author
6Instructables110,259Views97CommentsKönigsberg (Kaliningrad, Russia)
My name is Andrei. I love paragliding, photography and making different stuff with my own hands! =)

Achievements

10K+ Views Earned a bronze medal
Anything Goes Contest 2021
Contest Winner First Prize in the Anything Goes Contest 2021
Photography Challenge
Contest Winner First Prize in the Photography Challenge
Space Contest
Contest Winner Second Prize in the Space Contest
  • ESP32 Bluetooth Mechanical Keyboard - the Sanctuary

    Man, this is awesome! Amazing build!

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  • Star Tracker for DSLR (Arduino + 3D Printing)

    Hi! Thank you for the kind words! Glad you like my instructable!Speaking of the files, you need to change both "Bottom_Tripod_Bracket.SLDPRT" and "Camera_Tripod_Plate_Rect.SLDPRT".They both are the only .SLDPRT files in the list (not .STL) so you can edit them in Solidworks.

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  • Star Tracker for DSLR (Arduino + 3D Printing)

    Hello! Thank you for the idea!I'm thinking about it, however this will not happen soon, as the tracker is far from ideal. I first need to fix all issues.

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  • Star Tracker for DSLR (Arduino + 3D Printing)

    Hello!Sorry for late reply!Thank you for the kind words!Speaking of your question, that will be totally fine for you to use 40° bracket both for 39°N and 41°N locations.And as for printing parts, I can say that you can continue printing the rear part of the tracker (the one with four bearings) since no changes are gonna be made there.At this moment working on the big gear. It's pretty tricky to make it precise enough, so it'll take some time.Let me know if you have any other questions!

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  • Star Tracker for DSLR (Arduino + 3D Printing)

    Hi Sam!Glad you like my instructable!Thank you very much for the kind words! I really appreciate this!Just in case, if you decide to build the tracker, please wait a bit until I finish fixing the mentioned flaws!At this point completely re-modeling the big gear. I believe it will allow to use tracker with longer exposures.

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  • XONIX commented on XONIX's instructable Astrophotography for Beginners
    Astrophotography for Beginners

    Could you please give the model of your camera?Speaking of DIY telephoto lens, I can recommend you to cosider building a Newtonian reflector telescope. You can buy relatively cheap main and secondary mirrors online and then you only have to build the body of a telescope. There are a lot of videos on YouTube of how to build a telescope!

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  • Star Tracker for DSLR (Arduino + 3D Printing)

    Hey! Thanks! :)I'm afraid, I can't tell you the cost, cause I already had a lot of stuff I used, so I didn't have to order it.But you can actually count a rough cost yourself. In the instructable I gave links to onlines stores for all parts I used.And also if you have a 3D printer, then you should take into account the cost of 1kg filament.

    Hello Skyfinder!My gear for shooting includes Canon 6D body, Canon 70D body, old and heavy Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 lens, Canon 24-70L f/4.0, Samyang 14mm f/2.8 and several other lenses. I would actually not call it an entry-level gear and light lenses. The greatest weight of all these is when using 6D body with Sigma 70-200 (2.210kg or 4.87Lb) and 70D body with the same lens (2.185kg or 4.81Lb).But even with this weight the cheap 28BYJ-48 stepper with default ULN2003 driver controlled by usual Arduino Nano board is capable of rotating the gear.Of course, my tracker has huge limitations and it will not be able to work with super heavy gear, but it actually doesn't have to. My idea was to make a tracker that can be built by beginners with regular cameras and not for super-pros with tens or even …

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    Hello Skyfinder!My gear for shooting includes Canon 6D body, Canon 70D body, old and heavy Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 lens, Canon 24-70L f/4.0, Samyang 14mm f/2.8 and several other lenses. I would actually not call it an entry-level gear and light lenses. The greatest weight of all these is when using 6D body with Sigma 70-200 (2.210kg or 4.87Lb) and 70D body with the same lens (2.185kg or 4.81Lb).But even with this weight the cheap 28BYJ-48 stepper with default ULN2003 driver controlled by usual Arduino Nano board is capable of rotating the gear.Of course, my tracker has huge limitations and it will not be able to work with super heavy gear, but it actually doesn't have to. My idea was to make a tracker that can be built by beginners with regular cameras and not for super-pros with tens or even hundreds of thousand dollars worth of gear.P.S. Could you please let me know which gear you tried to use with your tracker? What was the weight of your camera and lens? And a bit more information about your tracker!Thank you!

