keith204

Smoke.

Hi. I'm OK with this not being featured, but am interested in advice for future projects. I have a couple things in mind as I review it - such as having the thumbnail image showing the benefit (say, the drill press holes) rather than the product. Any advice would be appreciated.

Congratulations on the win! Awesome project, awesome execution, clear instructions, great avoidance of paragraphs, great usage of lists, great up-close pictures to show what needs to be shown.

Good news. Thanks!

I showed it working, and have used this dado design for over a year.

Great idea!

Agreed with onetruegod's post about the non-business end. From one pic, it looks like shank sizes are all the same and cylindrical. Others look like they're different size squares/cylinders. With the bits you have, is there any sort of rhyme/reason to the size (3/8", 1/2", 5/8" etc...? Or are they all just whatever the maker feels?

Oooh...

Thanks for this. On that note...I’m getting into 3D printing for the workshop, and have changed my default units in Fusion 360 to metric. And like it a lot.But how on earth do you discuss drywall over there?

Thanks! Question though... why would they want to? A few people have noted this elsewhere on the internet, and I've wondered - wouldn't it be easier/cheaper for them to blow-mold a cheap plastic tray with holes?

He’s referring to the dado sizes, which are a bit smaller than shank sizes.

For the guys who say they can't rationalize the KitchenAid Not-A-Disc Sander to their wives: Look at Ham-made's idea of how it can be useful for cooking...

I'll have to keep this in mind. Thanks for the tip!

Can you pass this message on to your husband? In that case, I recommend you buy a wood lathe and a 3D printer. Then you can print out my lathe attachment https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3328233 Plus, since your wife is clearly into food preparation, she would also probably love some nice wood turned bowls and trays to properly present her work.

I'm eager to hear how that goes.

Good news: I just found the "plastic gears" thing to be false. Read about it here: https://foodal.com/kitchen/kitchen-appliances/stand-mixers/kitchen-aid-artisan/"Some folks complain about “plastic” gears in the Artisan line. These machines do have one gear made up of a Kevlar fiber filled nylon material referred to as “Nylatron.”This gear has been used for years (even during the time period of Hobart manufacturing) in all of the tilt-head KitchenAid stand mixers and is actually a feature – not a cheapening of parts.This gear is designed to shear or break apart should the machine bind up and protects the motor from burning up or otherwise become damaged. They are available for all models through Amazon or other vendors and easily replaced by anyone with a little mecha...

Good news: I just found the "plastic gears" thing to be false. Read about it here: https://foodal.com/kitchen/kitchen-appliances/stand-mixers/kitchen-aid-artisan/"Some folks complain about “plastic” gears in the Artisan line. These machines do have one gear made up of a Kevlar fiber filled nylon material referred to as “Nylatron.”This gear has been used for years (even during the time period of Hobart manufacturing) in all of the tilt-head KitchenAid stand mixers and is actually a feature – not a cheapening of parts.This gear is designed to shear or break apart should the machine bind up and protects the motor from burning up or otherwise become damaged. They are available for all models through Amazon or other vendors and easily replaced by anyone with a little mechanical aptitude."

As for stripping gears, I'm fairly certain that sanding is far less harsh on the gears than stirring thick batter.

I explain why in *both* the Instructable as well as the video. Your suggestion of using a disc sander indicates you didn't read or watch. This is specifically to do things that the disc sanders cannot.

I think if you made her a spoon, you’d be safe.

Maybe they're not made like they're used to, but they are still made to handle some wildly thick mixing, which I believe is a greater force than would be exerted by a spoon pressed up against a sanding pad.

Thanks! That was actually driving me nuts. I noticed that after the deadline, and there's a no changes until contest is over rule. Fixed!

The same half-filled jar has lasted me at least 100 actuations. I do need to refill it now, but that's because I tipped it over.

Thanks! The app is Fritzing: http://fritzing.org/home/

Whoa. Looks like I'm about 6 years behind you.

Ah, very good point. Scrolling through the results, my thumbnail doesn't stand out. Is it acceptable for me to change the thumbnail on that one now? Or, leave as is since that's what I submitted?

I posted two Instructables, and did not expect either of them to get featured. Therefore, I'm thrilled that one of them did. https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Drinking-Stra... <--featuredhttps://www.instructables.com/id/Band-Saw-USB-LED-... If I would have guessed, it would be the other way around. I'm intrigued and am curious why the SS straw was featured, and what improvements I can make in the future for things like the USB band saw light. Brainstorming why the straw one got featured....* it's more relevant to more people* it's part of a less saturated categoryAny advice would be appreciated.

Somebody mentioned that in a forum as well, and here are my thoughts:1) Do you want 120V that close to the blade? I feel safer with only 5V that close.2) The length of the arm would make it awkward to mount3) You'd still need to figure out a way to make a retractable cord. But for saws, sanders, lathes, etc that don't need an auto-rising, auto-lowering light, that sewing machine light looks quite ideal.As for the band saw, I just can't seem to figure out (yet) where the various parts would be mounted in a way that's unobtrusive and the cord retracts.