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Hey there! Thank you for stopping by. I'm Adhith, a Mechanical Engineer from India. Looking for some unique & in depth articles on building diy projects? Then, I have few stories on board. My works mainly involves with electronics, designing, machining, a bit of crafting and few others. Do check out my projects and let me know your thoughts

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  • Yeah, you are right. I have seen a few before. But this one have gone a step ahead i guess. They are moreover claiming all the work coz audience are forced to sign up to their page for following more work form the authors. I have noticed Autodesk about this issue and they have directed me to file a DMCA takedown notice to them. Since the site have also copied the team members work, Autodesk have transfer this issue to their copyright team. Lets see.

    Yeah, you are right. I have seen a few before. But this one have gone a step ahead i guess. They are moreover claiming all the work since the viewers are forced to sign up to their page for following more work form the authors.I have noticed Autodesk about this issue and they have directed me to file a DMCA takedown notice against them. Since the site have also copied the instructables team member's work, Autodesk have transfer this issue to their copyright team for further action. Lets see.

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  • Sound Blink - a Unique DIY Portable Speaker Companion

    Good to hear that the problem is resolved.My personal suggestion is to raise the mah rating of your battery pack for more juice to power your project. Or else it will quickly run out.You can do it by making an additional 4 cell inseries battery pack and then conneting the new one in parellel with the old one. This doubles the capacity. Search for 4s2p battery pack to get an idea of it.Sure, keep me updated on your project.Best wishes to you

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  • Sound Blink - a Unique DIY Portable Speaker Companion

    Are you sure that you are turning the right potentiometer for the current control?

    Okay good. I think everything is find from the side of connections and setup. You have tried turning the screws both clockwise & anti-clockwise right?You could also try whether you multimeter current mode is working or not.You could try connection a small dc load ( a dc motor or something) with a battery. The multimeter should be connected in series with this setup like i have mentioned in my first reply. See whether the load value on multimeter screen changes or not.

    We need to another test to make sure that your CC/CV module is working or not.Detach your multi-meter probes and set it to voltage mode and connect to the output terminals. Use that 19V 3.4A power supply as the input for CC/CV module and set the voltage at 12V. Now remove the multi-meter and connect your previous 12V DC fan at the output.Check whether you could slow down the speed of the DC fan just by turning the screw for current control.if its slowing down, your module is fine and we could move further.

    Try using a 12v 3A supply. maybe the DC adapter is straining too hard to pass through two modules and hence not functioning properly.Before that, try connecting the 5V power supply directly at the CC/CV module input side without using the 18V buck boost module.

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  • Sound Blink - a Unique DIY Portable Speaker Companion

    Though i have explained the concept of using the module , i wrongly quoted it as the 18v side in my previous reply. Sorry for that. Actually in this particular case the multimeter could be directly connected to the output side of the CC/CV module. Positive probe on the positive output and negative probe on the negative output.The 18v wires should be directly connected to the input side of cc/cv module.Try that way and let me know. Be carefull not to use the mutimeter continuous for more than 10 seconds.If you are using a external power brick then battery wont be an issue. Other wise you need more mah rating by putting similar cells in parallel for longer playback. Like 4s2p or 4s3p battery pack configurations.

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  • Sound Blink - a Unique DIY Portable Speaker Companion

    Your are most welcome. Yes, exactly. Also, you could do the same with the negative cable too. Both will work.

    Hello there, glad to hear that.Lets set aside the ground isolation concern at the moment and instead dive into the topic of setting the current using multi meter.multi-meter consist of three terminal ports to connect the wire porbes. the COM, voltage & the current ports. Black coloured probe always goes to the COM or common port while measuring both the voltage & current. For measuring the current, the red wire should be swtiched from the voltage port to the current port and then set the rotary switch to the 10A current option. You could now start using the multi meter for measuring the current.one thing to note is that, for measuring the voltage the probes should be used in parallel with the terminals of the object that we are going to measure.however for current measurement, the…

