TechKiwiGadgets

There are two modes. Auto and Manual. Auto detects the type of cable based on pin activity. Manual enables you to select cable types to explore cable configuration at one end

Hi, these are to accommodate different screen manufacturers. Some use different drivers although they physically look the same.

Hi can u email me a picture of the construction of the clock from a few angles and I will see if I can identify any issues. TechKiwiGadgets@gmail.com

Hi, try loading the screen calibration sketch to calibrate the touch screen first. Then reload the clock code and you should be able to use the menu on the touch screen

OK two things to try. Firstly I wonder if the screen is the problem. I have had a 5% failure rate on screens when purchasing so if possible try a new screen. Secondly, I have just put up the legacy code which you could try. If calibration does not work then likely a wiring or screen fault. The older version of code does not include wifi and timezone setup which is done through modifying 3 lines of code by the user

Hi, can u confirm the version of calibration code you are using as I updated this at the same time I released the new set time zone feature. Please check both clock and calibration code is the latest from instructable link.

ESP32 Dev Kit 1Step 6 of the instructable has instructions and links on how to program using the Arduino IDE.

The RTC file is stored in a ZIP file in Step 4 of the instructable so this version should work

Hi, the time library has been renamed so to timelib.h which was a primary cause of a lot of issues. If you try renaming and let me know if that resolves. Am happy to help

Nice work 👏 👌

Wow impressive work well done. I was hoping there would be further development done in the code to take advantage of the ESP capabilities!!

No probs will email you

Hi, nice find thanks. Will have a look at how to use. Would be very convenient to set time remotely which was any I used an ESP32 to incorporate Bluetooth in the future.

Nice one looking forward to hearing how it goes. Im doing some code tweaks over the next few days to improve ease of use. Im about to order another batch for family and friends in time Christmas as well :)

Thanks

Thanks

Thanks I think its corrected now. The PDF circuit diagram should now show an LDR and SPKR connection only. The speaker and LDR are added via a header pin or just soldered directly to the PCB.

Well done. Would love to see the images of the final product. So drop me an email at techkiwigadgets@gmail.com and I'll post them for you on the instructable

Hi, yes there is a new callibration sketch and instructions in the instructable so let me know if there are any issues.

Yes on the PAM8403 pin 5 is connected to D35 to mute the amplifier when sound is not being played. You need to carefully desolder pin 5 on the PAM8403 and then connect a wire to D35. I broke two PAM8403 units attempting to do this so make sure you have a couple spare in case.

Yes on the PAM8403 pin 5 is connected to D35 to mute the amplifier when sound is not being played. You need to carefully desolder pin 5 on the PAM8403 and then connect a wire to D35. I broke two PAM8403 units attempting to do this so make sure you have a couple spare in case.

Yes on the PAM8403 pin 5 is connected to D35 to mute the amplifier when sound is not being played. You need to carefully desolder pin 5 on the PAM8403 and then connect a wire to D35. I broke two PAM8403 units attempting to do this so make sure you have a couple spare in case.

Hi, is the noise only when sound plays or all the time. There circuit blanks audio output when sound not played. Alternatively try a different power supply and USB cable as this can cause noise. Let me know how you get on

This is very cool well done. Will definitely be adding to my list of things to build :)

Nice work. You could put it up as an Instructable!!

Very cool nice work

Wow, love the color scheme. Excellent work. I'll try out your code changes when Im back from holiday :) Thanks for posting the photo. Looks great.

Hi, download the latest Code and Library files from the link provided in zip files. (I did just notice I had mistakenly left some old files in the directory so might have created confusion). Expand out the files. Using the IDE, open the Calibration sketch and upload it to the ESP32. Once successfully running, use the IDE to open the Pacman Clock sketch and edit the file starting at line 181. You will see the calibration variables in the code there. Follow the instructions and let me know how you get on. ps I am currently working on a calibration subroutine to make it easier to do this without having to load a separate sketch so will hopefully have this done in the next 4 weeks

Nice work looks great!!

Nice work!! Am developing those features for future releases :)

Oh great. Good to know. Im using DOIT so wouldnt have picked that up well done.

Ok good news. I included the Library files in a zip folder for this reason as Ive been caught out on other projects where you end up one version away from success. Also Ive noticed a wide variation of touch screen manufactures so my plan is to update code with a calllibration routine so users can callibrate and store the values in NVRAM.

Hi is this resolved?

Hi I'm interested to see this resolved. I'm not seeing this problem however I have found different screen manufacturers devices behave differently. One thing worth trying is to reorder the library include statements as I have found in unrelated projects this has resolved strange inconsistent behaviour. Let me know how this goes.

Good to hear well done!!

Not sure of the question here. However if you mean why "Parallel vs Serial" the answer is the speed required for drawing animated graphics over serial is much slower.

Hi unfortunately the code only works with screens with a screen resolution of 320 x 240. The ILI9488 has a resolution of 320x480.

Load the calibration prg (sketch) and touch each letter on the screen for a few seconds and then transfer the X and Y values in RED into the main prg (sketch). Once you have done this save the main prg and upload to the ESP32. This is very manual however should only need to be done once.

Thanks glad you like !!!

Ok I just tried IDE version 1.8.16 and it seemed to load fine. It could be hidden files from previously installed libraries and can in some cases be the order they are installed. I have ane example right now of this in another project that only got resolved by a clean install. I have found this before. If not already done try moving the Arduino files and libraries to a temporary subdirectory and perform a completely new installation of the IDE and see how it goes.

