ambrose.clarke

Hi- You can power the Arduino from the 5v and gnd pins (best option) or via the usb plug(ok) or 9v barrel jack(not good - gets hot). The code stays in the Arduino flash memory even when power removed. Last code loaded will run again immediately power is reapplied. Once code is uploaded to it No PC is required to boot the Arduino. If you use the 14v from the panel as described above it will be powered from the alarm battery in the event of a brownout.Great you are working on the software- remember that you only have only about 15milliseconds to reply to any of the alarm panels requests or it will give up waiting and report an rkp error - so avoid any long delays or slow libraries in any new code you write. All the best.

Thanks - Hopefully the new diagram helps - it can be breadboarded as shown or soldered following that layout to some stripboard.and yes - all the grounds are connected together - all the black wires in the diagram - B is the panels ground. Thanks for checking it over. All the best.

Hi - no problem, you were doing well to translate step 3 to that diagram - What I was suggesting was though, is you can skip all step 3 altogether - and just do Step "Step 4: The Alternative Hardware Interface (super Easy Version)"So - editing your block diagram you sent - it would look like attached. That's all you need. no resistors, no transistors.Let me know how you get on !

Those pieces are perfect - Remember you can do the whole project also with just an Arduino, the power supply module and one diode if you like - no circuit needed.Sending via gmail doesnt work since gmail changed their servers to something that wont work with Arduino - but I am working on a solution using a ESP32 chip.I have some more instructables up here - I have some more projects I really should write up. Sorry didn't reply sooner ... Thanks :)

Hi - Ill try answer all the questions:1) yes - the transistor has three legs - labeled B,C & E - that must be inserted correctly. Transistor can be damaged by inserting wrong (usually it will get hot once and then might not work again). So good to have a few spares :)2) 2N2222 is the name of a transistor that seems to be easier to get in USA - BC109 is the one you bought - both work in this circuit the very same - just check online for the pinout of the transistor you have - legs are in a different order for each transistor number. 3) You can ignore - its only needed if you want to play with the circuit simulator LTSpice I have in one of the screenshots - it adds to the emulator, some realistic capacitance (unwanted interference) from the long wires that happens in real life - so w...

Hi - Ill try answer all the questions:1) yes - the transistor has three legs - labeled B,C & E - that must be inserted correctly. Transistor can be damaged by inserting wrong (usually it will get hot once and then might not work again). So good to have a few spares :)2) 2N2222 is the name of a transistor that seems to be easier to get in USA - BC109 is the one you bought - both work in this circuit the very same - just check online for the pinout of the transistor you have - legs are in a different order for each transistor number. 3) You can ignore - its only needed if you want to play with the circuit simulator LTSpice I have in one of the screenshots - it adds to the emulator, some realistic capacitance (unwanted interference) from the long wires that happens in real life - so we can test if the circuit will work in real world conditions. Ignore that screenshot and go with the main circuit you have posted above.4) yes - same as in (3) these tell the circuit emulator the voltages it can expect - you can ignore the LTSpice screenshot and just go with the screenshot you have posted above.5) your circuit diagram - I didn't get to check it - but "ma.t" on this same page has kindly posted a picture his strip board, front and back - you could use that layout as that worked for him. Remember - you don't need build the circuit to get it working - you can connect the arduino directly to the panel using two wires and a diode - works exactly the same - and might be good first step to do to make sure you have that part working (arduino, software, psu and internet).All the best.

Thanks for question - issue is that, It used to work, but gmail now requires SSL which just will not fit into the Arduino. So you have to use an email server that doesn't enforce this option - you can set up a local smtp server at home using an raspberypi or possibly your internet provider has one you can use.

Hi - There is a separate code base and circuit for the HKC alarmshttps://github.com/OzmoOzmo/CastleHKCArduinoRKP

Thanks - send on the code changes you made and I can see about adding them to the code. I've only been emailing gmail and they didn't have issue with the format.For the web site - by default the address is this:http://192.168.1.205:8383 You will of course need to change to be an IP that's valid on your lan (eg. 10.0.0.205:8383 or 192.168.0.205:8383)Maybe try a different browser also - Chrome and Safari works fine. If its still not working - Check if there are any blocked network traffic (using the Browsers F12 menu to see console errors and network tab for network errors - might be a port you need open on your router)- All the best :)

Thanks for the kind comments-Edison’s are tricky to come by these days so here is the same project I remade using an Arduino or clone...https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Steve-a-Minecraft-Animatronic/:)

Edison’s are difficult to come by these days so here is the same project I remade using an Arduino...https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Steve-a-Minecraft-Animatronic/

Old Parallel port flat-bed scanners are a bit tricker to come across - but the lens in them is really powerful and makes a perfect magnifier just as is.

Hi- you need something like an Arduino- a pc might not be responsive enough - the protocol is very demanding on timing- the panel sends a message and the keypad must respond within a few milliseconds.Each message has a header with the keypad number it’s for and the purpose of the message- eg. check key press or display message- and the last byte is a checksum. This is all documented in rkp.cpp in the code. Have a look there and see if there are any questions- I’m currently porting this to Esp32 boards which are more powerful and have WiFi built in.

Hi-Thanks for the nice feedback!If you could send a photo of the back of the circuit board as well ill check it - thanks.Id also try the connection using the single diode method.. This will make sure the code and Arduino etc is all ok.I have a CD72 myself and it does work well with this panel. Good luck!

Nice project..."ESP-01 has only two pins.."With the ESP-01, you can use the RX and TX also as regular pins when not programming - so eg. two of the pins are easily usable for I2C devices like graphic displays leaving you two inputs free.There is also info out there for soldering on more wires to get access several more pins on the chip that are not connected be default.I like these ESP modules because they are so tiny and use so little power

Use the original pins from the lock and reassemble maybe - as long as the height and order of the pins in the lock aren't changed you can use the same key.Nice tip using the drill as a lathe - worth the instruct-able just for that.

Thanks for the breakdown - I find the China sites great for supplies like these at a fraction of the cost of the more usual shops, (at the expense of 3 to 4 week postage times) - this is a good site and would have most of the electrical, painting and magnet items on your expense sheet.http://www.banggood.com/ There are even cheaper sites (like aliexpress) - but I prefer the above as its just the one seller you are dealing with.

Yes - That would be great thanks :)This Ethernet shield is great to work with!

Yes - That would be great! Thanks for making great ethernet chips we can use with the Arduino :)If you let me know the link when its there I'll update the instructable with it.

You could try the calculators in the link below to get the correct value - as stated here, it will kind of work without the resistor (no resistor limits the lifespan of the LED) - but adding a resistor will make your AA batteries last longer as it will allow you to reduce the current taken from the batteries.https://www.instructables.com/id/Choosing-The-Resis...