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  • ilpug commented on Exscaly's instructable Upcycled Bottle Hang Drum
    Upcycled Bottle Hang Drum

    This is fantastic! I've always had this idea kicking around in my head and it's cool to see that someone built it!

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  • ilpug commented on chazwilliams16's instructable Smart Mouse Trap

    This is a good electronics proof of concept but I feel that its too complicated. I would adapt the classic mason jar live trap design and add a pressure or motion sensor, and run a wire from the sensor to an LED in an easily visible location. This simplifies the trap, leaves the actual catching to a tried and true method, and allows a good balance of remote sensing and simplicity (also removing the insecure IOT interface). Also would add that the mouse is going right through any wires accessible inside or near that cage.

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  • I think I can describe what is happening here. You are heating the sealant glue past it's glass transition temperature and allowing it to move. This glue is applied to drink cans on the inside after they are formed, meaning that the glue holds to the shape of the formed can, so when you are trying to flatten it out into a sheet, the glue still wants to hold the can in the round shape. The heating allows the glue to become more plastic, therefore allowing the aluminium to be more easily formed. The level of heat produced by a clothes iron is much less than the annealing temperature (~730 F, 387 C) of alloy 3104-H19, the aluminium commonly used in drink cans. Therefore, you can't be actually affecting the crystal structure of the metal. To make your metal very flexible and less likely to te…

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    I think I can describe what is happening here. You are heating the sealant glue past it's glass transition temperature and allowing it to move. This glue is applied to drink cans on the inside after they are formed, meaning that the glue holds to the shape of the formed can, so when you are trying to flatten it out into a sheet, the glue still wants to hold the can in the round shape. The heating allows the glue to become more plastic, therefore allowing the aluminium to be more easily formed. The level of heat produced by a clothes iron is much less than the annealing temperature (~730 F, 387 C) of alloy 3104-H19, the aluminium commonly used in drink cans. Therefore, you can't be actually affecting the crystal structure of the metal. To make your metal very flexible and less likely to tear when bending, I would recommend giving it a quick heat with a blowtorch and letting it cool in air. Drink cans are made by a forming process, which bends and shapes the metal into a can shape at room temperature. This shaping introduces stresses into the metal and alters the internal metal structure in a process called "work hardening" which makes your metal less flexible and more brittle. Annealing as described above will make your metal much easier to work.

    Ah okay, I was thinking back to an old how its made I saw where the liner was applied via what looked like an aerosol spray, so I guess I assumed it was a glue. Thanks for the clarification!

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  • This is a good skill to have, although I would encourage any farmers considering using large-scale vaccinations to be aware of the bigger picture impacts of vaccination in cattle, and how it breeds resistant diseases.

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  • Amazing! This is exactly the kind of thing that I was always trying to make when I was a kid but never got good enough to do so

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  • ilpug commented on AaronN63's instructable Double Bacon Cheeseburgers

    Mac's and beetroot on burgers... you must be a Kiwi. Looking delicious!

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  • Excellent! looks like the kind of thing that Braille Skateboarding on youtube would skate

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  • You should experiment to see if vaporized limonene works, that way you could just put the PS into a chamber with the limonene vapor and it would turn into goo, with very little excess

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  • I'm pretty limited on chemistry myself but I think that the solvent bonds more readily to the benzine groups of the polymer than the polymers bond to each other. The goal is to remove the solvent completely without damaging the polymer length and therefore reducing the strength of the material. Therefore, the less the plastic is brought to glass transition the stronger your reclaimed resin will be. It would be interesting to see what gas the solvent bonds more readily with and then cure the sheets in an environment with a high concentration of that gas. Also would be interesting to see how little limonene is needed to degrade the PS, so you have less excess limonene to remove from the resin. A final thought would be to attempt to mix in some kind of composite Into the goop while it's stil…

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    I'm pretty limited on chemistry myself but I think that the solvent bonds more readily to the benzine groups of the polymer than the polymers bond to each other. The goal is to remove the solvent completely without damaging the polymer length and therefore reducing the strength of the material. Therefore, the less the plastic is brought to glass transition the stronger your reclaimed resin will be. It would be interesting to see what gas the solvent bonds more readily with and then cure the sheets in an environment with a high concentration of that gas. Also would be interesting to see how little limonene is needed to degrade the PS, so you have less excess limonene to remove from the resin. A final thought would be to attempt to mix in some kind of composite Into the goop while it's still liquid and allow it to harden. Maybe chopped glass fiber or shredded natural fiber from plants or recycled cloth.

