ajoyraman

This is an excellent student project, well done! It would be nice if you could provide the actual values of your calculations based on the formulas you have used as a validation of your design. And, you need to be more careful regarding safety.

Excellent work and very well documented! Thanks for sharing!

I use little boxes. But your idea is much better. Thanks for sharing!

With a 220V AC Supply the input circuit acts like a full-wave bridge rectifier and the voltage across C5 is approx 300V DC. To obtain this DC voltage with a 110V AC Supply it could be possible to replace the full-wave bridge by a voltage-doubler circuit. I have not tried this and one would need to experiment with the capacitor values for the doubler.

I have a Asahi Pentax with several interchangeable lenses. You have given life to them! You have my vote.

Great work! This Oscilloscope is worth building for sheer pleasure of understanding the intricacies of your design.

Excellent piece of work! Thanks for sharing.

Good project and well explained! Thanks for sharing.

This is the theory of DDS:N-bit phase accumulator will have 2^N stepsEach phase step = nUsing a clock frequency = fclockfout = n X fclock/ 2^N "use this for your calculation"The frequency resolution would be = fclock/2^Nand the number of sample points on the waveform generated ~ 2^N/n = fclock/foutIn this instructable we use a 24-bit phase-accumulator with a fclock of 372kHz, the upper 7-bits go to the look-up table which has 6-bit waveform data which is output to the 6-bit d/a. We would get ~15 waveform samples at 25 kHz

Good approach but be careful that the overall structural weaight does not go up.

Good work! on completing the details of your design, fabrication and operation. Just one suggestion: Could you work out and mark the ideal CG location so that when the location of components is suitably adjusted for this the plane would be statically stable could glide comfortably in case of power failure.

Excellent contribution to the aeromodelling fraternity. This could be a starter RC model for kids. Do complete the details of construction.

Good Idea! I have a spare set of pliers which are worth this modification.

Basic idea is great! Since we do not have a feedback on the switch status and as there is likelihood of false trigger based on calls not made by us, I suggest you include a time sequence. Something like, 2 calls in 2 minutes is ON and 3 calls in 2 minutes is OFF. Thanks for sharing!

Thanks Yes! It is not easy to get a really new idea. Doing it once again on Instrutables helps dissemination to a larger group.

Yes I agree that was another option

Dear Community Manager,Thank you for your inputs. I will make the changes on my instructable 'Quickly Check FUZE' and resubmit for your consideration.Meanwhile another recent instructable "USB Powered Electric Shaver" has been redone by me to meet your guidelines. Kindly check if you can make it visible.Many thanks,Ajoy Raman

The electronic-ballast generates the high voltage for startup using a high-frequency oscillator and so does not need the starter. However, normal ballast-chokes which are wound-inductors along with the starter create the high voltage for the tube to start up based on the principle that interrupting an inductor current suddenly creates a high voltage. Yes, the electronic ballast is more efficient.

Excellent use of the old K1000, thanks for sharing!

Cool Idea!

Good job, thanks for sharing!

I often collect old toothpaste caps, using them as knobs and legs for electronic equipment. Thanks for sharing this novel idea for additional use of these caps.

Thank you for your suggestion I will consider this.

Very well executed project!

The phone is a USB Host in OTG-Mode I do not think it will support I2C.

Dear Hackerh,Yes it should be possible to get a sampling rate of 200 kHz for a one channel oscilloscope. You would need to setup a timer interrupt at the desired rate and carry out A/D conversion on each interrupt. Save say 250 to 400 sample values and them read them out and display them.I have worked with the PIC in 'c' and the source code and methodology is shared please go through this.Happy programming!Ajoy Raman

Dear Joe,Thank you for your mail.Kindly consider using this launchpad from TI.http://e2e.ti.com/group/launchyourdesign/m/c2000microcontrollerprojects/665559The programmer is built into the launchpad.This would be a good starting point in working with the TMS28027 processor. Ti has also provided a free IDE (downloadable as well as Cloud based) with a lot of examples.Regards,Ajoy

You hit the nail's on the head! A practical application of your string art is a "loom Board" for electrical wiring.

Thanks for your comments. I have now implemented a stand-alone mode / USB PC GUI dual mode project.https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Uno-DDS-Audio-Signal-Generator/

Thanks for your comments. I have now implemented a stand-alone mode / USB PC GUI dual mode project.https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Uno-DDS-Audio-Signal-Generator/

As we are using an electronic ballast the Phase/Neutral do not come directly to the terminals of the fluorescent tube. In the circuit for the electronic ballast (my earlier instructable) you can see that the phase to neutral connection is rectified and fed to a half-bridge. The half-bridge output after a resonant inductor forms one output of the ballast. The other is the mid point of two capacitors connected in series between the rectifier positive and negative. So, we will not short the phase and neutral.

Appretiate the enormus effort and the excellent presentation!

Cool Idea and Innovative thinking!

Yes, you can use this circuit to directly check the voltage status on the battery terminals. Here is the BOM:

Your connection scheme is probably for a different type of ballast which does not need the filaments. The one I have used and tested is based on the wiring scheme from the manufacturer. The experimental results also show a large increase in tube current when one filament is shorted. The ballast of this type would probably be damaged if both filaments are shorted.

I am familiar with only the two types explained in the Instructable. I suggest you check this site for details of other types of fluorescent tubes: http://nemesis.lonestar.org/reference/electricity/fluorescent/index.html

Yes, your observation that the voltage across the filament should be 4-6 Volts got me thinking and I have now carried out a more accurate measurement of the electrical parameters. I added another step with this data. The resonant frequency of the half bridge is based on the 1.3 mH inductor and a 5 nF capacitor giving a calculated frequency of 62.4 kHz.

Use this method till you have time to get a new one!

Appreciate your views, I also wanted to explain the theory behind this hack.

Sorry for the earlier math which was based on measurements using a multi-meter which did not have required frequency response. I have repeated the experiments with an oscilloscope and added the results as a new step.The resistance is still ~ 8 Ohms but the current is much less 24 mA so the dissipation would be 0.67 W.In the setup I used a 10 Ohm resistor to measure the current, so it is possible to have an 8.2 Ohm 1 Watt resistor instead of the filament. However, the experiment shows that the current still goes up. This is probably a characteristic of the fluorescent tube with one end shorted.