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I would look at clay king or paragon kilns for components like the coil or the controller. The fire bricks are easy to find on Amazon... the test can be found at Home Depot... hope that helps
Check out my two instructables...I did it for about 150....controllers are expensive though so add at least another 80
Nice work...did you think about etching the copper instead of chasing it? Just curious.
I like your project..very creative. It’s too bad you didn’t photograph as you built it. It makes for a better instructable.
My little kiln can get up to 2100 C with Kanthal.....check out my instructable
Fancier than mine, but way more expensive.....https://www.instructables.com/Electric-Kiln-Top-Loader/
I think the top loader uses about the same as this one... you’ll have to calculate it though. I don’t have an exact number.
Firstly, peer review is not the end-all be-all of evidence. But there are a lot of medical studies from the 90’s on blood electrification! Go to pub-med and look them up for yourself. Secondly, I have personal experience with a disease with no good treatments! Chronic inflammatory demyelinating polyneuritis is no joke and slowly destroys your peripheral nerves. I don’t care what you say, my symptoms reversed and put this condition into remission. Lastly, there is good scientific reason why this will work. A 4 Hz square wave inactivates viral proteins by changing their shape. The research is out there... go look it up!
This is dopey and shows a lack of any real research or an attempt to read the extensive literature on these devices and therapies. There is a ton of positive research on taking small doses of h2o2 especially in treating fungal problems like candida. Blood electrifiers have also been studied quite a bit and I have personal experience with it reversing all of my symptoms of CIDP. The same is true of the magnetic pulser. You lack of understanding of the the protocols, the literature on it and the general theory, shows a profound lack of ignorance! Everything you don’t understand isn’t “woo”!
Backyard GateView Instructable »
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It inactivates viral proteins
Wrong! They worked for me... these are no placebos and have a lot of science around why they work....
If you are using kanthal wire....your upper limit will be about 2100 F. If you leave it at that temp for too long your coils will slump then start to damage the fire brick.... eventually the coil will arc then burn out.
I have an instructable for my little toploader if you want to see that design. It gets more complicated with bigger kilns. Higher watt requirements, longer coils, etc. If you increase the size, your element will be longer and draw more power, plus take longer to heat up. Just some things to thinks about.
In short, yes. The soft ones are cheaper though.
With PMC3 clay, I just turn it on to my setting that will take it up to 900 degrees C. I monitor it. Then let it run for about 2 hours. I turn it off and let it cool naturally. No quenching. I only do silver, though.
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One pic of a finished leg mount and this would be a good instructable.
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Sorry, I can’t advise you on that build....
Yes, I would measure the extra distance and just add another brick. Keep in mind that with 120V, your longer coil will take longer to heat up and reach the temp you want...but it should work.
This is great project...i loved how mine turned out. Otters are my wife's favourite. I couldnt find a little dish...so this was a li from a candle.
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What did you use to make that nice technical drawing?
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I think you are missing the point of what Instructables is. This is a site of people that like to make things and not buy them off the shelf. The point of this Instructable is that kilns, like the one in your post, cost $500-$1000. You can build one yourself for fraction of that cost!
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I’m glad it helped!!!:)
how is this a runner up? You should have won!
Congrats on winning the contest. I can’t help but think that with all the work you did I on sanding you could have cast this in metal, either aluminum or brass.
Great project! I may build one. A futon mattress may be a great option because it could fold while in couch mode then lay flat when you pull out the bed.
Love the door! Great job!
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No, I don't think so. I made all my calculations based on 120V. Your voltage will change everything, I think.
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yes, to all of your questions. Just don't stretch it out too much when separating your coils or it will be too long. My outside diameter was a little bigger when I ended up making my own coil because my mandrel was 1/4" and the width of the wire pushed it up slightly over 3/8". I just filed my channels down a little and it fit fine. I think the last element I made was about 18 inches. You don't want to go much shorter than that or the kiln will heat up too fast with too little resistance. Please let me know if this helps and how your final kiln turns out!
Mine is a 15 Amp circuit so I tried to keep mine as short as possible without it heating up too much. Here's a website if you want more technical info. http://dcknives.blogspot.com/p/winding-kanthal-a1-element-for-an.html?m=1
There are formulas out there Dan. More by experience and trial and error though. My first element was too short and heated up too fast. I had to change the design of my top loader because of that.
Electric Kiln -- Top Loader View Instructable »
if your coil is too short it will heat up too fast and the temperature will be hard to control. It may just heat up and burn out the coil. You definitely don't want to plug it directly into a wall outlet. Get a controller.
No, I don't think so. I have since done some asking around. What you really want is either a PID controller (read some of the comments above) or an Infinity Control Switch (ICS kiln controller). Sundanceglass.com has one for sale.
Hi again--i will post a new instructable soon on my next kiln that has instructions on how to wind an element. It is real easy though.
Probably not. I'm not an electrician, but I have mine in the garage and I can barely run anything else on that circuit without tripping the breaker. On dedicated circuit you will have enough heat to melt aluminum though.
Mine is a K-type thermocouple. I don't have a PID controller on mine, so i cant help you there. Look at some of the links in tge comments. Others have put pid controllers on theirs.
Because it is insulated with Kaowool. Lol
Cool! Nice work. Glad you found it helpful!
Hi, I'm not really sure the gauge on the door. I'm guessing about 22 or 24. It doesn't really matter as long as you can bend it with your fingers. Too thick and you will need a metal brake to form it.Hope that helps.
It's not really a source. It's a variable control. You plug it into a socket. It has no markings on it. I got it from an old table top kiln I bought off eBay.
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