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    Hello there, glad to hear that.Lets set aside the ground isolation concern at the moment and instead dive into the topic of setting the current using multi meter.multi-meter consist of three terminal ports to connect the wire porbes. the COM, voltage & the current ports. Black coloured probe always goes to the COM or common port while measuring both the voltage & current. For measuring the current, the red wire should be swtiched from the voltage port to the current port and then set the rotary switch to the 10A current option. You could now start using the multi meter for measuring the current.one thing to note is that, for measuring the voltage the probes should be used in parallel with the terminals of the object that we are going to measure.however for current measurement, the multi-meter should be in series with the object whose current flow is to me measured so that, the current flows through the multi-meter for detecting the current value.which means, connect the 18v positive terminal to the positive terminal of multi-meter. Then the 18v negative terminal to the negative terminal of CC/CV module.Then connect the negative terminal of the multimeter to the positive terminal of the CC/CV module.you are now done. you could now use the potentiometer to adjust the current value to the required value. its also better to not use the multi-meter for more than 10 seconds while in current mode; so that it don't overheat the internal resistor of the multi-meter.About the isolation of ground.it simply means that, the output ground terminal of the CC/CV module should not be connected to its input terminal. It will bypass the internal circuit and the constant current function won't work or even the circuit may blow up. However, while supplying the 18v line to the inputs terminals of CC/CV module, its input ground becomes a part of the common ground line in the enitre project coz, 18V negative line is a part of the common ground. So the significance of the isolation is that, the output ground of CC/CV module should not be connected to the common line of the entire project.Hope that clears the stuff. If not, do let me know. Happy to help again

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  • Pocket Sized Vacuum Cleaner

    Thank you very much for your support. Glad to see your interest on my project. What you have mentioned is a very valid point. To be honest, using the 3.7V Li ion pack is not a great design choice for this particular application. Developing a powerful and portable vacuum cleaner was my main priority. This pushed me to use a very powerful motor for suction and obviously it draws more power. So the battery pack will get exhausted in a very short span of time. So mostly the external power supply option is the one that I recommend. I would come up with a good design in the future.regarding your question1) It's a buck converter. It would work below 5V and act like a conductor but it would reduce the efficiency. The charging module have a over current protection at a current draw at 3A. As a fa…

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    Thank you very much for your support. Glad to see your interest on my project. What you have mentioned is a very valid point. To be honest, using the 3.7V Li ion pack is not a great design choice for this particular application. Developing a powerful and portable vacuum cleaner was my main priority. This pushed me to use a very powerful motor for suction and obviously it draws more power. So the battery pack will get exhausted in a very short span of time. So mostly the external power supply option is the one that I recommend. I would come up with a good design in the future.regarding your question1) It's a buck converter. It would work below 5V and act like a conductor but it would reduce the efficiency. The charging module have a over current protection at a current draw at 3A. As a factor of safety, its better to connect a load around 2.5-2.7 A. Since we have a load of 3A, the output terminals of the charging module is left alone. Instead, we use a BMS module rated at 10A output with the cell. BMS provides the over & under charge similar to the charging module output side. It doesn't boost the voltage. However, the BMS can't charge the cells; so the idea was to use the charging module just for charging and to rely on the BMS module for connecting the load.When using a Dc power brick, the buck converter reduces to the voltage to 7.4v. So basically we could get a much better suction.2) No, we can't simply push current to a circuit unless we change the load resistance or voltage. A constant current/constant voltage buck converter is basically a normal buck converter( which could reduce the voltage) with an additional option for restricting the current draw to the load. the current draw is always a load dependent process. if your load needs 3A, it will consume 3A. If it need less, it will take less. if you use a CC/CV module set at 3A, and a connect a load of 4A; the module will only provide 3A max to the load. In short, we are controlling the load to run at our required current rate.By using the CC/CV module, different type off load behaves differently. If its a micro-controllers or complex circuits, it would affect its efficient functionality or sometimes it won't even works. We should check it by our self.CC/CV module is very efficient to control the rpm of DC Motors and that's why I used it in this project. My motor consumes around 4.2A at 7.4 V and I thought of running at 3A to reduce heating issues. So I set it to 3A.So, I guess this would be helpful for you. If you want to modify your project, do let me know.long post is cool! I'm totally fine with it. Even I post long write ups and replies.

