crazypj

Nope, just not to be added to a 'Trade School' curriculum or similar. Ifr you want to link it to a site that isn't a problem

You can buy'bulk' filter foam for motocross bikes, may be a better optionas foam filter never last more than a couple of years. Proper foam filter oil will trap more fine particles and also extends life of filter (to around 6 yrs in my experience if you don't have to wash it every weekend) K&N is a better option if you intend keeping Marlin for a while, I'm using some I aquired 'second hand' (used) in 1985

If you don't have a heavy duty / professional weedwhacker the torque from blade will break 3/16" drive cable (I tried it and broke it) You need at least 1/4" drive cable between power head and blade

I found those binding screws sold as 'Chigago screws' no idea why the name though.

Hummm.... That IS a two stroke cylinder. The process is exactly the same for two or four stroke but four stroke cylinders are easier as you don't have ports. Designing two stroke expansion chambers Is relatively easy, but, you need to make several for testing plus, correctly done it will amplify exhaust note so silencing becomes difficult without destroying the power you've obtained. At one time, several (most?) manufactures actually provided information on building tuned pipes (at least I know Kawasaki and Suzuki did) In the service manual for T305 there is a diagram of pipe.A lot depends on the engine your building for and the type of use. No point having a 500rpm power band on an MX bike as it would be almost unrideable but on a drag bike it's all you need

Just realised what your asking (was in a rush this morning) You want set up with degree wheel to measure port opening and closing points, simple enough, just fit degree wheel to crank end and set to TDC=zero. You can also do it by measuring cylinder then use trigonometry but that is way more difficult as you need to take con-rod length and angle into account.

I didn't think Dremel would have enough torque to polish anything, even with a small buffing wheel but I guess I'm wrong. It would be very handy for plastics as you have to keep very light touch or they will melt/smear. I'm going to scale it up for a full sized buffer (minimum 8" dia) Will probably need a few pairs of jeans though

This will work even on a cheap 'contractor' type saw. Even if blade can't be set exactly 90 degrees, (I haven't 'got inside' my HF saw yet) flip board and angles will match perfectly. Makes glue up slightly more difficult but I already figured out clamping boards flat.

Oh, forgot to mention, the blade that came with saw is actually very good, I've taken a 3/16" cut down side of 'pallet wood' boards an gotten a 1/16" 'veneer' with a smooth surface finish, better than some planers or joiners as multi tooth blade taking a tiny cut doesn't set up same type of vibration compared to knives on a 3" circle

Because I trained as a precision machinist I have various 123 blocks, parallels, etc so I use them in combination to get blade and fence parallel. Probably overkill setting to 0.001" but I find it quick and easy

Generally, no. your better off bending then 'barrel' plating a batchChrome plating will probably flake off on inside of bend and crack on outside radius Chrome doesn't like being compressed or stretched

Is aluminium robust enough for the dies? 7075 is harder than 6061 but unless hard anodized will still be pretty softI would think they will wear very quickly and have a series of flats if used with steel tube?

It's a lot easier to get a hole saw to cut aluminium if you have a couple of 3mm~1/8" holes drilled all the way through. After first 'marking' cut is made you have layout for circle use it to line up small drill. I've found belts slip on most drill presses using hole saw on even 1/4" plate plus, the hole saw can bind as things heat up.

I like the idea you mention just about all the pitfalls before starting plus it 'reads well' ;o)I voted for you in Arduino competition

Could the wheels have been made slightly wider and act like a 'ducted propeller?

I like the idea of recording 'exact' mileage of vehicle. It's always interesting to see just how far you can go. One day I'll open up truck instrument panel as I know it's about 13% 'slow' since I fitted different wheels and tyres and shows 'only' 106,000 miles at present when it should be showing around 110~112,000 (I didn't fit 'new' wheels until 50~60,000 (will have to check, I have it in truck records)

Not my tip but something Herm Narcissco (sp?) of Dime City Cycles does to make things simpler plus way less chance of damage. Fit a large hose clamp around stainless band before prying open., it prevents you going too far or screwdriver slipping and gouging exterior. Personally I found it an advantage to run some masking tape around band first as hose clamp can cause marks

The angle and length of handle will (should) vary according to your saw table height, your height and hand width. Find a handle you like the feel of and copy it as it's much easier than trying to make one from scratch

have you made one yet or is it just a concept with renerings?

