discostu956

Awesome! Thanks for the reply. I did wonder if increasing the distance would help or make it easier. I'm joining a group that does various tinkering projects, one of them being arduino that I'm interested but not experienced on. Might look into trying to get one of these up and going with their help on the programming and technical side.Looks easy to mount on the barrel.I'm wondering if a hall sensor instead of the light sensing might be better being metallic projectiles/bullets? I'm assuming would take a little bit of work for proper sensingReally appreciate the reply

I'm pondering the use of this for faster moving projectiles. Is an arduino fast enough to read things that would be moving up closer to 3000fps? If arduino won't do it, is there an alternative microcontroller that is fast enough?I'm obviously not well versed in arduino and only have basic electronic skills. Many thanks for sharing this. Looks great

I ended up buying some rosin blocks from China, called colophony or something. Did what you said in methylated spirits/ethanol. Has lasted me for years and still got heaps. A little seems to go a long way. Brush on bottle and use that to fix solder joints

I've spent many hours chasing grasshoppers with a small handheld net for bait while away trout fishing. Always a slow exercise. This idea is brilliant! Thanks for sharing

Simple, yet really useful and effective. Thanks for sharing this idea

Nice project. Looks useful for some projects I do.On the graphs you put up, there are multiple lines at the same wavelength, say the first image with a peak in the blue, yellow and green lines at around 140nm, with different intensity of each. Just wondering what the different lines are representing and why they are all showing at the same wavelength, rather than just the overall intensity at each wavelength (one line)?Thanks for taking the time to post this project up

Cheers

Thanks. Is going longer normal also? I put on my 10yo boots and toes hit the front. I do go bare feet a lot, maybe this allowed my feet to expand out rather than being restricted. A thought that has run through my mind more than once.I'll check out the website you mentioned also. Thanks again for the instructable and taking the time to reply

Thanks! That is exactly what I pictured would help. I didn't know what to call them, or even if they were a product someone made. I had plans to make something but it's ended up on the back burner

You make this sound almost doable! Great instructions.I've had a lot of trouble with boots myself, likely due to similar reasons to yourself with wide feet. Steel cap boots I've had to go way oversize so my toes don't rub on the edges, but then I'm waking around like I'm wearing clown shoes! Funnily enough my feet have grown larger as I've aged, both wider and longer, while my arch hasn't collapsed at all. Boots that were fine when I was 30 are 2 sizes too small now I'm 40.I can get boots that are wide enough for my forefoot/toes, but then the heel is too large and they slide around on my heel, both up and down and sideways. Makes it hard being sure footed on rough ground and the sliding heel obviously leads to blisters.Do you happen to know of a solution to the heels being to loose on co…

You make this sound almost doable! Great instructions.I've had a lot of trouble with boots myself, likely due to similar reasons to yourself with wide feet. Steel cap boots I've had to go way oversize so my toes don't rub on the edges, but then I'm waking around like I'm wearing clown shoes! Funnily enough my feet have grown larger as I've aged, both wider and longer, while my arch hasn't collapsed at all. Boots that were fine when I was 30 are 2 sizes too small now I'm 40.I can get boots that are wide enough for my forefoot/toes, but then the heel is too large and they slide around on my heel, both up and down and sideways. Makes it hard being sure footed on rough ground and the sliding heel obviously leads to blisters.Do you happen to know of a solution to the heels being to loose on commercial boots?Once again, great instructable with lots of info. Thanks for effort of writing this up

When did he die? Sorry to hear, he was pretty awesome. So much energy and so many things me played with

From a non electronics engineer type who only knows basic electronics, I think this idea seems great. Outside the box type thinking to have separate banks to achieve this.If you have the separate banks of batteries, does that mean there are separate solar panels to charge the different banks? I'm just wondering if it would possibly cause issues having different panels that might be shaded at times etc without the other panels to even out etc. Or is there a way of branching out the charging from total solar panel output to each bank of batteries?

Love this! While I've used the scales hanging off breaker bar idea for getting torque close when needed, or outside the scale on my torque wrench, doing a more purpose designed version like this is great

Yeah, fair enough. I I just figured you could sew it down at an edge by making it a smidge longer. My thinking with no zipper was that they seem to fall off without that part around your legs, so in my mind I'm never going to not use it. I see your reasoning though

Interesting. I cottoned on to using sleeping bags as quilts years ago, just zipping them up to half way and throwing my legs in. I'm extra tall and have trouble fitting in most properly. Fully unzipped like a blanket just doesn't work with these for some reason, they never stay on like you found. Too light I'm assuming, but the foot pocket deals with it. When it's really cold I'll zip them up all the way, but find the same as you with bag miraculously rotating around me during the night.How come you went with the zipper on the bottom part and draw string at the bottom? I thought it would be easier just sewing all that up permanently

I've read about doing this so many times, and tried it just about every time I've read about it, but I just can't get it to work for me. I've tried starting with sanded aluminium etc, then scratching through that. Still no go. What am I doing wrong?

Cheers

Thanks

Do you mind explaining what the ubidots and iftt sections are actually for? I'm assuming it's to control the device, but I'm not familiar with these types of things and only guessing

Love the simplicity of this!