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  • Pocket Sized Vacuum Cleaner

    Hello there, thank you for having a look at my project. I hope you have asked the same question on my YouTube comment section as well. I'm just coping my same reply over YouTube to here as well.The answer is, it all depends on the specification of the motor that you are using. For the same motor that i have used, it will be difficult.Continue reading if you want to know the reason. In this project, we have two problem associated with using the motor. 1) The problem with very high rpm motor is that it heats up quickly and cant be used for more than one minute or so. To add more time for continous running without overheating, the current draw of the motor should be brought down. Under normal running conditions, the motor consumes around 4.2A. For our need, this draw is reduced to 3A using t…

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    Hello there, thank you for having a look at my project. I hope you have asked the same question on my YouTube comment section as well. I'm just coping my same reply over YouTube to here as well.The answer is, it all depends on the specification of the motor that you are using. For the same motor that i have used, it will be difficult.Continue reading if you want to know the reason. In this project, we have two problem associated with using the motor. 1) The problem with very high rpm motor is that it heats up quickly and cant be used for more than one minute or so. To add more time for continous running without overheating, the current draw of the motor should be brought down. Under normal running conditions, the motor consumes around 4.2A. For our need, this draw is reduced to 3A using the module called cc/cv buck converter. This solves the heating problem to a great extent.2) the charging module have an positive & negative output terminals through which the power is supplied to the motor. However this output pin is only rated for a max current of 3A. Also, it is much better to limit this to around 2 - 2.5 A to reduce the stress on the circuit module. So it will be difficult for the output pins to provide the required 3A current to power the motor.To solve this issue, a seperate module called BMS module rated for a higher current is used. It is the output pins of the BMS module which powers the motor. Whereas the output pins of the charging module is totally left alone. Hope this clears the doubt. If anything isn't clear to you, please let me know.

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  • Pocket Sized Vacuum Cleaner

    You are most welcome. Its also worth mentioning the type of motor and the size of the impeller. Higher the rpm of the motor and diameter of the impeller, higher the suction power. In most case we could use the advantage of any one of the above. Usual makers going for DIY vacuum cleaners, take the advantage of a larger diameter impeller and going for a relatively lower rpm motor likr a 775 dc motor which is rated anywhere between 5000 rpm to 8000 rpm. The pros are 1) it consumes less current and thus less power consuption. 2) direct motor shaft couplers are avaliable for this motor and thus an impeller could be made by cutting thin metal sheet and directly attached with ease.

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  • Pocket Sized Vacuum Cleaner

    I'm explaining things in detail to give you a complete picture. The procedure very simple, the discussion is lengthy only because I have include all the things related to it. just go through it and let me know if you need any further explanation on anything. I'll be happy to help.Using disposablebatteries won't be enough for an efficient working. The motor which I have usedconsumes around 4A at its rated voltage of 7.4V. But a normal disposablebattery cant provide this much of current and even if it's strained to itsmaximum, it won't be able to provide more than 800mA of current. Also, the cell would be fully drained within few minutes of usage.On the other hand, the advantage of LI ion cells is that it could providerelatively a higher amount of current. In my case, two LI ion cells arear…