Forgot to add, I find his commentary absolutely hilarious as well, maybe it's a Canadian/British commonwealth thing? KYDIAV ;o)

I didn't know AvE had done a test on those (he has done an awful lot of video's under different names) Anyway, great hack, I'm going to do it as soon as I get caught up with the gazillion other things I have to do( or maybe sooner as battery life sucks. I converted one set to use ordinary AA battery and used a switch but that ended up as a DRO on mini lathe tailstock

I use a 0.0001mm mechanical micrometer when I need really accurate

Yep, when an idea's time has come it will happen. It's not the first time I've heard this, about 25~30 yrs ago I 'invented' a 'pulley' to reduce friction on bicycle dérailleur gear change, less than a month later a 'commercial' version was being previewed in cycling magazines. Wasn't as 'good' as mine tough as it was only available in a 90 degree 'bend' I made various angles as POC but 90 and 120 were the only ones I used. They worked really well (and still do when cleaned and lubed) but as there was already something on the market I never went any further with idea

I'll have to check out the Freud spacers. CD's are a bad idea as they are polycarbonate and will allow 'slippage' plus need to be 'crazy tight' but for relatively shallow slots can work. Using 24t blades means you could have a minimal overlap to prevent 'corrugations' at base of cut but as you found out, sharp chisel works fine.

Second dealership I worked in was Suzuki-BMW-Vespa so I know exactly which one you mean. I was there before the 'Flying Bricks' (K series) came out, good motor , uber reliable (200,000+ miles) R series were always 'softer' tuned but for long distance riding, unbeatable.

Hi, The AMMCO sets I have do give some idea of stone selection and speed/rpm for different sizes but doubtful the cheaper sets give enough advice?What are you trying to do? If you want to get cylinders to first oversize for new pistons it's best to start with a coarse grit stone, 80~100 if available. Hone to within 0.002" then switch to a 240 or 280 grit. You can either buy a 320~400 grit 'FlexHone' or use 400~600 grit for finishing, if your building a semi race motor or turbo/supercharged I would use 600 grit rigid hone as it will give a finer smoother surface but takes MUCH longer than the 'production' machine shops methods which is why it isn't used very often nowadays.

The Lisle hone is almost exactly the same as Sunne which works well easy to use and VERY accurate after some practice (within 0.0001", yep, one TEN-THOUSANDTH of an inch) It's also a 'shedload' cheaper than the AMMCO's I have plus cheaper for consumables (and is more tolerant of mis-use / accidents) The 3 leg 'glaze busters' / brake hone's are worthless as a precision hone although work OK for intended purposeThe best way to hone by hand is with a low speed drill, preferably one you can use at around100~ 150 rpm while learning (most rigid hones have max rpm around 400~450 up to 4" bore) Slower is MUCH easier to control as you have to get the stroke (in / out of cylinder) synchronised to the rpm to get a 45 degree cross hatch. Because I'm always broke, I got a Harbor Freight ...

The Lisle hone is almost exactly the same as Sunne which works well easy to use and VERY accurate after some practice (within 0.0001", yep, one TEN-THOUSANDTH of an inch) It's also a 'shedload' cheaper than the AMMCO's I have plus cheaper for consumables (and is more tolerant of mis-use / accidents) The 3 leg 'glaze busters' / brake hone's are worthless as a precision hone although work OK for intended purposeThe best way to hone by hand is with a low speed drill, preferably one you can use at around100~ 150 rpm while learning (most rigid hones have max rpm around 400~450 up to 4" bore) Slower is MUCH easier to control as you have to get the stroke (in / out of cylinder) synchronised to the rpm to get a 45 degree cross hatch. Because I'm always broke, I got a Harbor Freight low speed high torque drill (plus coupons when it was on offer.) It maxes out around 450 rpm but I've never used it 'flat out'. I started an Instructable on 'How to Hone motorcycle cylinders' but got caught up with other stuff so never got any further

Sometimes it's way easier to get hold of plumbing fittings to convert into sheet than to get actual sheet plus price difference can be minimal (although extra work involved. Several years ago I needed a solid copper ead gasket for single cylinder motorcycle. Used a 4-1/2" coupler split and flattened. as it was cheaper than buying 0.050" thick piece of sheet at the time. Used exact same method to anneal though

'ordinary' can is thin and soft enough to cut with kitchen scissors. I like the idea of case hardening using graphite powder and transformers though, I've only ever used flame or furnace with 'Casenite' case hardening compound. For a one time use cutter for softer material it could be an interesting experiment

Oh, and although this is under creative common licence, it's for 'home use' not commercial use

Not really, Instructables isn't public/ tax money funded but relies on subscribers. With a subscription you can download 'anything' for free. I've never yet been in a position to become a paying subscriber but have had full subscription status due to my Instructables being featured. (Pretty sure I don't have 'pro' status at present, but I haven't tried downloading anything) You can bookmark link and re-read it as much as you want for free though. If you checked my profile, I was an instructor at a motorcycle school. I had many experienced but untrained colleagues, some real good who cared and others OCD about management policy. I did this as there are way too many 'technicians' who don't ave a clue how to actually measure. I took a great degree of pride in making sure 'my' classes could...

