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Slats weigh less, and cost less, and are easier to handle and fabricate. More importantly, slats allow airflow around the mattress. Mattresses sitting on solid surfaces get moldy or mildew. Also, slats provide more uniform support. That may seem counterintuitive, but in the US plywood only commonly comes in 48” widths, so there would have to be a seam somewhere...This is an old Instructable, and has literally hundreds and hundreds of comments. Many of these comments give dimensions for just about any size of bed imaginable, and I have even chimed in on quite a few of them.If you ever make it to south central MT, you can buy me a beer. I’m near Red Lodge these days.

Thanks for the photos, and glad you enjoyed it.

Awesome, thanks. Reuse is the best form of recycling.

They often will, for a small fee.

Oh, man. Has it really been that long? Thanks for the comment and photos.

I’m amazed at how it took off. I keep hoping to see one “in the wild”. I’d like to see pics of the porch swing.

Looks good. Thanks for the photos.

Most lumberyards can cut to order for a small fee.

Thanks for the photo.

thanks for the photo. With tall shelves like this, I recommend attaching them to the wall with a piece of wire or a metal strap, just in case.

An excellent variation. I've used the "thread all thread rod into the studs" method before to support thick live-edge walnut slab "floating" shelves, with 3/4" all thread. Thanks for the photo.

check out KevShelby or Synaptyc's comments above this.

glad to hear it has worked out for you, and we're still using ours too. Thanks for the photos.

thanks for the photos.

Were you using the right size of Phillips bit? If you could post pictures of the bit and the screws, that would help diagnose what went wrong.

As you go wider, cupping becomes more of an issue, but then, cupping is an issue with all boards. FJP will help with this, and is a good choice for the application. Edge-banded plywood would be a better choice, and if looks don't matter, MDF would work as well.Depending on your application, using two narrower 8" boards per shelf, and three uprights instead of two (like this: |-|-| in cross section) is also an option.Let me know how it goes.

looks good. Thanks for the photo.

The sag will be noticeable, about 3/16". I'd either use 2x shelves or use the 1x2s in the middle. You may also be able to just switch wood species and be fine. I'm a fan of The Sagulator (http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/) for calculating this kind of thing. I input 1x8 lodgepole pine with 40lbs per lineal foot load, and got 2/10" deflection.

Thanks for the compliment and the photos. I'm glad you enjoyed it.

Yes. I've taken mine apart 5 or 6 times to move it.

an interesting variation that I hadn't considered. Thanks for the photo.

Thanks. Let me know if you have any questions.

Either use 1x6 for the legs, and more screws (2 more per 1x6) or add 45° braces (1x4) to the inside of the legs of the original design, with 1x4 spacer blocks (inside the 2x4 frame rails) to make up for the difference in thickness.1x4s wouldn't be unsafe, really, just unstable, particularly over time, as the longer legs have more leverage against the screws.

It looks to me like they should work fine. Post a picture of the finished product!

Snug up the leg-to-frame screws a bit using a manual screwdriver or a cordless impact driver.

I'm glad you're enjoying them, and thanks for the photos.

Just make the slats 5" shorter. Everything else is the same.

Thanks for the photos, and I'm sure others will appreciate the measurements.

My wife and I together are over 400lbs.

Thanks for the photo. I'd highly recommend getting the book(s), lots of other bread recipes. I just made pitas last night with the basic recipe.

I am bigger than that, and my wife isn't tiny. No problems for years now.

thanks for the photo.