Just make sure you add the vitamin c tablet after giving the iodine the 30 min or so to work. I'm assuming that once the iodine has reacted with the vitamin c it will no longer be effective against bacteria etc as it not reactiveNice tip, one that will help a lot of people I'm sure

Pfff-$5/gallon-urine is free!! Not that cheap here in Australia. I'm not bothered by the urine myself, but understand your point. We call it adblue over here-got the same name there?I had always suspected it was the urea killing the fungus, but had never looked into that part. You sound like you have some experience with this. Mind sharing your experience, or where you gained your knowledge etc? I'm always interested in learning more

That's neat! Thanks for posting this up. My mind does debate making one when purchase price isn't that high, but I understand the desire to make it, and you did a good job. I share similar thoughts but just lack the motivation and energy these days!

Thanks for the replies all. I've taken to storing our butter on the bench/counter. Lasts for ages before an issue and it's nice and soft therefore. Only with salted butter thoughI thought similar to you Jim in that the impurities in it are what would give it a particular taste. To get those impurities out is then the process that you mentioned in your other comment about soap making I take it?I seen to always be considering food preservation

That's great, thanks for sharing. Always wondered how it was done but never took the time to look. I remember reading about pimmecan (probably spelt wrong) and the fat was meant to not go bad/rancid in that after being rendered. Is that always the case, and you're just being careful storing it in the fridge?

Yes, that helps, thanks Jannie

I recently saw people digging fence post holes using a pressure cleaner to break up the ground and vacuum truck to suck it all out. Looks a lot faster, and supposedly makes a cleaner hole. I couldn't think of a way to do this at home, until now! Great idea, thanks for sharing it

I've been thinking about making a press myself, but keep putting it off. You've made it look simple! Thanks for sharing

What meals do you use the dehydrated spinach for?

I use them for trout regularly. I'm sure they would still work in the salt water for some fish, thigh I've never tried.Incidentally, for some reason this trick only worked on small worms, the big ones ignored it behind our place here

This is great instructable!! Educational, and done in a way that makes it seem fairly easy for anyone to attempt. You've explained the why as well as the howYou've also managed to achieved something that I thought was impossible-make something relatively useful out of a fidget spinner!!

I'm in a very similar position to you-scored an old glass canoe off the cousin in law. Its the size of a whale and weighs about the same. This one actually has sheets of glass peeling off in various places, I'm not sure how or why. It's only taken me about a year to get to the point of trying to glue down those bits and put some new gunwhale timber on there. My short burst of motivation was short lived though when the epoxy I was using started a small version of thermal runaway and set before I was able to even finish pouring it on. That was fun trying to chip all that off!Need to get this finished before christmas

Do you dissolve it in something, it just use it as a powder?

Interesting, thanks

Interesting, would be quite useful I reckon. So this evens out the oscillations to give a readable output? How do you go about the adjustment with the variable resistor?

That's really interesting. I spend a lot of time around the ocean myself, getting hands wet when fishing etc. It never cured my fungus, but I could have sworn that things were at least better when I would be away getting salty everyday. I think I need to spend some time in the Caribbean to test that part out! I'm actually starting to think that the different types are killed by different methods, as I've found with my nails that I will kill it off and then it will come back later and the method I used before won't work. Tinnea between my toes hadn't come back at all though. I'm keen to test thyme oil out when I can buy some, as nail fungus is giving me a little trouble at the momentCheers for your comment

I was going to suggest storing them separately myself. With both gases in one container, all you need is one good jolt to kick that reaction off turning it all back into water

Going through my comments, I just rediscovered this-and I really could have used this today!! I will make this up before I need it, and stuff another project from something not being centred accurately. Now if I just had a way to ensure the table was exactly 90deg to the drill......

I didn't watch the video, so if they look like cold joints on there then I can't argue. Unless it's lead free solder, that stuff seems horrible to work with and all of my joints look cold with it. Always seem strong, but the look they have puts me off.I've got one of those little Weller gas irons, works really well. The part about this that really interests me is the principle. I wonder if it would work well with the solder paste for reflowOne thing I should have added is that for my method with the solder blob on the iron tip, you need to use flux on the end of the cell. I use added flux everywhere anyway, it certainly doesn't hurt and there are many instances where the solder just won't flow and bond without it, even using flux cored solder.

I would think that the heat from the solder itself would heat up the metal enough for it to bond properly. I often make joints by having the blob of solder hanging off the tip of the iron, holding it there long enough for the whole part to heat up (1-2s normally), as long as it's a hot enough iron. I prefer this for soldering direct to battery cells as it doesn't heat the cell up as much as transferring the heat through the end of the cell to the area being soldered.