    This has a lot of potential. Possibly send some samples to materials testing to compare it to virgin PS? Also could you mold it in a vacuum?

    Another thought, possibly put it though a roller to make a thin sheet, to cure faster and use for thermoforming

    If you start with already fairly thin pieces it would be easy to roll, like pour the liquid dissolved PS out into a flat cookie sheet so it's like a quarter of an inch thick, then cure it for a while so it's rubbery and you'll be able to see if there's any still liquid voids in the material that way. Once it's rubbery you can roll it out really thin into sheets which will provide more surface area for the solvent to leave the material, especially if you cure the sheets in a warm environment for a while. Do you have any chemical equations for this process?

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  • ilpug commented on SteveMann's instructable Vodka for Safer Driving

    Man, that Burnetts stuff is garbage, finally a use for it!

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  • https://www.instructables.com/Crossman-C11-CO2-...I sued PVC in an angled fore grip in an old Airsoft mod I made. For your applications would have probably used epoxy coated wood, but this came out looking pretty good. Is that foregrip of your design or based on an existing one? Never seen anything quite like it.

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  • It appears that he meant that the TPU doesn't provide any structural strength. The PLA provides the strength while the TPU acts as a shock absorber and wear-resistant tire.

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  • These are awesome! I would highly recommend that you make a few different versions of these and send them to the channel Braille Skateboarding on YouTube for their You Make It We Skate It series, would be great exposure for your project!

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  • ilpug commented on ArsenyR's forum topic Advanced Helmet

    Get a motor cycle helmet. Put in the working bits from those fancy Snowboard HUD goggles. Add mics on the outside and speakers on the inside. Adapt a small fan to pull air into the body of the helmet through a respirator filter, also add a rubber gorget/neck seal to the system to make the system more air tight.Sync the electronics to a phone with a good voice control. Potentially you could hack some kind of voice assistant like Google home or Alexa. All the hardware for this exists already, however your largest challenges for this are going to be as follows, listed most serious to least serious:-systems integration (getting everything on here to work simultaneously through one system)-wireless autonomy (will the system work without internet)-Power (how many batteries do you want to carry?…

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    Get a motor cycle helmet. Put in the working bits from those fancy Snowboard HUD goggles. Add mics on the outside and speakers on the inside. Adapt a small fan to pull air into the body of the helmet through a respirator filter, also add a rubber gorget/neck seal to the system to make the system more air tight.Sync the electronics to a phone with a good voice control. Potentially you could hack some kind of voice assistant like Google home or Alexa. All the hardware for this exists already, however your largest challenges for this are going to be as follows, listed most serious to least serious:-systems integration (getting everything on here to work simultaneously through one system)-wireless autonomy (will the system work without internet)-Power (how many batteries do you want to carry? How long should the various systems be designed to work?)-durability of systems (it's great to feel like master chief until you whack your head on something and all your electronics stop working)-cooling/defogging

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  • I would look into buying round hardwood dowels and cutting them into matching disks on a chop saw. Then lightly sand them, make a brand and heat brand them with numbers/ designs, and then stain or wood dye them.

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  • I would get a few cheap hair dryers, toss out the heating elements, and steal their fan motors. They are very powerful. Mount them in a piece of plastic pipe with a bit of ducting on both sides to direct the flow of "inhaled" smoke. Look at places like Goodwill or Salvation army for older hairdryers, or get sheap ones on amazon.

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  • ilpug commented on keebie81's forum topic Two different you pages

    I've noticed this, over the years Instructables has gone through a few layout changes and they always seem to leave loose ends like this. They should definitely fix this.

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  • You buy stuff from Sammydress? i've heard a lot of terrible things about that company.Also, this is really cool! I've always wanted to make my own watch, but machine my own custom case and make the hands.

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  • ilpug followed GoWolves11
      • Keeping Madagascar Hissing Cockroaches in Your Home
  • Send this to Braille Skateboarding on youtube for their Skate Everything series! I would love to see how it performs.

