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gtoal

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  • gtoal commented on gtoal's instructable Scratch!
    Scratch!

    yes, and I've contacted you by email. I hadn't checked in here for some time and only found your message last night.

    the 3rd image in step 1 is just the filtered version of the original - it has not been processed to fill in the white areas with paths for scratching. If that's all you need it's quite easy to do with the software from the "Coherent line drawing" paper.

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  • MCP41HVX1 Digital Potentiometer for Arduino

    That's a good find - spec sheet definitely says -5V to 5V which is the critical item - and it looks like the X9C102 with 10K pots would fit my application, but ideally I would like 256 steps and this only has 100. I did actually recently find a digipot that works, which is the DS3502. The spec sheet says the pot inputs should be between 0V and 15.5V but I plugged one in and tried it with -5V to 5V and it worked! It has 128 steps so good enough for the job (which is to impersonate the mechanical pot in a Vectrex joystick). Sounds like it would work for you too.

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  • Easiest RGB LED Strip With Raspberry Pi!

    I really don't know, but areas I would look at: have you changed the pullup/down defaults at any time (pigs pud command)? Or changed the pin from an output to an input? Is there any possibility of a wiring short? Can you eliminate the amplifier from the circuit and just look at the GPIO pins with a meter? - do you see the same things? Does the problem also show when you use pigs pwm instead of pigs w?

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  • MCP41HVX1 Digital Potentiometer for Arduino

    Do any of these digipots work with an RH of +5V and RL of -5V? I can find chips with a *range* of say 15V but they all seem to be based with RL at 0V gnd or above.

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  • gtoal commented on rschoenm's instructable Large Wooden Nuts and Bolts
    Large Wooden Nuts and Bolts

    This is exactly what I need to finish a table I started making some years ago from a Queen Anne table stand and a large disk drive platter. I always thought the way to attach the platter to the stand should be with large wooden bolts but I had no idea how to make them and certainly couldn't find anything appropriate to buy.

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  • Butter Garlic Naan (Spicy Indian Flat Bread)

    Glad you posted that clarification, I was on the verge of substituting Nutella :-)

    Not really. Curd is curdled milk (using acid), yoghurt is fermented milk (using bacteria). Yoghurt might be a substitute but it is not the same. It's easy enough to curdle milk though, as I discovered as a child when squeezing a lemon into a glass of milk in the hope of making lemon-flavoured milk!

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  • gtoal's instructable Re-use Worn Plastic Scrapers's weekly stats:
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  • Convert Your CNC to a Macro Photography Rail in 30 Seconds Flat!

    No updated but the original binary still works and can be found at https://web.archive.org/web/20070126012355/http://www.hadleyweb.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/CZM/Manual/Install.htm with the sources at http://cholla.mmto.org/minerals/photos/stacking.html

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  • Low-Cost, Arduino-Compatible Drawing Robot

    I wish I'd spotted this when it was posted! Nice work on building your own turtle. If you haven't already seen it, have a look at our version: https://www.instructables.com/Etch-a-Sketch-LOG... - would have been nice to do a LOGO for your turtle. Full circle!

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  • Convert Your CNC to a Macro Photography Rail in 30 Seconds Flat!

    The CNC is a Sainsmart 3018 and the controller board is their GRBL one. I do appreciate the offer of a free board but really there is nothing at all controller-specific in the way I'm using this. The G-Code to move the Z axis is pretty simple - something like "G0 Z15" for example to set the Z axis to 15mm above the surface. You could do it trivially with the Jog controls of any package.

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    • Book Edge-Trimming Press/Comic Press/Flower Press
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  • Book Edge-Trimming Press/Comic Press/Flower Press

    I printed it on 11x17 - it's folded in the middle and center-stapled to make pairs of 8.5x11 pages. I'll be happy to upload the files somewhere if anyone wants them, but I suspect it's very much a minority interest! I was quite pleased at finding some large silvered card that let me reproduce the original cover almost exactly.