Not really, Instructables isn't public/ tax money funded but relies on subscribers. With a subscription you can download 'anything' for free. I've never yet been in a position to become a paying subscriber but have had full subscription status due to my Instructables being featured. (Pretty sure I don't have 'pro' status at present, but I haven't tried downloading anything) You can bookmark link and re-read it as much as you want for free though. If you checked my profile, I was an instructor at a motorcycle school. I had many experienced but untrained colleagues, some real good who cared and others OCD about management policy. I did this as there are way too many 'technicians' who don't ave a clue how to actually measure. I took a great degree of pride in making sure 'my' classes could actually instruct instructors who were doing things wrong It's part of the reason I was laid off when people who 'don't rock the boat' are still there even though they are totally inept in my opinion (and manufactures seem to agree, 'servicing' is now often restricted to oil and filter changes plus put some air in the tyres) less than 5% of students actually stay in the industry(2011 figures) plus, in my opinion, probably less than 1% will actually be 'good' at what they do (sadly, less than 10% of the 1% will actually make a good to decent living, no matter how good they are)

Thanks. Cantilevered desk is a nice touch.The desk I designed and 'built' isn't a 'square box' but designed to fit into a corner with a curved front for easy access to all the peripherals plus various shelves built in for storage, printers, extra monitors, etc

I was taught in mid 70's to use drill flute to get 'correct' rotation. Seen way too many 'sharp' drills done with 'your' method that have rear edge higher than 'cutting' edge. If it works for you, great but there are multiple methods for getting good cutting edge. If you have two equal spirals coming off work, you know it's (probably?) right

The main reason not to wear gloves while sharprning 'anything' is to be able to feel temperature. If it's getting hot, it's too hot

If bit changes colour you got it way too hot. The sparks will be red hot but I've only ever seen small (1/8"~3mm) get red at tip when re-shaping broken bits. Getting a 1/2" to 1-1/2" drill cutting edge red takes more power than average bench grinder can supply

LOL, yep, I 'designed' mine around 1999 and built most of it in 2001. Unfortunately, I built it in the room I was going to use it in and it got put into service before being finished as I was working 12+hr shifts for over 3 yrs. So far, 16 yrs later, it still isn't finished but has been 'upgraded' over the years. It's one good thing about having a LOT of space for components

Nope, you going to supply links?

I've seen people try that (and other drill 'tricks') never seen drill bit actually work on anything other than softwoods afterwards though

material 'softening' or over hardening edge is only a problem when you have carbon steel drills, maybe woodworking stuff? HSS 'should' be able to stand red heat and still cut (depending on Vanadium, nickel, chrome, cobalt, etc. composition) It's more likely that edge will get overheated then 'quenching' may cause micro-cracks in edge. I believe micro-cracks, chipped edges and weird sized holes was only an 'industry' issue in the 70's~80's though?

We had one in woodwork class, but that was early 70's LOL

Very good 'ible', don't remember last time (if ever?) I ever made so many comments to replies. For anyone 'complaining' about 60 degree angle, use a pair of hex nuts with flats together to get a 120 degree 'gauge'. I was taught that 'trick around 1974. Instructor told us, a sharp 120 is way better than a blunt 'correct angle'

That's a really good looking piece of furniture. I don't have a planer of joiner though (or anywhere to put them if I could afford them) I guess 'garage quality' workbenches would be a good practice for anyone wanting to try this without 'equipment'?

I would think the 'weakest' point would be the rear upright as it's being 'bent' in the middle from the braces? Even so, pretty sure it would take 1/2 ton or more on the front edge to actually damage things? (I'm not an engineer but I have worked on 'stuff' for 48+ yrs)

I think a couple of people missed the point. As far as I can tell the main expense was the black paint? Everything else recycled so I guess main reason for Instructable is to show what can be done without spending ton of cash? You also get some practical stuff out of it. From experience I can tell you, using a 'step drill' (the 'Christmas tree' shaped cutters) makes drilling very thin material much easier than a regular drill and for aluminium cans, the cheapest one you can get hold of will work fine.