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  • This is actually pretty neat, when people push the limits of these fads it really exposes creativity.

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  • ilpug commented on Kiteman's instructable Heatsink Candlestick

    This is a super neat idea!This one make a pretty candle holder, but a future project if you ever find any other sinks would be to put LEDs down inside so they shine out between the vanes and cast crazy patterns everywhere.

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  • Hmm okay. The more I think about it the more I like Caitlinsdad's idea of some kind of dissolvable tab. They are cheap and you can make a little holder that uses the tab as a sort of key to hold the thing in place.Also, you could make something that operates a bit like the float valve in a toilet: have a little cylinder on the bouy with a tiny hole in the bottom that lets water in at a slow rate. As the cylinder slowly fills, a little float rises with the water level, eventually reaching a certain height and triggering some kind of little release catch. I'm envisioning maybe a length of PVC with a ping pong ball in it, which triggers a mousetrap-like system when it gets to the right spot. This seems entirely reusable and easy to tune to get the right time-to-release.

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  • What temperature is the water going to be? And does the mechanism need to be re-attachable or is it a one-shot disposable kind of thing?

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  • Well, you can always use condoms as a source of elastic...

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  • ilpug commented on M3G's forum topic Thank You, Instructables

    Here's to another 5!

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  • Are you an alchemist?

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  • You'll probably end up winning twice.

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  • A manufacturing process contest maybe? Where it's not just about making something cool, it's about illustrating how the process and product have been designed to be easier to build in large numbers. There's tons of people on Instructables who make stuff in large amounts for sales on places like ETSY, I assume some would be willing to share their process and setup for cranking out a lot of little stuff. Most Instructables stuff is one-off or prototypical, an iterated, production-oriented product would be a neat focus.

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  • I would start from scratch with steel wire, or buy pre-wound springs and modify those. Needles are very hard to work with, and they are usually coated.

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  • Carbon fiber tube? you can get it cut into 2 foot sections and then use some aluminum rod to make a plug connection at the ends of the pieces.

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  • See if you can find a way to make a DIY one of these cool Lumio lights

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  • ilpug commented on ixdune's instructable Laser Based Bug-blaster

    Ah okay that makes a lot of sense. Could you put the whole thing into a Nerf gun? Increases the ergonomics and the cool factor. The inside of those things is mostly empty space and they are totally screw together. You can get them for dirt cheap at thrift stores usually.

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  • ilpug commented on ROBO HUB's instructable DIY Hot Glue Fidget Spinner

    Hi! This is a cool idea! Did you use any kind of lubricant to keep the hot glue from sticking to the clay? Also, is your mold reusable?

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  • ilpug commented on ixdune's instructable Laser Based Bug-blaster

    Why did you mount the laser module way out on the plexi tube? Was that for more reach to get to hard to reach bugs? Or could it be mounted back closer to the body for a more compact blaster?Possibly put a cheap thermometer on there, with the probe on the heat sink, to show how hot it's getting? Not entirely needed, but still a cool feature. Could a timing circuit be added to just pulse the laser for one second? Potentially with a multi-position switch, with burst length ranging from "warning shot" to "extra kwispy"? Neat build! Thanks for sharing!

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  • ilpug commented on push_reset's instructable Slouch Alert

    This is very neat and I feel like it helps with a rampant problem in our society. However, I'm curious if a simpler solution might work?I notice that you have set 400 as the threshold value, meaning anything above it triggers a reminder and anything below it does not. By my understanding this means that there is no variation in the vibration intensity, it's either on or off. Because of this binary function, could a simple pressure switch be used instead? This means that the device could be made much simpler as a "dumb" wearable without any micro controllers. I'm envisioning a low-profile body, using a phone vibrator motor, some kind of small off the shelf momentary switch or possibly a made-from scratch version, and a small rechargeable battery and circuit. There needs to be som…