    Thanks, though I did slightly gloss over that I hand-drilled the through-holes a little off-true, which meant that the bolt heads were not perfectly level (though they were countersunk which is what matters). You can see it in the photos if you look closely. Hence the strong recommendation to use a drill press if at all possible.

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    • Convert Your CNC to a Macro Photography Rail in 30 Seconds Flat!
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  • How I Sharpen Chisels and Plane Irons & My Sharpening Station // Woodworking

    And a shame you misspelt misspelt. (It has one 'l') https://www.grammarly.com/blog/misspell-mispell/ ;-)

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  • CNC Etch a Sketch (and Video Player)

    shaft couplers would reduce the backlash quite a bit compared to belt drive. you might be interested in the EasiLogo project here as a way to drive your display, especially since it's targetted at kids. ( https://www.instructables.com/Etch-a-Sketch-LOGO-EASiLOGO/ )

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  • Back to School Wardrobe on a Budget!!!

    not just for kids :-) The 'V' is for Vectrex. (an old video game console)

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  • The Secret to a Perfect Hot Glue Mold

    Will definitely try this. I've been using Instamorph to make moulds and Oogoo to fill them but never been 100% happy with the technique and keen to try an alternative.

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  • 7 Things to Fix or Do With Oogoo

    A thought just occurred to me. Baking powder + caulk => flexible rubber, and Baking powder + superglue => hard brittle plastic ... I wonder what you would get if you mixed baking powder, caulk *and* superglue...??? Worth an experiment...

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  • yes, that looks very possible. the extra W and even WW lines became available after I did this project but you should be able to extend it in the obvious way. Any standard GPIO that isn't in use internally by the Pi should be OK, there's a dozen free ones that are easy to use. Just pick one, I have no special favourite. Obviously you'll also need to tweak a script to drive it. Oh wait - did I update this project to only use the built-in PWM? If I was using hardware PWM then I guess you would need a spare hardware PWM pin if there is one, but if it's software PWM then any regular GPIO would do.

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  • gtoal made the instructable Milk Jug Skulls
    Milk Jug Skulls

    Shows how much milk I drink every day!

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  • Appreciate the code posting, shame it got mangled by Instructables, though would have been much worse if it had been python and lost the indentation!

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  • I'm not a python programmer, but I imagine any basic GPIO tutorial such as https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/raspberry-gpio/python-rpigpio-example could be modified to suit.

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  • In my version of this project I used a rechargable 9V battery which worked quite well (and that was in a smaller housing). https://www.instructables.com/Retro-Pi-Cam/

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  • gtoal followed cnc and raspberry-pi channel
  • I've recently got access to a laser cutter at our local university's Fablab. Attached to this comment (I hope) will be an SVG file you can use to engrave and cut a set of ASL tiles yourself. (Depending on your laser cutter driver, you may need to tweak the red cut outlines to use a thinner line style)

    here are some of the lasercut tiles:

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  • I'm not 100% sure but I suspect this may be urea hydrochloride - made from urea and hydrochloric acid.

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  • Thanks - the best thing about Instructables is when someone builds something you've suggested! It's coincidental that you just now posted this - this week I ran LED strips all round my living room for use as power-failure lighting and pulled this exact hardware from my box of parts to drive it. I'll be setting up a 12V lead-acid battery on trickle charge (same as most burglar alarm systems) and am contemplating the same wiring issues as you have. In my case I've decided to use a 12v->5v USB adapter for the Pi, and house the amplifier and Pi (ZeroW, if it works) on a shelf close to the strip to keep the wiring short & tidy. PS If you search around on Amazon or eBay you can find better prices for the same amplifier - currently $5.99 w/ Prime shipping is the best I can see…