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    • Star Tracker for DSLR (Arduino + 3D Printing)
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  • Star Tracker for DSLR (Arduino + 3D Printing)

    Wow! That is so cool! Wish you a great trip! :)Also don't forget to change the tripod adapter angle to a latitude value of the area you are going to!

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  • Star Tracker for DSLR (Arduino + 3D Printing)

    He-he! Thanks man! :)

    Thank you!Let me know if you have questions, when time comes to build this device! :)

    Thank you very much!

    Thank you for the kind words! Glad you find my instructable useful! :)Speaking of PLA thread, looks like it works fine, at least after 20-30 hours of test tracking, nothing happened to it. Will keep testing!P.S. And even if gear with printed thread dies in 50-60 hours, there's always an option to print another one! :)

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  • XONIX commented on XONIX's instructable Astrophotography for Beginners
    Astrophotography for Beginners

    Thank you very much! Glad you like my instructable! :)And speaking of your Olympus camera, I can ensure you, it is capable of creating amazing photos! ;)

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  • Triangulum - 3D Printed 3-Hand Clock

    Really cool project!Speaking of powering the clock, you can consider using a couple of 18650 cells with a DC-DC converter. Or maybe one 18650 cell with boost converter (but this may not provide enough power).

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  • XONIX commented on XONIX's instructable Astrophotography for Beginners
    Astrophotography for Beginners

    Wow! This is such an amazing review! Thank you very much! I'm really glad you liked the instructable and found it useful.Comments like yours motivate me to write more interesting posts! Thanks again! :)

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  • XONIX's instructable Astrophotography for Beginners's weekly stats:
    • Astrophotography for Beginners
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  • XONIX commented on XONIX's instructable Astrophotography for Beginners
    Astrophotography for Beginners

    Thank you very much!

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  • XONIX's entry Astrophotography for Beginners is a finalist in the Photography Challenge contest
  • XONIX commented on XONIX's instructable Astrophotography for Beginners
    Astrophotography for Beginners

    That's great! Wish you to find a camera soon! Will be waiting for your pictures here! :)

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  • XONIX commented on XONIX's instructable Astrophotography for Beginners
    Astrophotography for Beginners

    Thank you! :)Doing my best to finish it ASAP! :)

    Thanks a lot! :)

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  • XONIX commented on XONIX's instructable Astrophotography for Beginners
    Astrophotography for Beginners

    That is totally correct! :)

    Beautiful words!

    Благодарю! Рад, что понравилось!Если будут вопросы, дайте знать!

    Glad you like my instructable! :)I'm actually thinking of creating a manual about my own processing techniques and tricks! But that will of course take time!And here's another small tip especially for you! When you go shooting, always try to find a place where the bright cities are behind you. If the city is between you and the subject in the sky, no matter how far you go, the city lights will still be visible

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  • XONIX commented on XONIX's instructable Astrophotography for Beginners
    Astrophotography for Beginners

    Thank you very much for the kind words!Yes, you are absolutely right, each style requires its own instructable! Perhaps in future I'll find time to make them one by one! :)

    Thanks! Glad you like it! :)

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  • How to Squeeze the Max Out of Entry-level Telescope

    Thank you for the kind words!And also thanks for the advice on the book! :)

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  • How to Squeeze the Max Out of Entry-level Telescope

    Glad to help! :)Let me know if you have any questions!

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  • How to Squeeze the Max Out of Entry-level Telescope

    Glad to help! :)

    Thank you for the kind words!

    Thank you very much for the kind words!And you definitely should take your telescope out of its box! :)

    That is totally correct! It can be used together with DSLR T-adapter!

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  • How to Squeeze the Max Out of Entry-level Telescope

    Awesome! Thank you! Already updated the instructable! :)

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  • How to Squeeze the Max Out of Entry-level Telescope

    Thanks man! Thank you for the kind words!

    Could you please give me some more details about the error?

    Pretty cool idea! Thank you!Don't you mind if I add this tip to an instructable?P.S. Maybe you have a link to a set similar to yours?

