charlieb000

I did think on my previous comment and did realise that if there is little or no internal capacitance and the flicker you are referring to occurs when you look from left to right across the display, you will certainly see flicker, even with an internal full wave rectifier. So I will retract that statement.As for having the flicker come back after adding more lights, it is most certainly true (capacitors have a finite capacity), but you have said the lights keep glowing after you switch off the display, this indicates you are using a massive capacitor and this issue will not appear unless you connect much more, and once it does you can use a full wave rectifier to keep it at bay without needing to increase the capacitance in the box.

Isnt it supposed to be 2x 50 or 2x 60 flashes because you have two halves of the waveform? You shouldn’t be able to see 100-120hz. Perhaps these sets you have bought are lacking a diode bridge? Your adaptor has just one diode and will definitely force the use of half a cycle - you will begin to see a flash after you add more lights, so use a diode bridge instead (and perhaps an input filtering choke too if the current is great).

Since a water pump is a bit too much effort, do the same but with insulation around PVC pipe which around the water pipe in question, and use a PC fan to circulate the air through the PVC loop. Yes this is warming air, but you are not warming the walls, ceiling or the air flowing past the house.

I somehow came across your instructible. I will volunteer a completely different solution. Its expensive heating air, you only need to warm the pipes! If you are willing to shell out some money then you can duplicate the pipes, wrap good insulation around them along the length, add a pump (one way valve in parallel to reduce stale water, pump pushes downstream) that periodically creates a flow in the loop. Then have thermometers on both sides and if it notices that the loop is getting a little too cool, have them turn on a heater and the pump until the whole loop is warmer. The heater only needs to outrun the cooling of the loop (now reduced due to the insulation), so perhaps it may drop your consumption to just 30W. Use a pelter and coolsink it to add extra heating capacity for your watt.

I saw on a CSI-like program they said printers put a unique code on the sheet, the prop that they used (from a B&W printer) had a tiny line nearer to a corner of the sheet. i looked for such a line on my prints but never found it... so maybe they do, maybe they dont, either that or the B&W printer has a high DPI so that the dots over the sheet are too small, or maybe the dots are now encoded into the way the printer renders shades of grey/colour (called dithering) - which might be present on printers you have previously thought were OK.