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    I'm explaining things in detail to give you a complete picture. The procedure very simple, the discussion is lengthy only because I have include all the things related to it. just go through it and let me know if you need any further explanation on anything. I'll be happy to help.Using disposablebatteries won't be enough for an efficient working. The motor which I have usedconsumes around 4A at its rated voltage of 7.4V. But a normal disposablebattery cant provide this much of current and even if it's strained to itsmaximum, it won't be able to provide more than 800mA of current. Also, the cell would be fully drained within few minutes of usage.On the other hand, the advantage of LI ion cells is that it could providerelatively a higher amount of current. In my case, two LI ion cells arearranged in parallel configuration to increase the total capacity of thebattery pack (higher the cells in parallel, higher the mAh rating). Buteven this LI ion battery pack wont be enough for prolonged usage because our motor is very power hungry in order to provide this powerful suction. That's the main reason I have added the line- in mode to power directly power from the wall outlets. Thebattery pack is mostly suited for quick convenient usage only.coming to your second question, powering from the wall outlet could be done with the a DC adapter and a module called buck converter. This could be done in 2 methods as described below.1) use a 12V, 5A rated DC adapter or 9 V, 5A rated DC adapter and a 5A or 8A rated buck converter. There would be a small screw on the potentiometer (the blue colored block on the module) of the buck converter module. by turning it clock wise or anticlockwise you could reduce the input voltage to the required 7.4V. It can be done by powering the input with the dc adapter and measuring the output with a multi meter. I'll leave a link for you to have a look5A rated buck converterhttps://www.banggood.in/5A-XL4005-DCDC-Adjustable-...8A rated buck converterhttps://www.banggood.in/DC-DC-4_5-30V-to-0_8-28V-8...8A comes with heat sink for better heat dissipiation at higher current whreas the 5A ones dont have it. Always buy the module with that circular coil (inductor), it provides better steady current than those modules which don't comes with circular coil.2) if you could use a DC adapter rated for 5V, 5A. then there is no need for the buck module as the input voltage is below the rated 7.4V. but the motor won't be run at its rated 7.4 v and the suction would be less when compared to the first method.please note : if you are using a different motor you should set the rated voltage accordingly. In my project I have use a module called constant current constant voltage buck converter (CC/CV buck converter). this module is capable of regulating both the current and voltage. I used it to reduce the current draw of motor from 4A to 3A. I did so to reduce the strain to the battery pack and it was enough for my application. If you are powering from wall outlet you don't need to worry about the current draw.

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  • Pocket Sized Vacuum Cleaner

    Well, the charging module & BMS board (battery managment system) which I have used is meant mainly for for 3.7V 18650 LI ion cells. Though it could support some cells closely related to 18650s due to safety and proper charging cycle, its not recommended. If you could mention the exact model that your are referring to, maybe I could give you some info on that.

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  • Pocket Sized Vacuum Cleaner

    Thank you very much. I like the approach of making most of the parts by myself and with some tweaks to standardized and easily avaliable parts. I believe this approach would be much easier for everyone to follow with some simple hand tools. I'm glad that you liked the project.

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  • Object Counter Using IR

    Unfortunately I don't have the components to test it out but I think using a transistor or a mechanical relay may solve the issue. I' not 100 percent sure though...

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  • Object Counter Using IR

    hey.. nice project. Is there a way to add a small buzzer which beeps each time during the count increase?

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    • Foldable Laptop Stand - Using Wooden Rulers
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  • Pocket Sized Vacuum Cleaner

    Thank you very much

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  • Pocket Sized Vacuum Cleaner

    Thank you very much.The outside fabric is jute and I'm totally obsessed with it. I use it for most of my projects.

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  • adhith94's instructable 360 Degree Portable Speaker's weekly stats:
    • 360 Degree Portable Speaker
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  • Awesome list but I really miss the speaker contest. I know there are a lot of audio enthusiast out there waiting to participate for it. right guys?? what do you think?

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  • adhith94's instructable How to Make a 3 in 1 Tripod 's weekly stats:
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  • adhith94 entered DIY 3 in 1 Tripod in the Remix Contest contest
  • adhith94's instructable Simple DiY Mobile MonoPod's weekly stats:
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  • adhith94 commented on Worby10's forum topic Circuit design

    as rickharris said "There has to be more to the specification than this", maybe if you could explain why do you want to control a switch in this way ie. the aim of your project then, you could probably get a proper solution for this.