    Well, speaking of impossibility, I can say that literally every step can be finished without specific knowledge of Arduino, coding, soldering, etc.Just only some basic wiring may be required and only for the focusing device (to power up the RC servo instead of tricky Arduino board with motor and driver).Polar axis drive can be ordered online for like $30.Good findercope can also be found on Amazon or Ebay for $40-70 with metal holder already.I used Arduino and 3d-printed parts for a number of reasons: I wanted the devices to look certain way, to fit nicely altogether, to have certain predetermined parameters and to be finished devices without hanging wires, which would be comfortable to use.And now speaking of the cost for all the mods I made. They did cost me literally nothing but time (…

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    Well, speaking of impossibility, I can say that literally every step can be finished without specific knowledge of Arduino, coding, soldering, etc.Just only some basic wiring may be required and only for the focusing device (to power up the RC servo instead of tricky Arduino board with motor and driver).Polar axis drive can be ordered online for like $30.Good findercope can also be found on Amazon or Ebay for $40-70 with metal holder already.I used Arduino and 3d-printed parts for a number of reasons: I wanted the devices to look certain way, to fit nicely altogether, to have certain predetermined parameters and to be finished devices without hanging wires, which would be comfortable to use.And now speaking of the cost for all the mods I made. They did cost me literally nothing but time (except for purchased eyepiece, Barlow and collimator of course). The reason is that I initially had all the stuff I used. But of course, if you're gonna order every single part from my lists, that may be pretty expensive. This is why I tried to add links to similar devices you can buy.P.S. Over time, I will try to add new steps to create more simple devices that do not require a lot of specific knowledge.

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  • How to Squeeze the Max Out of Entry-level Telescope

    Thank you!Let me know, if you have any questions!

    Thank you for the kind words!I tried to put as much information as I could, but that's still not all I have! Over time, I will add new tips to the instructable! :)Let me know if you have any questions, when you drag the telescope out! ;)

    Thank you!You should definitely get the telescope out! And if you have any questions, let me know here in comments! :)

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    • How to Squeeze the Max Out of Entry-level Telescope
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  • How to Squeeze the Max Out of Entry-level Telescope

    Thank you Jessy!Really hope my work can be useful to someone! :)

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  • DIY Arduino Variometer for Paragliding / Делаем Вариометр На Ардуино

    Hey Taufiq! Thanks a lot! Hope the device will help you to find awesome thermals! :)And I'll keep in mind your words! Will let you know when I'm going to Indonesia! :)

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  • DIY Arduino Variometer for Paragliding / Делаем Вариометр На Ардуино

    Adding a memory storing feature will be a bit tricky. The thing is that my code uses almost all available space, and to add something new, it's necessary to remove something. And this may take significant time!May I aslo ask, what settings you have to change every time before flight? Maybe as a temporary solution I can help you to modify the firmware (set initial parameters) a bit to fit your needs?

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  • DIY Arduino Variometer for Paragliding / Делаем Вариометр На Ардуино

    Приветствую!Боюсь, не смогу ответить, так как схему и прошивку из десятого шага создавал не я, а собрать и проверить ее у меня не было возможности.Однако, чисто логически, могу предположить, что чем больше будет емкость 18650 банки, тем лучше (в пределах разумного, конечно).По поводу подключения дисплея тоже не могу прокомментировать, поскольку в своей оригинальной версии, как и Вы, подключал все через I2C.

    Hey Aldo!That's awesome! Thanks for testing the device in thermals! Local conditions where I live, do not allow to fully test it. We don't have mountains and we're very close to the sea, so it's a combo for weak and rare thermal weather. Also very glad that device worked fine and was informative! :)Also thanks a lot for the Spanish manual! I've already added it to the instructable!As for stuff to add, there's actually already about 20-30 points in the list... Have no idea how to find time to all this and how to optimize firmware size to have enough memory. Maybe in future will try to make similar device but based on STM board... Who knows!.. :)

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  • DIY Arduino Variometer for Paragliding / Делаем Вариометр На Ардуино

    I suppose the roots of this issue are in specific way of BMP280 initialisation. Several people informed me about similar problems (vario screaming for several seconds after turning on because of too high ascend rate, wrong altitude values after initialization, etc.). The thing is that my sketch is optimized exactly for BMP180. And unfortunately I can't fix the issue with 280 sensor at this moment, cause I don't have one.However, as a temporary solution in your case I can suggest resetting the 'Max/Min Vario screen' (Memo mode) in about 15-30 seconds after vario is turned on. To do this enter the 'Max/Min Vario screen' by pressing Button 3 twice and then press Button 3 for a couple of seconds. You will hear three short beeps and all values will set to zero. Try to fly this way and let me k…

