TechKiwiGadgets

RIP little puppy. This instructable is dedicated to you.

Awesome work well done!!

Nice work impressive job!! Looks awesome :)

Hello, the file Eco_Friendly_Metal_Detector_V8.ino is the latest version and should compile with the Arduino Mega.Check you have UTFT.h and URtouch.h libraries loaded correctly in the Arduino IDE and the correct board loaded.If you continue to have problems message me directly with your email address and I will get in touch so you can send some screenshots of the error messages

Hi can you please send me a photo of your circuit and also a video of the startup sequence. DM me a link to the files and I can help troubleshooting.

Hi, I cant seem to read the file you have sent. can you resend the error message either a photo or cut and paste of the errors

HiI suspect it could be a newer version of the IDE and library files causing the issue.Try loading an earlier version of the IDE outlined in the instructable. I will do a test on latest IDE this week to see if I can resolve.

Hey no probs. I used shipping foam that the TFT screen was shipped with and cut to the size of the boards. This has hot glue on both sides to ensure its kept in place. The important thing is to ensure that the PCB tracks are well insulated and do not touch the each other. Use plenty of hot glue. See this image and let me know if you need anymore help

Good idea

Yes that would just require hunting for the right pvc tube and fittings. I made another unit with a 1m length PVC and added a handle and bezel at the end of the pvc tube. Great for poking into ceilings to see wiring.

Message me a picture of the problem and I will check out. I did put a screen glare surround but it should be bright enough. There are some things in the code that can be adjusted.

Nice work. I like the lens. I used 2 x 3W because I didn't need a heat sink and lower voltage.

Hi, the complication I have is I have given the unit to my parents as a gift :)So I cant test your request to change the code. However I will make another suggestion once I have worked through the code again. It may take a few days

I just reloaded the code. Not sure what caused that. Try now.

Hi1. The variable "dimmer" has a numerical value between 20 and 100 sets the brightness. If you set this to a predetermined value by inserting this in row 176 of the codeDimmer = 50; // Manually set brightness with Dimmer variable2. Try adding the code to line 877itis(); // Display It IsLet me know how you get on

Revised LED Mount STL file now up on Thingiverse!!

Ahh yes I remember now, my apologies. After adding some reinforcing to the STL I had to snip some of the plastic I included in the latest version. Have a closer look at this picture below and see the manual modifications to the print. I intended on modifying the design to accommodate this however didn't complete. I will mention in the text above an updated print for this soon. I suggest you trim the corners off with a pair of snippers and around the supports manually.

That's weird let me double check tonight and come back to you

Hi, the most common problem in this case is a bad connection in the LED array. This happened to me. Check the connections at led 61 in particular the led orientation

The LED control would be straight forward I haven't tried the RTC with esp boards yet

Actually you could pull the time from the internet from an ESP so wouldn't need a RTC

Nice work, has a great finish!! I used a Glass bed and Gluestick however you got a better finish

Hi the finished clock dimensions are approx 190mm X 190mm x 50mm

Just double checked and got 13.5 hours

Hi I think my print was less than 12 hours on an Ender 3. It does not require a high quality finish being interior to the clock so you can up the speed to 60mms and use a draft print quality to speed things up.

The LDR is approx 8K to 20K. I have provided a link for this part. Yes they are WS2812B RGB White for that link. Apologies this was a typo corrected now.

Yep, I used an emboss feature in Windows 3D Builder to cut the text into 4mm thick horizontal strips. Then I put a 0.8mm layer over the front panel. You can open the STL provided and take thickness measurements. PS. LDR link now in parts list

Excluding the battery all parts were about 10USD sourced online The lipo battery is best sourced locally due to high freight costs due to new shipping safety regulations. That locally for me was another 10USD. Hope that helps.

Hi thanks yes you are correct I used the wrong link. I am uploading actual supplier I used.

Thanks for pointing this out. My mistake from a test LED I used. Ive updated the link. The cost was approx 9USD for 100 LEDs here. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10-1000pcs-4-Pin-WS2812B-WS2812-LED-Chip-Heatsink-5V-5050-RGB-WS2811-IC-Built-in/32634454437.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dvZqP8rAnd these are the LEDs I used for this project.

First, check that the file is valid by opening it with notepad or another text editor - a .ino file is just text. Arduino also requires that each .ino file is in a folder with the same name so check you have it stored in a subdirectory with the same name. Let me know how you get on. There is a V4 now available. I have tested on multiple nanos from the downloaded file so the integrity of the file seems ok. Also check you have the latest IDE version.

Hi, I just put a V3 up as I had some problems loading after downloading. Let me know the error message if it persists. I also had to restart the IDE application to ensure the code would load after the first error.

I just put V2 up. Let me know if problem persists.

I've never tried. It may well however there may be performance issues drawing graphics because I think this uses serial communication. The touch and tftf drivers would need to be checked for compatibility with the code. My advice is if you are going to make the unit stick with the recommended screen as proven to work. However if you already have the screen and want to rework the code it could be worth trying

If you haven't gotten these let me know and I'll create new files

Check you have recommended version of IDE. Load the set time sketch and see if you can set time on the rtc. Message me if still having issues

Hey Ive just put the link in for this. Let me know if you need any assistance

Hi check the time library has loaded correctly

Thanks was ms 3d builder. In hindsight Id use a better 3d design tool to get better definition in the stl.