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    • Sound Blink - a Unique DIY Portable Speaker Companion
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  • Wow..its super cool. I'm pretty sure that no one could beat this costume in Halloween :)

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  • I'm very sorry to reply this late. I haven't seen your reply. Have been working on college thesis and couldn't spent much time here. I'm glad you like the alarm clock modification. Also if you want to make a simple timer you could build a circuit called Schmid trigger with 555 IC (in monostable mode). its super easy to build and takes less than 15 min to build also. You can adjust the timer by changing the values of the capacitor or resistor. If you want to avoid all those circuit building then you could buy 'timer delay relay modules' online. most of them comes with a screen to adjust the time duration.regardsAdhith

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  • Thank you very much. I'm glad you liked the VU meter PCB, its my personal favourite part in this project :) . Have seen your bucky touch project, its a very cool one.

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  • Thank you very much. I'm glad you liked it. Btw your instructable page is super awesome. I could surely learn a lot from your page :)

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  • Hello there, just thought to give a suggestion about it and I don't know it could help or not.first of all a great hats off to your son for his kindness to help his grandparents in their tough days.What you need in this project is a timer circuitry. Timers can be set using arduino modules with some codes according to your need but unfortunately I dont have much experience in it. also it need additional screen to set time according to your need or should be directly coded in it using pc.What I'm suggesting is a simple and cheaper method which deals with modifying a basic clock which has an alarm function in it. In that way we could set the time for the medicine in it just like setting the alarm but it actually drives a small dc motor(or any other) which dispenses the medicines. If the cloc…

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    Hello there, just thought to give a suggestion about it and I don't know it could help or not.first of all a great hats off to your son for his kindness to help his grandparents in their tough days.What you need in this project is a timer circuitry. Timers can be set using arduino modules with some codes according to your need but unfortunately I dont have much experience in it. also it need additional screen to set time according to your need or should be directly coded in it using pc.What I'm suggesting is a simple and cheaper method which deals with modifying a basic clock which has an alarm function in it. In that way we could set the time for the medicine in it just like setting the alarm but it actually drives a small dc motor(or any other) which dispenses the medicines. If the clock has multiple alarm function then one is enough. if it has only single alarm function then we need more clock for each time . say for morning, noon, evening. I could help you with this idea if you are interested.

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  • NO. In bridge rectifier there is no sharing of current between the two diodes. For a half cycle of AC mains, One diode conduct the positive terminal to the load and the other diode conduct from the negative terminal of the load. I.e the full current passes through both the diodes since they are in series. Since 1N4007 diode is rated to a max of 1A, it cant be used for your purpose. So to be safe up to 2A then move on to a diode with a higher current rating. you could use1N5400 diode family, which is rated for 3A.

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  • Hello there...Are you sure that your external potentiometer pins are conneted in the same way as that of the PCB mount potentiometer. The only thing that you have to see is that the pins are soldered in the correct place. Usually in the PCB mount type the pins would be inscribed on the outer blue plastic case as 1, 2, 3If your external pot when placed the rotary shaft upwards, are numbered from the left to right as 1, 2, 3Make sure that you have soldered the pins in the correct order and it should work fine.

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  • adhith94 commented on dymonxd's instructable Grow It Yourself | GIY

    Great work...Totally mind blowing Idea.

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  • hello there...just thought to give an opinion, i don't know it could help or notI hope its a Li polymer battery rather than a LI ion. The protection board which comes along with the battery isa big problem for your attempt. The white wire could be a thermistor wire but, it's controlled by the internal circuitry of the phone and thus we cant control it externally. The thermistor wire regulate the charging of the battery according to parameters like temperature and some other stuffs, so leaving the wire disconnected may not charge the battery (at least not fully). I have seen some guys bypassing the wires with resistors and all, but we cant predict the outcome which could even be an explosion. Since each batteries and circuits are different for different manufactures, replicating the bypass…

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    hello there...just thought to give an opinion, i don't know it could help or notI hope its a Li polymer battery rather than a LI ion. The protection board which comes along with the battery isa big problem for your attempt. The white wire could be a thermistor wire but, it's controlled by the internal circuitry of the phone and thus we cant control it externally. The thermistor wire regulate the charging of the battery according to parameters like temperature and some other stuffs, so leaving the wire disconnected may not charge the battery (at least not fully). I have seen some guys bypassing the wires with resistors and all, but we cant predict the outcome which could even be an explosion. Since each batteries and circuits are different for different manufactures, replicating the bypassing techniques also don't work well.one thing that you can do (which I don't recommend at all) is that you could replace the board with a normal one( that without a white wire) with same charging specification. Moving on to a totally different battery (that without a white wire) with inbuilt protection board is the much safer option.