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    This is very neat and I feel like it helps with a rampant problem in our society. However, I'm curious if a simpler solution might work?I notice that you have set 400 as the threshold value, meaning anything above it triggers a reminder and anything below it does not. By my understanding this means that there is no variation in the vibration intensity, it's either on or off. Because of this binary function, could a simple pressure switch be used instead? This means that the device could be made much simpler as a "dumb" wearable without any micro controllers. I'm envisioning a low-profile body, using a phone vibrator motor, some kind of small off the shelf momentary switch or possibly a made-from scratch version, and a small rechargeable battery and circuit. There needs to be some kind of pull-strap that can turn the switch on and off when you slouch/sit up. This could be a simple piece of nylon strap or cord, adjustable in length by something like a small turnbuckle or the mechanism on a reusable zip tie. This would achieve the same thing, and could be easily manually calibrated.I'm curious about the effectiveness of the device when mounted to a flexible stretchable surface like a shirt. Does it work better if the tail of the shirt is tucked in? That seems to be more likely to preserve the fabric tension when the wearer slouches. I'm curious how hard it would be to mount this directly to the skin along the spine. The main body could sit farther up towards the base of the neck while the end of the pull strap could sit farther down in the mid back, maybe around T9. Maybe bandaids would work? Or just medical tape. Do you have any feedback on my idea?Thanks for providing inspiration!

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  • Depending on how good you are with painting you can just paint a naegative with nail polish onto the surface of your part to be etched.

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  • This is awesome! The only cool fidget spinner thing I've seen really. Potentially build it into a bracelet style thing so you can have the other hand free and only bring the spinner to your wrist when you need a speed recharge. Also, would a metal spinner work with this as well?

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  • Wow, it's like a logical version of Juicero!Well done!

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      • A Girl's Room
      • Hero Car
      • A Boy's Room
  • Nice project! The simplicity is what makes this so great.

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  • ilpug commented on mikeasaurus's instructable Baroque You

    Excellent!*his majesty may wish to note that in line one of his most esteemed article, the term "serf" is spelled "surf" which conjures mental images much more tubular than wretched.

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  • This is pretty neat! I feel like you could make more substantial teeth but using the scissors to cut them into the card rather than the hole punch, but still, great idea.

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  • This looks like a fairly simple armor to make. Most of it is largely plate-based with few curves, so I would do most of it with EVA foam, which can be bought in sheets online in varying thickness, or at home centers like home depot as snap together floor tiles. I recommend making loose paper templates for the armor, then use those to guide in cutting the foam out correctly. Bevel the edges where the pieces attache together to make good connections. A heat gun like is used to strip paint allows you to bend the foam fairly effectively. Hot glue or rubber cement makes a good adhesive for this material. To finish it, sand any joints smooth with high grit sand paper and an electric sander, then coat in several coats of a rubberized sealant like plasti-dip. Fine details can be burned into the m…

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    This looks like a fairly simple armor to make. Most of it is largely plate-based with few curves, so I would do most of it with EVA foam, which can be bought in sheets online in varying thickness, or at home centers like home depot as snap together floor tiles. I recommend making loose paper templates for the armor, then use those to guide in cutting the foam out correctly. Bevel the edges where the pieces attache together to make good connections. A heat gun like is used to strip paint allows you to bend the foam fairly effectively. Hot glue or rubber cement makes a good adhesive for this material. To finish it, sand any joints smooth with high grit sand paper and an electric sander, then coat in several coats of a rubberized sealant like plasti-dip. Fine details can be burned into the material with a soldering iron. To paint that armor I would say a gloss grey paint with matte black dry brushing and silver accents. To back the armor and hold it together into a cohesive suit I recommend heavy cloth behind the foam, attached with hot glue. Buy nylon strap and use it to make the mounting straps, for something lightweight like this you can use heavy wire to make your own buckles. The most complicated piece will be the curve of the bust on the chestplate I would use thinner foam to make that part, then once you form it to the shape you need with the heat gun you can reinforce it from the back side to hold it's shape. You may need to make a body cast from tape and pack it with paper or foam in order to get a solid surface to mold a good shape on. Alternatively, you can try to use a material called WonderFlex to form the chestplate. As far as the scythe goes I would cut out the blade shape from thin wood, reinforce it with some metal strips, put a sheet of foam on both sides, then finish as described above. Use a piece of PVC pipe for the handle. Cool armor on this character actually, good choice to learn how to do costume armor. I feel sorry for you having to deal with the wig for this cosplay though, that looks like its going to be a pain.