Thanks glad you like. We are using in the evening with one of our dogs out of necessity because of how dark it is now the days are shorter heading into winter. It obviously amuses motorists because many slow down to have a closer look.

It looks like the timelibrary has not loaded correctly in the Arduino IDE.Reload as per instructions and let me know how you get on.

Ok it sounds like the Time library has not loaded into the Arduino IDE correctly. Follow the instructions on line to ensure the library is loaded correctly. You should be able to see this in the IDE menus to confirm it has loaded. Also once loaded try restarting the IDE application before attempting to upload to the Arduino.Let me know if you are still having issues

It looks like the screen driver libraries UTFT are not loaded correctly. Make sure they are downloaded and added to your IDE. You can check by looking in the library menu within the IDE. The IDE also needs to be restarted after adding a library (older versions anyway) so if not already tried restart the IDE application.

Try just uploading the code to the Arduino Mega without anything connected to it. I suspect you have the IDE configured for the incorrect board, a library issue or cable connectivity issue. If problems persist message me with the code errors and I will attempt to help diagnose\.

The most effective way I found was to use a Darlington configuration for the BC548 RXR circuit. Coil size and voltage to coils seem to have an overall improving effect. Let me know how you get on. I tried various coil configs as seen in Step 8.

Hey no problems.1. Dimmer Circuit:In step 3 the very last image has a comment attached to it. The zener diode and resistor are soldered directly to pin 19 of the screen as shown in the previous two pictures.The joints are insulated with heat shrink and connected via hookup wire to the Arduino, Earth and the Vcc line.2. USB power cable connections:I soldered the USB cable to the back of the Arduino Mega Board directly under the USB connector solder side of the board.On the circuit diagram, you will see a diagram showing the orientation of the wiring for the USB connections to the Arduino Board.Let me know if you need further assistance.

Hey very good point raised. I havent grounded the other three comparator inputs so its probably worth doing. I have preserved a test jig for the unit as Im developing the next iteration so I will test with and without and see if there is any material difference in stability.

Hey, no problems. This instructable is relevant to individuals who have a 3D printer with manual leveling controls that are adjusted by hand. e.g like the Creality Ender 3My experience is if the bed is not level by more than half a layer then there will be bed adhesion and print quality issues. It is not mandatory to have a bed leveling tool/device as there is normally a stock procedure you follow to do so.The objective of this instructable is to make this process less onerous.

Also forgot to add one advantage is there is no physical contact required with the bed so this bed can be moving at any speed.

Yes it can be used as that is what my Ender 3 prints on

Nice, let me know how you get on !!

Nice one, let me know if you have any questions.

Hi thanks for the question. Im just in the process of trying to accurately measure the incremental change detected for each LED. I’ll post here once I have. What I would say is that I am using with an Ender 3 and it shifts after about 75% turn of a bed nut turn in the cornersof the bed. When you combine this with a test print provided it significantly speeds up the process of leveling om scratch.

Hi thanks for the feedback. I have mentioned in the instructable it needs to be a metal bed. Some glass beds have metal underneath like the Ender 3 I use.

Hi, thanks for the feedback. Im using an Ender 3 with a glass bed over the top of the metal bed. The unit is easy to install and remove as it pushes onto the stock head housing so is only intened on being in place until leveling achieved.

Hi Im just in the process of trying to accurately measure the incremental change detected for each LED. I’ll post here once I have. What I would say is that I am using with an Ender 3 and it shifts after about 75% turn of a bed nut turn in the cornersof the bed. When you combine this with a test print provided it significantly speeds up the process of leveling om scratch.

Yes I agree I wrestled with the idea of producing an internal rechargeable lipo battery or power by printer. I think the next version could do both. I'd also like to shrink the size and put a universal mounting bracket in it so it could go on other models. Thanks for the feedback.

Thanks. It took a while to work out the bugs but its really stable.

Hi, you can modfy to use without a screen and one coil. I am working on arduino nano single coil version now so will publish in the next few weeks. It is for a specific application however the circuit could be modified to suit.1. Coils can be adjusted to suit2. The original design was an NPN however in recent circuits Ive used a FET as they are more efficient3. the 1M resistor provide forward Bias for the NPN receive transistor and gain control.4. This is dependent on size of object

HiWhat version of Arduino IDE are you using?

Hi, am happy to provide gaphics files if you want to do a conversion. Just message me directly with your email.

Great news. Now try changing the screen type in the code as this probably the final issue. See the step 4 number 4 above

These 3 lines indicate that these libraries are not loaded.Retro_DK_Clock_V3.ino:5:19: warning: UTFT.h: No such file or directoryRetro_DK_Clock_V3.ino:6:21: warning: URTouch.h: No such file or directoryRetro_DK_Clock_V3.ino:8:20: warning: Time.h: No such file or directoryThese library files need to be loaded into the Arduino IDE before compiling. See this link for the procedure https://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/Libraries

Nice work. I haven't seen this before so will mention in main text.

Hey this is a common problem Ive had when loading libraries. it looks like the libraries are not loading correctly into the Arduino IDE. Firstly try this, exit the IDE then restart the IDE and try load again. Sometimes this is an issue. If still not working manually add the libraries. If they are correctly installed you can view them in the IDE libraries menu. Once done ensure you exit the IDE then restart the IDE and try load again. Let me know if this helps.

Hey if still having issues can you please message me the error messages you are getting