keith204

Oh, sweet. I really like how you did the mounting screws. I'll definitely adopt that design as I like it better than the hardware approach I used. Thanks for sharing.

Good point! Everyone, do this instead. ^^

Good call. The black magnets were definitely: 3/8” x 1/8” epoxy-coated N45s from AppliedMagnets.com. Shipping there is like $18 so I only order from there when I’m doing some sort of major restock. Short Version: 1) get the assortment of steel balls linked above 2) get 1/2” (or 12mm) rare earth magnetsExplained: 1) an assortment of steel balls can accommodate a variety of magnet/ball combos. A weak combo can be improved by using a larger ball. 2) note cards are sturdy enough to not really care how strong the combo is (within reason!). 3/8” works well for embedding them as I did,1/2” or 5/8” (12mm & 15mm common metric sizes) work better for surface-mounting like to the bandsaw. Easier to slide the notecard in. But you might as well keep it simple and just get 1/2” for everything.

yeah, it makes complete sense.

Thanks for the insight! Question: how can I know if it’s cured or not? I’d guess it was drying fast, because I’ve used it a number of times for filling plywood edges (not large voids, just the rough areas), and sanding within the hour. I’ve also used it to fill pores of large open pore woods like sassafras and oak, then sanded the top layer off, leaving the pores filled with the stuff. Maybe I’m not applying it thick enough to matter?

I think I’m following. So the shelves would still be notched, right? I think that would work. Maybe that would work well for people without the means of cutting the dadoes. You might want a board glued to the fronts as well to hide the rough cut or gap from the shelves.

Smoke.

Hi. I'm OK with this not being featured, but am interested in advice for future projects. I have a couple things in mind as I review it - such as having the thumbnail image showing the benefit (say, the drill press holes) rather than the product. Any advice would be appreciated.

Congratulations on the win! Awesome project, awesome execution, clear instructions, great avoidance of paragraphs, great usage of lists, great up-close pictures to show what needs to be shown.

Good news. Thanks!

I showed it working, and have used this dado design for over a year.

Agreed with onetruegod's post about the non-business end. From one pic, it looks like shank sizes are all the same and cylindrical. Others look like they're different size squares/cylinders. With the bits you have, is there any sort of rhyme/reason to the size (3/8", 1/2", 5/8" etc...? Or are they all just whatever the maker feels?

Great idea!

He’s referring to the dado sizes, which are a bit smaller than shank sizes.

Good idea! I wonder if the angle doesn't need to be 45 degrees? Maybe if the dadoes were tweaked so there was minimal play, you could get away with 20-30 degrees and avoid the shank length issue? If you come up with something, make an Instructable!

Oooh...

Thanks! Question though... why would they want to? A few people have noted this elsewhere on the internet, and I've wondered - wouldn't it be easier/cheaper for them to blow-mold a cheap plastic tray with holes?

For the guys who say they can't rationalize the KitchenAid Not-A-Disc Sander to their wives: Look at Ham-made's idea of how it can be useful for cooking...

I'll have to keep this in mind. Thanks for the tip!

Can you pass this message on to your husband? In that case, I recommend you buy a wood lathe and a 3D printer. Then you can print out my lathe attachment https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3328233 Plus, since your wife is clearly into food preparation, she would also probably love some nice wood turned bowls and trays to properly present her work.

I'm eager to hear how that goes.

Good news: I just found the "plastic gears" thing to be false. Read about it here: https://foodal.com/kitchen/kitchen-appliances/stand-mixers/kitchen-aid-artisan/"Some folks complain about “plastic” gears in the Artisan line. These machines do have one gear made up of a Kevlar fiber filled nylon material referred to as “Nylatron.”This gear has been used for years (even during the time period of Hobart manufacturing) in all of the tilt-head KitchenAid stand mixers and is actually a feature – not a cheapening of parts.This gear is designed to shear or break apart should the machine bind up and protects the motor from burning up or otherwise become damaged. They are available for all models through Amazon or other vendors and easily replaced by anyone with a little mechani…

Good news: I just found the "plastic gears" thing to be false. Read about it here: https://foodal.com/kitchen/kitchen-appliances/stand-mixers/kitchen-aid-artisan/"Some folks complain about “plastic” gears in the Artisan line. These machines do have one gear made up of a Kevlar fiber filled nylon material referred to as “Nylatron.”This gear has been used for years (even during the time period of Hobart manufacturing) in all of the tilt-head KitchenAid stand mixers and is actually a feature – not a cheapening of parts.This gear is designed to shear or break apart should the machine bind up and protects the motor from burning up or otherwise become damaged. They are available for all models through Amazon or other vendors and easily replaced by anyone with a little mechanical aptitude."

As for stripping gears, I'm fairly certain that sanding is far less harsh on the gears than stirring thick batter.

I explain why in *both* the Instructable as well as the video. Your suggestion of using a disc sander indicates you didn't read or watch. This is specifically to do things that the disc sanders cannot.

I think if you made her a spoon, you’d be safe.

Maybe they're not made like they're used to, but they are still made to handle some wildly thick mixing, which I believe is a greater force than would be exerted by a spoon pressed up against a sanding pad.

Thanks! That was actually driving me nuts. I noticed that after the deadline, and there's a no changes until contest is over rule. Fixed!

The same half-filled jar has lasted me at least 100 actuations. I do need to refill it now, but that's because I tipped it over.

Thanks! The app is Fritzing: http://fritzing.org/home/

Whoa. Looks like I'm about 6 years behind you.

Ah, very good point. Scrolling through the results, my thumbnail doesn't stand out. Is it acceptable for me to change the thumbnail on that one now? Or, leave as is since that's what I submitted?

I posted two Instructables, and did not expect either of them to get featured. Therefore, I'm thrilled that one of them did. https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Drinking-Stra... <--featuredhttps://www.instructables.com/Band-Saw-USB-LED-... If I would have guessed, it would be the other way around. I'm intrigued and am curious why the SS straw was featured, and what improvements I can make in the future for things like the USB band saw light. Brainstorming why the straw one got featured....* it's more relevant to more people* it's part of a less saturated categoryAny advice would be appreciated.

Somebody mentioned that in a forum as well, and here are my thoughts:1) Do you want 120V that close to the blade? I feel safer with only 5V that close.2) The length of the arm would make it awkward to mount3) You'd still need to figure out a way to make a retractable cord. But for saws, sanders, lathes, etc that don't need an auto-rising, auto-lowering light, that sewing machine light looks quite ideal.As for the band saw, I just can't seem to figure out (yet) where the various parts would be mounted in a way that's unobtrusive and the cord retracts.