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    Thanks - the best thing about Instructables is when someone builds something you've suggested! It's coincidental that you just now posted this - this week I ran LED strips all round my living room for use as power-failure lighting and pulled this exact hardware from my box of parts to drive it. I'll be setting up a 12V lead-acid battery on trickle charge (same as most burglar alarm systems) and am contemplating the same wiring issues as you have. In my case I've decided to use a 12v->5v USB adapter for the Pi, and house the amplifier and Pi (ZeroW, if it works) on a shelf close to the strip to keep the wiring short & tidy. PS If you search around on Amazon or eBay you can find better prices for the same amplifier - currently $5.99 w/ Prime shipping is the best I can see on Amazon. Also there are now RGBW amps with an extra channel.

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  • (I know I'm a bit late to the party - hadn't spotted your entry before) - this isn't a perfect copy of the Dutch version but it's in the right direction: https://www.instructables.com/Napoleon-Marching-Bread/

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  • do you know if the e-paper driver supports the 3-colour version that is the only one that seems to be sold now? (it also has red as well as B/W)

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  • gtoal commented on jessyratfink's instructable DIY Gold Slime

    Did you search for the name of the product and the tag "MSDS" - they're obliged to post a safety information sheet with full details. I've reverse engineered and/or compared many products this way!

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  • Would a dehydrator (eg for fruit, beef jerky etc) work for rejuvenating printer supplies that had been left out for a year?

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  • Is it possible to use ID_SC or ID_SD to get an extra pin for A15, in order to write 512 bit EEPROMS (64K x 8)? Which EEPROM would you recommend for a 64K x 8 project? Looks like you've found one for your project that doesn't require 12V to program or clear?

    Answering part of my own question - it looks like the pins can be used on Pi B's prior to the Pi3.

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  • gtoal commented on gtoal's instructable Retro Pi Cam

    Current state of the project is that I've been buying more cameras on eBay when they show up under $20, and am still waiting for Pi Zeroes to become available in quantity at a fair price, with the plan to do a bulk build of at least ten cameras at once. By the time I do that, I'll have re-worked the software into something worth sharing with others. I've bought a lux sensor chip for testing with but haven't used it with the camera yet (mainly because I dismantled the camera and haven't rebuilt it with the Pi Zero yet - the pi zero camera connector broke) and I've got a couple of very small displays that I'm trying to see if I can fit inside the viewfinder.

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  • I'd already brought one of these up before seeing your Instructable - the instructions at Google's own site are quite clear: https://developers.google.com/assistant/sdk/develo... - that's what I used and it all installed with no problems - even the "OK Google" recognition came pre-configured and worked first time. The only extra thing I had to do was have it start on boot, which is a 1-liner in /etc/rc.local.By the way you'll find that Ps3 Eye cameras are great for this - they have a 4-mic array that's very sensitive (as good as my Gen1 Alexa) and you just treat it like an ordinary mic - all the clever noise reduction stuff is done transparently in the hardware, plus you get a pi-compatible USB camera thrown in for free that you can use separately with the 'motion' package. Th…

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    I'd already brought one of these up before seeing your Instructable - the instructions at Google's own site are quite clear: https://developers.google.com/assistant/sdk/develo... - that's what I used and it all installed with no problems - even the "OK Google" recognition came pre-configured and worked first time. The only extra thing I had to do was have it start on boot, which is a 1-liner in /etc/rc.local.By the way you'll find that Ps3 Eye cameras are great for this - they have a 4-mic array that's very sensitive (as good as my Gen1 Alexa) and you just treat it like an ordinary mic - all the clever noise reduction stuff is done transparently in the hardware, plus you get a pi-compatible USB camera thrown in for free that you can use separately with the 'motion' package. They cost between $2.50 and $4.50 used on eBay and are available aplenty at the moment.

    Doesn't snips have to be trained per speaker, and since they have a commercial tier I infer it is not open source..? The thing about using Google is that it's a major major improvement in recognition quality over what has gone before and makes voice projects finally practicable, which has never been the case with systems with higher error rates.