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  • Upon thinking about this a little more, I realize that a totally mechanical solution would be foolish. My original concern was that you mention use of a solenoid. Solenoids lose strength if they are cycled repetitively in a short time period. If your application requires fast repetitive cycling in a short time period, then I would recommend a servo motor operating either a gate valve or a pinch valve. Syrup is viscous and can cause mechanical valve components to stick together, something that should be considered in your design.Can I hazard a guess that the application is feeding measured amounts of flavored syrups for making flavored drinks? Instead of relying on gravity feed, you could use a pumping system like the one used in this linked Instructable, but have a timer circuit that shut…

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    Upon thinking about this a little more, I realize that a totally mechanical solution would be foolish. My original concern was that you mention use of a solenoid. Solenoids lose strength if they are cycled repetitively in a short time period. If your application requires fast repetitive cycling in a short time period, then I would recommend a servo motor operating either a gate valve or a pinch valve. Syrup is viscous and can cause mechanical valve components to stick together, something that should be considered in your design.Can I hazard a guess that the application is feeding measured amounts of flavored syrups for making flavored drinks? Instead of relying on gravity feed, you could use a pumping system like the one used in this linked Instructable, but have a timer circuit that shuts off the button after a few seconds. If your liquid isn't already pressurized I think this would work well. https://www.instructables.com/Coca-Cola-Soda-Fo...

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  • ilpug commented on woodshopcowboy's instructable DIY Folding Board

    Buy a cardboard box at a moving store or raid a dumpster for a clean one. Cut it to shape and duct tape it. Folds flat, much lighter weight than wood, and takes 5 minutes. I've used one of these for years in college.

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  • I think that at a high cycle rate the kind of actuators you would be using might wear out. Possibly a mechanical solution?

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  • ilpug commented on BIhaagS's instructable DIY RACING WHEEL FOR PC

    This is the epitome of rigged gadgets. I love it!

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  • ilpug commented on iccycold3000's instructable 3D Printed Lathe

    Please add the final images! I can't wait to see this done!

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  • ilpug commented on CsiGiRe's instructable Awesome Wood Jewelry

    This would look really cool with a silver paint dry brush job, or a light coat of rub-n-buff

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  • ilpug commented on CsiGiRe's instructable Awesome Wood Jewelry

    This reminds me of the Polynesian sea chart maps made from sticks and shells. Neat idea!

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  • Don't burn yourself!

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  • Building a cellphone from scratch is potentially very expensive, even assuming the most complicated components such as the processors, circuitry, camera, screen, antennas, and sensors were all made by an outside company to your specifications. Even assembling a modern cellphone prototype in a way to ensure that it passes inspections involves very sophisticated machinery like pick and place machines, board testers, etc. Add on to that the cost of labor and engineering costs and you're looking at an astronomical number assuming you don't already have the machinery. Refer to company documentation for past projects, assuming any exists. Frankly, if your boss is asking you to get a materials cost estimate on a phone in two weeks and gave you nothing more than a few drawings to work from then e…

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    Building a cellphone from scratch is potentially very expensive, even assuming the most complicated components such as the processors, circuitry, camera, screen, antennas, and sensors were all made by an outside company to your specifications. Even assembling a modern cellphone prototype in a way to ensure that it passes inspections involves very sophisticated machinery like pick and place machines, board testers, etc. Add on to that the cost of labor and engineering costs and you're looking at an astronomical number assuming you don't already have the machinery. Refer to company documentation for past projects, assuming any exists. Frankly, if your boss is asking you to get a materials cost estimate on a phone in two weeks and gave you nothing more than a few drawings to work from then either you have an incredible, untested reputation for achieving the impossible, or your boss is entirely incompetent. Or some other things. For a plastic lamp. I would 3D print the prototypes if possible. You can pay a service to do it for you if you don't have the equipment in house. They charge by volume, look into your CAD files and you may be able to find a volume for your parts. Then, look up the fasteners and electrical components on sites like MSC or McMaster Carr. Find the most similar components to the ones specified in the drawings and use those costs. Include Shipping!

    Without any actual specifics of the processes and materials need to make your prototype it's practically impossible to give you a number. A "DIY mechanical/electrical engineering project" could be as simple as a little blinky light made with Harbor Freight components to a fully autonomous drone with freakin' lasers on it. I understand that you may not want to share specifics in order to protect IP, but some kind of data is needed.

