jsawyer

Oh, join a local Maker Space/Maker Place... they will give you access to all kinds of cool equipment for a monthly fee... AND provide you with expertise!

k-40 laser is a good starter and $400 on Amazon is hard to beat. It is definitely not for the technologically impaired, and is not consumer-ready... But, if you can handle the tech, do some mirror adjustments, it works quite well.. There are also open-source software and hardware upgrades available. Great 'ible!

good point, but I figured I could tie them down to hooks I have in the stake pockets...

Thanks. I didn't build a front one since I don't mind my kayak on the roof... (Paint's fading anyway) I'll drop a foam block on the roof, and tie it down to hooks in the front stake pocket. Thanks again for the great idea! This thing is rock solid!

I don't disagree, but people should use caution when selecting a wire. Iron or steel wire is perfect, but should be cleaned with sandpaper to ensure there's no clear paint or zinc coating...

Most paperclips are steel with a zinc coating to inhibit rust, or possibly a coating of paint... If you clean them with sandpaper, it should be fine. Iron/steel wire is not toxic...

Awesome! Did you test how well the silicone adheres to the Tyvek?

I still have one the family bought in the 70's! They still sell them... on Amazon, of course...As far as cutting a square bottle: As long as the score line goes all the way around, you can cut it. I use the hot water/ice water bath trick... Dunk it in the ice bath (have the score line at least an inch below the water line).. wait 20-30 seconds. Then go for the hot water. This is where it gets tricky! If the hot water is too hot, you can crack the bottle where you don't want it. If it is too cool, nothing happens. I typically heat the water until the "making noise" phase... not yet boiling, leave the pot on low-medium heat and go for it. (I make guitar slides out of wine bottles) You can also do the tap from inside part, it might work more reliably. A lot d...

I still have one the family bought in the 70's! They still sell them... on Amazon, of course...As far as cutting a square bottle: As long as the score line goes all the way around, you can cut it. I use the hot water/ice water bath trick... Dunk it in the ice bath (have the score line at least an inch below the water line).. wait 20-30 seconds. Then go for the hot water. This is where it gets tricky! If the hot water is too hot, you can crack the bottle where you don't want it. If it is too cool, nothing happens. I typically heat the water until the "making noise" phase... not yet boiling, leave the pot on low-medium heat and go for it. (I make guitar slides out of wine bottles) You can also do the tap from inside part, it might work more reliably. A lot depends on the bottle. Thicker bottles are harder to cut, but how the bottle is made may induce stress somewhere and it will just fail... Have a few bottles to work on...

the charcoal will work best if it is hardwood, but you also need to be concerned about the wood itself. Some bushes like oleander are toxic, and you should never use that wood for anything. Keep in mind that the characteristics of the wood will remain, which is why mesquite lump charcoal is so popular - it still has plenty of the oils and other compounds that impart a good flavor.I wonder about using pine or fir. They are never used as smoking woods because of the bitterness and off favors they would add to the food.

Awesome! Thanks for sharing that!

Pecan and maple are wonderful smoking woods! as you cut them into chunks, save the random chips. those can be thrown on top of your charcoal when you start cooking, and it will add wonderful flavor . . .

since most cans, even the new ones you can buy are coated, I would think that putting the empty can in the fire first, and then cleaning it out would not be a bad idea... But if the compounds are being burned off in the process, would they end up in the charcoal or gassed out with the rest of the smoke? Hard to say...

It is probably a time/concentration thing... Bleach is my friend!

Careful with bleach and stainless steel... it will pit and corrode the stainless, leaving pockets for the nasty's to take up residence...http://www.cemag.us/articles/2014/09/are-your-stainless-steel-surfaces-being-corroded-repeated-bleach-use

Brilliant! PBW is great. You can make your own from Washing Soda (which can be made by heating baking soda) and Oxy-Clean... Lots of DIY options...

Strong bleach will etch stainless, so be careful... http://www.cemag.us/articles/2014/09/are-your-stai...Once in a while won't hurt, though...