No problem at all. Am keen to make sure you resolve so message me directly if you still have issues. DJ

Hi it looks like the libraries in the Arduino IDE have a problem. Try going into the Arduino Libraries folder on your Mac or PC and backing this up to another location (in case you need them back). Then delete all of the Libraries folders. Copy the zip file with all of the libraries from the instructable and expand them out into the Arduino Libraries folder. Then try and recompile the Calibration or the Main Sketch and it should load. Let me know how you get on. DJ

Thats very strange. I just checked and Im using IDE version 1.8.13 maybe its a change in IDE version

Ok can you please check the ESP settings as per the screengrab below. Then try loading the program "Blink" from the basic examples library and let me know if that compiles, loads and the light on your ESP32 flashes.

Hi, can you please download the Callibration sketch that I provided and step through the callibration procedure and it should solve the problem. Ive noticed that most screens need this done to get the touch screen working reliably. Let me know how you get on.

Nice work well done!!

Yes was just about to answer on this but was beaten to it by Gerald. Yes the resolution I worked to in the design was 230x320 so unfortunately the graphics would need to be reworked.

Sure thing link in parts list now. Yes the ILI9341 UNO is the specific LCD unit you need. Ive tried others and there don't seem to be drivers for them available in the library.

Yes select all three if you want the full kitset :)

Hi, I still have my original Pacman Clock in my workshop :) Yes good feedback, Im working on a dimming solution for the next iteration of the shield. I was hoping to find a simple method without having to cut tracks or pins however ran out of time so will be working on this in future releases

Thanks glad you like :)

Hello, thanks for the feedback. The diameter of the Transmit Coils needs to be 7cm and the Receive Coils 4cm. Each coil has 40 turns of copper wire. I progressively tested with different capacitor values to get the optimal performance. The length and type of shielded cable has a big impact as well so its best to test with all of this in place before final assembly. Hope this helps.

Yes for passive HDMI I will look at including that in the next batch. Thanks for the feedback.

Yes same here, was one of the inspirations for this project :)

Yes a new version for ESP32 is being released in the next 3 weeks!!!

I'll put a link in the parts description to the model I have successfully used. Ill also put a pdf of the schematic in the instructable.

Hi, thanks for raising this as it will be a problem for others. On closer inspection, I think the 1651 screen from Adafruit is backward compatible so it could be the identifier code is wrong. So I have loaded another version labeled 9351 so can you please check if that works ok and let me know. Unfortunately I don't have a 1651 to test however based on the fact you have it working with a Mega it should be easy to solve.

Hi, they are M3 Allen Button Head Screws which can be removed with a 2mm Allen Key. You can use a Torx screwdriver or as a last resort a flat head screwdriver to get out as they should not be tight. I think next time I use Philips I just use these as they look cool and are common in 3d printing mechanisms. Email me if you have any issues and good luck with the assembly. Doug (techkiwigadgets@gmail.com)

No problems. Message me if you have any more questions on my instructables and Im happy t help.

Note: Due to popular request a new option for a deeper base unit to accommodate batteries has been added and a new PCB rim added to make the PCB sit more snuggly in case.

Note: Due to popular request a new option for a deeper base unit to accommodate batteries has been added and a new PCB rim added to make the PCB sit more snuggly in case.

Note: Due to popular request a new option for a deeper base unit to accommodate batteries has been added and a new PCB rim added to make the PCB sit more snuggly in case. See thingiverse link in instructable

Hi, message me directly with your cable and plug type and will see if I can help. Its not difficult to add additional ports to the unit however does require additional code routines to be added.

Message me directly ans I can arrange to share a revised stl or 3d file

It depends on where in the case. Let me know the full dimensions of the battery and I will check. It would be easy enough to add another 3-5mm depth to the case if you want by modifying the STL. Let me know and I can put another STL on Thingiverse

Hi, I have reloaded a fresh IDE on my Mac and tested with two screens and got a white screen, I have found there are a very specific set of libraries required to get the screen working with the Mega. I have updated the instructions and provided a ZIP file of all libraries so can I suggest you follow those closely. This involves removing existing libraries and loading the new ones. I remember now back in V120 of the code changing the libraries to accommodate an Arduino Due and I suspect this was the cause, am now up to V220 so it was a while ago :) . Let me know if this works

Nice work :)

Thanks am glad you like

Ok understood. I have 2 different displays from different manufacturers which is why I produced two sketches labeled "Legacy" and "IL". Let me know if this helps.

Thanks for the feedback :)

Hi, please check that the correct libraries are loaded as above as they are specific to getting this screen working with the Mega. If it continues to be a problem it might be the controller type in the screen (it's hard to tell even with screens side by side) and I have another code base I will post for you to use. let me know how you get on.

Hi, I have now uploaded a second version of the code that may address the white screen problem. If the problem still exists please try the second sketch labeled as "Touch_Screen_Cable_Tracer_InstructablesV1_Legacy_Mega"

Good question. Yes I have a Lion battery I placed comfortably under the screen on top of the PCB with dimensions of 48x42x8 mm. This combined with a USB charging board and switch would be an easy addition. I personally use on the bench for testing so didnt include this option.

Yes good point I think your are right about standard HDMI cables not having chips. I remember now I was thinking of HDMI to USB and disassembled one to find a PCB in the plug.

Thanks appreciate the feedback :)