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    I suppose the roots of this issue are in specific way of BMP280 initialisation. Several people informed me about similar problems (vario screaming for several seconds after turning on because of too high ascend rate, wrong altitude values after initialization, etc.). The thing is that my sketch is optimized exactly for BMP180. And unfortunately I can't fix the issue with 280 sensor at this moment, cause I don't have one.However, as a temporary solution in your case I can suggest resetting the 'Max/Min Vario screen' (Memo mode) in about 15-30 seconds after vario is turned on. To do this enter the 'Max/Min Vario screen' by pressing Button 3 twice and then press Button 3 for a couple of seconds. You will hear three short beeps and all values will set to zero. Try to fly this way and let me know if readings look good.I also recommend to reset the screen of 'Max altitudes' before take off. To do that press button 3 once (while being on the Main screen) and press Button 3 for a couple of seconds. You will hear three short beeps and all Alt readings will set to zero.As for default settings, please let me know if you succeed to correct the sketch. If not, you can give me the settings you need to be set, I edit the sketch and give you the correct version."In this week end, i'll start with user manual spanish translation." - no rush! When you have time for this! But thanks in advance! :)

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  • DIY Arduino Variometer for Paragliding / Делаем Вариометр На Ардуино

    That's great! Glad you like the device and thanks for sharing the results of test flights!Answering your questions:1. It's physically possible to store settings in the Arduino Nano memory, however is is not realized in my firmware yet. I really want to make this feature, but just don't have time for it now. Hope to make it in future.2. Could you please give some more details about this bug? Let me know what sensor (BMP180; BMP280; BME280) and what firmware (my original, or one of updates (steps 8; 9; 10)) you used. At this point, since max descend reading is correct and max ascend is not, it looks like there's something wrong with the sketch. Did you make any changes to it?Here's a link to a video description, please take a look.https://youtu.be/TNogQdlIWto?t=40This link will lead you exa…

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    That's great! Glad you like the device and thanks for sharing the results of test flights!Answering your questions:1. It's physically possible to store settings in the Arduino Nano memory, however is is not realized in my firmware yet. I really want to make this feature, but just don't have time for it now. Hope to make it in future.2. Could you please give some more details about this bug? Let me know what sensor (BMP180; BMP280; BME280) and what firmware (my original, or one of updates (steps 8; 9; 10)) you used. At this point, since max descend reading is correct and max ascend is not, it looks like there's something wrong with the sketch. Did you make any changes to it?Here's a link to a video description, please take a look.https://youtu.be/TNogQdlIWto?t=40This link will lead you exactly to the screen we are talking about, and it should look exactly like on the video. Both values should be decimals with two digits after decimal point. However, if the ascend or descend rate is too high (two-digit number, or in case of being sucked into thunderstorm, or falling from stratosphere three-digit number), number of decimals may decrease due to lack of place on the screen.Could you please take a picture of incorrect reading and send it to me, or attach here in comments?P.S. That would be great if you can translate my manual to Spanish! I'll add it here to the post! :)

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  • DIY Arduino Variometer for Paragliding / Делаем Вариометр На Ардуино

    Приветствую!Отвечая на Ваш вопрос "Возможно ВМР280 который у меня работает только с паскалями?", могу сказать, что по сути не важно, в каком виде датчик выплевывает данные. Будь то паскали, мм рт.ст., бары и т.д., всегда можно вставить в код формулу пересчета и выводить давление на экран уже в тех единицах, которые требуются."Еще раз благодарю за статью." - рад, что статья была полезной! :)

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  • DIY Arduino Variometer for Paragliding / Делаем Вариометр На Ардуино

    Приветствую!Прошу прощения за столь долгий ответ. У меня было несколько безумных недель в работе, проверить почту даже нормально возможности не было.Касательно вопросов и глюков:1. Писк, крик и просьба раскрыть парашют на старте - это особенность работы именно моего кода и именно с датчиком BMP280. Дело в том, что я свой прибор собирал на датчике BMP180, и подгонял код под него. 280-й, видимо, проходит инициализацию иначе, в этом все и дело. Высоты сперва отображаются некорректно по той же самой причине. В статье Вы можете взглянуть на Шаг 10. Там наш коллега по небу Иван собирал прибор на том же 280 датчике, правда с OLED-дисплеем, он, как раз, и описывал те же самые проблемы при инициализации.Итого, я вижу три варианта решения этой проблемы:- если Вы уже достаточно освоились с программи…