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  • Good to hear back. Its really great that you are editing and keeping you project updated. That diode is a flyback diode and used in reverse parallel to bypass the voltage spike during relay operation.

    Great and innovative project. I think you have wrongly marked the diode terminals in the schematics. The straight line in the symbol is the cathode or the negative terminal and the other is positive terminal.

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  • hello TimI think this place is perfectly fine to deal with your topic. So understanding what you have written i think you could just wire the WeMo switch parallel to the soft power button and it works fine. I haven't worked with WeMo but i think its just a wireless relay circuit with opto couplers ,also i have no idea with what your switch is like and the connection. if you could help me with much more details and pics i guess i could try my best to help you.

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  • What I believe is that the authors must be free to express themselves and should have all the rights to customize their article according to their wish. What matters is the content, if its good and worthy then they are definitely sharing knowledge and ideas to others which i guess is the main objective of this platform. If he makes some profit from it let him do that, after all we all know that making stuff does need money to work it out and also the investment for the project could go high if we make mistakes or try attempting something cool and different. what I always think is that even if its a very small project it doesn't always means that the effort is less. supporting the authors is the best way to create a good instructable.

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  • I completely agree with Jonathanrjpereira. If you are going for series connection Increasing the voltage could increase the speed unless its within the the supply limit of the motor. If you are curious to see the actual specs and if you are in a position to see the motor specification (usually inscribed on the motor body) you could get a better idea of the actual voltage rating of the motor. if it seem fine then we could talk about the switching circuit. Parallel connection could increase the run time but it creates another problem. If two batteries should be connected in parallel then they should be always of equal voltage otherwise the higher voltage battery would uncontrollably charge the lower voltage one, which is not at all good for both the ones since its causes damage to its life …

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    I completely agree with Jonathanrjpereira. If you are going for series connection Increasing the voltage could increase the speed unless its within the the supply limit of the motor. If you are curious to see the actual specs and if you are in a position to see the motor specification (usually inscribed on the motor body) you could get a better idea of the actual voltage rating of the motor. if it seem fine then we could talk about the switching circuit. Parallel connection could increase the run time but it creates another problem. If two batteries should be connected in parallel then they should be always of equal voltage otherwise the higher voltage battery would uncontrollably charge the lower voltage one, which is not at all good for both the ones since its causes damage to its life cycles. So while doing parallel you should go for balancing of batteries using the appropriate BMS circuit board (battery monitoring system) for the batteries. good luck with the projectregards Adhith

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  • adhith94's instructable DIY ADJUSTABLE BELT SANDER's weekly stats:
    • DIY ADJUSTABLE BELT SANDER
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  • That's sounds good, using good old stuffs without throwing it away is always awesome and creative. I'm very glad that you liked the project.

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  • Thank you Alex in NZ. Your appreciation means a lot to me. My idea was to try something different and technical but the very poor response from the audience was something that I never expected and now I regrete in doing this experiment. I'm very Glad that you liked this article.

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    • SEAT BELT & AIR BAG SAFETY AWARENESS USING BAKING SODA & VINEGAR
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  • you are welcome, I'm glad that I could help

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  • sorry for the late reply deathofme. both will do.I have connected the input directly to one of the speaker(left speaker) since it was close to the vu board. Are thinking of any sort of distortion to the speakers when it is directly connected to the speakers?? Actually I haven't noticed anything like that. Since the vu meter input consist of an high impedance buffer i think it wont be a problem

    I hope this would help deathofme.

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  • Does PAM8610 power a 10w 4ohm speakers without heating??

    could the PAM8610 board power a 10w 4ohm speaker??

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  • Thank you for your support

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  • Great work tonep. I' m very glad to see an instructable using PAM8610 board. I have seen some other PAM 8610 board with heat sink. So what should i choose ?

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