. Make sure the Graphics files are loading Step 4.5If this does not work message me the error codes so I can help further !!

Hi, these are individual libraries that you need to load into the Arduino IDE before loading the code into the Arduino Board. Make sure you use the version IDE outlined and follow the steps to load the library. If you get stuck feel free to message me.

Hi, these are individual libraries that you need to load into the Arduino IDE before loading the code into the Arduino Board. Make sure you use the version IDE outlined and follow the steps to load the library. If you get stuck feel free to message me.

Thanks!!

Nice work

HiCheck that the Real Time Clock Board is installed correctly and that the time library is installed. Also note the version of IDE I have used in the notes.

Hi the sw is designed for this specific size touch screen.

Very cool nice work. Great ideas. Ive experimented with hot glue as a medium for LED diffusion on items which works well.

Cool well done. Please share Pic!!

Nice Work I will add these to the instructable if thats ok and others can use.

Nice work

Awesome clock. Nice work.

hiIt looks like the LCD display libraries have not been loaded into the IDE.Try downloading and installing them again and let me know how you get on.

hiYes I did try this and there was not a noticeable improvement. I am experimenting with other coil designs to try and improve sensitivity.Will keep you posted.

No probs glad you like it.

I have had a number of questions about the operation of the LM339 so I thought I would give a more clear explanation.The LM339 operates solely as a voltage comparator, comparing the differential voltage between the positive and negative pins and outputting a logic low or high impedance (logic high with pullup) based on the input differential polarity.In this circuit, the positive input of the comparator is connected to the Vcc line and a pull-up resistor to Vcc is applied to the comparator output. In this configuration, in practice, the output voltage of the comparator stays high, until the input voltage on the negative input exceeds 3.5vThe operation can be explained from the LM339 Data Sheet which outlines the “input voltage range” being between 0 V to Vsup-1.5 VWhen both ...

I have had a number of questions about the operation of the LM339 so I thought I would give a more clear explanation.The LM339 operates solely as a voltage comparator, comparing the differential voltage between the positive and negative pins and outputting a logic low or high impedance (logic high with pullup) based on the input differential polarity.In this circuit, the positive input of the comparator is connected to the Vcc line and a pull-up resistor to Vcc is applied to the comparator output. In this configuration, in practice, the output voltage of the comparator stays high, until the input voltage on the negative input exceeds 3.5vThe operation can be explained from the LM339 Data Sheet which outlines the “input voltage range” being between 0 V to Vsup-1.5 VWhen both IN– and IN+ are both within the common-mode range, if IN– is lower than IN+ and the offset voltage, the output is high impedance and the output transistor is not conductingWhen IN– is higher than common mode and IN+ is within common mode, the output is low and the output transistor is sinking current.Link to Data Sheet and explanation belowhttp://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm2901.pdf

If you have connected the LDR there could be an issue with it blanking the backlight. 1. Ensure the Zener Diode polarity is correct. Then end without the band is the anode which should be connected to earth.2. The LDR circuit could be incorrect. Try connecting Pin A7 to VCC and see if there is any change in the screen activity.Let me know how you get on.Techkiwigadgets

hi The code shold load and display the background with no RTC or sound board connected. It sounds like it could be a backlight issue. Can you direct mestage me photo of physical setup and I will try to assist.

Thanks glad you like

Yes thanks good idea

Hi, try reversing the polarity of either the TX or RX coil to see if this fixes the problem. If not, place a 150pf capacitor across the TX coil and a 150pf capacitor across the RX coil as this helps in many cases. Message me if there are further issues.

Thanks, glad you like :)

Very cool well done

Great thank you. I'm glad you like.

Thanks for the feedback. Am glad you like.

Yes I did experiment with different options. This config seems to work well. Have a look at the ocilliscope traces in the Build and Test step to have a closer look at the circuit behaviour.

Hey my apologies the link is now fixed. Ali Express is a place I am ordering from for these units now.See section 4.4 for commentary on the three different screen types that are typically available and how to identify and configure for variations.Let me know if you need any other help

Hi the LM339 +Vcc pin should be connected to the 5v regulated power supply on the Arduino. Try this and let me know how you get on.

The pcounterA value should be much higher 200 to 800 at least. My advice is to focus on one channel. Try reversing the polarity of one of the coils as this often is the problem as the pulseIn function needs to have a clean leading edge to trigger the timing process. Ensure your breadboard connections to the coil are short and well grounded. If this does not work direct message me with a link to some photos of your setup and I will try to assist. Im just building a second unit so your timing is fortuitous as I can provide some test measurements.

HiThe instructions cover most of these points.The Mega is connected via a screen sheildMessage me directly on any questions I will try to help.

I had problems sourcing screens locally so now use Ali Express. Here is an example supplier here https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-3-2-...

I haven't tried either because I the Mega has more memory and drives the screen through a parallel interface which means the graphics are fast.My recommendation would be to stuck with the current design as I wouldnt be able to assist if you ran into any issues.

HiYou need a USB-A cable which ideally is 1.5 to 2.0 m long so the clock can be on a bedside table and the wire is long enough to comfortably reach the USB charger plugged in a wall.A good example is here https://www.pbtech.co.nz/product/CABDNX6001/Dynami...

HiYou need a USB-A cable which ideally is 1.5 to 2.0 m long so the clock can be on a bedside table and the wire is long enough to comfortably reach the USB charger plugged in a wall.A good example is here https://www.pbtech.co.nz/product/CABDNX6001/Dynami...

HiThe algorithm I used approximates the direction and could be modified to accomodate the servo direction.I would also suggest adding a low pass filter in the code to remove sudden variations so you get a smooth transtion to the direction of source noise.Message me with a link to your code if you need any assistance.

HiIn theory as a general rule the size of coil, higher the current and number of turns the greater the depth. However in this circuit I tried a few options and the current circuit parameters gave the best performance.The last section of the instructable discusses various coil options that may be worth pursuing.I would recommend replacing the four TX BC548 transistors for a 2N7000 FET as outlined in my instructable (Pin-pointer Metal Detector) as this provided some improved sensitivity.Otherwise its a case of trial and error using a bread board before your final build.Message me if you need any help!

Looks awesome nice work. I really like the cases and use of color.

If you connect shield and display then load code you should at leaSt get the main menu displaying.

Thanks

Hi, sure thing. The power bank I'm using cannot charge and deliver power to the circuit simultaneously, however, I have noticed that if you start the LED Gyro Sphere using the power switch then insert the USB cable into a PC the Powerbank either accommodates this or switches off the battery and supplies directly from the PC USB cable. I will update the instructable circuit with a pin out diagram. Hope this helps.

Thanks, am glad you like. Hopefully will have new effects published in the next 48 hours.

Hi, you can load the code at any time and test. There are Arduino Training Tutorials on Instructables that walk you through setting up the IDE software and connectivity to the Arduino. If you are still having issues message me and I will help out. :)

Wow that font looks great. Id like to link your design to the instructable if youre ok with this so others can use similar hardware. Thanks for the feedback on coding and result. Im about to release a new instructable so check it out in next 12 hours and vote please!!