This is a pretty educational Instructable.I've had the PA20 style since around 1980 and IWISS style for several years and done literally thousands of crimps on 1/4"~6.3mm spade terminals using 14 ~18 gauge wire without a problem, the IWISS style being slightly quicker to use. Because I'd had pretty good results I got the smaller IWISS style. I found the same as you, the dies seem to be the wrong size and impossible to get a good crimp.I'll try adjusting them as I kinda like the way they work, holding terminals better with the locking ratchet compared to PA20 style

The 'improvements' you came up with make this even better

I like this Instructable way more than I thought I would. Having 'loom' diagonal makes weave slightly 'tighter' than having 'square' ? Pins are 'closer' when turned?

That's pretty cute especially when you mention the size. You could have made a diagram of 'weaving' before starting and had vertical sections looking like cactus 'ridges' although they could probably be added later with lighter or darker wool?

Is the computer or Arduino running pot and LED? Seems a complicated way tp dim LED, BUT, the explanations of what and why are great

Looks good, I do a bit of aluminium polishing on motorcycle parts plus I've done quite a few alloy wheels over the years. It's a ton of work to refurb wheels plus keep them good afterwards. Very few paints will 'stick' to aluminium for any length of time, the oxidised surface prevents good adhesion, particularly when highly polished. Aluminium forms a surface layer of oxides a few microns thick almost immediately on exposure to air, (but, you know that) Professional polishing will leave a layer of very hard wax which will protect wheels for several months in good conditions but only a few days on 'salted' roads. I'm British, the dally/weekly freeze/thaw cycles mess things up quick as there is a lot of salt and water

You probably live in colder climate than me? Getting any type of refractory product in central Florida is difficult at best

works fine thanks

Where did the video's go?

I think a couple of 'armchair mechanics' are way overthinking things. (British definition 'Jobsworth') A working light will ALWAYS be superior to a non-working light. As a kit for repairing , probably illegal if it doesn't conform to all specs. As a repair, it's fine if it doesn't conform to all specs, I don't think any police are allowed to dismantle vehicle to check for conformity (maybe in Japan or German TUV testing station?) I know in Britain, the vehicle inspections don't allow tester to dismantle things to check suitability. All in all, I think it's a real good Instructable, not only from safety point but also aesthetics, 'broken' high level lights just look bad when only a few places light up

That's a clever idea, I have same bookends which are just for functional use and could easily be 'blinged up'

Thats an expensive pair of bookends, Wilwood caliper looks good but I would have used it for braking system. (LOL)I have damaged motorcycle brake parts that could be used and will make some of these one day

I guess I'm not very good at searching and found this by accident. Even though it's 7 yrs old now it's still a great Instructable, probably better than poster originally realised? Using tube to fit into curve of chain side plate will prevent it twisting ('racking') to a greater degree. As for drive cog, dismantle a free-wheel/gear assembly, usually plenty scrap at cycle shops they may just give you 2 (one for each track) Majority of cycling enthusiasts only use a few of the 6,7,8,9,10,11 gears but you need 'matched pairs (unless you only want to go in circles)

Isn't solid wood stronger than plywood? If the 'sharp' edge is rounded over slightly it won't get broken off, I would expect the outer layer of ply to 'come loose' over time?

Friend of mine used the term 'whirling pits'. I had no idea what he was talking about - until I did (and wished I didn't LOL)

I'll vote for it as it's a repair, not making something new with something old or re-purposing something but an actual fix for something broken

I didn't know about te salt 'trick'. Interesting . Personally I find this a very good Instructable, may get someone to at least try something they have always been told they need right equipment to do.