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    Приветствую!Прошу прощения за столь долгий ответ. У меня было несколько безумных недель в работе, проверить почту даже нормально возможности не было.Касательно вопросов и глюков:1. Писк, крик и просьба раскрыть парашют на старте - это особенность работы именно моего кода и именно с датчиком BMP280. Дело в том, что я свой прибор собирал на датчике BMP180, и подгонял код под него. 280-й, видимо, проходит инициализацию иначе, в этом все и дело. Высоты сперва отображаются некорректно по той же самой причине. В статье Вы можете взглянуть на Шаг 10. Там наш коллега по небу Иван собирал прибор на том же 280 датчике, правда с OLED-дисплеем, он, как раз, и описывал те же самые проблемы при инициализации.Итого, я вижу три варианта решения этой проблемы:- если Вы уже достаточно освоились с программированием, то могу порекомендовать пересобрать код под 280 датчик и тот экран, который Вы используете;- так же можно докупить OLED-дисплей и применить скетч Ивана, которым он с нами поделился в Шаге 10 (там уже и индикация уровня заряда аккумулятора есть);- ну и крайний вариант - собирать прибор на 180 датчике уже с моим оригинальным скетчем. Правда, не рекомендую, все-таки 180 датчик уже устарел.2. Причина невозможности изменить значение одного из регистров кроется опять же в оптимизации кода, на этот раз под отображение давления в миллиметрах ртутного столба, а не в паскалях. Дело в том, что значение давления что для мм рт. ст., что для паскалей занимает ровно 6 символов, но для отображения в мм рт. ст. один из символов - это точка, и именно ее проскакивает галочка при вводе значения. Здесь на видео это хорошо видно:https://youtu.be/TNogQdlIWto?t=67Честно сказать, затрудняюсь ответить, почему у Вас ввод производится в паскалях. Это для меня загадка. Но, опять же, если Вам требуются именно паскали, то можно пересобрать код. Это займет немного времени, но это вполне реализуемо.3. Касательно высот старта, в приборе отображаются три высоты: абсолютная и две относительных. Каждый раз при включении прибора абсолютная высота считается по исходному давлению в 760.00 мм рт. ст. (которое потом можно изменить), а две относительных обнуляются в месте инициализации прибора.Реализовано было именно так, потому что мы летаем над морем, и старт у нас часто с вершины обрыва. Порой надо знать высоту именно от уровня моря, а не от точки старта, именно для этого и сделана высота по давлению (т.к. спускаться вниз до моря, чтобы включить прибор и установить верную высоту, значит тратить время, которое можно было потратить на полет). Установив нужное давление перед стартом (взяв его из прогноза погоды или метеосводки аэропорта), мы сразу получаем правильную высоту над уровнем моря (ну либо уже после полета можно давление ввести, тогда максимальная набранная высота на экране высот пересчитается). А значение 760.00 мм рт.ст. было выбрано просто потому, что оно является средним на уровне моря.Кстати, обнулить любую из трех высот можно принудительно долгим нажатием кнопки 2.4. Касательно погрешности в отображении температуры, да, такой косяк есть, т.к. внутри закрытого корпуса прибора температура неизбежно будет отличаться от внешней температуры. Эту особенность удалось частично нивелировать именно в корпусе, предназначенном для печати, т.к. там датчик устанавливается в проточный канал, где постоянно находится в набегающем потоке внешнего воздуха. К сожалению, в корпусе с Али такого канала нет, поэтому присутствует погрешность показаний.

    Hello! Sorry for super late reply! Those were several crazy weeks for me, so I even could not check my mail normally...As for your questions:1. This is the charging module for 18650 lithium battery (1S)2. The main purposes of this device is to show variometer value and altitude value, so yes, it can display the rate of change in altitude3. It might be useful for powered parachute. Here's a video with description of all device's functions and a small room test. In this video in the top left corner of the display you can see exactly the variometer (rate of climb and descent indicator, vertical speed indicator) value. Arrows on the very left are also showing if you are going up or down.https://youtu.be/TNogQdlIWto?t=190

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  • DIY Arduino Variometer for Paragliding / Делаем Вариометр На Ардуино

