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The picture of the 9x14 plywood panel in step 3 has all the dimensions you need printed on it. Good luck.
I would be a little concerned about the router sucking in all the material that would be falling over it. I would feel better operating upside down if you had a dust collector. I personally watch mine like a hawk and so I would not operate it upside down. CNC jobs rarely go wrong, but when they do things go bad quickly.
Why not wrap the sides of the drawer in a layer or two of plastic wrap before gluing? This should eliminate the the drawer getting glued in and would probably make it slide out easier at the end. Anyway, great instructable!
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First fidget spinner I can actually get behind. Very well done!
I think you have the collector and emitter swapped on Q5 and Q6 in your schematic. The emitter should go to your supply and the collector should go to the load. PNPs will work with the emitter and collector swapped, but the current gain will be horrible (<<10). More importantly you will be limited to the reverse breakdown of the emitter-base rather than the much larger collector-base breakdown. The BC327 has a emitter-base breakdown of 5V, but your circuit will put 12V across the junction when off - not good!
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You don't really need that dimension but you can calculate it using Pythagorean Theorem: A^2 + B^2 = C^2Where A is the difference between the two heights (i.e. 0.5") and C is the length of the ramp (i.e 9.5"). Doing the math you get:B = ( 9.5^2 - 0.5^2 ) ^ 0.5 = 9.487"You can also figure out the angle if you want:Angle = sin-1 ( 0.5" / 9.5" ) = 3 degrees
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I've worked in the electronics industry for the last 27 years. Solder fumes are not good for you and can cause occupational asthma and other health problems, but generally that takes years of breathing fumes on a regular basis. I know plenty of technicians that never used a fume extractor fan and breathed fumes every day for years without any health issues. You are not breathing in lead, just the fumes from the melting rosin. Lead melts, it does not vaporize at soldering temperatures. I highly recommend a well ventilated area, but hobbyist should not be unduly concerned with the vapors unless they have a history of respiratory problems. The bigger issue is ingesting lead. If you do any soldering at all there will be lead left on your hands and bench. If you eat without washing your hand...
I've worked in the electronics industry for the last 27 years. Solder fumes are not good for you and can cause occupational asthma and other health problems, but generally that takes years of breathing fumes on a regular basis. I know plenty of technicians that never used a fume extractor fan and breathed fumes every day for years without any health issues. You are not breathing in lead, just the fumes from the melting rosin. Lead melts, it does not vaporize at soldering temperatures. I highly recommend a well ventilated area, but hobbyist should not be unduly concerned with the vapors unless they have a history of respiratory problems. The bigger issue is ingesting lead. If you do any soldering at all there will be lead left on your hands and bench. If you eat without washing your hands you will ingest lead which is the main cause of lead poisoning. Always wash your hands and wipe down you bench after soldering.On solder braid, I never buy "No Clean" solder braid. No clean braid lacks rosin which really helps the braid to effectively soak up the solder. It is a little messier as it leaves rosin residue behind, but that is easily removed with a little isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swab. The frustration of having to clean you board is nothing compares to the frustration of trying to absorb solder with "no Clean" solder braid.
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I have not used the suckit boot. For wood I don't see the need for the brushes. The boot sucks up everything without the brushes. The brush may be good for aluminum as the the spindal can throw the AL cuttings under the boot.
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