I never thought of swapping switches. Great idea as I have a few wireless 'mice' I really like the size/feel of with left button problem

I've got an 'old' Go-Pro that uses AA batteries. This could be a great mod as I could use a much better rechargeable Lithium battery instead of changing the rather expensive non chargeable AA all the time. I don't use it much as batteries have gone flat just where I wanted good video (on motorcycle it may not be practical to stop, start camera then get going again) I also have an old Nikon 'Coolpix' that is pretty heavy on batteries so it too will be getting modified. Imay well use RC batteries though as I don't have any old cell phones

I just checked eBay (it's where I get a lot of cheap stuff)Cheapest full ceramic 608 bearing is $6.99. Hybrid ceramic bearings are cheaper but it kinda defeats the purpose of having a bearing that can run 'dry' at high rpm. If I was making them to sell at the ridiculous prices I see I would use full ceramic though

It's quite old Instructable but very useful. for anyone working on motorcycle (or even watercraft, car mechanics, industrial engines, etc)I like the way you did this Instructable. I've seen circuit diagrams for PVA (Peak Voltage Adapter)which are much simpler but I've seen them fail relatively quickly (even Snap-On PVA which plugs into a 'Snap -On/Bluepoint' multi meter - a re badged Fluke) A lot of motorcycles use reverse EMF from ignition coil to monitor various things, fuel quantity being one 'rough guess' for injector system. Higher voltage is required for lean mixtures and the opposite for rich mixtures,the reverse EMF from ignition coil changing to match. Reverse EMF induces up to 350v in primary circuit

I looked at full ceramic bearings but they were more than 'just a bit more expensive' at about $17.00(US). The cheap 10 pack are pretty horrid though

Is it even possible to heat treat a brake disc? (other than softening it) I know they are tough but usually not the best grade of stainless steel and I don't think they are hardenable? (sp?) All stainless steels work harden do varying degrees, brakes rarely crack from being too hard after heating the only times I've seen cracks are on 'thin' (worn out) discs and that was after thermal shock (usually distorted real bad as well)

A sharp 60 degree drill is way better than a blunt 118 degree drill bit (that would be a 59 degree angle) I was taught to use a pair of hex nuts as a check as it will automatically give a 120 angle

Strange, the ones I've changed behave more like a high carbon spring steel? I’ve hit various things including 'tree' stumps about 5"~6" diameter and bent blades, they cannot be straightened 'cold' which I know mild steel will. I tried welding high speed tool steel edges (lathe parting off blades) but the main part of the blade got too brittle and they broke off (I would expect the weld or HSS 'edge' to fail first if blade is 'mild steel?) I now know I should have normalised blades after welding but didn't think it would be necessary at the time. (HSS isn't affected by 'red heat') I'm not an engineer, I trained as a precision machinist so have some idea of different material properties. I very much doubt they are in the 4340 range but they are a 'high carbon' even if t...

Strange, the ones I've changed behave more like a high carbon spring steel? I’ve hit various things including 'tree' stumps about 5"~6" diameter and bent blades, they cannot be straightened 'cold' which I know mild steel will. I tried welding high speed tool steel edges (lathe parting off blades) but the main part of the blade got too brittle and they broke off (I would expect the weld or HSS 'edge' to fail first if blade is 'mild steel?) I now know I should have normalised blades after welding but didn't think it would be necessary at the time. (HSS isn't affected by 'red heat') I'm not an engineer, I trained as a precision machinist so have some idea of different material properties. I very much doubt they are in the 4340 range but they are a 'high carbon' even if the 'lower end' of 'high carbon' range. BTW, these are for a ride on lawn tractor/42" mower not a walk behind mower, don't know if that makes a difference?

I saw a comment that mower blades are mild steel? Every time I've changed mower blade they have always been 'heat treated carbon steel' Even the cheapest ones I could get were still carbon steel (although the heat treatment may not be so good on real cheap ones?) I'm pretty sure the comment is wrong?

I'm going to make one of those but will use an old lawn mower blade as I have several busted/worn out blades ;o)

I was wondering what to do with the 'ded' blades I've accumulated over a few years. Could you give some advice on heat treatment needed?ThanksPJ

I built something similar around 2001. It's great to have ability to just rotate slightly to get to stuff. I added a few shelves though for extra storage

I used an ordinary Sharpie to make my first ever circuit board but, I used the Muriatic acid (pool supplies, Wal-Mart, etc) and Hydroxide (any pharmacy) etchant. It worked fantasically well, much better than I expected

I used an ordinary Sharpie to make my first ever circuit board but, I used the Muriatic acid (pool supplies, Wal-Mart, etc) and Hydroxide (any pharmacy) etchant. It worked fantasically well, much better than I expected. I was going to use Fritzing but actually ended up doing freehand pads and traces

I used an ordinary Sharpie to make my first ever circuit board but, I used the Muriatic acid (pool supplies, Wal-Mart, etc) and hydrogen peroxide (any pharmacy, dollar store, etc) etchant. It worked fantasically well, much better than I expected. I was going to use Fritzing but actually ended up doing freehand pads and traces