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  • I use SolidWorks and Fusion 360. I used 123d a bit as well. Solidworks is great but It has kind of a "microsoft" feel (packed full of obscure features, clunky interface, has to be customized to work comfortably), while Fusion has a bit of an "apple" feel (smoother, less features, more worthless cloud integration).

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  • This is an excellent build! I can't really imagine a more badass vise

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  • ilpug followed DIY-DIMT
      • How to Make a Powerful Match Cannon
      • How to Make Paintball Gun
      • DIY Miniature Acoustic Guitar Made With Popsicle Sticks!
  • ilpug commented on DIY-DIMT's instructable How to Make Paintball Gun

    This is a very neat little build! I spent a lot of time as a young kid making things like this. Nicely done!

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  • ilpug commented on randofo's instructable Secret Drawer Lock

    This is a great idea. I have made hidden magnetic locks before, but not electronic. Several metal pins in vertical holes that get pulled into place by gravity when the magnet is removed work great, provided the piece of furniture being locked is either wall mounted or too big to easily flip over and disengage the lock. Your design works in any orientation though, so is superior for smaller projects.

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  • ilpug commented on randofo's instructable Easy Jacob's Ladder

    Could graphite rods be used to fight heat buildup? I feel like those would have less chance of melting than the aluminum.

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  • ilpug commented on ssterman's instructable Hardwood CNC Scrabble Board

    If you have access to a laser cutter you can make the board in layers and laminate them together.

    I want to do this but have no access to a laser cutter. This means I can make the board but not the tiles, and stock scrabble tiles will not fit into a board with radiused pocket corners. I think I will cut the board as you did, and then fillet the edges of all the tiles on a saw to get them to fit into the holes.

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  • it's like a little award thing that goes on your profile. I'm not sure they still use them on this site but a a few years ago they were all the rage.

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  • I haven't actualy done this project but I've heat formed a lot of PVC and I know this would work.

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  • ilpug's entry The BeerBQ: a Keg Barbecue is a winner in the Metal Contest 2016 contest
  • ilpug commented on ilpug's instructable The BeerBQ: a Keg Barbecue

    Thanks! Yeah, kegs aren't cheap, and repairing them is super obnoxious.

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  • ilpug's entry The BeerBQ: a Keg Barbecue is a finalist in the Metal Contest 2016 contest
  • ilpug commented on ilpug's instructable The BeerBQ: a Keg Barbecue

    Not very much unfortunately, I only had one large grinder and it wasn't very good at getting back in the hard to reach corners.

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  • Yeah, there were some glitches, definitely going to cut another one in the next few months and iron it all out

    What diameter of tool did you use? Do you have a higher resolution picture of the surface finish? I was only able to run 10000 on our machine unfortunately. My highest feed rate was in the heavy roughing at 70 Inches Per Minute. I was using a large diameter tool that could handle the stress.

    Did you use any clamps?

    Ah, okay that's a good method. For my project i needed more secure clamping due to the high cutting forces involved.

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  • So this is a dead topic, but the OP is actually the guy who started Instructables, I found this a bit entertaining

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  • ilpug commented on blkhawk's forum topic Precious Plastic

    Distributive recycling like this is hard to catch on in the US because of where we send our plastics. It's cheaper to put a ton of plastic regrind on a ship in Oakland and ship it to Shenzen than it is to send it by truck from Oakland to Los Angeles.

    It's a supply and demand thing, and there's a ridiculous amount of supply of good recycled plastic with still viable polymer lengths, and practically no demand for it in the consumer areas. It's going to take a good salesman to champion this. Anybody want to call Elon Musk and tell him to get on it?

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  • Invert them, cover the ends to make a sort of basin, then install it as a fancy designer sink in your house. Coat them with mylar and use them as thermal reflectors. Somewhere on here on Ible's some guy made some glass speakers, so make some of those with them. Make them vertical doors for a pair of corner cabinets. Hang them from the ceiling combined with lights to make a modern classy light fixture. Plug the ends and make a glass planter box so you can see the roots grow. If you do chemistry they look like they would make a great experimental containment surface. Mail them to me and I'll make something with them?

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  • Go to a thrift shop and find the oldest radio you can, take it apart and try and recreate it.

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