dnicky2288

Nice question. A couple of things to note. To my knowledge, the M5StickC usually comes in a box with its own little USB-C cable. The M5Stick Plus does not come with a cable in some cases (hope they would provide one).Regarding the theory of leveling the print bed, the way that a 3D print bed is leveled is by measuring the distance between the print bed and the extruder tip. Whenever the print bed touches the extruder tip, force is exerted. So as you said, even if your FSR has a thickness of 0.5mm, it should technically be fine if the nozzle squeezes against the print bed. Understand that the FSR is designed to measure force, not distance. So this application would be ideal, even if the friction by using the FSR feels more than your A4 sheet with 0.1mm thickness. The sensor values are gene…

Nice question. A couple of things to note. To my knowledge, the M5StickC usually comes in a box with its own little USB-C cable. The M5Stick Plus does not come with a cable in some cases (hope they would provide one).Regarding the theory of leveling the print bed, the way that a 3D print bed is leveled is by measuring the distance between the print bed and the extruder tip. Whenever the print bed touches the extruder tip, force is exerted. So as you said, even if your FSR has a thickness of 0.5mm, it should technically be fine if the nozzle squeezes against the print bed. Understand that the FSR is designed to measure force, not distance. So this application would be ideal, even if the friction by using the FSR feels more than your A4 sheet with 0.1mm thickness. The sensor values are generally more accurate and forgivable than your "feeling friction" on a piece of paper.Hope this helps!

Great! I'm glad it worked out for you! Yeah the "Calibrate" and "Off" text are labels. They don't change...its just to indicate the button's function

The Arduino IDE doesn't know what G10 by default. You need to first install the ESP32 core for Arduino. To do that, click File -> Preferences. Then in Additional URLs, put in this line: https://raw.githubusercontent.com/ espressif/arduino-esp32/gh-pages/ package_esp32_dev_index.jsonThen click Tools -> Boards. Then click Board Manager and type in esp32. Install the v1.0.4 core and then make sure M5StickC is selected as your board. Check your COM port as well.If it still doesn't know what G10 is, just replace it to 10. That is in case you did everything above.

That's a great question! I actually got an M5StickC Plus recently. I would say yes you can. Technically you simply have to use this include statement with the code instead of the old one.#include<M5StickCPlus.h> The M5StickC Plus has a larger display. So that means the layout might look smaller, but I might add a version that is more specific to M5StickC Plus in the future.

The pins can be soldered to if you are quick enough. A limitation of one's soldering skill skills not be considered as limitation of the project. If you do desire, you can buy female header pins for 50 cents

Yes, I have considered that. It is not always necessary to heat the extruder when leveling the bed. I don't know who told you that was required. But if you desire to use this tool with a hot extruder, then you can apply a thin strip of Kapton tape on the FSR sensor first. Don't worry, I've tried this and it does not melt the sensor. It's been working hundreds of times by now without any issues.

Also, some of us have blue tape or a form of kapton tape on our 3D printers. My tool can be helpful if you don't want to mount things to the printerbed or have multiple 3D printers. You only have to build it once

Ah, I see you are running the Arduino IDE in Linux. Your error basically indicates that your Linux does not have the library needed. I hope this suggestion on this link can help you solve the problem: https://github.com/espressif/esptool/issues/528

When you have a servo valve amplifier board that takes care of the PID system in an analog setting, you don't need to tax the Arduino with more things to do.

This is the fun of researching and looking through various distributors and suppliers. You can't get part numbers magically. You will have to know what your requirements are such as voltage input, drive method, air connector diameters, etc. There are 5/2 and 5/3 valves that would do this, however, you would have to brush up on pneumatics as a field to appreciate the entire concept. If you don't know where to start, I would suggest finding tutorials and books about this.

The parts are recycled pneumatics and they are not easily sourcable. If needed, look up double-acting pneumatic valves with at least 1" bore and 12" stroke or bigger. Make sure your connectors and fittings are matching. There is no fixed parts list to achieve this since you can do the same thing with a multitude of parts!

Low pass filters can be simple to make. You just need to use a resistor and capacitor. However, you will need to apply the RC equation to get the voltage as smooth as you want.

Because pneumatics can provide much more torque, stability, and velocity. You woild not even want to think of a screw drive linear actuator. That would not be enough to simulate the motion profile of many planes.