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  • Yes! That is indeed the answer I was looking for - thanks!

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  • I don't have any BLE modules yet. I've driven regular relays from pins on a pi successfully.

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  • Since my rpi is headless it doesn't automatically detect an HDMI display and so it starts with a small desktop display which x11vnc sees. I thought that addinghdmi_force_hotplug=1hdmi_drive=2to /boot/config.txt would force an hdmi mode on reboot. However it didn't work. x11vnc started up with the same small display. Any ideas?(This is a different problem and solution from using a vnc server such as tightvnc which creates a new virtual framebuffer, where you can force the screen size using the -geometry option.)

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  • Doesn't this just do a terminal session to a machine at bartlweb.net which then ssh's out to your target? So in principle, that machine could log all your plaintext traffic, passwords etc. You're placing a lot of faith in a complete stranger.

    It looks like the ngrok service is running a reverse tunnel for you, but since it is a service that isn't under your control, you're basically trusting them that they won't sniff or MITM your traffic. A better solution is to do the same thing explicitly yourself, by having a machine of your own outside your firewall and reverse-tunnel to it yourself from the machine you need to access which is inside a firewall somewhere. Setting up the reverse tunnel is a 1-liner, something like this, issued on the firewalled machine during startup:export AUTOSSH_GATETIME=0autossh -f -N -p allowed_port -R 10001:localhost:22 myusername@mypublichost -oLogLevel=error -oUserKnownHostsFile=/dev/null -oStrictHostKeyChecking=no('allowed_port' is any port that your host can use to listen for ssh connections o…

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    It looks like the ngrok service is running a reverse tunnel for you, but since it is a service that isn't under your control, you're basically trusting them that they won't sniff or MITM your traffic. A better solution is to do the same thing explicitly yourself, by having a machine of your own outside your firewall and reverse-tunnel to it yourself from the machine you need to access which is inside a firewall somewhere. Setting up the reverse tunnel is a 1-liner, something like this, issued on the firewalled machine during startup:export AUTOSSH_GATETIME=0autossh -f -N -p allowed_port -R 10001:localhost:22 myusername@mypublichost -oLogLevel=error -oUserKnownHostsFile=/dev/null -oStrictHostKeyChecking=no('allowed_port' is any port that your host can use to listen for ssh connections on; and you can use any number you prefer instead of 10001)then when you want to connect to the firewalled machine, from your relay host just do: ssh -p 10001 myusername@localhost

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  • At the end of step 5, on starting the emulator, I getKernel panic - not syncing: VFS: Unable to mount root fs on unknown-block(0,0)CPU: 0 PID: 1 Comm: swapper Not tainted 4.4.34+ #3Hardware name: ARM-Versatile PBfollowed by a backtrace.The only difference from your instructions which I otherwise followed to the letter was that I installed the latest jessie lite ( 2017-03-02-raspbian-jessie-lite.img) rather than the full pixel desktop.

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  • No, grog is watered down rum that was issued to sailors - watered down so that it would not keep; that way they had to drink it when it was issued by the purser, so they wouldn't stockpile it and get really drunk at some other time, eg during a battle when they needed to have a clear head. The author probably means "a grog mug".

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  • Has anyone managed to talk to those new BLE relay modules available recently? The vendors only supply an android or apple app - no protocol info to drive from arduino or raspberry pi. (This style: http://www.icstation.com/2bit-relay-module-bluetooth-precise-android-apple-smart-home-switch-p-8463.html - there is another style ( http://www.tinyosshop.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=369 ) that uses *-bee modules and has a published serial protocol but those modules are much more expensive)

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    • Easiest RGB LED Strip With Raspberry Pi!
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  • I hear that Broadcom pin numbers 12/13/18/19 are capable of hardware PWM support so may be a better choice than the ones above. OTOH I had previously understood that only pin 18 was supported by hardware PWM so I don't know if this applies to all models.