He is into radio control, meaning he would be pretty experience with Lipo and safe use. Additionally, he mentions the current that this drew in use, about 5a I think, which is well within the specs of most Lipo cells designed for radio control. 1a cell discharging at 5a means 1/5 of an hour it would last 12 min, pretty much the time mentioned in the article (that would be 5c discharge, cell was rated for 20c, or 20a for a 1 amp battery). I'm sure we have all seen small radio control helicopters or quads that discharge their whole capacity in half that time, meaning they are discharging at twice the rate of this tool, or closer to 10c....and perfectly safe. I don't see any issue with this tool, it's a lot safer than many rc planes

I was wondering how you would drill out the hex part nice and centered-very neat way of achieving that without a lathe! That is certainly a to I have taken away.Thanks for sharing. I like seeing how others get around these sorts of repairs

Congratulations!So this cooker is like a slow cooker.....but really fast?

Good tip on the sunflower oil, thanks.Do people not break the chips off? I'm surprised about that one as I thought it was rule number 1

Very interesting! Thanks for sharing

Awesome-thanks for sharing!

Interesting, cheers

Is that sharp of an edge really necessary on an axe? something I've always wondered

That is very neat! I like the thinking with this, will have to make one eventually. Thanks for sharing

Will do. I was also meant to ask, is the temperatures you gave in Celsius or Fahrenheit?

But sous vide uses vacuum bags, and stirs the water...doesn't it?I like this idea, keen to give it go. Thanks for sharing. It's always put me off due to being complicated

Informative, thanks for sharing

just noticed the second dowel, so make that half a revolution

I have long pondered something like this, thanks for sharing. So just to get this straight, the fly ball spins around for one revolution of the pinion, then gets tangled around the dowel, slowing the rotation, then unwinds from the pressure on the main gear, spinning again for another rotation. Is that how it works?The part that held me back in my mind was slowing the rotation without having it geared in a way that meant you would have to hoist the bucket back up really often

ooh, I like this idea! Thanks for sharing. well give this one a try

I like that strut holder idea! Bonnet (hood for you guys "over there"!) struts on my car are unreliable. Perfect solution as I think I can store them on the strut still

Very tricky! This will come in handy in the future I'm sure. Thanks for sharing

That is very handy to know. Thanks for sharing

Thanks for taking the time to post these 3 tutorials. Very informative and well written. I did know a lot of what you posted early on, but the later stuff was mostly new to me. Cheers

Nice and informative, thanks for posting. Would you say that forging rather than stock removal saves any time, or take longer etc?As for future instructables, heat treatment is one that interests me

Thanks for that. That's helpful. Lots of good info here and the comments

Very intriguing-dry shampoo. Interesting read, thanks...Not that I can see myself using it! (I'm lucky to use a comb)

Thanks. Big help. Now I just need some way of heating to above that temp in the actual bag

Actually, have a question. I have been thinking of making meals in a bag for hiking etc. So I gather from what you have written here that my two options are to have meals that are acidic at 4.5pH or lower and just boil, or alternatively have vacuum bags that can handle temps higher than 121°C. Would that be correct?If I was using high temp vac bags, would it be suitable to seal the bags and then heat them to the higher temps?Thanks in advance

This is a great introduction. You have answered many questions I've had for a while, and that people in Facebook canning groups etc don't seem to be able to answer. Thanks for taking the time to post

This is very cool! I'm always deforming the plastic jars trying to microwave it just enough, but it's always stinging hot in one part and still cold in another. Simple solution

Interesting that you don't use any refractory and have no issues. I gathered from all other posts that it was necessary. I'm looking to harden a few knife blades so don't want to invest to much currently, then I came across someone doing it in the dirt.....suits me!

I was wondering if the chemistry was different to coal, and therefore if charcoal would get hot enough for forging etc

Thanks. Interesting. I was wondering if they used it as a fertilizer for growing crops as well

Can you heat the water using sunlight on top of the room you are using? would reduce running costs at least. I've had a very similar idea for warming the house, except our house gets absolutely zero sunlight during winter. Thanks for sharing

Wow! Very informative. While I'm pretty confident with led's and driving them, this was a very informative piece covering a lot of information. Thanks for taking the time to put this up

My wife is reading that now, so I should ask her, but....what did they use the charcoal for?

Nice, thanks for posting. I'm trying to remember what I was reading, but it was about either smoke or a flame actually being a plasma, I can't remember which. Demonstrated with a magnet and microwave from memory. Sparked my interest to go and look that up again

Cheers. This link has some of the images I remember from the article I'm thinking of, but I can't find the original at the moment (at work)http://www.askamathematician.com/2013/05/q-is-fire-a-plasma-what-is-plasma/still interesting to see and read aboutI would be keen to read about the other states of matter also

Your English was better than a lot of people who speak it as a native, so no need to apologise for it.Nice instructable. I imagine with the transformer it wouldn't be real cheap/easy to do this with a lot of bulbs. I've read about capacitor circuits being used to control led current with ac power, and I've noticed it's used in a fair few led light bulbs I've bought for the house. Have you any experience with these circuits? I've just noticed a lot of these have stopped working, want sure if it was the circuit or because they are cheap Chinese bulbs

Nice result! The dremel didn't wreck the temper near the edge?

That branding looks awesome on the timber! I'm not sure if your intending it to be visible, but I think it would add a great touch on some styles with that on the front. Nice job making the brand too

That's awesome! Nice experimenting and results, well done

That's pretty impressive! Nicely done