    Приветствую!Сказать по правде, в данный момент с Ваших слов проблематично определить корни проблемы.Однако, если ранее Вы не работали со средой разработки Arduino, то я настоятельно рекомендую провести полное и корректное удаление приложения Arduino IDE, перезагрузить компьютер, а затем установить его заново по вот этой видео-инструкции: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OsXFswotVNIПосле завершения установки необходимо будет установить требуемые библиотеки. Для этого нужно закрыть приложение Arduino IDE, скачать все архивы библиотек, представленных в инструкции (4 штуки), распаковать каждую в свою отдельную папку (с тем же именем, что и у архива), а после этого положить все четыре папки библиотек по пути "Program Files\Arduino\libraries".После этого можно запустить приложение Ardu…

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    Приветствую!Сказать по правде, в данный момент с Ваших слов проблематично определить корни проблемы.Однако, если ранее Вы не работали со средой разработки Arduino, то я настоятельно рекомендую провести полное и корректное удаление приложения Arduino IDE, перезагрузить компьютер, а затем установить его заново по вот этой видео-инструкции: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OsXFswotVNIПосле завершения установки необходимо будет установить требуемые библиотеки. Для этого нужно закрыть приложение Arduino IDE, скачать все архивы библиотек, представленных в инструкции (4 штуки), распаковать каждую в свою отдельную папку (с тем же именем, что и у архива), а после этого положить все четыре папки библиотек по пути "Program Files\Arduino\libraries".После этого можно запустить приложение Arduino IDE, открыть файл прошивки и провести его компиляцию (проверку). Если все сделано правильно, то внизу не должны появиться сообщения об ошибках.Дайте знать, победили ли Вы проблему. Если нет, то будем думать дальше.Удачи!

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  • DIY Arduino Variometer for Paragliding / Делаем Вариометр На Ардуино

    Hi! Yep, you're totally right! This case is pretty good for the project! :)

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  • DIY Arduino Variometer for Paragliding / Делаем Вариометр На Ардуино

    Thank you for informing! Will keep that in mind!Also if you don't mind I'll add your post into the instructable.

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  • DIY Arduino Variometer for Paragliding / Делаем Вариометр На Ардуино

    Благодарю за добрые слова! Очень рад, что мой мануал был полезен!Если будут еще вопросы, дай знать! ))

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    • Simple and Small Programmable Lab Power Supply
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      9 comments
  • DIY Arduino Variometer for Paragliding / Делаем Вариометр На Ардуино

    That's so cool! Congratulations on a working prototype! Glad my project helped you! :)Could you please share a link to your project? Really interesting to see it!

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  • Simple and Small Programmable Lab Power Supply

    Thanks! Glad you liked it! :)

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  • Simple and Small Programmable Lab Power Supply

    Thank you very much!Glad you like it!

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  • DIY Arduino Variometer for Paragliding / Делаем Вариометр На Ардуино

    Hello OscarG11!I'm afraid I can't surely say your sensor will work fine. I never used one like this, so I just don't know, and I don't have one to test it. But in my Instructable you can find chapters with sketches for BMP280 and BME280 sensors. You can try them.But if you need exactly the one I used in this project, then here are couple of first links to AliExpress:https://aliexpress.ru/item/32519558222.html?spm=a2...https://aliexpress.ru/item/32228095913.html?spm=a2...Wish you luck in building the device!Let me know if you have further questions!

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  • Thank you very much for your kind words! Really glad this project can be useful for you! =)

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  • I'm also modelling the case now. It should have some features to avoid the issues of the current case. But I'm gonna use ABS, I think. Mostly because of the probability to forget the vario in the car at hot sunny day... =)About the OLED. I'm pretty much sure that it would be easier to create a new code instead of changinig the one for LCD. Although I can be wrong. I haven't deeply work with these screens yet.

    P.S. Also in the future I want to make a micro vario based on Arduino Pro Mini, BME280 and 0.96' OLED using the LiPo cell as a power source.

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  • Thank you very much! Glad you liked it! =)The case looks pretty cool! What plastic did you use?

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  • Hi!Well, approximately the delay is somewhere between 0.5 and 1.0 seconds. If you want, you can count it more precisely by yourself using the room test video.BT upgrade is a cool idea. Also wanted to make it, but there was no necessity. If you make it, it would be cool if you could share the manual! =)

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  • Really glad you liked it! =)So what's with the sound now? Did you totally solve the problem?

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