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  • Why use an approximation when an accurate calculation is available?http://stjarnhimlen.se/comp/sunriset.cThis may be helpful in getting an approximate lat/lon for use with the above: curl -s "https://freegeoip.net/csv/`curl -s v4.ident.me`"|tr ',' '\n'|tail -3|head -2|tr '\n' ' '

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  • A PIR sensor would be a lot cheaper and more effective than a sense hat.

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  • perhaps a naive question, but... these LED strips have +12V and RGB signal pins. They don't have a GND. How can there be a circuit? There's nowhere for the electrons to go! Also I would like to try this myself but have a different style of amp (looks like this: https://www.flexfireleds.com/rgb-signal-amplifier/ ) - putting a meter on it shows that it does *not* feed back 12V to the input side. Will that affect how to hook it up?

    to answer my own question - this amplifier does *not* connect the input +V to 12v so it is safe to drive the amp directly from the +5V and GPIO pins (4,5,6) of the Raspberry Pi! I'll be posting an instructable shortly after I've found the answer to a driver issue. ( https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=176740&p=1126989 )

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      • RPI interchangeable lens camera from old SLR camera lens
  • gtoal commented on gtoal's instructable Retro Pi Cam

    Funny story about that... I tried to unscrew a picam lens to do close-focus for another project, but it was one of the chinese clone picams and turns out the lens doesn't unscrew - after a huge amount of forcing I actually broke the lens off by accident. Fortunately I kept the broken camera, which means I already have one that I can try with your suggestion! (An excellent example of why never to throw damaged parts away if you don't have to)

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  • I disagree about needing a 9V battery to drive the relays - I drive 10 relays (an 8-relay board and a 2-relay board) from the GPIO pins of a Raspberry Pi. Initially I did think I was having problems with power but it turned out I had been sent a relay board with a faulty relay on it. After swapping boards it has worked every time - https://www.instructables.com/Control-Any-Remote-From-a-Raspberry-Pi-and-Amazon-/

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  • could you execute these commands please, so I can work out what the problem might be:cd /usr/local/src/echo/echo-masterfgrep act\( *

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  • just FYI the same model crimping tool a little cheaper at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Wovier-Compression-Ratcheting-0-1-1-0mm2-Wire-electrode/dp/B01CE4FAMW/

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  • That's great! I'm looking forward to the day when Pi Zeros or equivalent are something you keep several of in a drawer for use in projects like this and are not premium items that are so hard to get hold of! (Really, having to get a single unit airmailed from the UK is just ridiculous). Using the Zero here has really made your version of this project much neater. Thanks for posting.

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  • I did something very similar except with a Raspberry Pi... https://www.instructables.com/Control-Any-Remote-From-a-Raspberry-Pi-and-Amazon-/

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  • Agreed, most of the IR is filtered out - you'll be able to see an IR LED directly (eg a remote control) and maybe some things that are within a couple of feet of your IR light source but the sort of thing you see with a night vision security camera where people are illuminated maybe 30 ft away is unlikely with most cell phone cameras, even though that illuminator you're using reaches distances like that. Unfortunately the filters can be extremely hard to remove without damaging your equipment - you might consider experimenting with a Pi Zero and a Pi NoIR camera...

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  • Do you know if anyone has tried PCB etching with Armour Etch? (The stuff that crafters use to etch glass) I googled for it and didn't find any, but maybe someone more switched in to the DIY PCB scene might have seen something on a BBS somewhere?

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  • Can you use power while charging? Ie use the solar panel to charge an outdoor project while the project is powered up 24x7?

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  • Depends where you want to put the effort in. *Building* what you suggest is trivial, I could do it in 10 minutes and in fact I do have the hardware. (transmitters and receivers for both frequencies, plus an SDR for debugging). However programming a system like that is quite another matter. I got the software for my system up in an afternoon. If I had to reverse engineer the remote control signals and duplicate them, I would imagine that would take considerably longer.In point of fact, I recently bought a "Hook" system which is a professional implementation that does what you suggest. Originally I built this the relay way because it was a lot easier than learning how to generate the correct signals for the wireless; now I prefer that it uses the original remote, because it tu…

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    Depends where you want to put the effort in. *Building* what you suggest is trivial, I could do it in 10 minutes and in fact I do have the hardware. (transmitters and receivers for both frequencies, plus an SDR for debugging). However programming a system like that is quite another matter. I got the software for my system up in an afternoon. If I had to reverse engineer the remote control signals and duplicate them, I would imagine that would take considerably longer.In point of fact, I recently bought a "Hook" system which is a professional implementation that does what you suggest. Originally I built this the relay way because it was a lot easier than learning how to generate the correct signals for the wireless; now I prefer that it uses the original remote, because it turns out that even the professionally implemented Hook is far less reliable than the original remote - there appears to be a problem duplicating the control signals accurately. When I turn on half a dozen lights with the Hook, it's very seldom that all of them turn on, whereas I've never had a failure with my own implementation.

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  • Followup on the Hook after a couple of weeks of using it: Pro: you can control a _lot_ more devices with it; Con: it is nowhere near as reliable as the original remote at turning the devices off and on. The number of failed attempts is so high that I've just about given up on it and plan to revert to using my own design soon, possibly with mrlewis93's mod of using optocouplers and a Pi Zero to get the size down.

    I appreciate you letting me know - it makes the effort writing the project up worthwhile when someone actually builds your project! Any chance you could upload a photo of yours (with the "I made one" option) - I didn't know optocouplers were smaller - had assumed they were the same package as relays. I'ld like to see your compact version. I found an old 1960's mechanical switch controller (looks like an alarm clock) that I've gutted and am working on squeezing mine into!

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  • gtoal's instructable Party Pooper!'s weekly stats:
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  • I was hoping that it implied the information was out there, but you're probably right - it'll be proprietary :-( I wonder if they have access to the info from the manufacturers or if they reverse engineered a bunch of remotes like you did?

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  • This may be new since you wrote your article: http://removeandreplace.com/2016/06/17/universal-air-conditioner-remote-control-codes/

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  • I bet you're not going to approve of this, but I just love granola when it's served in a mixture that's 2/3rds plain lowfat yoghurt and 1/3rd sugar-free Cool Whip :-) Tasty!

    Well yes, it's my supper rather than breakfast!

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  • I would recommend projecting the image on to the cake for the painting step.

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  • gtoal commented on schouw's instructable Norwegian Brown Cheese

    Wow - I had no idea that there was no sugar added to Gjetost - I love this kind of cheese but my wife won't let me buy it because it's so sweet (she does a good job of keeping my diabetes in check!) - but we'd always assumed the cheese was made with added sugar. Never realised it was just lactose from boiled-down milk. (Which I think is not so dangerous to diabetics, at least that's the excuse I use when I buy Indian sweets like Kaju Katli which don't have sucrose either :-) )

    PS At least in South Texas, this is sold in the local supermarkets such as HEB.This brand specifically: https://www.amazon.com/Ski-Queen-Gjetost-2-pack/dp/B00E8HZDCQ/ (cheaper in the stores than that Amazon seller)

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  • I have a vague recollection of making something that was just like the caramel in a mars bar, and although I forget how exactly I did it, I think it may have been as simple as a can of sweetened condensed milk in a microwave. (Not in the actual can of course!) Have you experimented with microwaving it instead of boiling it at all?

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  • My wife has a "never fail" fudge recipe that is based on jars of Marshmallow. I may record her making it for Christmas so we can see which really is the easiest ever :-)

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  • maybe make a bed of peltier chips for surface cooling without a breeze?

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      • Pi Zero Talking Radio
      • The Raspberry Pi Batinator
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